77 xlh re wiring from scratch.... connectors!

[goirish64]

anyone out there have any clue as to where i could find the stock replacement connectors for the connections in the headlight housing? or something that will work? according to the schematic its 2 12 terminal and one 6 terminal. any kind of connectors work for anyone else?

[76 sporty]

you can get a decent from radio shack that is what i have on my bike and they work great

[hcrashster]

Do what I do, Junkyard. Cheap and.................cheap.

[bustert]

why use junk unless you are doing an antique. use weatherpacks available from auto parts or electronic parts stores. there are electronic outlets on the web like digikey and ecm and all electronics. weatherpacks are standard issue on all cars nowdays and offer sealed protection. most have a release system where you can remove and install individual wires if need be.

[goirish64]

thanks for the good info. im gonna check out radio shack tommorow. the internet hasnt been too kind to me, ive been searching. jp cycle didnt really give me much. thanks this wiring is confusing the hell out of me

[waza]

What ever you do, Don't use stake ons.
If you want original type, there are kits on ebay that have the correct motorcycle type brass connectors, male & female also with 2 & 3 one piece female, all with clear boots(+ instructions). They also come with proper wire strippers and the correct crimping pliers as used at the factory. These kits run between $60-100 but are well worth it. You can get proper shrink tubing in any length from a good electrical supply house. Radio shack only has short pieces of shrink tubing.
I don't have the links right now but if no one else adds them in, I'll post tomorrow. Do it right, you can make a better loom than the factory did if you are patient.
Good luck

[mikethebike61]

The H-D dealer should have them. They are 80cents each plus you need the presser. A Molex hand crimper (performance-pcs.com) is what you need to properly crimp them. I also solder the wire before crimpimg then hit that with a gun just to make sure.
I also ordered some from a fastener supply but we will not know if they are the correct ones until they get here. If they are they will be a GM part. Hold tight for about a week and I'll let you know.

[mikethebike61]

What ever you do, Don't use stake ons.
They also come with proper wire strippers and the correct crimping pliers as used at the factory.Good luck

The FACTORY tool is closer to $400.00, aftermarket range from $25 to $180.

[Bob F]

Welcome to the XLForum.

[stoney77]

Waza has a good remedy,but I'm not sure why he says not to use sta-cons. If you are refering to those large black block connectors that take up so much room in the shell,you can go to an electronic supply house where you can find something suitable at a reasonable cost.Everything from srink tube,connecting blocks,wire,soldering tools,ect. Or, do something I've allways wanted to do. Take each individual conductor,use small quick-connect connectors(ones that you can connect and reconnect a number of times).AS far as the other connectors go like on the flasher unit,either Radioshack has them or electronic supply.Just remember when purchaseing those conn. get the right wire size gauge.Hope this helps stoney

[goirish64]

waza if you could throw me those links thatd be great. id like to take a look see what they look like. thanks everyone for the good information and helping me out

[BuckIRyder]

Not sure what connector in the headlight shell you mean. The only connector in the headlight shell on my '72 was a 3 position female receptacle that connected to the headlight. It disintegrated years ago so I just use individual female spade connectors Agree with others, Radio shack should have what you need. Suggestion for ring terminals, use pre-insulated diamond grip. I used these and crimped with a cheapie hardware store crimper when I rewired my 72 two years ago. Has worked fine so far.

[Bob F]

http://xlforum.net/photopost/data/500/medium/Wiring3.jpg

[jharback]

Unless your trying to restore to "original" I'd go with solder and shrink tube. It'll last much better and cause fewer problems if done right.

[mikethebike61]

Unless your trying to restore to "original" I'd go with solder and shrink tube. It'll last much better and cause fewer problems if done right.

I've owned my bike since, let's see now....MARCH 10,1977. 200,000 miles. Number of troubles isolated to the electrical plugs/connectors......NONE.

I don't know what your experience with you EVO motor is, but my old iron head has been pretty damn reliable.

I do have a question though...you don't state that you own an iron head. WHY are you here instead of on the EVO forum?

Just curious.

[nikki]

Unless your trying to restore to "original" I'd go with solder and shrink tube. It'll last much better and cause fewer problems if done right.+ 100 jharback as radio shack dose not have the right size conectors and harley conectors are a pia solder and shrink wrap the best way to go . Nikki

[rivethog]

All of the AMP connectors are available from the dealer (make sure YOU have the correct P/N to give to them).
Great Plains Electronics has a set of B crimpers (p/n 1028-CT) that work perfectly and the crimp looks exactly like the factory B crimp.
The pins and sockets are available from the dealer for around $1/ea (expensive) OR from Carlton Bates for a little less than $10 per 100 (10 cents ea).
The p/n for the pin is: Carlton Bates- 74114901995, or Tyco- 60620-1
The p/n for the socket is: Carlton Bates- 74114901994, or Tyco- 60619-1

Tyco is the manufacturer of the pins and sockets but I don't think Tyco sells to the general public. Carlton Bates will.

The tool for removing the pins & sockets from the connectors is available at most auto parts stores for around $20.

[waza]

http://vintageconnections.com/

They have a few kits here. Prety good prices.

[waza]

When refering to the type of tool used at the factory, I don't think I mentioned that it would be an "original" factory tool, just the same "type".

B style crimpers are available in many places but are not available at Radio Shack.

[69moparfan]

My XL has a Fatbob tank and dash setup, I'm in the process of wiring the switch. I would like make it detachable, allowing for easy tank and dash removal.
I've been considering using the 6-pin Molex they sell at Radioshack.