http://www.nrhsperformance.com/pictures/susans1hp2005.gif

Red is on the motor, blue is on the button. Can you tell where I pushed the button? ;)

Been working real hard on this thing lately. A week ago it was spread all over the bench.

This motor is 82ci (1347cc). It's a modest shot of juice, I could get 200hp out of it if I wanted it. But the motor has to live a little bit.

Damn.... I would be happy with the numbers you got without the juice... but then, I don't have the same need for speed that some of us have...

Kind of embarrasing to post after you see these numbers!!!

Yeah, holy crap!!

My 883C with only stage I mods is somewhere right inbetween those two pulls... oh wait, is that a one in front of the HP numbers? yikes! :smoke

Well Aaron, I have only one thing to say after that................

DAMN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Good form sir Aaron.

Thanks for the comments guys.

The motor-only configuration is down a bit due to some accomodations we make for the nitrous. We've actually made 140hp on this motor configuration when we're setting it up for motor-only. But there are several little things you gotta do to make the nitrous work ... backing out timing, running different fuel (119 octane to resist detonation well but it costs 2-3% power), different plugs, different oil, etc. It adds up.

I pulled the heads back off it yesterday. Burn looked great and there's no oil, but there's more power lurking in there ...

If that is power measured at the crank, how much do you add percentage wise to a bike that is dynoed at the rear wheel to get a comparable level of HP at the motor?

In one of your other posts you seem to say torque is not a good measure? Is torque not a factor in drag racing. I would think that it is certainly a good measure for a bike that is driven on the street. I certainly don't have to spend all my time searching for the right gears. What you are talking about describes most sport bikes that I have owned. High HP low Torque. If you don't stay on the rpms the bike won't move.

No, that's rear wheel hp in the chart above, as measured on a Dynojet dyno. When I say "on the motor", that means without the nitrous. The red line is on the motor and the blue line is with a 30hp shot of nitrous, you can see I hit the button at 4500rpm.

Torque is most certainly a huge factor in all kinds of riding. But rpm is an equally important factor. By itself, without considering the rpm, the torque figure is absolutely meaningless with respect to performance. Ditto the rpm. It's only when you consider the torque and rpm together that you get something that describes performance. Torque and rpm together are called "horsepower". More here:

http://www.nrhsperformance.com/tech_power.shtml

http://www.nrhsperformance.com/pictures/susans1171hp.gif

Found something while I had it apart, made a change, got a little more.

I think it's ready to go kick some ass. So long as it doesn't break.

Aaron, you say you found something like it was nothing.
An extra 10hp on top I consider a substantial find and that extra 20 at 5000 rpm is just gonna get you there a lot quicker I imagine.
Very nice "find" indeed. Congratulations. :clap :clap :clap :clap
Just remember you still have my heads up there so if you happen to "find" and extra 10 hp just feel free to make the changes. :D :D

The extra 10hp on the bottle is largely from leaning it down a little (smaller fuel jets in the nitrous system). I was actually much more excited about finding 3hp on the motor ;)

Out there at Bonneville, we lean on the button for about 60 seconds, it's not like drag racing. It's a bit tricky to do that and not melt it down. One thing we do to make it live is to run it as fat as we can get away with. The problem though is that the bottle pressure drops over the course of a pass. So you start out on the lean side and end up fat. You've got to set it up such that at the end of the pass, it's not too fat to run.

Well, I got to looking at the first chart and thinking about the pressures and bottle temps I was running and decided I was probably too fat. It had started to break up there towards the end of the pull, on about 800psi of bottle pressure, which is about where I'll be at the end of a pass (I had started that pull at only 900psi and a not very warm bottle to simulate the later stages of a pass).

So for the second chart I took out just a little fuel, and also that pull started out with a warmer and higher pressure bottle, although it was kind of a surface warmth thing. So you see it pulled like gangbusters early in the button when the pressure was high, then fell off as the pressure quickly came down to the 900psi range, and then kind of held steady. The little blip at the end isn't fat, it's because I let out of the button slightly before I let off the throttle, just for safety.

This is kind of the nature of nitrous, it's a bottle pressure/temperature management exercise. That's why I don't like it much on street bikes, takes too much attention. But it's great on race bikes.

Man, those #'s just blow my mind, absoloutly incrediable.

That is really awesome though! It must be a rush to push that button for 60 Seconds while at the salt flats!

I think that would be the most fun 60 Seconds of my life if I ever got the chance!:tour

Thanks, guys, glad you like it. Unfortunately, we never got the chance to race it this year. I skipped the first race (which turned out to be a good decision, it was a disaster and got shut down early due to weather). Then I broke this motor badly just a few weeks before the second race and couldn't fix it in time. And then the third and fourth races got rained out. That's all we have at Bonneville, 4 races a year.

The above chart was made after the repairs. I had cracked the cases, stock cases will do that at these power levels. Sprung for some S&S cases (List $2200). They can hold this power level and then some. Race stuff is expensive, but failures are even more expensive. It generally pays to use the good stuff and buy it once.

I would love to see/hear some footage of these motors in action on the dyno, on the street, on the strip or on the salt. Can you post something on youtube?

Here's a video of a 203mph pass, not the above bike but our other race bike:

http://www.landracing.com/images/stories/video/Wilson.wmv

Aaron,

You are the bomb!:banapart

If, you don't mind answering, I have a question for you.

I see that the motor is fair size and you are spinning it to almost 8K,

What mods have you done to the lower end to allow it to spin that high?

I am guessing a S&S grade or better Buell style crank that is lightened and knife edged, Carrillo rods and lightened pistons.

Curious as to any case mods done aside from windage trays.

Oh man, you would ask about that ;)

The crank that was in that bike for the last 5 years wasn't even mine. It was on loan from someone. A very, very trick piece. That's all I can really say without getting someone in trouble. And if I get them in trouble, they'll never help me out again.

The motor also had a set of S&S cases that of course have their built-in crank scraper and reed valve. Plus raised oval prt STD heads. Kind of a best-of-everything build.

This year the bike is getting a stock case motor so we can put the bike back into it's proper class. I've been working hard on pulling together all the pieces parts for that motor and assembly will begin shortly. It's down at Dan's shop right now and he's going to work on it as he has time. I'm buried preparing two other bikes.

That new motor has a set of Carrillo 7.113's on considerably less trick wheels. It'll hold up fine, though.

We've done some things differently with respect to how we prepared the cases to keep it together. Sorry I don't want to get more specific than that. Figuring out how to make the big power is only half the game in land speed racing, you also have to figure out how to get it to live. Or rather, to get as much out of it as possible with an acceptable reliability level is the name of the game. Anyone can go build a hand grenade, but you won't set any records with a motor that scatters itself.

One thing I will reveal, and I truly have reason to believe it helps a lot, is we're going to full cast iron Axtell cylinders (we've been running Axtell nikasils on this motor). They actually add structural strength and rigidity to the whole assembly and because they grow so much less, they don't try to twist the motor so badly due to the left side link between the two heads. But we're doing other things too.

I'm sorry I can't tell a whole lot more than that. But this is a highly competitive game. Lots of the lessons we've learned were really difficult and expensive.

One thing I will say, Dan holds nothing back when he sells to a racer. He sells the stuff it takes to beat us. Of course, having the right parts is only part of the battle. You have to put it together well and tune and gear it well and do a thousand other little things right to get everything out of it.

seeing those #'s is so impressive!, just wondering did you use cams that were designed for nitrous or are the cams off the self parts?.

Plain Jane Red Shift 643's