Hi all,

Not sure if I remember introducing myself or not. But HI, I'm fairly new to bikes and purchased my first Harley in May of this year, 1200R, Orange. I have around 2100 miles on her now and just recently put V&H Shortshot HS pipes on and a 3" NRHS Filter set up on. I will get some pics up soon. I had it dynoed after the exhaust install and I need some help with making sure it's okay. I don't have it scanned in yet either so I will explain what I see.

First of all...the graph is power/torque vs speed from 35-110 (MPH) which I thought was strange.

Temp is 83 F and 29 in-HG

My max HP is 70 and torque is 75. The line is linear from 40mph to 95, with NO DIPS in torque or HP.

My af ratio is a little up and down (15.5-13.5) from 40-55 then is flat until 80 at 14. After that it dips slowly to 13 by 100 MPH.

Can you give me any input, I will try and get the graph scanned in!

One other thing...my idle after I am all warmed up is around 1400rpm...does this seem HIGH?

After all this I am wondering if I need to change from the stock carb configurations, it's running very well and I don't have any problems so far!


Thanks for any help in advance! James

don't know about anything else but idle sounds very high - should be about half of that. Mine idles at about 600 to 700 when warm. Unless you have hot cams you shouldn't need idle that high.

Cheers,

Brett

No Hot Cams...so would the high idle be caused by an incorrect jetting situation or is there an Idle screw that may have gotten bumped?

I normally choke it, start it and let it warm up. It will then idle down to 5-600 rpm but once I am out riding for a bit it will be up around 1400

Sounds like it's running ok. The mixture is a little lean although not dangerously. 13:1 will give the most power so you could richen it up a tad.

Idle should be 950 to 1100. Lower than 900 can cause lubrication problems. So says the crusty old wrench at the dealer, he is the only tech there I trust.

Can you post a copy of your sheet?

Thanks.

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b301/stepkeja/dyno.jpg

Hope that helps / works!

THanks for all the help, after reading I think that I may be running a little lean and the idle speed screw may need a slight adjustment.

James

James -

Couldn't get it to work.

The reason I'm asking for it is so that Aaron at NRHS can see a dyno with V&H pipes. He asked me for one when we were talking about my projects but I haven't done mine. I'm hoping to get some good head/cam advice from him for use with Straight Shots.

Thanks.

msu, check your PM's

I think I fixed it!

Thanks Moker....

I was using webshots....it's on Photobucket now!


Any feedback??

Thanks
james

OK, did you say this dyno was with pipes only and no change in the a/c or with both? IF both, then it is time to make some slight changes to carb tuning. If only pipes, then take it back with the a/c and have another run done so you know for sure how lean it is getting. And if I remember correctly, you said this is a bone stock carb....no jets or tuning at all.

The following comments are assuming this is with both the pipes and a/c.

1. Your main jet is fine.
2. Might try shimming the needle slightly
3. Maybe one size larger slow jet and retune your idle mixture
4. turn the idle down to 1000 rpms fully warmed.

Thanks for the input She...

Pipes VH Straightshot HS with a NRHS 3" Filter kit and Drag Specialties Breather kit. I will try and get some pics tonight!

Yup...No tuning so far. I did turn down the idle last night after the ride...idles right around 1000 now!

I am gonna read up in the Jetting 101 to determine what jet I need to get and how to do the idle and shim.

Thanks for the input!

No where does it say what RPM they were running w/ it through the curve. Is it just me, or isn't that something they usually show? If you're on the gas hard you'll have different readings than if you're on it soft.

That is a tad higher hp than I expected though, I thought I had heard to expect about 65hp. Good to know its higher (w/ a couple mods.)

1400 RPM is indeed too high, 1000 RPM is normal; it could just be that the trottle stop screw needs adjustment (easy).

I think you're definitely lean on the main most days. You're in Michigan and the run temperature is in the low-mid 80's, which is richer than temps in the 60s or 70s, much less the 40s we ride in up here. That run's barometric pressure is definitely low compared to a higher pressure day meaning your run is showing additionally richer than it would on a nicer day. The low barometric pressure may also indicate humidity was high, which has a much smaller effect on A/F ratio, but also would make the run on that day richer. With Detroit at roughly 2000' ASL, that run is richer than you would be at sea level, i.e. at Daytona, etc. but leaner than you would be up in the mountains.

While I'd prefer dynoing after doing one thing at a time, changing/adjusting the needle on a CV isn't practical while paying for dyno time. So I'd go up one on the main and shim the needle up about 0.020" with a small brass washer, and go back and do more runs when the temperature is in the high 60s-70 and on a clear day when the barometric pressure is in the mid-high 29 to maybe 30". That'll give you a better idea of your average year-round A/F ratio. Next time, have the dyno operator change the x-axis scale to RPM instead of MPH when he does the print out. If it's still lean, adjust from there.

You ought to be seeing 60 degree mornings where you are now. How does the bike do at light throttle around town? If it's missing or carb-farting occasionally, or detonating a little accelerating from a stop, you probably want to go from a #42 to #45 slow jet.

Hope this helps,
--
Maurice