Which type of oil are you using (or going to be using after break-in) in your Sportster engine?

This poll does NOT include oil used in your primary/clutch case or include any use of aviation oil.

I recently went from Bel Ray synth blend to Amsoil full synthetic. Bike seems to like it, it's quieter than it was with the synth blend, and I was able to run with an RC-51 yesterday on I-10. I'm happy.

Hey if Dyno oil is good enought ffor mother earth than its good enough for my Sporty!!

Amsoil 20W50 in both bikes.

H-D Syn3 in my scoot.

I'm changing to amsoil 20W50 soon.

I'm changing to amsoil 20W50 soon.
PM me... I know an Amsoil rep here and will give you his contact info.

amsoil 20w50

I plan on using Valovine 4 stroke M/C oil when I do my upgrade. Like the idea of syns -just don't like idea of 8 bucks per quart...

Currently I've got Syn3 in the Sporty, it does run cooler....

I've been looking at syns for my cars, Mobil7500 is my current oil of choice - 2.29 per quart at Walmart/Pepboys. It's a synblend, figure this is the best of both worlds.

Amsoil 20-50

Valvoline/Pennzoil,Castrol 20W-50.Racing preferred

Castrol 50W Motorcycle Racing Oil

Redline 20w50

I plan on using Valovine 4 stroke M/C oil when I do my upgrade.

Thats what I just started using in by bike after they stopped making Mobil 1 red cap.

Been running Red Cap after break in. After my stash of it is gone, I don't know what I'll use next. I would like to use Rotella T, but I still don't feel comfortable not having a -50 weight in there. Stevo's diesel-rated thick stuff isn't available, that I have found, Stateside. I may just go back to 20w-50 dino car oil and change it at 2500-3000 miles (which is where I would be changing any oil, synthetic or not. I had a hard time coughing up the $4/qt for Red Cap...3-5 times the cost of dino. Nothing mechanical that I have ever owned has had an oil-related failure...assuming, of course, that it had oil in it to begin with.

I am afraid that I succumbed to the 'Emperor's New Clothes' syndrome regarding synthetic oils in a Harley. A lot is made of the 'air-cooled Harley' vs the 'water-cooled automobile' and their differing requirements for oil. I am not really certain, that given reasonable oil change intervals, that there is any real-world advantages to one rated oil over another. Oil temps in cars run right about what our Harleys run...and need to in order to eliminate moisture in the oil. Perhaps in extreme climates, a difference. Florida gets pretty hot though, and I haven't noticed a temp difference between Wal-Mart 20w-50 dino car oil and Mobil 1 Red Cap. Honestly, I did not notice any improvement in the primary or tranny, either...at least on my bike.

I also buy generic cat food.

Kim

I'm going to be putting in Amsoil 20-50 at the next oil change.. :D

If you can't find a Diesel oil with a 50 weight top end ...

Then an automotive oil designed for LPG and/or turbos should have very similar specs...

Here's a link to the Penrite stuff, it's the one recomended by Penrite for Harleys as it's almost an exact replica of the HD specified oil...or it meets or exceeds all HD's specs anyway.....
I use the HPR Diesel as it's a grade higher

http://www.penrite.com.au/nextpage.php?navlink=db/productview.php&id=8

These are the critical specs you're after ...they are more important than the viscosity

"Exceeds API CG-4/SL performance levels and meets those of ACEA A3/B3/B4. Non friction modified. "

If you can find an oil locally that meets those specs ....specifically the ACEA B4 and the APT CG-4/SL ...then you should be fine

Having said that, you guys with snow on the ground would be better off with something with a 10 or less base

This is what I use.....good stuff.

Dynacycle II (http://www.dynacycleoil.com/pages/1/index.htm)

Amsoil 20-50 in both holes, also using the amsoil long chrome filter'

Mobil-1 V-Twin 20/50 engine.
Syn-3 in Tranny.

Everything you wanted to know about oil, any kind of oil, for just about any type of vehicle or peice of equipment can be found here:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi

More specifically for motorcyles:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=forum;f=9;DaysPrune=1000

Hope it helps. Kevin

Mobil 1 20-W50

I find it funny that for many years, Harley discourged owners to use synthetics in their motorcycles. Then they come out with syn3. It's still not fully synthetic. Mobil 1 isn't either to my knowledge. Even though Mobil 1 says their oil is fully synthetic, their website states: "Mobil 1 with SuperSyn uses high-performance fluids, including polyalphaolefins (PAOs), along with a proprietary system of additives." Those polyalphaolefins are what keep the costs down on Mobil1. To me, this means it is not "fully" synthetic. The reason why I chose Redline is because they only use the best poly ester-based stock products. This is a no-brainer for living in Texas, as I ride all thru the summer.

I use Mobil 1 in my Toyota Corolla because it is cheaper than Redline. I'd never use it in my sportster though.

I guess I am a bit biased towards Mobil1 in a Harley, but I would like to add the famous phrase for this poll: "You get what you pay for."

HD Syn3...

.......Hd Syn 3....

I tried a off brand 20w50 and my bike ran rough, so I went back to reg. HD oil. Have not tried the HD synt. yet. Heres my question How often do you change your oil. I change mine every 1000 mi.

I used Valvoline MC oil on my first change, but it is rarely available at one local Autozone. Last time I used RevTec Pure from a local indy. I'll probably continue using it until I make the jump to non-dino.

Unfortunately this is the indy that had ample quantities of 5W and 30W fork oil, but no 15W.

Hi.
I use the 20-50 Valvoline Motorcycle for air cooled motors.
I mix 2 quarts of that with one quart of Valvoline 20-50 full synthetic.

20w-50 Valvoline Motorcycle Oil (4 Stroke)

Jeffy ... That's the same oil I use now ... Except I don't mix it with anything.

$3.09 per qt. at AutoZone (still overpriced)

Working for ExxonMobil I can tell you that Mobil 1 IS Fully Synthetic.

Polyalphaolefins are the result of a highly refined base stock. Ester based products are actually cheaper and inferior!

The cost of a fully synthetic is not only down to the base oil used (Exxon provide a great deal of the base oil to blenders) but all the additives which include: Viscosity Improvers, Anti wear agents, detergents, anti foamers, dispersants and in some cases friction modifiers.

Mobil 1 was the worlds first Fully Synthetic oil for vehicles way back in the 70's.

Price is not always an indicator of quality as I know of a few brands that are more expensive but inferior to Mobil. It's all down to marketing..

Working for ExxonMobil I can tell you that Mobil 1 IS Fully Synthetic.

Polyalphaolefins are the result of a highly refined base stock. Ester based products are actually cheaper and inferior!

The cost of a fully synthetic is not only down to the base oil used (Exxon provide a great deal of the base oil to blenders) but all the additives which include: Viscosity Improvers, Anti wear agents, detergents, anti foamers, dispersants and in some cases friction modifiers.

Mobil 1 was the worlds first Fully Synthetic oil for vehicles way back in the 70's.

Price is not always an indicator of quality as I know of a few brands that are more expensive but inferior to Mobil. It's all down to marketing..

Sportymark, I can't seem to find any evidence proving that ester-based products are "cheaper and inferior" to PAO's. Can you show me where your seeing that? I am interested.

I'm switching to HD Synth next oil change.

regular old hd dino I change it 2 times a year and sporttrans crap in the primary .If it work not mess with it kinda thing. both my cars runn full syn.
odd huh!

After my 1000 mile break-in, I'm gonna go with the H-D syn 3. Always liked Mobil One in my stuff, and really like putting just one oil in all 3 holes.

...and really like putting just one oil in all 3 holes.

did you really have to say it like that?! :p

Amsoil 20-50

Ok, stupid question .... is Amsoil a brand? Is it 20 W50?
Thats' what I was told to use by a friend.
Where's the best online shop for oil and filters?

Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sportster Girl
...and really like putting just one oil in all 3 holes.


did you really have to say it like that?!


Oh, tekmoe, you so bad!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sportster Girl
...and really like putting just one oil in all 3 holes.


did you really have to say it like that?!


Oh, tekmoe, you so bad!

And I'll bet that 90% of the members will tell you they thought the same thing when they read that. And the other 10% are lying :laugh

What I was thinking to myself after I read that, I thought "OMG your such a pervert"... Til I saw the responses.

I'm still wondering where the third hole is.

I'm still wondering where the third hole is.


on the bike?????? or????? :shhhh





and yes a sporty is boy bike as it only has 2 holes.......

a big twin is a girl bike..as it has 3 ;)


but my jappas only have ONE :eek:

Ester based products are chemically produced in a non-refining environment, thus depending on type can be cheaper to produce.

Because of their limited applications and market segment they can be dearer to buy.

The main problem with esters is that they are produced to do a certain job and have little or no tolerance for anything else. By that I mean in an automotive application if there was a problem with an engine (such as excess fuel or water ingress) the oil could not cope and would seperate causing damage to the inner components.

Their inability to be mixed with a mineral product is a major handicap in the automotive world because if you needed to top up with oil you could not mix them. It is also advisable to use a flushing agent when switching between the two products to limit contamination.

Their viscosity range is also limited compared to an advanced PAO based product, meaning they do not have the ability to operate on a very wide range of temperatures reliably.

All oils have their place in the market but some are better at doing a job than others.

The confusion with all this is not what is classed as a "Fully Synthetic" oil but what is classed as a "Semi Synthetic" as only a small amount of additives can classify an oil as such.

Ester based products are chemically produced in a non-refining environment, thus depending on type can be cheaper to produce.

Because of their limited applications and market segment they can be dearer to buy.

The main problem with esters is that they are produced to do a certain job and have little or no tolerance for anything else. By that I mean in an automotive application if there was a problem with an engine (such as excess fuel or water ingress) the oil could not cope and would seperate causing damage to the inner components.

Their inability to be mixed with a mineral product is a major handicap in the automotive world because if you needed to top up with oil you could not mix them. It is also advisable to use a flushing agent when switching between the two products to limit contamination.

Their viscosity range is also limited compared to an advanced PAO based product, meaning they do not have the ability to operate on a very wide range of temperatures reliably.

All oils have their place in the market but some are better at doing a job than others.

The confusion with all this is not what is classed as a "Fully Synthetic" oil but what is classed as a "Semi Synthetic" as only a small amount of additives can classify an oil as such.

Sporty...I hear the term "Friction Modifiers" tossed around but never the definition or context..Could you possibly shed any light on this term ?
Thanks
Jim

I go for Mobil 1 all around. I like the syn and i like the fact that if in a pinch i canget it alot of places.......and the scoot doesn't use a bit! Probably in the head but seems like the syn is a smoother additive. I have not increased the interval.still at 2500..maybe waisting $$$ but good insurance

Ester based products are chemically produced in a non-refining environment, thus depending on type can be cheaper to produce.

Because of their limited applications and market segment they can be dearer to buy.

The main problem with esters is that they are produced to do a certain job and have little or no tolerance for anything else. By that I mean in an automotive application if there was a problem with an engine (such as excess fuel or water ingress) the oil could not cope and would seperate causing damage to the inner components.

Their inability to be mixed with a mineral product is a major handicap in the automotive world because if you needed to top up with oil you could not mix them. It is also advisable to use a flushing agent when switching between the two products to limit contamination.

Their viscosity range is also limited compared to an advanced PAO based product, meaning they do not have the ability to operate on a very wide range of temperatures reliably.

All oils have their place in the market but some are better at doing a job than others.

The confusion with all this is not what is classed as a "Fully Synthetic" oil but what is classed as a "Semi Synthetic" as only a small amount of additives can classify an oil as such.

SportyMark, good info! But I would still like to know where you are getting this from... ;)

I just rolled past 500 miles and will be changing the oil & replacing it with Amsoil 20-50W. Also getting the Amsoil chrome filter.

As I sell this stuff I have attended plenty of technical courses regarding the different methods of refining and production. I have also read a couple of technical books on the sunject, I see will see if I can track down the titles.

I know it sounds a little bias because I sell the stuff but I am a believer!!

"friction modifiers" are mainly used in car applications and are the same as Slick 50 etcand are designed to protect engine components if the oil level should run low. Bikes generally (except Harley's!) run "wet" clutches (oil soaked - to keep friction plates cool) so friction modifiers can cause these to slip.

Hope this is of help lads.

Sporty...I hear "Friction Modifiers" tossed around--
Jim


That's exactly what I was trying to tell my G/F!!! Friction? HELL---Ride ON~~~ :yikes :tour

Bikes generally (except Harley's!) run "wet" clutches (oil soaked - to keep friction plates cool) so friction modifiers can cause these to slip.

SO...Mobil-1 doesn't have Friction Modifiers ?
Harley doesn't run a "Wet Clutch" ?
Can Mobil-1 20/W50 be used instead of Sportrans Fluid In the tranny ?

Harley has a wet clutch.

Some bikes lube the clutch with the same oil that's in the motor. That's why these folks can't run engine oil that have friction modifiers.

In our bikes, the engine oil lubes only the engine, so friction modifiers in the engine oil are no problem for us ... we just use an oil with no friction modifiers in our tranny/clutch case ... such as Harley Sport-Trans fluid or engine oil with no friction modifiers.

Ron,

As I sell this stuff I have attended plenty of technical courses regarding the different methods of refining and production. I have also read a couple of technical books on the sunject, I see will see if I can track down the titles.

I know it sounds a little bias because I sell the stuff but I am a believer!!

"friction modifiers" are mainly used in car applications and are the same as Slick 50 etcand are designed to protect engine components if the oil level should run low. Bikes generally (except Harley's!) run "wet" clutches (oil soaked - to keep friction plates cool) so friction modifiers can cause these to slip.

Hope this is of help lads.

I still say Redline is the way to go. Maybe not for a Toyota Corolla, which is the exact reason I run Mobil 1 in her, but for my Harley, definitely. Redline is more expensive because "it’s not designed to be the cheapest—it’s built to be the best." Yes, that is straight from the Redline website. It may be a marketing gimmick, but I believe in the product, just as you believe in your product.

We've been running Redline 20w50 in the engine and 75w90 in the tranny for many years (12 to be exact). Never have we once had a problem. I see Mobil1 as a synthetic for the norms because anyone can get it. The oils like Amsoil, Royal Purple, and Motul, are for a specific breed. Redline as well. But I like Redline's approach to the general market. They aren't big on trying to prove anything with statistics and such...They go by real-world claims, by letting their customers speak about their expierences. I for one, am a customer for life.

Of course, I have no facts to back up any of my statements as to why Redline is better than any other oil. I am not a chemist. I just believe it is better. From the research I have done, Redline is most likely better than other oils when it comes down to specific needs. For my needs, I feel it IS better than any other oils. Texas weather, air cooled engine, riding hard. Yeah, Redline is for me.

Some points I picked up:

I believe Redline has formulated their oil to handle the typical automobile and motorcycle issues such as water and fuel as well as any other motor oil out there.

Esters have a better viscosity range than other base oils which is why all but the 5w40 Redline have no added viscosity index improvers

Especially with an air cooled engine (with no shrouded fan like a lawn mower has) Redline is the best bet as ester is the only hydrocarbon oil that can take the heat of jet turbine engines. (yes, a jet engine, and a harley engine are different animals, but it's nice to have the re-assurance.) :tour

This was posted before about fricition modifiers.

Originally Posted by blueglide88
You can use Mobil1 15-50. The reason some people mistakenly say you cannot is because of friction modifiers added to the oil. Mobil 1 gold cap has 79 ppm, less than Mobil V-Twin 20-50 which has 90 ppm. But dont take my word for it. Go to Bob is the oil guy for all you want to know about oil. here is a link to Bob's VOA library. That's virgin oil analisys. It has the chemical makeup of a lot of oils. Mobil 1 15-50 is without a doubt one of the best oils you can buy.


http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/voalibrary.html

running straight HD Dino right now but plan on amsoil 20-50 next oil change. High temperatures here in Texas, but all that I have read on synthics they all run cooler and quieter.

amsoil 20/50

I run the Royal Purple Max Cycle 20W50.

I use Amsoil 20W50 in engine and transmission.
Ok, stupid question .... is Amsoil a brand? Is it 20 W50?
Thats' what I was told to use by a friend.
Where's the best online shop for oil and filters?
Byrdman, Amsoil is a brand name. Their website is Here (http://www.amsoil.com/)
Really good information is located at this Amsoil dealer's website (http://www.performanceoiltechnology.com/index.html)

I use mobil 1 V twin 20 - 50 in both holes....

Amsoil 20W/50 motorcycle oil.

Just changed to HD synthetic from HD dino at 5000 mi. service....Havent noticed much difference.

syn 3 every 2500 miles

Amsoil 20w50.

i went with syn3 at the 1000 mile service and what a difference. it runs more cooler and smoother. will stick with it for sure.

Mobil 1 V-Twin

H-D Syn3 in my scoot.
I'm with Rob on this one.

I am using 15-40 Delo diesel, because I can get it at Costco, but am not real sure about how well it works. I have about 2.5k miles and the oil is BLACK! I will use what I purchased, but will be looking for something different next time.

"Exceeds API CG-4/SL performance levels and meets those of ACEA A3/B3/B4. Non friction modified. "

If you can find an oil locally that meets those specs ....specifically the ACEA B4 and the APT CG-4/SL ...then you should be fine

Having said that, you guys with snow on the ground would be better off with something with a 10 or less base

This forum never ceases to amaze me...

I've had to use Valvoline racing 20w50 since my Redline supply dried up...

I refuse to mail-order oil, so I'm looking for a suitable replacement for now...

To hell with brands...THIS was the info I needed to make a smart decision...

Thanx again, Stevo...

BTW, I AM assuming that any oil with these specs can also be used in the primary? Assuming 20w50 ?

Something like API SG, SL/CF; JASO MA; API GL-1 would be fine
with no friction modifiers for wet clutch use.
This is Amsoil SAE 20W-50 Synthetic Motorcycle Oil product MCV.

Can open, worms everywhere. :D

Which type of oil are you using (or going to be using after break-in) in your Sportster engine?

This poll does NOT include oil used in your primary/clutch case or include any use of aviation oil.

Castrol Syntec 20-50w data sheet.
SAE 20W-50: provides superior oil film strength and extreme high temperature protection.
Exceeds all car and light truck manufacturer's warranty requirements for the protection of gasoline, diesel and turbocharged engines where API SM, SL, SJ, SH, CF or CD is recommended.
Exceeds European ACEA: A3, B3, B4, and the engine protection requirements of GM 4718M, ILSAC GF-4 for API Certified Gasoline Engine Oils.

This is the oil I plan to use at next oil change. Tried the Amsoil, an Mobil 1 red cap. Use the HD Semi-snythetic trans. lub in the trans.

Castrol Syntec 20-50w data sheet.
SAE 20W-50: provides superior oil film strength and extreme high temperature protection.
Exceeds all car and light truck manufacturer's warranty requirements for the protection of gasoline, diesel and turbocharged engines where API SM, SL, SJ, SH, CF or CD is recommended.
Exceeds European ACEA: A3, B3, B4, and the engine protection requirements of GM 4718M, ILSAC GF-4 for API Certified Gasoline Engine Oils.

This is the oil I plan to use at next oil change. Tried the Amsoil, an Mobil 1 red cap. Use the HD Semi-snythetic trans. lub in the trans.
I'am useing castrol syntec 20/50 synthetic it meets everything i need for my '05 sportster. Plus i buy it for $4.72 a qt. If i used dino it would be castrol 20/50 too. I read a test that compared castrol dino 20/50 to honda's dino oil,yamalube, and a few other top motorcycle dino oils and the auto type castrol 20/50 beat them all hands down. It's hard to buy a motorcycle dino oil that cost as much as i buy castrol synthetic oil for. Before i started useing castrol oil i used mobil 1 red cap auto type for years.

RevTech 20w/50 throughout here.

Royal Purple Synthetic 20/50 and their Max-Gear 75W90 @ the primary.:D I'm a happy lad!

H-D 60 weight. It dont leak out as fast!!!

I just switched over to Mobil 1 V-twin synthetic and the Green Machine runs about 20 degrees cooler. I'm a very happy camper.

Bob

HD Syn3

She runs about 20 degrees cooler.

Amsoil 20w50

HD Syn 3. Cooler by 20-30 degrees! Plus dealer told me not as many problems when bike hibernates for the winter.

Fred

Mobil 1, 15/50 engine and transmission

Im new to the motorcycle scene and am just curious about what kind of oil do you guys use in you engine/tranny/gearbox?

HD 20-50, Check some other threads. They are full of polls about oil.

Castrol or valvoline 50w or 60w racing oil. Usually valvoline 60w, as it's easier to find.
$2.69 a qt. @ Autozone. 50w in the winter.

I've always run Valvolene 20 / 50 Racing in my H-D's. It supposed to be able to handle the heat and needs of a 4 stroke scooter no problem and from my experiance it great!

Spectro Golden American 20W50 Semi-Synthetic
New Name ... now called Spectro Heavy Duty Golden 20W50

Quiet and cool running.....