S&S Super E Still Running Rich

[dneyer]

:frownone I've have a 1997 1200C with a S&S Super E, V&H Straightshots, 11K miles
It's run rich ever since I bought it in March.
1st time I took it to the dealer I had the 1000k service with syn3 added and new plug wires - $172 it then started backfiring and running rough- fouled plugs (all black)
2nd time I took it to the dealer- they cleaned the float bowl, cleaned jets, drained tank and cleaned petcock filter, adjusted carb air fuel and acceration pump. - after riding about 200 miles- ran rough- fouled plugs (all black) $225
3rd time I took it to the dealer- Still running rich- rejetted with .062 main jet
dyno'd and was told it's "within range" $100
STILL FOULING PLUGS
Spoke to service mgr ((I was very polite) I said it's still running rich and fouling plugs, what are you going to do? "Bring it in"
4th time I took it to the dealer - installed smallest jet and their quote
"bike will still run a tad bit rich" $0 dollars
I notice when I put it on the kickstand it wants to die, like it's flooding.

Part of me will never spend another dime at that dealer, but on the other hand, I have too much invested and it's still not running right. I may speak with the owner next. But I want to go in with as much knowledge as possible. I'm trying to find out if they are incompetent or is my setup just plain wrong.
Now my questions are, is the S&S Super E just too much carb for the bike?
If so, what should I go with? I'm at wits end. Any advise is appreciated.

Pictures are posted here if you would like to see it.

http://www.neighborshare.com/Clients/Neyer/HarleyDavidson/Picture%20Library/Forms/AllItems.aspx?RootFolder=%2fClients%2fNeyer%2fHarl eyDavidson%2fPicture%20Library%2f1

[bruce1200xlh]

Hi,
Sounds like they re-jetted the wrong circuit and 62 sounds WAY too lean.. Check which intermediate jet you have and go from there. Also check your needle and seat to make sure it's not being held open. You MUST run a fuel filter!!! The petcock screen is NOT good enough. I have a Super E on a 91 1200 w/ Andrews N2's and SE2 pipes. I am running a 68 main jet and a 26 Intermediate jet, my plugs are just about perfect and the bike goes like a bat outa.... Download the manual from S&S. Follow the basic instructions on carb setup. Also check the float level. That can really booger things up if not set right.

Take your time. The E's are not hard to work on but do take some time. When setting the idle mixture make sure the bike is VERY warm, other wise you will set the screw too rich. Found that out the hard way. Also didn't read the manual closely enough or I wouldn't have made that mistake.

One long shot is to check your ignition. I had the dreaded S&S bog and couldn't get rid of it. Turns out I had a burned ignition wire AND coil. Go figure...... Good luck and keep at it. When you get that sucker tuned you will love the performance!

[BraveLongwords]

Sad to hear your situation.

A lot of HD Dealers normally work with CV carbs, so their "carb guy" may need a refresher course on S&S. The previous post was pretty much right on the money, especially regarding the float.

With only 200 miles (probably not highway driving at 3500rpm) and fouled plugs, I'd target less on the jets and more on "rudimentary" items.

The float means having to remove the bowl, so I'd check the choke/enrichment pin first. If the backplate was never mounted properly (with the correct shims), it's easy to have the rubber breather tube get pinched by the choke lever. If that pin isn't seating, then it will run rich all the time. Removing and reinstalling the carb several time should have solved this, but there's a chance the choke pin/seat is damaged or dirty.

It's quick, easy and should take less time than removing and disassembling the entire card (for the 10th time?).

If your choke pin isn't seating 100%, then you'll spend forever chasing ghosts.

[BraveLongwords]

I removed the float bowl on my S&S Super E to clean things up.

When I pulled down the bowl, the small o-ring that goes on the Ejector Nozzle was stuck under the main carb body. No problem. I reached up and took the bugger off.

Now it dawns on me....:doh :doh :doh !!!

This could be a major problem for other guys who are doing jet changes, bowl cleaning or float checks!:banana

Most shops put parts in a tray. If it doesn't make it to the tray, then it's not reinstalled or replaced. Sounds logical doesn't it? Most mechanics don't have carb breakdown diagrams tatooed on the backs of their hands.

If that o-rings (S&S part number 50-8096) isn't there, then the ejector nozzle becomes another jet!

The gap between the Nozzle "nut" and the main carb body is HUGE compared to a jet!!! If that o-ring isn't there to seal things up, fuel vapor (and even liquid fuel) will get sucked right into the manifold. NO JET CHANGE IN THE WORLD WILL FIX THE PROBLEM.

Of course S&S (in their infinite wisdom) sells the buggers in a 10 pack, probably because guys with sausage-link fingers loose the buggers quick.

Anyone with an overly rich Super E or G???? Make sure that little o-ring is mounted on the Ejector Nozzle!!!Happy Trails

[Jackcul]

I've been having the same problem. Bought the bike in Dec. and every time I went through a tank of gas, I would foul the plugs. I was running Champion 8810's. I switched to an 8812's and got three tanks of gas before the fouled.

After reading this thread I pulled out all the S&S paperwork I got from the guy I bought bike from and he has noted on the S&S manual 80 main jet and a 32 intermediate jet. Look to big?

Thanks,

Jack

[glenns]

can some one post a link to the SS site i cant seem to find it.

thanks glenn

[rottenralph]

I HAVE .285 WITH A 66 MAIN JET. I TRIED 27 62 AND IT WAS WAY TO LEAN. i NEED A 64 BUT STILL NEED TO GET TO BE PERFECT. WENT LIKE A RAPED APE WITH 62 BUT POPPED ALOT ON DECEL.