While checking my timing and trying to tweak out some vibration, I broke the upper screw holding in the ignition module. Don't know why, I did not have but a little torque on it when it twisted off in the hole. Tried an ez out, wouldn't budge. Drilled and tapped the screw-- did a decent job of drilling center of the screw, tapped the hole for a bigger screw, and on the final cleanout with the tap, it hung. Didn't bottom out, just would only pivot a quarter turn. Well, I broke it too. Now the ignition and cover is held in place with the bottom screw with some silicone at the top to hopefully hold things in place. Had a few words at myself, but am at a loss on how to try to fix this. The tap is broken about .125" below the surface of the hole. Any suggestions?

When all was said and done, I didn't end up changing the timing a bit. So much for a relaxing evening tinkering.

cant think of the name of the tool/machine used but the local machine shop here has a machine that will (burn) out the tap with no damage to surrounding aluminum. If I see my friend who works there ill ask him what it is called tomorrow.Dont worry all is not lost! It is a simple fix. Frank

Can you re-drill both holes, sliding the housing up a bit?

I cammed-out four of the torx bolts on the trans cover on my 04 883. I was lucky enough to get them broke loose with an impact screwdriver. I know those self same said choice words- I said them myself.

I've stripped out a couple of bolts and I use either HeliCoil or PeraCoil repair kits. The kits work great and can be picked up at your local hardware or automotive store.

You may get lucky if you use a small punch and hammer,pecking the tap in the direction of loosening and tightening alt.
Also if you are near a tool supplier you could pick up a tap extractor and back it out.
If when you use the hammer and punch,it moves any you may try a small set of needle nose pliers to back it out.
Otherwise I am afraid you may have to find a machine shop with an EDM to remove it for you.I am not sure you can do this without removing the side cover,or at least the one we have at our shop would not do it.
Don

fbcruiser is correct. I worked in a production machine shop many years ago and my job was reworking parts. Often taps were broken off in a part and I would ''burn'' it out. The device was mounted on a drill press type of feed mechanism. It consisted of a power supply at a small voltage (6-12 volts) It was attached to a holder that had a copper or brass tube, smaller than the inside threaded diameter of the hole to be cleared. It was mounted so as to allow for about 1/4'' of up and down 'float'. Through the tube flowed water at a slow stream. The burner was insulated from the rest of the table, the table providing the ground. (Like a welder grounds his welding table instead of clamping the ground to the part) The part is placed on the table and the tip of the tube (electrode) is brought into contact with the offending tap and it sparks, converting part of the tap and the tube into slag. Simultaneously, the water at the instant of the spark, turns to steam, blowing the slag out of the hole. The floating action of the tip allows it to pop up, breaking the circuit and then drop back down to repeat the process. You just keep it slightly touching the part as it goes. The water also keeps the area cool and therefore only the part actually in contact with the electrode gets 'burned' away. After the tap is removed, the hole is drilled for a helicoil tap, (it's a special size) and tapped and a helicoil inserted, thus retaining the original thread size.

Crackermank, the advice so far sounds good, but I'm going to suggest that torqueing many of the small screws, IMO, is overdone. I don't do it! In fact, I've gone over my bike and loosened a number of the small torx stuff just to snug it by hand. Torqueing the small stuff, too often, causes too much grief!

I regularly grab a tool and make quick checks to see if anything is loose and I never do.

Torquedoff Billy

Torquedoff Billy

I'm with you on this especially on the aluminum stuff, hand tight with locktite.

Torquedoff Billy I'm with you on this especially on the aluminum stuff, hand tight with locktite.

We should start a thread!
"Who gets torqued off with all the torqueing business"!
Billy

I can't think of anything to say! I all tapped out! I could just die! :wonderlan

Torquedoff Billy
I'm with you on this especially on the aluminum stuff, hand tight with locktite.
Before someone takes that reply wrong, I want to point out that there are some bolts that I do torque "by the book," for one, the head bolts. Also, all parts that bolt together where a gasket is involved get touqued to specs. There are reasons for a lot of bolts to be torqued to the correct specs. and sequence which should not be ignored. Use your good judgement when working on your bike.


We should start a thread!
"Who gets torqued off with all the torqueing business"!
Billy
Good one Billy...

No offense on the torque, although I felt I was not using enough to twist off a screw.

Did some research with some of the tips given, also grinding it out with a pencil grinder or a carbide cutter will do the trick. The tap is broken too deep to reach with a punch (and pretty small- a no.8), so I may try to rig up a jig to bore the tap out.