Since I got all my winter maintenance done early on my bike :clap , I'm thinking about changing the fork oil.
After filling the forks up with fresh oil, are the nuts hard to get back on? I wont have to remove the bars just to change fluid do I?
Is it a one man job? They are stock shocks.

Loosen the bars and bring them slightly forward. Put the front end up in the air or yer gonna have springs in yer puss. Other than that yer good to go. Be careful of the springs tho. They still have some preload. I think the wrench size is 1- 1/16

The wrench size on both of my Sportys is 1,3/8. You should not use an adjustable wrench. Spend the big bucks and get a correct size wrench. A socket for your ratchet is best as it will hold the bolt and keep it from popping out into your face. You may have to get a 1/2" ratchet to hold that socket.

Yes, be sure to do the work with the front wheel off the ground; except perhaps when you are pumping the forks to get the old fluid out.

It can be a bit of a challenge to get the fork top bolts back on, especially your first time. But it is doable.

You should not have to remove the bars etc.

Do one side at a time! Do not have both fork top bolts off at the same time.

The wrench size on both of my Sportys is 1,3/8. .

OOPS! My bad... :shhhh

I scanned the manual so I had a good idea but it wasn't near me and I couldn't remember if the bars had to be moved. I didn't think the springs were that long.
I just didn't know about getting the nuts on under pressure.

I plan on draining then pumping the rest out, then taking nuts off.
Why only one at a time?

Thanks, did a test drive for the new brake system yesterday :tour , 68 out!

Put some tape around the fork caps to protect the chrome. Also, cover the tank,front fender and chrome a/c with heavy towels(just in case those caps go flying).

REPLACING FORK SPRINGS & FORK OIL on 04-05 SPORTSTERS (and mabe earlier models too)

Read the instructions included with your Progressive front fork spring kit !

To empty the forks: Remove the small drain screws near the bottom of each fork. When you remove these, a small amount of fork oil will squirt out. Have rags on the ground to catch all the oil.

Pump the front end of the bike up and down many times (full stroke) to remove the remaining oil. The majority of the oil will be removed when pumping the forks. When all oil is removed, re-install the drain screws. Clean all oil from the front brake disks, calipers, wheels and the floor.

Jack the bike up so there's no weight on the front wheel and forks.

Put a large thick towel over the fuel tank and remove the handlebars (with everything still attached) and set them carefully on the tank. This gets them out of the way for removing the fork caps.

Using a 1 3/8" socket, remove the fork caps … Be careful, as these caps are under slight pressure from the fork springs. A piece of electrical tape can be placed around the end caps to prevent scratching during removal and installation.

Once the fork caps are removed, remove the springs and pour in approx. 9oz of new fork oil per fork. Recommend Bel-Ray 15wt.

The correct oil level can be insured by now fully lowering the bike so the forks completely collapse (no wieght on the bike lift). With the springs still removed, measure the distance from the top of the fork tube down to the top of the oil level in the fork. This distance should be no less than 5 1/2". I set mine down to the 6" level. (I had to add another 1oz of oil to get the oil level to 6")

Raise the bike again so the front wheel is off the ground. Slide the new fork springs back in. The end of the springs will need to extend approx. 3/4” out of the fork tubes for preload. If the springs do not extend out of the fork tubes the required 3/4", a piece of PVC plastic tubing (spacer) will need to be cut and placed above the springs so as the spacer sticks out of the folk tube the required 3/4" distance. This PVC tubing should be included in the Progressive spring kit. If any PVC tubing is used as a spacer, then a large washer will be need to be placed on top of the spring (between the spring and the PCV tubing) on each fork. These washers should also be included in the kit.

Note: Be advised that since the fork cap will screw 3/4" into the fork, this will actually give a total of 1 1/2" spring preload with the spacer sticking out of the fork 3/4" prior to fork cap install. (my bike required a 3" PVC spacer)

Re-install the fork caps and handlebars.
____________________________________________

Note: The required 1 3/8" socket is not available for your 1/2" drive ratchet. So, get the following socket and adapter for your 1/2" drice ratchet.

Autozone
'Great Neck' P/N S0138
1 3/8" socket - 3/4" drive
$8.99

Autozone
'Great Neck' P/N AD75
3/4" drive to 1/2" drive adapter
$2.99
____________________________________________

Progressive Fork Springs for 04-05 Sportster:

P/N: 11-1527
Alternate P/N: 11-1523 or P/N 11-1130

Thanks all and Turbota I did read your post in a pevious search.

I was mainly worried about getting the nuts back on by myself.

I made a clone of the Trock fork spring compressor for about $13. Works like a champ. I have loads of photos, but haven't figured out how to upload them and explain what each is. :o

Kim

Why only one at a time?


One fork will hold the bike up. Same with back end: remove only one shock at a time.

One fork will hold the bike up. Same with back end: remove only one shock at a time.

I'm just changing the fluid?

I made a clone of the Trock fork spring compressor for about $13. Works like a champ. I have loads of photos, but haven't figured out how to upload them and explain what each is. :o

Kim

I never heard of it. I'll look up Trock fork online and see what comes up.

I'm just changing the fluid?

You have to remove the fork cap bolt to change the fluid. There is nothing then to hold the fork spring in the tube or to hjold the front of the bike up. If you remove both fork caps at the same time the front will fall down.

[QUOTE=IronMick]You have to remove the fork cap bolt to change the fluid. There is nothing then to hold the fork spring in the tube or to hjold the front of the bike up. If you remove both fork caps at the same time the front will fall down.[/QUOTE\

Okay, thanks. Sounds like my main problem is going to be getting the front wheel off the ground and keeping it good and solid. I haven't made or bought a lift yet.

You can get these Chinese made motorcycle lifts for about $50-$70 at lots of stores. Bought mine at Checker Auto for $50. I think 95% of them are all made by the same company in China. Pretty good lift too once you figure out the best way to position it under the bike.

You can get these Chinese made motorcycle lifts for about $50-$70 at lots of stores. Bought mine at Checker Auto for $50. I think 95% of them are all made by the same company in China. Pretty good lift too once you figure out the best way to position it under the bike.

Yeah, I seem to miss out when they are $50.

I found one by Larin ...on clearance at Tractor Supply....50.00

Something I found in the book 101 Harley Davidson Performance Projects.

"To save time and effort, don't bother to remove the cap bolts on top of the fork tubes. Simply use an oil can and a piece of rubber tubing with a modified cap from a Bic pen (or the equivalent) fixed to the end. Pour the measured amount of fluid into the oil can, screw the Bic pen adaptor into the fork drain hole, and pump the oil in. Replace the drain screw quickly once the adapter has been removed, to minimize any fluid losses."

Haven't had the need to do it yet, but sounds like it should work okay.

Something I found in the book 101 Harley Davidson Performance Projects.

"To save time and effort, don't bother to remove the cap bolts on top of the fork tubes. Simply use an oil can and a piece of rubber tubing with a modified cap from a Bic pen (or the equivalent) fixed to the end. Pour the measured amount of fluid into the oil can, screw the Bic pen adaptor into the fork drain hole, and pump the oil in. Replace the drain screw quickly once the adapter has been removed, to minimize any fluid losses."

Haven't had the need to do it yet, but sounds like it should work okay.

Your talking about the blue cap? Do you cut the tip off and put that end into the fork and the hose over larger hole of the cap? The cap will screw in?

Since I got all my winter maintenance done early on my bike :clap , I'm thinking about changing the fork oil.
After filling the forks up with fresh oil, are the nuts hard to get back on? I wont have to remove the bars just to change fluid do I?
Is it a one man job? They are stock shocks.

What kind of oil did you use?

Did you know that the standard is often a 10W?
And that putting a 15W or mixing 50-50% 10W and 15W you obtain a 12,5W, so you can change the hidraulic brake effect of the suspension?

--
Mr. Mechano
'04 XL1200C red/silver
Kawasaki ZRX1200 152hp

If you're looking for a lift, check Pep Boys. I don't have one but a buddy of mine does and I've used it on my Sporty. It worked great and I think he said he got it for $59.00 :D

What kind of oil did you use?

Did you know that the standard is often a 10W?
And that putting a 15W or mixing 50-50% 10W and 15W you obtain a 12,5W, so you can change the hidraulic brake effect of the suspension?

--
Mr. Mechano
'04 XL1200C red/silver
Kawasaki ZRX1200 152hp


Yes, I am going to put in the next heavier weight, haven't changed it yet. I made a lift the other day and am going to try it out today. It is the one made out of 4x8 piece of wood.

Yes, I am going to put in the next heavier weight, haven't changed it yet. I made a lift the other day and am going to try it out today. It is the one made out of 4x8 piece of wood.

Citroen, Renault and Peugeot France cars have a nice small lift with a rombus structure. Soldering two square iron plates on it's bottom and upper side you'll have a perfect lift for a cheap price. You can buy (or maybe they'll give for free) into a car cemetery (I mean that place where they dismantel cars and sell in pieces).

--
Mr. Mechano
'04 XL1200C red/silver
Kawasaki ZRX1200

Citroen, Renault and Peugeot France cars have a nice small lift with a rombus structure. Soldering two square iron plates on it's bottom and upper side you'll have a perfect lift for a cheap price. You can buy (or maybe they'll give for free) into a car cemetery (I mean that place where they dismantel cars and sell in pieces).

--
Mr. Mechano
'04 XL1200C red/silver
Kawasaki ZRX1200

I will give that some consideration but I have one already built, I have to test it out yet. I have ancestors from Naples I believe, not sure if that is near you, probably not.

Yes its the blue tip, end trimmed off. Pictures show the top being pushed/screwed in and held in place with free hand.

I couldn't find an 13/8" socket today and cracked the nuts loose with a crescent wrench. Will I be able to hold my hand on the wrench with the other on top of the nut and keep them springs under control when I finish unthread the nut or do I have to have a socket? Will I have to have a socket to put the nuts back on? Anyone try taking fork nuts off and on with just a wrench?
All I found was 20 weight, that should be good for stock springs, shouldn't it?
Thanks

Chuck ....

You may have some big problems trying to start that end cap with a crescent wrench.

Did you check with Auto Zone for the socket and adapter you need to fit your 1/2" drive breaker bar or ratchet? Again, there is no 1 3/8" socket that will fit a 1/2" drive ratchet (they don't come that big). That's why you need one for a 3/4" drive ratchet ... and then the adapter to make it fit your 1/2" drive ratchet or breaker bar:

Autozone
'Great Neck' P/N S0138
1 3/8" socket - 3/4" drive
$8.99

Autozone
'Great Neck' P/N AD75
3/4" drive to 1/2" drive adapter
$2.99

Yeah, I figured! I will find one. I went to our local auto store had the socket and adapter on the counter, when he said the socket was $25 I said whoa! :yikes Never did find out what the adapter was. I need to find one to borrow or find a Chinese one somewhere.

Stange thing, when I drained the fluid it seemed like one shock had quite a bit more fluid than the other.

I will give that some consideration but I have one already built, I have to test it out yet. I have ancestors from Naples I believe, not sure if that is near you, probably not.

I live to north of Italy, it's a bit far from here but not so much. I go to Naples on summer, from there I take a ship to Palermo (Sicily) where my mother and my brother live...

--
Mr. Mechano
'04 XL1200C red/silver
Kawasaki ZRX1200

The lift I made worked well. Borrowed that huge socket and got her all done. :clap
I could only find 20wt and 30wt so I used the 20. Do you think I'll feel a difference? Seems a little tighter which is good.
I'm going to post that question, I think, if I don't get much of a response.
Thanks everyone.

Don't even try to reinstall the caps without a socket wrench, you could get really hurt. There is a lot of energy in those springs as compressed and its tough enough getting the threads started with a socket. Go to a mechanic nearby and ask to borrow one, you might have to leava a deposit, but it's worth a shot.

You must have missed my last post Bill.
Mission accomplished. I have 20 weight in it now. Trying to get some feedback on that. Seems to feel good in the garage anyway.

yep, i missed that one chuck, musta got hung up in the wire somewhere. anyway maybe we can save someone from damaging their tank or face. i have about 4 k on the 20 weight, tightened it up nicely.

There is a lot of energy in those springs as compressed and its tough enough getting the threads started with a socket.

http://xlforum.net/photopost/data/500/117trock_spring_compressor.jpg
Commercial tool for compressing fork springs-cost: about $129 :yikes

http://xlforum.net/photopost/data/500/117disassembled_clamp.jpg
http://xlforum.net/photopost/data/500/117clamp_in_use_starting_to_compress.jpg
You can build(easily) this equivalent for about $13.

Kim