I'm working on an 88" build for a friend of mine and I took a few snapshots, just to kind of show him what he's getting for the money he's spending. He posted them on a Buell site and there was a bit of interest, I thought maybe y'all might find this a little interesting too.

http://www.nrhsperformance.com/pictures/courtflywheels.jpg

This picture shows his flywheel assembly, which we re-did with S&S rods & crankpin. Notice the lightening holes near the crankpin, from rebalancing. The S&S rods are quite a bit heavier than the stock pieces and this is what it took to get the balance right. Also notice the crank scraper and windage tray. It peels the oil off the crank and isolates the oil in the bottom of the cases to keep the windage from the crank from sloshing it around. We put these into most 88" builds.



http://www.nrhsperformance.com/pictures/centerbolt.jpg

We drill the center bolt all the way through, spot face the pushrod side, and use a long bolt with washers on each end and a nylock nut. Then we bore the cases, and it cuts the bolt into a "V" shape. New cylinder studs of course.


A couple more ...

http://www.nrhsperformance.com/pictures/courtsmotorleftside.jpg

We also changed that spacer on the sprocket shaft, since the seal rides on it and it gets a groove in it over time.


http://www.nrhsperformance.com/pictures/courtsmotorrightside.jpg

There's a new oil pump drive gear available that's made out of bronze, we'll be using one of those. It's a problem wear area on these motors and if it gets too bad it messes things up.

I'll add more pics to this thread as we get farther on the build. He's having me do this in phases as he can afford it, or get it past his wife without too many complaints ;)

looks good so far, can't wait for an update

that's the kind of interesting stuff i was looking for when i found this site!
thanks!

Thanks for sharing the info. Any thoughts on Millenium's new 90" kit?

Awesome Looking Build!!!!:clap :clap :clap

Looking forward to the updates!!!:D

Happy to share, guys, if y'all find it interesting.

Rigpa, I've done 90" kits, and did my first one long before they introduced them. One of my personal bikes has one. And I'll still do them if a customer requests it. But I don't push it, because I'm not that crazy about it. The cylinder loses a fair bit of it's structural integrity because you have to make it so thin in the area adjacent to the pushrods. I much prefer the 88ci setup, I don't think it's a good trade-off to lose that much strenght in the cylinder for a couple of inches. Just my opinion, obviously theirs is different.

good lord, sign me up**! :banana






**uh yea, i don't have any money.. you take holiday cheer? :smoke

Happy to share, guys, if y'all find it interesting.

ahhhh........YES
well detailed info there arron.

cheers
crackers

making me drool.....Keep the updates coming....

Wow. Neat stuff.

Makes me want to ride my bike to Colorado for the same treatment.

How long does it normally take to do an 88" job on a 1200C?

Thanks, guys. Now I wish I had taken more pictures.

Dusty, it depends. A person can just take it apart, bore the cases, and put it back together. But generally people want a more thorough job, like I'm doing to this one, and that ends up adding a bunch of time to the project.

For example ... nothing really wrong with his flywheel assembly, it was in spec. But it had 30K miles on it. I laid out his options to him. Leave it alone. Resize the rods and replace the bearings, optionally the crank pin, which would've run a couple hundred, or go with a set of S&S rods/crankpin/bearings and then it would need rebalancing, for a total of more like $500. Or we could've updated to the 00-newer pressed crank assembly, a brand new one is a few bucks more than that, it's a light strong assembly but then the rods wouldn't be as good. Or we could've done a full knife-edged lightened race crank for say $1200 or so. He chose the S&S rods route, and rebalancing is a good thing regardless, factory balance job are about like factory boring jobs.

New sprocket shaft bearings & races? Of course. Ditto the pinion bearing and final drive bearing. Update the anti-rotation pins to the screw in style. Clearance the cam box for the biggest cams he could ever imagine running. Update the oiling. Crank scraper and windage tray while we're in there. The cases are really dingy looking, might as well powder coat'em. All of those things are more or less optional (well, not the bearings, that'd just be stoopid to not change those), and they add time and money to the project.

Case prep & assembly actually takes quite a while. Strip'em down, including the final drive bearing (which takes a special tool to remove) and sprocket shaft races (another special tool). Send them out for powder coating. When they come back, put'em on the mill and drill the center hole through and spot face it. Drill and tap the tappet pin holes (2 drilling operations each). Clearance the cam box. Now over to the CNC machine and bore them. Clean'em up good and press new sprocket shaft races in (another special tool). Install the windage tray and crank scraper. Install the flywheel assembly into the left side (another special tool), measure end play, press it apart and change the shim, put it back together again, measure again to make sure it's right. Measure the pinion races and look up which bearing it needs and install it on the pinion shaft. Seal and assemble the crankcase halves and torque all the fasteners. Install cylinder studs. Install the final drive bearing and gear (special tool). Install the sprocket shaft seal and spacer (another special tool).

By the time you've done all that, you've spent all day on it, plus the several hours you spent on the flywheel assembly, which was basically a whole 'nother day. So it doesn't look like much in the above pictures, but there's a hell of a lot of work into getting to that point. And we haven't even assembled the primary, cam box, or top end yet. The top end in particular can really take awhile if you're doing something radical with the cams, lots of mock assemblies, claying, clearancing, etc. With mild cams it's not too bad.

So anyway, what I'm getting at is that a build like this ain't your average Harley shop stock-motor engine assembly, and it takes a whole bunch longer. If a guy can do any or all of it himself it starts making a whole lot more sense, and that's really what we do the most of: providing the specialized parts & services and helping people through it. You'd be amazed how many folks have succcessfully done this themselves, just hiring us to do for example the case prep.

http://www.nrhsperformance.com/pictures/courtcambox.jpg
I like to lube up the cam box good.

http://www.nrhsperformance.com/pictures/courtcamboxcover.jpg
Cam box buttoned up, new machined steel timing rotor.

http://www.nrhsperformance.com/pictures/courtprimary.jpg
Upgraded him to the newer 8-bolt rotor, new clutch, heavier spring.

http://www.nrhsperformance.com/pictures/danascases.jpg
OK, so these are Dana's cases, you get the idea

http://www.nrhsperformance.com/images/clearancingskirt.jpg
Gotta watch the piston to piston clearance on big bores.

http://www.nrhsperformance.com/images/installingcylinder1.jpg
Jon slides the piston & cylinder assembly into place.

http://www.nrhsperformance.com/images/pvcunions.jpg
Guess where we got the cylinders. These are iron lined aluminum.

http://www.nrhsperformance.com/images/positioningmotor.jpg

http://www.nrhsperformance.com/images/trimmingclay.jpg
Claying it.

http://www.nrhsperformance.com/images/measuredepth.jpg
Plenty of depth, not enough eyebrow.

http://www.nrhsperformance.com/images/clearancepocket.jpg
So make some room!

http://www.nrhsperformance.com/images/installtubes.jpg
Fancy pushrod bases.

http://www.nrhsperformance.com/pictures/halfbikeleft.jpg
Ready for the frame. I had to repack his swingarm bearings, they were dry.

http://www.nrhsperformance.com/pictures/halfbikeright.jpg
I left the belt off because I found a small chunk missing from it.

http://www.nrhsperformance.com/pictures/frontmotormount.jpg
I literally took the mount from the CNC machine to the bike. You need this mount to put these heads on.

http://www.nrhsperformance.com/pictures/courtrunning.jpg
The motor runs.

http://www.nrhsperformance.com/pictures/newbelt.jpg
Got him one of those new bulletproof belts.

http://www.nrhsperformance.com/pictures/courtdone.jpg
Running!

http://www.nrhsperformance.com/pictures/courtbeforeandafter.gif
Before and after dyno pulls. Do you think he'll notice the difference? :)

Damn, I hate it when I drool on my keyboard :roflblack

Thanks for the eye candy guys, love this stuff :clap :clap :clap

Great info guys...we all love images. The boys at Nrhs have my used components for a complete 88 inch top end conversion, pistons,cylinders and thunderstrom heads that did similar power to this kit...the whole kit for a bit less than half price of new at only $1500...and they already have it there waiting for someone to step up. great oppurtunity to get an 88 inch on the cheap.
This kit ran great right to the day it came off.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v700/Narley/Harley%20racing/88inchparts.jpg

http://www.nrhsperformance.com/pictures/courtbeforeandafter.gif
Before and after dyno pulls. Do you think he'll notice the difference? :)

Oh my :censoring God!!! I'd call him weekly and make sure isn't in the hospital! Those are some gnarly numbers! :banarock

let's see.... mortgage or sportster upgrade...

so how much did all of this cost?

Cost is relative to how much power you want to make and how reliable you want it to be.

Normal 88" builds usually run about $3000-5000 depending on the above factors plus how much has already been done to the bike befirehand ie; carb, cams, pipes, etc..

Kerry, you do like teasing (read: torturing) us with that kit, don't you? If only it weren't for that damned outside world wanting the bills paid, I'm sure we'd all be lining up to buy that kit...I know I would!

there's a world outside?

Yes Virginia, there is an Outside World. That's where the nice people live who pay those of us who aren't taking part in drag races day in and day out [correction: those of use who aren't taking part in sanctioned drag races...:D]. Unfortunately, some of those people aren't so nice. The people at the bank pretended to be nice to me one day and said "yes, go ahead and buy that bike". So, I took their advice and bought the bike; now they want me to pay them money...EVERY month! Awfully greedy of them, if you ask me.

greedy and inconsiderate.
Or as quoted from a favorite movie.
INCONCEIVABLE!

Casper,
It's funny how you said how your bank expects you to pay them back.

On car dealers ads here they push how if you have a job you can buy a car, and then they make sure to emphasise how you will have to pay it back!! I had never heard ads before that made sure you knew you had to pay it back.

I'm sure somebody probably bought a car, then refused to pay and took it to court saying they never said in their ad he had to pay it back and he probably won!

greedy and inconsiderate.
Or as quoted from a favorite movie.
INCONCEIVABLE!
You keep using that word. I do not think it means what you think it means. :bananinj :bananinj
- yeah, I love that movie, too!


Dan, that's just scary that they have to emphasize it! For the number of pages you have to sign for loan agreements, it's (yes Kerry, here's that word again...) inconceivable (:D) that anyone could claim that they didn't know. Granted, most people don't read the contracts, but if they sign 'em, it means they understand!

Nice motor ! one question: what type of sealant do you use between case halves ? I've heard everything from silicone to Loctite gasket maker...what is the best ? Frank.

Frank, we've had good luck with 3-bond 1104, same stuff we use on the cylinder bases ...

http://www.nrhsperformance.com/images/1104.jpg

wow you have any contests were the winner gets a full 88" treatment on his 86-to present Sportster or Buell? I guess there goes my taxes next year. actually I should be sending you my heads in like feb, march for a stage 2!!