View Full Version : Drag Bar/Riser/Grip Install


Sportster Girl
10th December 2005, 23:24
Drag Bar/Riser/Grip Install

I finished the project today and I would guess it took about 2 hours to complete.

Parts list:

Santee ‘Super Bar’ Drag bar, Custom Chrome part # 10018, 29” w x 2” rise x 5” pullback. About 50.00 custom ordered from J&P Cycle.

Risers: 4 1/2” pullback risers from Jireh, 17.95

Custom Chrome turn signal relocation kit, part # 3300270, J&P, 33.00

H-D chrome top clamp, part # 56567-86B, retail 35.00 (20% off!)

H-D Aileron grips, part # 56425-02, retail about 70.00, (again, 20% off)

H-D chrome top clamp screws part # 94453-05, 9.00 bucks, did not use because they were too long for the Jireh risers. Arrrrrrrrrrrrrh.

Lowe’s 5/16 x 18 x 1” allens (4) to replace above, about 2 bucks. (They’re black, so I might try to find some stainless or chrome ones to replace ‘em later)

The MANUAL

Here's the parts:

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/SportsterGirl1/parts.jpg

Here is a comparison shot between the stock buckhorn style and the Santee drag bar:

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/SportsterGirl1/bars.jpg

Install:

Covered tank with heavy towel, fender, etc. with rags

Cut tie wraps on bars

Removed mirrors

Removed turn signals, let them hang down

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/SportsterGirl1/sig.jpg

Loosen quite a bit, but do not remove riser mount bolts (3/4”)
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/SportsterGirl1/risbolts.jpg

Loosen and remove clutch lever clamp assembly (T27 Torx) USE AN IMPACT DRIVER!

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/SportsterGirl1/imp.jpg

If you do not have an impact driver, I strongly suggest you get one. Torx screws are notorious for stripping out. The impact driver I have is a Snap-On (about 36.00 wholesale) It’s a 3/8” drive. Just select the proper driver bit, insert it in the screw, and whack the impact driver with a hammer. Voila, screw is loose and you did not strip it out. It works 3 ways at once: First, pressure inwards on the head for good contact. Second, when whacked, the driver rotates the bit a little to loosen the screw. And lastly, of course, the impact itself helps loosen the screw.

Loosen and remove left switch housing (T25).

Loosen and remove brake lever clamp assembly (T27).

Refer to the manual. It will describe how to loosen the throttle cables to make removing the throttle grip easier. Loosen and remove (but do not take apart yet!) the throttle housing. I removed the housing, then put the screws back in it to hold it together.

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/SportsterGirl1/throt.jpg

Remove 4 top clamp screws. (1/4” allen?) Be careful! When clamp is loose enough, bar will drop down on tank if you are not holding it steady.

Remove top clamp, remove bar.

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/SportsterGirl1/barless.jpg

Completely loosen riser mount bolts, remove stock risers.

Mount new risers. I used the stock riser bolts. Make them almost snug, but not so tight that you can’t adjust them.

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/SportsterGirl1/ris1.jpg

Set bar in new risers and loosely install top clamp. Center the bar. Snug it tight enough for adjustment. Adjust for position.

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/SportsterGirl1/barriser.jpg

If you are satisfied with position of bar, tighten top clamp screws per manual.

Left grip:
Follow instructions that come with your new grips. Not difficult, just make sure wires are secure in bar dimple and not pinched. Align the tab on the housing with the clutch clamp. When set position is desired, tighten switch housing (35-45 INCH pounds) , then clutch clamp (60-80 INCH pounds).

Right grip:
More involved than the left, and the manual can explain it much better than I can. At this point I disassembled the right switch housing per the manual. As you’ve heard before, take special care with the brass ferrules. Just take your time and handle them carefully. Remove them from the throttle cables. Installation is just the reverse.

Take time now to position both the left and right controls for position. You might also want to re-position the bar again at this point.

Installed turn signal relocation kit. Easy. I used Loctite Blue on the threads to hold the signal in position.

Install mirrors.

Here’s a shot of the new Aileron grips:

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/SportsterGirl1/aileron.jpg

Test bike. Check all switches for proper operation. Start bike, check throttle cables and clutch.

Here ‘tis:

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/SportsterGirl1/fin1.jpg

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/SportsterGirl1/fin2.jpg

Have a beer.

Oh. And please excuse the garage. We’re completing a bike storage building (Sporty’s very own home!) and getting ready to store stuff for winter and it’s just a bit of a mess. We’re really not that nasty…..honest!

Strangely Brown
10th December 2005, 23:34
Looks great Sportster Girl! Job well done! :clap

xllent01
10th December 2005, 23:38
Very nicely done, pretty detailed explanation of the bar swap.
Hows the new bars compare to the old setup? Hope your liking
them cause any change is a good one. :tour

OldDen
10th December 2005, 23:51
Very nice job and nicely explained. Looks good too!

merc
11th December 2005, 00:01
lookin goog SG
and your instructions should be in the manual-easy to understand.

dooley
11th December 2005, 00:11
Good job SG.
Your garage isnt that bad.....Ive seen (and been responsible for) MUCH worse.:shhhh

xena
11th December 2005, 00:24
Good job Mel, definitely looks much better I just hope the reach isn't rough on you. You'll know after the first 30 minute ride. :)

GOTWA
11th December 2005, 00:44
Looks awesome Mel!!! So glad you finally were able to get this done. :clap

Great write up too!

Question (might have missed it in your post) but are you leaving the mirors off?

Sportster Girl
11th December 2005, 00:52
Thanks everyone!


I think I'll like it. When I get a decent day, I'll do a test ride. Seems ok, but like Xena said, I'll need a ride to tell for sure.

And yep, I put the mirrors on Erik. It's in the explanation somewhere there near the end. Those pics of the finished product didn't have 'em, but the shot with the grips did. I thought it looked pretty bitchin' without the mirrors....too bad ya need 'em.....would look nice....:smoke

xllent01, anything would be better than the stockers. My hands/arms are just not made for buckhorns. Totally wrong position for me. I'll know for sure after a nice, long test ride.

Thanks guys!

GOTWA
11th December 2005, 01:00
And yep, I put the mirrors on Erik. It's in the explanation somewhere there near the end. Those pics of the finished product didn't have 'em, but the shot with the grips did. I thought it looked pretty bitchin' without the mirrors....too bad ya need 'em.....would look nice....:smoke


Okay, got it. Didn't figure you for one to run without mirrors. Does look great without 'em but some things ya just gotta live with on a daily rider. Still looks awesome though. Have you been oggling her ever since ya got done? :D

xllent01
11th December 2005, 03:10
xllent01, anything would be better than the stockers. My hands/arms are just not made for buckhorns. Totally wrong position for me. I'll know for sure after a nice, long test ride.


I think the stockers are a torture device for the unknowing who
feel pain is part of the experience. People would be amazed how
a different bar and seat setup would put them into a whole new
position so they can ride for hrs at a time with no discomfort.
Heres hoping for sunny days so you can go test out your new setup.:banana

WinXP
11th December 2005, 13:04
SG the bike is looking good. The Santee Super Bar are nice, I put them on mine about 3 weeks ago. I am using the straight 4 1/2 risers an like the hand position. On my 4th set of bars , yup changed from buckhorns too.

calsport05
11th December 2005, 14:25
Bike looks great. Awesome job SG!! Great step by step instructions. Makes me think even I could do it!! I'll bet ya can't wait till your next ride so you can check um out. Let us know how the new bars work for ya.

gp9739
11th December 2005, 15:56
Make sure you replace those black oxide coated allen screws. They will rust.

GOTWA
11th December 2005, 16:17
Make sure you replace those black oxide coated allen screws. They will rust.

Good catch!

That's absolutely right Mel, they will rust. And in pretty short order.

Dubfire
11th December 2005, 16:18
Nice job, great pics and good step by step instructions. Hope they are comfortable when you go out for that test ride.

BTW I thought drag bars were the flat ones with a slight pull back like the stock ones on my 1200C. Shows how much I know:dunno .Just out of interest, what are they called?

Sportster Girl
11th December 2005, 16:41
Good catch!

That's absolutely right Mel, they will rust. And in pretty short order.

Roger that guys. I know, the ones I did the Xena speedo mount with are already starting to rust a little.

But it's a bummer when you're in the middle of a project and the parts you bought beforehand don't work! Very frustrating! 'Specially since Lowe's seems to not be able to stock stainless hardware.

I have one mom/pop store in town that 'sometimes' has what I need in stainless. If not, it'll be boltdepot.com.

Sportster Girl
11th December 2005, 16:44
Nice job, great pics and good step by step instructions. Hope they are comfortable when you go out for that test ride.

BTW I thought drag bars were the flat ones with a slight pull back like the stock ones on my 1200C. Shows how much I know:dunno .Just out of interest, what are they called?

No, you're right Dubfire. Drag bars are relatively flat, some even flat and straight across (broomstick). Some have a slight pullback but are flat with no rise.

These might 'technically' not be drag bars, since they have a slight rise, but I call 'em that because that's how I've seen them described.

Jeffytune
11th December 2005, 17:09
Hi SG.

First off, Nice job.
Second, I am surprised Lowels does not have stainless, but Home Depot does.
That is were I go the ones for my risers.

I would strongly suggest you put a set of Mirrors on though, It is important to know what is behind you.

Sportster Girl
11th December 2005, 17:12
Hi SG.

First off, Nice job.
Second, I am surprised Lowels does not have stainless, but Home Depot does.
That is were I go the ones for my risers.

I would strongly suggest you put a set of Mirrors on though, It is important to know what is behind you.

Thanks Jeff!

The mirrors are back on. I just shot a few pics before I put 'em on. Thought it looked really nice and clean!

DM-SC
11th December 2005, 18:30
Dang SG...U's so talented! :D

I agree that the buckhorn bars aren't meant for riding. I rode Paula's enough to know that I'd have toswap them out to ride her bike more than few miles at a time!

The scoot's a lookin' GOOD! :smoke

flskevin
11th December 2005, 18:42
Lookin' Good!

Moker
11th December 2005, 18:48
looks great sg :)

you ever thought about inverting your mirrors?

Sportster Girl
11th December 2005, 18:56
Thanks again everybody!

Update: Went for a ride today ( not a very long one, it's 43 degrees here and still ice on the shady places) and the bars are great! I need to tweak 'em just a bit, but the difference is amazing from the bucks.

Thanks for all the good words....:)

xena
11th December 2005, 19:28
Glad to hear it's comfy for ya! Now all ya need to do is swap out some of those old pics from six months ago with a few fresh, full on pics of the bike. :D

higgins14
11th December 2005, 20:03
looks great sg :)

you ever thought about inverting your mirrors?

why not give it a try and take a spin around the block?

small round bar end mirrors might look pretty cool,(and hopefully function well)

i can't beleive the temperature here in mass is about as warm as down south. i went for a 30 min ride today, it was beautifull... but all of the shiny spot of the roads were scary. i didn't want to push my luck for too long.

CntryFun
11th December 2005, 20:26
Looks great SG. I am definitely going to have to swap out my bars/grips sometime as well. That's a low priority at this time right now.

Great explanation and pics, its always good to see a nice tech. write-up.

P.S.... take those screws you bought that were too long back to H-D and I bet they'll swap them for the right length for ya. Keeps ya from spending more money on hardware.

Sportster Girl
11th December 2005, 21:07
looks great sg :)

you ever thought about inverting your mirrors?

Nah, I haven't. I guess I could try it and see how it goes....it might work out pretty well, who knows.....?

I'll let you know....:D

68B_Body
12th December 2005, 00:07
i like those bars. they are they style and dimensions i want to put on my bike but w/o the riser... i got buckhorns on my bike, they make me feel like im holding a wheel barrow. well described pictorals on what you have done. gj!

Sportster Girl
12th December 2005, 13:24
i like those bars. they are they style and dimensions i want to put on my bike but w/o the riser... i got buckhorns on my bike, they make me feel like im holding a wheel barrow. well described pictorals on what you have done. gj!


Thanks!

Wheelbarrow! THAT's the description I've been looking for! tHANKS 68B!

It's a nice bar, I really like the shape and dimensions. I needed the big riser cause I'm such a little shrimp and needed the reach.

I highly recommend it!

tooracer
18th September 2006, 01:53
Nicely done . I'm waiting parts to arrive to do a similar job . You didn't mention moving the instruments , this was the only part I had not fiqured out yet , I'll do the same .

Thanks

el jinete fantasma
21st September 2007, 05:06
Sportster Girl's instructions helped immensely! I wish I'd heeded her warning about the impact driver. Those Torx heads are the work of the Devil! :laugh