Sportster Girl
10th December 2005, 23:24
Drag Bar/Riser/Grip Install
I finished the project today and I would guess it took about 2 hours to complete.
Parts list:
Santee ‘Super Bar’ Drag bar, Custom Chrome part # 10018, 29” w x 2” rise x 5” pullback. About 50.00 custom ordered from J&P Cycle.
Risers: 4 1/2” pullback risers from Jireh, 17.95
Custom Chrome turn signal relocation kit, part # 3300270, J&P, 33.00
H-D chrome top clamp, part # 56567-86B, retail 35.00 (20% off!)
H-D Aileron grips, part # 56425-02, retail about 70.00, (again, 20% off)
H-D chrome top clamp screws part # 94453-05, 9.00 bucks, did not use because they were too long for the Jireh risers. Arrrrrrrrrrrrrh.
Lowe’s 5/16 x 18 x 1” allens (4) to replace above, about 2 bucks. (They’re black, so I might try to find some stainless or chrome ones to replace ‘em later)
The MANUAL
Here's the parts:
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/SportsterGirl1/parts.jpg
Here is a comparison shot between the stock buckhorn style and the Santee drag bar:
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/SportsterGirl1/bars.jpg
Install:
Covered tank with heavy towel, fender, etc. with rags
Cut tie wraps on bars
Removed mirrors
Removed turn signals, let them hang down
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/SportsterGirl1/sig.jpg
Loosen quite a bit, but do not remove riser mount bolts (3/4”)
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/SportsterGirl1/risbolts.jpg
Loosen and remove clutch lever clamp assembly (T27 Torx) USE AN IMPACT DRIVER!
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/SportsterGirl1/imp.jpg
If you do not have an impact driver, I strongly suggest you get one. Torx screws are notorious for stripping out. The impact driver I have is a Snap-On (about 36.00 wholesale) It’s a 3/8” drive. Just select the proper driver bit, insert it in the screw, and whack the impact driver with a hammer. Voila, screw is loose and you did not strip it out. It works 3 ways at once: First, pressure inwards on the head for good contact. Second, when whacked, the driver rotates the bit a little to loosen the screw. And lastly, of course, the impact itself helps loosen the screw.
Loosen and remove left switch housing (T25).
Loosen and remove brake lever clamp assembly (T27).
Refer to the manual. It will describe how to loosen the throttle cables to make removing the throttle grip easier. Loosen and remove (but do not take apart yet!) the throttle housing. I removed the housing, then put the screws back in it to hold it together.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/SportsterGirl1/throt.jpg
Remove 4 top clamp screws. (1/4” allen?) Be careful! When clamp is loose enough, bar will drop down on tank if you are not holding it steady.
Remove top clamp, remove bar.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/SportsterGirl1/barless.jpg
Completely loosen riser mount bolts, remove stock risers.
Mount new risers. I used the stock riser bolts. Make them almost snug, but not so tight that you can’t adjust them.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/SportsterGirl1/ris1.jpg
Set bar in new risers and loosely install top clamp. Center the bar. Snug it tight enough for adjustment. Adjust for position.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/SportsterGirl1/barriser.jpg
If you are satisfied with position of bar, tighten top clamp screws per manual.
Left grip:
Follow instructions that come with your new grips. Not difficult, just make sure wires are secure in bar dimple and not pinched. Align the tab on the housing with the clutch clamp. When set position is desired, tighten switch housing (35-45 INCH pounds) , then clutch clamp (60-80 INCH pounds).
Right grip:
More involved than the left, and the manual can explain it much better than I can. At this point I disassembled the right switch housing per the manual. As you’ve heard before, take special care with the brass ferrules. Just take your time and handle them carefully. Remove them from the throttle cables. Installation is just the reverse.
Take time now to position both the left and right controls for position. You might also want to re-position the bar again at this point.
Installed turn signal relocation kit. Easy. I used Loctite Blue on the threads to hold the signal in position.
Install mirrors.
Here’s a shot of the new Aileron grips:
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/SportsterGirl1/aileron.jpg
Test bike. Check all switches for proper operation. Start bike, check throttle cables and clutch.
Here ‘tis:
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/SportsterGirl1/fin1.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/SportsterGirl1/fin2.jpg
Have a beer.
Oh. And please excuse the garage. We’re completing a bike storage building (Sporty’s very own home!) and getting ready to store stuff for winter and it’s just a bit of a mess. We’re really not that nasty…..honest!
I finished the project today and I would guess it took about 2 hours to complete.
Parts list:
Santee ‘Super Bar’ Drag bar, Custom Chrome part # 10018, 29” w x 2” rise x 5” pullback. About 50.00 custom ordered from J&P Cycle.
Risers: 4 1/2” pullback risers from Jireh, 17.95
Custom Chrome turn signal relocation kit, part # 3300270, J&P, 33.00
H-D chrome top clamp, part # 56567-86B, retail 35.00 (20% off!)
H-D Aileron grips, part # 56425-02, retail about 70.00, (again, 20% off)
H-D chrome top clamp screws part # 94453-05, 9.00 bucks, did not use because they were too long for the Jireh risers. Arrrrrrrrrrrrrh.
Lowe’s 5/16 x 18 x 1” allens (4) to replace above, about 2 bucks. (They’re black, so I might try to find some stainless or chrome ones to replace ‘em later)
The MANUAL
Here's the parts:
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/SportsterGirl1/parts.jpg
Here is a comparison shot between the stock buckhorn style and the Santee drag bar:
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/SportsterGirl1/bars.jpg
Install:
Covered tank with heavy towel, fender, etc. with rags
Cut tie wraps on bars
Removed mirrors
Removed turn signals, let them hang down
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/SportsterGirl1/sig.jpg
Loosen quite a bit, but do not remove riser mount bolts (3/4”)
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/SportsterGirl1/risbolts.jpg
Loosen and remove clutch lever clamp assembly (T27 Torx) USE AN IMPACT DRIVER!
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/SportsterGirl1/imp.jpg
If you do not have an impact driver, I strongly suggest you get one. Torx screws are notorious for stripping out. The impact driver I have is a Snap-On (about 36.00 wholesale) It’s a 3/8” drive. Just select the proper driver bit, insert it in the screw, and whack the impact driver with a hammer. Voila, screw is loose and you did not strip it out. It works 3 ways at once: First, pressure inwards on the head for good contact. Second, when whacked, the driver rotates the bit a little to loosen the screw. And lastly, of course, the impact itself helps loosen the screw.
Loosen and remove left switch housing (T25).
Loosen and remove brake lever clamp assembly (T27).
Refer to the manual. It will describe how to loosen the throttle cables to make removing the throttle grip easier. Loosen and remove (but do not take apart yet!) the throttle housing. I removed the housing, then put the screws back in it to hold it together.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/SportsterGirl1/throt.jpg
Remove 4 top clamp screws. (1/4” allen?) Be careful! When clamp is loose enough, bar will drop down on tank if you are not holding it steady.
Remove top clamp, remove bar.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/SportsterGirl1/barless.jpg
Completely loosen riser mount bolts, remove stock risers.
Mount new risers. I used the stock riser bolts. Make them almost snug, but not so tight that you can’t adjust them.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/SportsterGirl1/ris1.jpg
Set bar in new risers and loosely install top clamp. Center the bar. Snug it tight enough for adjustment. Adjust for position.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/SportsterGirl1/barriser.jpg
If you are satisfied with position of bar, tighten top clamp screws per manual.
Left grip:
Follow instructions that come with your new grips. Not difficult, just make sure wires are secure in bar dimple and not pinched. Align the tab on the housing with the clutch clamp. When set position is desired, tighten switch housing (35-45 INCH pounds) , then clutch clamp (60-80 INCH pounds).
Right grip:
More involved than the left, and the manual can explain it much better than I can. At this point I disassembled the right switch housing per the manual. As you’ve heard before, take special care with the brass ferrules. Just take your time and handle them carefully. Remove them from the throttle cables. Installation is just the reverse.
Take time now to position both the left and right controls for position. You might also want to re-position the bar again at this point.
Installed turn signal relocation kit. Easy. I used Loctite Blue on the threads to hold the signal in position.
Install mirrors.
Here’s a shot of the new Aileron grips:
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/SportsterGirl1/aileron.jpg
Test bike. Check all switches for proper operation. Start bike, check throttle cables and clutch.
Here ‘tis:
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/SportsterGirl1/fin1.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/SportsterGirl1/fin2.jpg
Have a beer.
Oh. And please excuse the garage. We’re completing a bike storage building (Sporty’s very own home!) and getting ready to store stuff for winter and it’s just a bit of a mess. We’re really not that nasty…..honest!