:banana I'm going to pick up a motorcycle lift today so I can start my project. I want to be able to sit while working on the engine.
My first tasks will be to install the SE cam set I have on hand as well as some bling-bling.
I just received confirmation that I was the high bidder on a new, Garrett VNT25 turbo with carbon seal. I can start fabrication of flanges as soon as I have it in my possession. The flanges on that model were specific to Chrysler cars so a T3 flange etc. will not fit. Actually, three bolts will line up but not the fourth.
I'm following the two threads on turbos with great interest.

Good luck with your project.

Post pictures and descriptions of your work.

I'm sure there are a lot of people here interested in this type of mod.

Sounds like she's gonna scream when you're done!

good luck Hondo with your project.
And like RedRider said-post pics as you go along.

:banana
Here is the thread that started it all:
http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/showthread.php?t=17688
Here are a couple of links that are my inspiration:
http://www.muddyjeep.com/turbo_update.htm
http://www.dakineng.com/home/home.html
Sam has a spare Y-pipe that I'm considering buying, it will save much fabrication time. He also has designed an intake manifold that is more turbo friendly.
It's been confirmed that I had the high bid for the turbo and I have my "paid" receipt. As soon as I receive it I can fabricate the turbine inlet flange, it all starts there.
At a minimum I'm going to send my cylinders out for boring to the first oversize to true them up and order a set of forged, dished pistons. The stock cylinders are heat cycled and as dimensionally stable as they are going to get.
Meanwhile, the lift is in the garage and the cam set change is next.

Sounds like you got a heck of a project going!!!!

Keep us posted!!:D

I've been interested in the practical application of turbochargers ever since owning a turbocharged Honda CX500. I have never riden a CX650 but it probably had more low end.
One reason I chose the "noisey" SE cam set was because of its minimal valve overlap and more agressive cam profile when compared with the stock cam set . No reason to let the boost out during the valve overlap period, plus I want decent performace when off the boost.
My recipe at this stage, lets see, stage 1 1/2+ is as follows:
1.) First overbore with a tight quench and a recessed domed to match the combustion chamber. I'll be calling NRHS on this. Ive seen 30 degree dome JE sportster pistons with DEEP valve pockets meaning a thick piston top. Cut down the dome a little and connect the valve reliefs inside the dome and now the combustion chamber is partially inside the piston top.
Tight quench to minimize detonation.
Lower compression allows more boost. :roflblack
2.) If the money is there NRHS head work i.e. porting. If not, then machining the heads to match the piston domes and a quality chamber and valve job.
3.) SE 0.551" lift cam set.
3.) Stock carburetor to start with, in a draw through system, the K.I.S.S principle untill I need more power. Then I've seen someone who takes the CV carburetors, removes the slide, adds an annular booster from the automotive performance community and turns it into throttle valve carburetor.
Picture a single barrel Holley.
What's cool is that a turbo will add power at each of the traditional stages of hop-up, only more so. No need to rev it to the moon, just turn up the boost!

Sound awesome. I will be following your project with great interest.

I assembled the lift yesterday and left it in the high position without any weight or the lock pin. The hydraulic system held pressure, no loss in the tables height over 24 hours. I bought the lift here http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/ simply because it was within easy driving distance. Scroll down to this unit: SBL 800 - HT1001

Good luck Hondo, that is going to be one fun project.

Okay, I've got to charge up the camara batteries! I received the turbo today and is it heavy! :frownthre
Luckily the very heavy factory cast iron exhaust outlet can be removed and a flange with tubing bolted up.
20.5 lbs is what this thing weighs as is! :frownthre
First change of plans, not the ultimate result but the achievement there of.
The VNT25 turbo has the outlet positioned a little differently than this one.
http://www.muddyjeep.com/turbo_update.htm
I was seriously considering using a exhaust manifold from Sam http://www.dakineng.com/home/home.html but I'm going to need to move this turbo a little bit from where they have theirs mounted.
So, I've got to find someone with a tubing bender that will bend one-off pipes from patterns.
Also, this turbo has a mounting ear aside from the inlet flange mounting so I want to incorporate that mounting ear in tying the turbo to the engine. This way the exhaust pipes are not the only support. Did I say that this turbo is heavy? :frownthre
Pictures tonight!

This link will get to my picture gallery.
http://xlforum.net/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=2325

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The turbo weighs 16.5lbs now after removing the turbine exhaust elbow.
I've ordered a Mityvac vacuum/pressure pump to test the factory vane actuator settings. I'm building a temporary support for the turbo so I can roughly route the exhaust tubing while I'm waiting for the turbine inlet and exit flanges to arrive. Also I have to "clock" the turbine and compressor housings for my project.

Thanks for the update Hondo - looks pretty ambitious!

Fun and games! :censor
To clock, that is rotate the housings on this turbo requires re-drilling the compressor housing. Not a big deal but to take the compressor housing off requires a huge, 90 degree bent tip, internal circlip plier. Ordered! The oil drain fitting was hard to find but I have a NOS one on hand now. I might as well get the turbine and compressor housings coated while the turbo is apart.

Good Luck Hondo .... Well, I'm happy the post inspired you! :)

Ron,

:banana I'm going to pick up a motorcycle lift today so I can start my project. I want to be able to sit while working on the engine.
My first tasks will be to install the SE cam set I have on hand as well as some bling-bling.
I just received confirmation that I was the high bidder on a new, Garrett VNT25 turbo with carbon seal. I can start fabrication of flanges as soon as I have it in my possession. The flanges on that model were specific to Chrysler cars so a T3 flange etc. will not fit. Actually, three bolts will line up but not the fourth.
I'm following the two threads on turbos with great interest.
easy as pie Hondo, pm me some info and I'll help ya out anyway I can.
wanna see my newest set up? should be ready to start today maybe tomorrow, depends on how lazy I am today.
www.muddyjeep.com/turbo_update.htm
http://www.muddyjeep.com/images/set_up_complete.JPG

also, make sure its got the carbon seal, its way important on a drawthrough config. thats what toasted my first turbo, gt15, no C seal. DOH!

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cool, you can even ditch the heavy cast o2 housing and make a D-pipe thats much lighter out of mandrel bend 2.25"

I finally received the internal c-clip pliers, NICE tools imported from England. I could find nothing domestic that compares to these. I've got to copy some ignition maps saturday then finish taking the turbo apart.
This turbo's shaft is tight!!!!! No feeling of rubbing anywhere though. I believe I read somewhere that a turbo with a carbon seal has more resistance to rotation than one with a dynamic seal. Anyway, that is one reason why I want to pull off the compressor housing to inspect for clearance issues. This is a brand new turbo but I just might send the center section to a repair shop to make sure it is not to tight.

I finally received the internal c-clip pliers, NICE tools imported from England. I could find nothing domestic that compares to these. I've got to copy some ignition maps saturday then finish taking the turbo apart.
This turbo's shaft is tight!!!!! No feeling of rubbing anywhere though. I believe I read somewhere that a turbo with a carbon seal has more resistance to rotation than one with a dynamic seal. Anyway, that is one reason why I want to pull off the compressor housing to inspect for clearance issues. This is a brand new turbo but I just might send the center section to a repair shop to make sure it is not to tight.
I belive you are correct, the WI turbo (carbon seal) is tighter feeling than the Garrett GT15 I used on the first kit go 'round.
I have a dedicated oiling system for the turbo, and it averages about 30 -60# pressure, when the oil heats up, it drops to the 30# range and when i turn the bike off and let it sit for a few hours, the oil system guage will show 5 -7# static pressure, it doesnt ever seep through like the other turbo . thats one tight turbo:p

The center section is in my hands, no signs of rubbing on the compressor housing. I've got the phone numbers for a couple of repair shops that are supposed to be familiar with these VNT turbos so I'll call them in the morning and find out just how much resistance to rotation is normal. I've got an assortment of pre-bent exhaust elbows ordered and should be able to mock-up the exhaust header next week.
:clap