View Full Version : 500 mile first change. Water came out first.
GnFishn 16th January 2006, 23:08 I just changed my oil yesterday @ 570 miles and when I drained the old oil, some water drained out first followed by "new" oil and then the "used" oil came out. Is this unusual? Although this change is not required and I didn't do it on my 04, I've had the bike a month and the weather has been really cold then really warm. The bike is ridden about 6 miles o/w to and from work and I wonder if this is causing condensation. Too, I wonder if it's cause for concern?:feedbackThanks.
Bob
Krayven Sumhead 17th January 2006, 12:28 Yup, I'd say you are dealing with condensation especially if the weather is cold and you are only riding it six miles. Not enough time for the oil to warm and burn off the water.......Better start taking the long way to work. Did you notice any foam?
streeteagle2 17th January 2006, 13:21 About how much water, & was it mostly clear or milky? Also, I'm not following "old" oil followed by "new" oil-it's 7 a.m., not quite awake yet.
GnFishn 17th January 2006, 17:25 Old oil refers to the original oil that apparently had not circulated and was in the drain hose above the water. Water (heavier than oil) came out first and was clear followed by what appeared to be original oil that had never been circulated in the engine and looked clear and unused as if it came right out of the bottle. No foaming has been observed. Too, the used oil didn't look bad although with only 570 miles on it it shouldn't look bad. The only reason that I changed it was that HD used to recommend 500 mile break-in oil changes. Paranoia on my part I suppose. Just trying to be careful.
xl1200r 17th January 2006, 17:40 Those short trips are going to be killer, warm or cold outside. At least there was no foaming. If there was, then that water would have spent some time in the engine and if it sits for any amount of time in there it can ruin the bearings.
We have a tractor at the shop that almost never gets run for more than 5 minutes at a time. The oil changes are awful because it's ALL foam comming out. But it's okay since it's a Massey-Furguson. She'll kepp truckin' for a long time.
Kev M 17th January 2006, 18:40 Now I realize you guys are talking engine oil, but as I said in my recent thread "SIL Treats Her Sporty Like Crap" I've been dealing with the results of too many short trips and storing it outside where it's getting heavy temperature swings. But in her case, it's the primary case/transmission.
Took me 2 full additional oil changes, with 100 mile or so runs in between to flush out all the condensation and contaminated oil from her gearcase!
So if you haven't already, check that trans fluid too!
Kev
GnFishn 17th January 2006, 19:37 Now I realize you guys are talking engine oil, but as I said in my recent thread "SIL Treats Her Sporty Like Crap" I've been dealing with the results of too many short trips and storing it outside where it's getting heavy temperature swings. But in her case, it's the primary case/transmission.
Took me 2 full additional oil changes, with 100 mile or so runs in between to flush out all the condensation and contaminated oil from her gearcase!
So if you haven't already, check that trans fluid too!
KevThanks, Kev.
jag1 17th January 2006, 20:37 I also travel about 6 miles to work. But, on the way home I always make sure I take the long way to burn any condensation off. Short trips are killers for motors. Also, at around 1,000 switch to synthetic it protects better from condensation.
GnFishn 18th January 2006, 13:52 I also travel about 6 miles to work. But, on the way home I always make sure I take the long way to burn any condensation off. Short trips are killers for motors. Also, at around 1,000 switch to synthetic it protects better from condensation.By the time I get off the temps are higher and traffic is less so I can go a little faster and the engine warms up more. I will switch to Mobil 1 @ 1K but I'm puzzled as to why there was some uncirculated oil on top of the water. It appears to me that the water had settled in the drain hose and unused oil on top of that meaning that the water was not circulating in the engine oil. Why else would there be uncirculated oil in the drain hose?
Kev M 18th January 2006, 15:26 It appears to me that the water had settled in the drain hose and unused oil on top of that meaning that the water was not circulating in the engine oil. Why else would there be uncirculated oil in the drain hose?
Just a SWAG, but I'm thinking the amount of water and uncirculated oil was probably pretty small. We're just talking about some oil/water that settled in the drain hose that's all. At least that's my guess. I certainly wouldn't loose sleep over it.
cyn 18th January 2006, 17:01 I also ride about 8 miles to work one way on most days unless it is pouring rain. I also warm it up as I am getting my helmet and gloves on; I have changed it to syn at the 10,000 mile service and right now have about 10,700 on it. I know its better using the syn rather than regular but how much better does it protect in these riding conditions? I don't always have time to take the long way, but it is my only ride (which is the way I like it). Is there anything else I can do to protect it? Thanks in advance.
Bill2 18th January 2006, 17:07 If you don't have a oil temp cap for your oil tank get one. It will show you how long it takes for the oil/engine to get up to temp. Mine takes about 20 miles, just leave 10 or 15 mins early and enjoy a little longer ride to work in the mornings.
GnFishn 18th January 2006, 17:15 Kev,
Would you suggest opening the drain hose monthly during the winter to see if the condensation continues so it can be drained off? Or....as you said, don't lose sleep over it?
Bob
jag1 18th January 2006, 18:59 surf around on this site there is alot of info on synthetics.http://bestsyntheticoil.com/amsoil/oil-contamination.shtml
jag1 18th January 2006, 19:03 I also ride about 8 miles to work one way on most days unless it is pouring rain. I also warm it up as I am getting my helmet and gloves on; I have changed it to syn at the 10,000 mile service and right now have about 10,700 on it. I know its better using the syn rather than regular but how much better does it protect in these riding conditions? I don't always have time to take the long way, but it is my only ride (which is the way I like it). Is there anything else I can do to protect it? Thanks in advance.
You don't have to take the long way everyday you ride. Just get out once or twice a week and go for a nice long ride.
GnFishn 18th January 2006, 19:32 If you don't have a oil temp cap for your oil tank get one. It will show you how long it takes for the oil/engine to get up to temp. Mine takes about 20 miles, just leave 10 or 15 mins early and enjoy a little longer ride to work in the mornings.After a 6 mile ride in 20* temps my oil is about 125*. Arriving home in 40*+ it reads about 145*.
Kev M 18th January 2006, 21:05 Kev,
Would you suggest opening the drain hose monthly during the winter to see if the condensation continues so it can be drained off? Or....as you said, don't lose sleep over it?
Bob
Don't loose sleep over it.
90+% of the oil is getting circulated, and probably up to temperature so the water boils off. What little is left is settling into the hose. If the rest of the oil was contaminated, it would become milky or chunky, THEN you'd have to worry.
My main ride is a Moto Guzzi which really overcools itself in the winter. The oil in the pan (it's not a dry sump) gets up to temp. Heck the cylinder heads get up to temp, but the VALVE COVERS stay COLD no matter what I do. When I pull the covers mid-winter (if I need to do a valve adjustment check) the ENTIRE underside of the covers is normally covered with this tan/gray rhinocerous smegma of emulsified Mobil 1! I cleaned it out last year, but I'm sure more formed. By spring when I pulled the covers again, there were no traces of any emulsified oil.
I'm more concerned with the transmission/primary case (as evidenced by my SILs abuse). Though I suspect it takes probably a thousand miles and a year of short heating/cooling cycles to form that much moisture in there.
Check your oil from time-to-time. If it starts to look milky. THEN change it. But I HIGHLY doubt it will ever happen in the engine oil tank unless it's exposed to some ridiculous conditions.
If you ever see it in your gearcase oil, then check THAT more often.
Kev
Kev M 18th January 2006, 21:06 You don't have to take the long way everyday you ride. Just get out once or twice a week and go for a nice long ride.
Exactly, that's GOOD ADVICE!
K
cyn 18th January 2006, 22:58 You don't have to take the long way everyday you ride. Just get out once or twice a week and go for a nice long ride.
Like I said I ride everyday and take a good spin on the weekends. I have talked to a couple of mechanics since this thread and they have told me the same as this. I just got a little concerned when I read the post.
Not trying to highjack the thread GnFishn:)
GnFishn 19th January 2006, 17:15 Like I said I ride everyday and take a good spin on the weekends. I have talked to a couple of mechanics since this thread and they have told me the same as this. I just got a little concerned when I read the post.
Not trying to highjack the thread GnFishn:)I never took it that way at all. Everyone is welcome to contribute to this as its good to share knowledge. Thanks for the input though. No offense taken at all.:D
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