chachi
24th January 2006, 18:09
Hiya boys, I'm back.
So all of the help you guys have given me to date
has been bang on the money. I'll start with
reporting what I've found and fixed and move on
to my question.
I started with no brake light and no left running
light and no turnsignals. Bulbs were brand new
so that wasn't the problem.
1. Fixed the running light by crossing the wires to
the turnsignal they were wired backwards when I
bought it.
1b. Later found that the back tire had been rubbing
the wires under the fender so although it wasn't the
cause yet it soon would have been if I didn't catch it
and re-run them.
2. Fixed the turnsignals by replacing the relay in the
headlamp
3. Fixed the front brake light by tracing the red wire
from the front of the bike to the back and found a
split wire. soldering it fixed that.
4. After much pocking and proding with my trusty
VU Meter found that the resistance on the bulb is
2 Ohm and the risistance coming from the rear switch
is over 50 Ohm.
My question.
1. That means my rear switch is fubar and needs to
be replaced right?
2. Because it seems to be a hydralic switch, How hard
is it to replace myself?
3. If it's something I shouldn't be doing myself as I'm
a REAL NOVICE in the way of wrenching how much
should I expect to pay to have it replaced? ie How long
would it take the dealer to fix.
Thanks again.
chachi
PS
I have more to report so stay posted :) Got a Chrome
oil tank amd shorter shocks to install and I think My
float bowl valve is gumed up because it pisses fuel
when I turn the pet cock on. grumble grumble grumble.
I bought a new gasket and will be fixing that soon. I'll
let you know how it goes.
So all of the help you guys have given me to date
has been bang on the money. I'll start with
reporting what I've found and fixed and move on
to my question.
I started with no brake light and no left running
light and no turnsignals. Bulbs were brand new
so that wasn't the problem.
1. Fixed the running light by crossing the wires to
the turnsignal they were wired backwards when I
bought it.
1b. Later found that the back tire had been rubbing
the wires under the fender so although it wasn't the
cause yet it soon would have been if I didn't catch it
and re-run them.
2. Fixed the turnsignals by replacing the relay in the
headlamp
3. Fixed the front brake light by tracing the red wire
from the front of the bike to the back and found a
split wire. soldering it fixed that.
4. After much pocking and proding with my trusty
VU Meter found that the resistance on the bulb is
2 Ohm and the risistance coming from the rear switch
is over 50 Ohm.
My question.
1. That means my rear switch is fubar and needs to
be replaced right?
2. Because it seems to be a hydralic switch, How hard
is it to replace myself?
3. If it's something I shouldn't be doing myself as I'm
a REAL NOVICE in the way of wrenching how much
should I expect to pay to have it replaced? ie How long
would it take the dealer to fix.
Thanks again.
chachi
PS
I have more to report so stay posted :) Got a Chrome
oil tank amd shorter shocks to install and I think My
float bowl valve is gumed up because it pisses fuel
when I turn the pet cock on. grumble grumble grumble.
I bought a new gasket and will be fixing that soon. I'll
let you know how it goes.