View Full Version : Installing Fog / Running Lights....wiring questions - need your help!
lthj75 6th February 2006, 19:41 Ok, I have the tank off the bike (2005 1200C) and I am planning out the wiring of the lighting system. I plan to mount the fog lights to the engine guard and I'm using the Kuryakyn Wiring Harness.
My questions are:
1) Before the relay & switch, there are 2 ground wires and one hot wire. Obviously, I route the hot wire to the positive battery terminal. What are my options for the 2 ground wires? Is going right to the negative battery terminal the best bet? What would you suggest?
2) There are 2 ground wires after the switch.....one for each light connection. I was thinking of cutting the existing clip off each, installing a ring terminal on each and connecting them to the frame behind the tank bolt. Would that be a sufficient ground connection?
3) I planned to route the hot wire for the switch to the horn wire for power - no issues with that, right?
Anything else I should consider? Thanks in advance!
Moker 6th February 2006, 19:53 you do know, there's an open slot (spare) in the fuse holder.
lthj75 6th February 2006, 19:58 you do know, there's an open slot (spare) in the fuse holder.
Meaning I can run the main hot wire (the one before the relay) directly to the fuse box? What is involved in doing that?
Moker 6th February 2006, 20:04 i haven't take apart the fuse box, so i'm not sure if it already is pre-wired or what's needed. maybe someone who's dug into that area can offer some advice.
anyone?
on my bike, if i'm looking at the fuse box, the lower right fuse is the spare.
i think i got the info from the owners manual, so you could check there on yours to verify.
lthj75 6th February 2006, 20:08 i haven't take apart the fuse box, so i'm not sure if it already is pre-wired or what's needed. maybe someone who's dug into that area can offer some advice.
anyone?
on my bike, if i'm looking at the fuse box, the lower right fuse is the spare.
i think i got the info from the owners manual, so you could check there on yours to verify.
Good to know as another option for the hot wire.....
I still have my questions about grounding if anyone can help out.....thanks!
avnsteve 6th February 2006, 21:07 I'd leave the horn alone, I wired up some "wally world" automotive foglamps and powered them from the horn, and it caused my horn to go weak, in that I hardly made a sound, and I confirmed this by removing the lamps from that circuit and the horn was loud again.
lthj75 6th February 2006, 22:02 I'd leave the horn alone, I wired up some "wally world" automotive foglamps and powered them from the horn, and it caused my horn to go weak, in that I hardly made a sound, and I confirmed this by removing the lamps from that circuit and the horn was loud again.
What did you wire them to then?
MrHappy 6th February 2006, 22:26 I'd leave the horn alone, I wired up some "wally world" automotive foglamps and powered them from the horn, and it caused my horn to go weak, in that I hardly made a sound, and I confirmed this by removing the lamps from that circuit and the horn was loud again.
Sounds like you wired it in series instead of paralel
lthj75 6th February 2006, 22:31 Sounds like you wired it in series instead of paralel
I'm an electrical n00b.....what does that mean in english? ;)
MrHappy 7th February 2006, 00:34 I'm an electrical n00b.....what does that mean in english? ;)
Im bad at explanations so i found this link (See the diagrams)
http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/seriespa.htm
basically if you wire in series the voltage of the circuit is divided among the loads in the circuit
where as in parallel each load in the circuit gets full voltage
lthj75 7th February 2006, 01:27 Im bad at explanations so i found this link (See the diagrams)
http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/seriespa.htm
basically if you wire in series the voltage of the circuit is divided among the loads in the circuit
where as in parallel each load in the circuit gets full voltage
Hmmmm.....I understand the concept - not certain how to implement it. I have 1 hot wire to power the switch. That is the one I planned to splice into the horn wire.
I think 'avnsteve' might have wired his lights DIRECTLY to the horn ciruit. I am using a switched wiring harness and the relay power would come directly from the battery. The only power line on the horn circuit would be the switch power. I think that would that mean I'm ok.....I'm assuming wiring the switch to the horn circuit wouldn't drain the power to the horn. Right?
How about the grounding I mentioned.....would the tank bolt be sufficient for the 2 ground wire from the lamps?
olderthandirt 7th February 2006, 01:37 I would think any body ground that is solid would work
Shu 7th February 2006, 01:40 Take a look in the Intake Exhaust section for my thread on installing the NOS system. I think the wiring diagram in there may be helpful as it uses a relay and switch.
Ground? I'd try to ground back to the battery it at all possible, however any ground to the frame would work, just make sure you remove the paint from that area or use a star washer to cut the paint as you tighten it down.
On the pre '04 bikes (actually 2001 to 2003 for sure) they have a gas tank ground that mounts under the front of the seat to the backbone. You could ground to that, but since you are so close to the battery, why not just go there?
MrHappy 7th February 2006, 01:52 [quote=lthj75]
I think 'avnsteve' might have wired his lights DIRECTLY to the horn ciruit. I am using a switched wiring harness and the relay power would come directly from the battery. The only power line on the horn circuit would be the switch power. I think that would that mean I'm ok.....I'm assuming wiring the switch to the horn circuit wouldn't drain the power to the horn. Right?
quote]
as long as you wire the hot side (Of the horn) to the hot side (of the lamp)
If you wired the hot side of the lamp to the ground side of the horn then you'd have a problem (that would be in series)
sorry if i made this more confusing than it started out
BTW Grounding to the frame is fine as long as you have good metal to metal contact
lthj75 7th February 2006, 02:30 as long as you wire the hot side (Of the horn) to the hot side (of the lamp)
If you wired the hot side of the lamp to the ground side of the horn then you'd have a problem (that would be in series)
Gotcha.....sorry for asking so many questions! Just want to confirm, so hot wire horn (yellow wire) to hot wires on the lamps is ok and the horn should work fine?
MrHappy 7th February 2006, 03:04 Gotcha.....sorry for asking so many questions! Just want to confirm, so hot wire horn (yellow wire) to hot wires on the lamps is ok and the horn should work fine?
should be good
lthj75 7th February 2006, 03:23 should be good
Thanks for all of your time and advice. I think I'm all set. Here we go....
1) Fused hot wire to relay directly from battery positive terminal
2) Ground wire from negative battery to relay
3) Lamp hot wires from relay to Lamps
4) Lamp ground wires from relay to tank bolt
5) Hot wire for switch power to horn hot wire for auxilary power (lights go off with key)
With this set-up the power for the lights comes directly from the battery and the switch power come from the horn.
And that is my final answer! :clap
smiley_79906 3rd August 2007, 03:51 Need help. What kind of relay, or is there an actual harness I can get? Please help!!!
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