I've read my manual 10 times but still come away with the same question.

Manual for static timing = Do dynamic timing first, then losen the nose cone module. Get front cylinder to TDC and twist module until LED comes on.

Manual for dynamic timing = Use timing light to get timing marks to line up when viewed through the inspection hole by, you guessed it, twisting the module.

Now my question is, if you use the timing light to set the dynamic timing, why do you need to mess with setting the static timing?

I thought it was kinda one or the other, with the dynamic being the most accurate and the static being a "Quick fix".

FYI - here's what I'm up to. My bike was running fine, I pulled the nose cone module when I changed cams the first time and think (think is the operative word) I put it back in the same place. Running fine. I was running rich with my CV so I just put on a Mikuni. At the end of the first ride of about 35 miles, I think I heard very, very slight detonation during WOT roll-on. Not a big prob so far.

Now, I have a NRHS top end coming next week with .536 cams and 10.5 CR. I also have a Daytona TC88 to install after the break-in period. I don't want to take my bike in for a $250 tune-up now, only to have everything change with my new mods. I plan a complete dyno-tune after break-in to dial it in.

I just want to get everything stable before the mods so I know any probs can be traced to the mods and corrected. Also, I don't want to screw up with this much $$$ on the line. So, I just wanted to check the static timing but am totally confused.

Thoughts, please.

Guys...Nothing?

OK, now my own manual has two pages missing (guess which 2?) :doh

However, under the Cam Position Sensor and Rotor, it DOES state that if a new CPS was installed, then static time...otherwise go on to dynamic timing...

I would say that if she times out ok dynamically, there's little to worry about....What you may have been hearing wasn't detonation at all???

Hope you get a more knowledgeable answer, but this is the best I can find for you....

also, check your VOES....

My problem is that I don't have a timing light so I was just going to do a "Static" timing set. Until I understand it more, I really don't want to mess with anything.

The manual sounds a little funky having you do the dynamic timing first then static timing. Static timing is to get you in the ballpark with proper timing so that you can start it and it will run. Dynamic is used after it is running to set the timing accurately. If you don't have a timing light, use the static timing to get it running then if you are detecting ping, retard it a little bit till it quits. However I would suggest borrowing or investing in a timing light to set it accurately. Hope this helps, Roger.

Manual for static timing = Do dynamic timing first, then losen the nose cone module. Get front cylinder to TDC and twist module until LED comes on.

Do dynamic timing first could be a misprint , I belive static timing is
the first step you use as a starting point ( to get it started if
you've had it torn apart , ect. ) then you use the light for a more
accurate setting

Shamdog,

Yes static to get you close and dynamic to fine tune
or to change it from the stock setting. You may have to
vary it due to the work you are doing.

If it already runs no need to do the static.

BTW I have a timing light if you need to borrow it.

dec

All -

Yea...That's what I thought. Glad to know I'm not totally gon from all the...Oh, nevermind.

Dec - I think I'm good for now but maybe after the build. I just don't want to burn it up during break-in. BTW - Know any good Dyno guys in our area?

To get a fine dial on the timing (other than the factory setting) you will need and adjustable timing light.

A couple of tips to fine timing a Sportster.

Pull the timing plug and rotate the engine around (spark plugs out in fifth gear) until you see either the two dots ground into the crank or the line cut into it. Get some brake clean and give either mark a quick squirt to clean off the oil. Then use some white paint on a small paint brush or a bright colored Sharpie to highlight the mark. Then rotate until you find the other mark and highlight it the same way.

Then put the plugs in and fire it up. If you are using a standard timing light, you can time to the groove in the flywheel and that will put the bike to the factory timing. If you have an adjustable, you can set it to your desired setting, then adjust the module so that the two dots are centered in the timing hole.

Once you lock the timing plate back down, check the timing one more time as the plate can slightly move when tightening it down.

If you have a chance to buy a timing plug (either the clear plastic one of the thin rubber one that you look through and push against the crank to stop the oil (i prefer this one)) it'll save you a face full of oil :)

Oh and the bike has to be fully warmed up and idling between 1000 and 1050 rpms.

Shamdog,

There are a few around but I am not sure how good they are.
I went to the DynoJet web site and they have a list of dealers.

http://www.dynojet.com/maps/bikedynos/nj.htm

Blackhills custom is the best tuner in NJ but a long ride.

Yea...Black Hills was a thought. I was looking for the link from the MKL Sportster site but it's down. I might go there as I want an expert on this...A Sporty expert.