Day one.

I am currently land speed racing in the 750cc APS/PG class. I will be racing my BMW powered record holder for the last time at Speed Week in August. My current top speed was 127.35 at Maxton in June and I'm shooting for 130-140 at Bonneville. I think that will be the best I can do with the old BMW R75 motor and I have decided to start a new build based on an XB9 motor.

Here are some of the parts I have gathered so far...

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp1.jpg

The rear swingarm is off of a late model GSXR, rear shock CBR900 and front wheel and forks from a 2004 R6.

The new engine just came in...

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp7.jpg

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp8.jpg

Swingarm is mounted in the frame jig. The frame jig still needs some modifications to fit the LSR frame.

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp6.jpg

Bender and tube notcher are ready for the 1" DOM tubing that will be used for the frame.

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp5.jpg

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp4.jpg

Here are pics of my current LSR racer going thru tear-down and cleaning/inspection prior to next month's racing...

http://www.frsengineering.com/mx122.jpg

http://www.frsengineering.com/mx123.jpg

very cool. keep up the pix

Cool !!
Keep it coming Dude !!

Please tell me you live down the street from me...:wonderlan :wonderlan :wonderlan

This is pretty cool, thanks for sharing.

:banapart Keep us updated, looks like it's going to rock!

Thanks for the comments guys. I will start some serious building when I get back from Bonneville. Pics will be posted as the build progresses.

Randy ... Looking good ... when you get a chance I want to talk regarding you doing some mods to a '94 sportster frame I picked for the next land speed project bike.
Joe.

Nice! Very impressive.

Thanks guys. Joe, I believe I still have your number, I will call you during the week.

Randy

on the new Buell LSR build.
Bonneville racing is over for me this year I have been gathering parts from eBay and wherever else I can find them. I still want to stay in the 750cc pushrod class, so I figured a way to get to 748cc with a 3.125 stroke by a 3.050 bore. About as close as a square motor as I can get. I've had to mix and match existing parts and have decided to build a 750cc, fuel injected, turbocharged motor.

here's a bench full of parts waiting to be sent to NRHS...

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp9.jpg


I will start with the stock Buell ECM, develop a baseline map using ECM Spy and then probably add a stand alone Engine Management Controller. This way I can coordinate fuel, boost and ignition from one unit.

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp10.jpg

After I have gotten the engine together and running, I will add a Garrett GT15 turbo with an adjustable boost controller...

http://www.frsengineering.com/gt15.jpg

Sounds like you are going to have fun. Is the piston size going to be smaller or are you shortening the stroke on the XB engine. I have no idea what the stroke is and that is why I am asking? I Have an aerocharger in my garage that I will be putting on this winter. How much boost are you planning on using?

It is amazing how much the air head looks like an ironhead chamber. Wonder why harley did not use a similar piston to the bmw instead of the cheese wedge looking piston?

The stroke is stock XB9, pistons will be specially made, forged for turbo application. I will start with around 15lbs of boost and slowly take it as high as I can.

Hemi combustion chambers are pretty common in a lot of 2 valve motors. Valve size and lift are usually the determining factor in dome shape. BMW didn't make a stock piston with more than about 9.5 to 1 compression on the airheads with a stock cam lift of .266 in.

Randy/
If you are going to use the XB injectors, Dan (NRHS) can machine the injector venturi larger. He did one for my brother on his XB and it came out beautiful.
Joe

What size XB does your brother have? Is it NA or blown? Don't know if that would help me if it's blown...:dunno

Randy,

I am glad you have started this build! It has taking years of me secretly wishing you would come over the the v-twin side. Thanks for posting all of the updates while I was at Bonneville, it was fun brain storming with you trying to figure out how to go faster. Kinda reminds of all of the motorcycle conversations we used to have at break when work was fun before you retired .

This one is going to be cool guys, Randy is an excellent builder, I know he has taught me a lot.

Scott

Thanks Scott, with what you have learned building your Buell and my motor and fabrication skills, we can surely come up with a fast bike. Not to mention the skills of the other guys we both know here and in the racing community around the country...what did we do before the internet!!

Sorry work isn't fun any more, I enjoyed those last few years after you started working with me. Look at it this way...you only have 20 more years to retirement :yikes

Randy,
Tom's bike is an xb9 - 12:1 - cams - normally aspirated using the delphi injections system ... He will run in P/PP 1000 this spring in Maxton for sure / Bonneville? ... Joe

Considering my step back to 750cc's and my using a turbo with heads with smaller valves, I don't think I will benefit from the larger throttle body. If I can put this system together successfully, a future project will be re-installation of the original cylinders and heads for competition in the 1000cc class. Then, the enlargment may make sense. Looking forward to seeing you at Maxton next year,

Randy

When I first started this new LSR build, I wanted to do something more with the paint job than my current salt racer. Partial streamlining fairings provide a large canvas for creative graphics and paint. My favorite colors have always been silver and black on a motorcycle and the Charlie Toy fairing would look great in silver.
I picked up an old Gilera motorcycle for Kent Riches (Airtech) in Illinois and delivered it to him at Speed Week. He brought me this new set of Charlie Toy skins...

http://www.frsengineering.com/bn145.JPG

I decided to build this bike as a tribute to the crew of B-24 #549. My grandfather was the flight engineer on "Marty, The Rubble Maker", as it was called, when all were lost May 12th, 1944 off the coast of Orbetello, Italy.

http://www.frsengineering.com/wordcrew3.jpg

Sgt. Hatfield was in the 15th Air Force, 450th Bomb Group (Cottontails), 722nd squadron (Holy Joes).

http://www.frsengineering.com/15th.gif http://www.frsengineering.com/cottontails.jpg http://www.frsengineering.com/holyjoes.jpg

http://www.frsengineering.com/4836.jpg

will be painted silver with the squadron tail markings on the back and "The Rubble Maker" nose art on the front. It will have the group insignias and a list of crewmembers around the clear canopy.
Unfortunately, number 549 is already taken, but I have reserved 5491 for the bike number.

A friend that is a local artist will paint it for me... http://www.artinfinite.com/

My grandfather was stationed at Wendover when he met my grandmother in Salt Lake City. It will be nice to return to the place where the family was started with this tribute.

Looks nice...very nice

Can I help?

Sam

I appreciate the offer Sam, if there is something I think you can help me with, I will certainly ask. The electronics portion of this build is my forte. The people that got me into this "salt addiction" hold multiple "blown" records, so we have quite an experienced design and support group. I will be posting detailed build photos as we progress and I am always open to suggestion and ideas from anyone, so don't hesitate to speak up if you see me doing something that doesn't look right.
Thanks,
Randy

so don't hesitate to speak up if you see me doing something that doesn't look right.


Please while you are at these events wear long pants!! The sight of those white legs is damaging to the eyes........thank you.:laugh

Scott

Please while you are at these events wear long pants!! The sight of those white legs is damaging to the eyes........thank you.:laugh

Scott

hmmmm, who's got the whitest legs Cali Boy?

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/WOS%202008/100_3236.jpg

http://www.frsengineering.com/bn140.JPG

even Kent's dad has browner legs than you LMFAO :laugh

I knew you would come back with a picture.............the picture that you posted of your self with Kent and Randy is the one that made me post up about your legs................down right scary!!!:banadanc

LOL...wish you were there:p

Now you understand why I got in the truck to put on the britches.

Tooo many cameras.....

Sam

Now you understand why I got in the truck to put on the britches.

Tooo many cameras.....

Sam

You got something to hide Sam?

Just white legs that would shame the Salt.

Sam

Just white legs that would shame the Salt.

Sam


You and Randy should get together sounds like you guys have something else in common besides a turbo 750 v-twin build.

Scott

Now you understand why I got in the truck to put on the britches.

Tooo many cameras.....

Sam

LOL :laugh

You and Randy should get together sounds like you guys have something else in common besides a turbo 750 v-twin build.

Scott

I told you Cali Boy, if my legs were as white as yours...I'd wear long britches too:rolleyes:

All of the engine parts have come in. The heads and cylinders were prepared by NRHS. They did a great job...

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp11.jpg

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp12.jpg

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp13.jpg

Ported and milled with larger stainless valves, new guides, seals, springs and titanium retainers.

They bored two sets of cylinders form me and two sets of forged pistons were made for the turbo application...

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp14.jpg

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp16.jpg

I also ordered a set of S&S roller rockers and adjustable pushrods and pushrod tubes...

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp15.jpg

Randy,
Aren't those pistons just the cutest darn things you ever saw!! I was tempted to keep one and make it into a shift knob!

Make sure to clearance your rocker boxes to clear those big springs and the roller rockers.

Randy,
Aren't those pistons just the cutest darn things you ever saw!! I was tempted to keep one and make it into a shift knob!


LOL, if I ever burn one, I'll send it back to you for your shift knob!

Running a turbo you should say, "When I burn a piston". Not "if". \
Joe

Running a turbo you should say, "When I burn a piston". Not "if". \
Joe

lol
:banana

Running a turbo you should say, "When I burn a piston". Not "if". \
Joe

I was kinda thinking the same thing! LOL

Nice lookin heads there Randy.

Some years back I drag raced a Kawi Z1 laydown alcohol drag bike. Burned pistons, pistons with holes in them, collapsed pistons were the norm. Once I understood turbo lag, boost and ignition timing (read that as 4 motors) I actually had some trouble free races. Joe

That's the whole idea of running electronic fuel injection. I'm hoping to be able to manage fuel and ignition advance/retard according to boost pressure.
I have a 3bar map sensor for when I start running higher boost pressure. I don't think the stock FI has the capability of boost overide adjustment for ignition mapping, but I have another FI engine management system for use when I get to that point.
I had 2 piston sets made for the learning curve, but I have help from associates that have "been there, done that". I hoping to benefit from their experience.

Randy,
You have a good plan with the fuel injection. Detonation can be controlled somewhat with ignition retard available to react to boost rise. That should save some pistons. The system that I ran in the stone age was carbureated and the mixture was not adjustable. I did run an MSD that retarded spark but did not interact with boost. You will have the ability to do that. Your project is an interesting one ... Joe

Thanks Joe, I should be able to increase fuel pressure and pulse width with the fuel injection control while retarding timing, all controlled by boost pressure. These are all programmable parameters in most aftermarket engine management controllers. I tried to help a friend set up an electronic/mechanical combination boost controlled retard and fuel controller on an existing bike with limited success. I couldn't come up with a voltage regulator sensitive enough for his FI controller and his mechanical retard apparatus was a little too complicated for reliable use. I recommended starting over with a stand alone engine management system, but he was trying to make his stock stuff work.

Some of the stand alone systems like Motec and Megasquirt/Microsquirt will work well, it's just how much you want to spend!

This will take an electrical engineer to unravel. Fortunately, you are the right one for the task. I await the results. Your engine managements system will be complex for sure.

I was kinda thinking the same thing! LOL

Nice lookin heads there Randy.


Hey Larry, you working on anything new lately? I didn't see you at speed week this year.

Randy

Hey Randy. Yeah, I been workin on something. Sorting out a few kinks that I can't get into here, but, I'll be back. I plan on BUBS and Elmo next year. Maybe WOS. I can't let Scott have all the fun.

Are you gonna hang around for the BUB meet?

I should have an early Christmas as the last of my parts will be here by Thanksgiving.

Hey Randy. Yeah, I been workin on something. Sorting out a few kinks that I can't get into here, but, I'll be back. I plan on BUBS and Elmo next year. Maybe WOS. I can't let Scott have all the fun.

Are you gonna hang around for the BUB meet?

I should have an early Christmas as the last of my parts will be here by Thanksgiving.

Glad to hear things are working out for you Larry.

Scott

Larry,
Glad to hear you going to Bub's ... Now we have to get Randy and Scott to go ... Joe

Larry,
Glad to hear you going to Bub's ... Now we have to get Randy and Scott to go ... Joe

I think you guys are going to have to come to WOS...........and if I am as broke I am now this time next year I won't be going.

Scott

Larry,
Glad to hear you going to Bub's ... Now we have to get Randy and Scott to go ... Joe

That's the plan right now. I sure missed being there this year. :frownone

Scott, we could probably fit one more bike in the trailer. :banana

Larry:smoke

That's the plan right now. I sure missed being there this year. :frownone

Scott, we could probably fit one more bike in the trailer. :banana

Larry:smoke

That may work........:clap:banana:banadanc

See ya there!

Sam

See ya there!

Sam

Look forward to it Sam, maybe we can get a group rate. :laugh:laugh

I decided today to go to WOS in 2009. With all of the hassle getting a room at Speed Week and the outrageous prices, I think I'll try The USFRA event because it's still SCTA.

I decided to run the engine with high compression pistons and no turbo first. This will give me more time to get comfortable with the fuel and ignition mapping before I start adding boost from the turbo. The new pistons were designed and ordered and the heads were sent out for "dual plug machining".
I just got the heads back and they were done by NRHS very nicely...

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp17.jpg

I have been watching eBay for the bits and pieces for the turbo system. I have decided on the turbo I want to use, but it is backordered from Garrett. Not a problem since I don't need it to get the engine running. I did find a nice intercooler that should fit the bike well...

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp18.jpg

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp19.jpg

Just curious, where are you getting the power for your fuel pump(does it go live with ignition or do you plumb it to oil pressure sensor or something so it cuts off if something happens)? Second question, how exactly does the fuel pressure regulator work, does the vacuum on the manifold keep it above the boost pressure.

At this time I'm using the stock Buell fuel pump. When I have the motor running, I will log fuel pressure. These readings along with the other data logged (A/F, TPS, RPM, MAP, EGT, CHT, etc) will determine required fuel pressure, injector timing and ignition timing. If another type of fuel pump and a pressure regulator are required, it will be a result of the aforementioned data.
The stock fuel pump is currently controlled by the stock engine kill switch and the added "deadman" switch. This is currently powered by the main engine battery. A second battery will be added to power the data logging system and the stand alone turbo oiling system with a time delay off circuit.

Chop,
Where are you going to mount the intercooler?

Sam
#6061 A/PBx, #6062 APS/PBx

Chop,
Where are you going to mount the intercooler?

Most likely low and in the front of the motor Sam. I'm just getting ready to start building the frame, so everything is conceptual right now.

I'm new to the turbo side of racing, so I have to rely on input from friends and professionals when it comes to the design of my system. There are a myriad of configurations out there for just HD systems alone.
I plan on using a turbo configuration similar to the set-up used by RB in their pro gas set-up. It's simple and straightforward set-up, along with their proven history of design and testing, makes it the top candidate for my obvious flattery by imitation...

http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/turbo/HDProGasl.jpg

on a much smaller scale, of course:geek

Ahhh, building own frame.
Makes things so much easier. ;)
I did the plumbing first, then stretched the frame.

How much cubic foot is that intercooler?

Sam

Just curious, how much noise would come fromt he exhaust on that pic. Does the turbo somehow muffle the sound?

Sam, the core size is 9"X7.5"X4".
Most motors with turbos are surprisingly quiet. The turbine vanes muffle the sound very effectively. Sam could probably answer that one for you better than me.

Turbo's with short pipes off the exhaust scroll have a growl but it is low pitched. If you use a long pipe they get much quieter. I used both on the drag bike. Shorter pipe allowed it spool up quicker. Important in drag racing but not much of a consideration in land speed. Either way it is quieter then straight pipes.
Joe

The frame building jig is complete and the DOM tubing should be here this week. All of the various items have been laser aligned with a magnetic alignment tool see on the front upright. The frame construction should be pretty quick. What will take the most time will be the motor mounts, jackshaft mounts and various turbo and intercooler brackets....

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp20.jpg

Very nice and Very cool!

Thanks Josh.

Parts have been ordered and have arrived...DOM tubing, new 1 1/4" die for my bender, new swingarm pivot shaft and jackshaft parts. I have decided to start with a new 25mm swingarm shaft rather that try to modify the existing one. The shaft will be cut and threaded after the supports are welded.
This picture shows the new shaft installed in the support plates and laser aligned...

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp26.jpg

The jackshaft shown setting on the top of the support plate will be installed in alignment with the swingarm shaft.

The steering neck will be laser aligned also...

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp23.jpg

The down tubes have been bent and await notching to fit the steering neck...

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp24.jpg

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp25.jpg

Looking good ... Do you think you can make Maxton in April?

Joe

Looking good ... Do you think you can make Maxton in April?

Joe

I'm gonna try Joe. I plan on running without the turbo in April and with it in June. We will see, if it goes together successfully

Randy,
Watch the primary chain adjuster. Aaron had a problem with it interferring with the frame tube. He mentions it on the thread for my frame. On my frame it will be close but I think it will clear as the engine is mounted higher in the frame.
Joe

Thanks Joe, I'll watch out for that.

Randy, I'm just wundering why yur running a jack shaft? What is the advantage?

Larry

Larry, my wheel base in 72 inches. I'm running the jackshaft for chain length management and the added benefit of extra gear ratio adjustment. With a low HP 750cc motor, I need all the fine tuning I can get. Also, the swingarm I already have is left side drive;)

The down tubes have been bent, notched and tacked in place. Now it's time to install the jackshaft and finish the swingarm shaft. After that, the support plates will be welded in place and the motor mounts will be fabricated. Once the motor is in place, the top tubes will be fabricated.

One step at a time...

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp28.jpg

Larry, my wheel base in 72 inches. I'm running the jackshaft for chain length management and the added benefit of extra gear ratio adjustment. With a low HP 750cc motor, I need all the fine tuning I can get. Also, the swingarm I already have is left side drive;)

Ahhh, gotcha. Lookin good. :D

Wow that jackshaft set-up is crazy!!

The support plates have been drilled and cut for the jackshaft bearings...

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp29.jpg

They were slotted for chain tension adjustment.

This is how the jackshaft will be mounted...

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp30.jpg

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp31.jpg
I will make the center bearing support later.

Looks good Randy......

Thanks Scott

The swingarm shaft has been cut and threaded and I have welded adjusting screws on the supports plates for the bearing blocks. The adjustment is on the back for the left side and on the front for the right side to match chain tension.

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp32.jpg

what happened to the underpowered 750?

Sam

what happened to the underpowered 750?

Sam

I'm not sure what you're talking about??

>With a low HP 750cc motor, I need all the fine tuning I can get. <

Your jackshaft looks to be hefty enough for a top fuel drag bike.
Nothing wrong with overbuilding, just an observation.

Sam

Ahhh, I see what you're talking about now. This bike is just starting with a 750cc motor. After I take as fast as I think it will go, I will put a bigger motor in it. The bottom of the frame will have a steel plate in it that various motor mounts can be bolted to.

We definately have 2 sides of the coin here. Sam who likes to make things as simple and economical as possible and Randy who has more engineering than the space shuttle!!

I love seeing both styles!!

We definately have 2 sides of the coin here. Sam who likes to make things as simple and economical as possible and Randy who has more engineering than the space shuttle!!

I love seeing both styles!!

LMAO...Dan, I will need a much bigger motor before the words "Blastoff" and "Reentry" can be included when talking about my bike:laugh

Anyone know where I can get one of these for a horizontal rather than a verticle application?

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp33.jpg

I would probably need one that is made for a stock sporty with FI.

Randy,
I have a Buell X1 (fuel injected). Want to try that?

This was in 1975-85. The engine was a Shovelhead 82", Air Research Turbo, Hillborn FI on alcohol.

A couple of things I might suggest:

When you make your exhaust system, insert some expansion joints they work great and stop cracks from forming in the pipe.

Use aircraft nuts and safety wire everything.

The Harley motor can live well with a turbo. We experienced some skirt sticking those first years but for the most part they went away when the stroke was shortened. We never holed a piston. In 1979 we upped our own APSAB-2000 to 178, including a one way run of 201. Later in that week, we had several 196-198s .

We tried waste gates, but eventually just let it take whatever it got (18+)
As you know 6400 rpm for 5 miles can really hurt an engine, this thing was like a tractor. In your situation, with computerized fuel control, you should really rock. My point is: these engines can and will survive a turbo.

Finally: as you know, the key to speed up there is aerodynamics. Free speed.
A simple Road Race faring is good for 12 MPH on any bike. I see a Long Course sticker in your future.

Thanks Dan, go ahead and send me the one we talked about on the phone. Gotta love this internet and NRHS...post a question and my phone rings a few minutes later!

11B40, thanks for the info, the slip joints are a great idea for the exhaust. I already have one of the most slippery fairings for this bike!

http://www.frsengineering.com/bn145.JPG

Bottom motor mount plates have been installed. The engine motor mounts will be bolted to these plates so the engine type can be easily changed later.

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp34.jpg

I'm talking about bellows joints that expand and contract without putting pressure on the solid pieces. The engine attachments are held with 4-5/16" 12 point bolts and safety wired. I'll find some photos. This set up was run for 10+ years with no cracks or failures.

Interesting, I hope you can find the pics...I'd like to see it.
Thanks

Randy,
I like the motor mount setup ... simple and functional.
Joe

Thanks Joe, functional, but not so simple!LOL It will have 5 mounting points! The two bottom brackets shown in the pic are the original muffler brackets I'm just using to hold it upright.
I will have more pics in a few days.

...is difficult with this motor since it was made to be mounted from the top. I was able to attach to various points on the motor and this one will have 5 points of attachment to the frame.

The bottom rear mount is bolted to the rear muffler mounting points. I will fabricate another rear mount that will attach to the 4 blue bolts seen above the bottom mount. This will be supported by a center post attached to the top and bottom frame rails.

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp35.jpg

The upper front mount is attached to the front head and will be bolted to a tab welded to the down tubes...

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp36.jpg

The lower front mount is connected to a combination of a case bolt and the front muffler mount. I was unable to put a case bolt tab on both sides due to the oil filter location, so I made the one extra beefy...

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp37.jpg

The bottom mounts will be thru bolted to the bottom plates and the upper center mount will be attached to the heads and the top frame tube.

Not so simple ... I should have realized that my XB engine is top suspended ... a cradle frame is a better race frame ... the challenge will be the extensive mounting system.
Joe

...of the frame were pretty simple, I'm getting the hang of this new tube bender now. The plan is to try and enclose everything I can in a space the same width of the motor. With the frame shaped like this I have plenty of room in the space behind the motor and above the jackshaft for fuel and oil tanks. The battery will be located under the jackshaft....

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp38.jpg

The first version of this bike will have no turbo or fairing and I will try to keep it as slippery as possible...

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp39.jpg

I will be able to lay against the top of the frame where is slopes up and instruments will be mounted where it slopes down to the steering neck...

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp40.jpg

Randy ... Make sure you write down all the measurements and everything you do with this frame. You may be building another one for me next year ... I love it ... Joe

Looking good Randy. I'd put a couple more zip ties on the backbone tho. :doh

jk :smoke

Looking good Randy. I'd put a couple more zip ties on the backbone tho. :doh

jk :smoke


I got those stainless steel zip ties on order, ya know LOL

Randy ... Make sure you write down all the measurements and everything you do with this frame. You may be building another one for me next year ... I love it ... Joe

I've seen your work Joe, you could easily make one yourself ;)

I wanted to do a "loose" fit on the fairing before I did the final frame construction. The main front fairing will move back a couple of inches when mounted and the rear fairing angle will be adjusted to match the front. There will also be a front fender installed and tucked up into the front fairing...

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp43.jpg

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp41.jpg

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp42.jpg

Damn that looks gooood!

Damn that looks gooood!

Ditto! :)

Thanks guys.
Dan, it looks like that throttle body and intake will work. I'll get something in the mail to you this week, thanks.

Randy

Randy,
Glad to help. Now where would an NRHS sticker look good on that bike???

I'm still looking for more close up stuff. Notice the turbocharger against the oil tank. The turbo is wet and the fuel injection intake is looking at you. The 4 bolt exhaust attachment is visible and the expansion bellows are too but you have trouble seeing them. It is a very tidy narrow design. Our first order of business was to get that 175 long course sticker so you don't have to wait in line with the slow guys. I'll post more when I find them










http://home.pacbell.net/hedgehog/turbo.jpg

11B40,

What's it look like behind the front tire? <innocent look>

Sam

Randy,
Glad to help. Now where would an NRHS sticker look good on that bike???

We'll find a good place for a couple of those stickers Dan :cheers

I'm still looking for more close up stuff. Notice the turbocharger against the oil tank. The turbo is wet and the fuel injection intake is looking at you. The 4 bolt exhaust attachment is visible and the expansion bellows are too but you have trouble seeing them. It is a very tidy narrow design. Our first order of business was to get that 175 long course sticker so you don't have to wait in line with the slow guys. I'll post more when I find them

Good lookin bike, was there a reason you went for a wet system since you were using fuel injection? I'd like to see a close-up of the right side if you have it.

Damn fine quality work you do Rchop. :clap
Hope you don't mind, I lifted the photo you use as your avatar from your web site. To use it as a desktop photo, it absolutely killer.

11b40, very nice bike and cool pic. When I first looked at the pic I wondered why you needed so much brake, then I saw the hurst-airheart m/c. lol Ya prolly had to drag yur feet too. :D We still need more pics tho.

Randy, keep up the good work. I still don't think it'll run with just a velocity stack. :doh Ya need a float bowl. :p

:smoke

Damn fine quality work you do Rchop. :clap
Hope you don't mind, I lifted the photo you use as your avatar from your web site. To use it as a desktop photo, it absolutely killer.

No problem Sleeper, thanks for the positive comments.


Randy, keep up the good work. I still don't think it'll run with just a velocity stack. :doh Ya need a float bowl. :p
:smoke

Float bowl!! shoot, I'm just gonna hose that gas right down it's throat, we don't need no stinkin float bowl LOL:tour

11B40,

What's it look like behind the front tire? <innocent look>

Sam

FAST, no very fast

There's a pretty good sized hole. Those two 175s on the windscreen are long course stickers (The only way to go)

http://home.pacbell.net/hedgehog/turbo_front

There's a pretty good sized hole. Those two 175s on the windscreen are long course stickers (The only way to go)

http://home.pacbell.net/hedgehog/turbo_front

I see that you are a member of the San Diego Roadster Club as well........

He designed, fabricated and rode it. A real talented and intelligent guy Robert. I just did the lifting.

We have went 218 mph but we don't have a big enough fuel tank to run the long course. At Bubs this year they ran the lines very well and there was no advanatge to running long course vs short course.

I am waiting for some parts before I can finish the frame, so I decided to lay out the turbo location and the turbo exhaust. I won't be using them in the first runs, but I need to know where everything goes so I don't build into the space needed. The first thing I had to do was build the t-25 flange to attach the exhaust to the turbo...

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp45.jpg
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp44.jpg

After that I mocked up the exhaust run with spare exhaust tubing I have around the shop. The rear head exhaust will make the turn with what is called a tube donut that is cut in half to close connect the equal length exhaust tubes...

http://www.pro-werks.com/assets/catalog/parts/partpic/200/150/Pro-Werks/C76-560-SS_1.jpg

The pressurized turbo intake will travel around the rear head and connect to the plenum that will cover the throttle body. I will start without an intercooler and add one if I think I need it...

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp46.jpg

Good show!
More pics!

Sam

I have just gotten the exhaust parts I ordered for the first runs without the turbo. It's all stainless steel with slip-fit spring held connections at the collector. I will be installing 2 bungs at the narrow end of the megaphone for the O2 sensors. One for my data logging system and one for the fuel injection system. I may have to modify this system later if I run it with the fairing. Probably a replacement collector with a turn-out pipe through the fairing. This will be a good system for Maxton, but I may need a different style for the long, high rpm runs at Bonneville.

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp48.jpg

The stainless meg is pretty ... Joe

I split the cases yesterday so I could send the crank in for true, tig and balance. I had been wrestling with the decision to do that work and I'm glad I did. After splitting the case, I found a problem with the left side pinion bearing race. I can now add a new bearing and race to the list of things to do.

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp52.jpg

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp53.jpg

The frame construction is pretty much done. I just have to add a few brackets, gussets and finish welding.

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp54.jpg

Just a thought, but when it comes around to the next rebuild of the bottom end, you may consider having a Company like Denver crank machining some teeth into your crank and converting to a crank positioning sensor (CKP), and different EFI. I think the '08-up XB's have a new EFI that uses a CKP so you might be able to use that. I say this because the Crank gives much more accurate readings to the EFI than the cams from my research. Fireman Jim Higgens is building a Massive Turbo'd S&S 100" Buell S2 for Bonne, shooting for 250-350 HP, and he considered it worthwhile to machine his crank to run a CKP for the EFI. Just a thought though. Thousands of XB's and Sportsters have raced well with the cam-based variant. I will be having my crank and cases modified to run a CKP for my Delphi EFI conversion project on my S2T. It'll be a mild 1250cc otherwise, 110 hp goal.

Good ideas, the engine will be coming apart again when I add the turbo. I will need to have the crank re-balanced with the new turbo pistons and I'm planning on upgrading the EFI system soon also, thanks.

The frame looks really good Randy.

Thanks Larry

I mocked up the fuel tank location on the rear subframe and posted this pic on the landracing site. Wooo-boy, did I hear all about not mounting a fuel tank there! That's what I like about the internet, there's alot of experienced people out there ready to make sure past mistakes aren't repeated. I have been told the high rear mounted tank can have quite an effect on handling. It has to do with Cg and Cp calculations. It looks like the under frame tank might be the way to go for me.
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp55.jpg

On to plan "B" for the fuel tank location :)

So, with all the "suggestions" about the tail mounted tank, I have decided to mount the tank under the frame. I will be running without the fairing for most of this year and I have to use a fuel pump anyway, since it's fuel injected. If there's a conflict with the fairing bellypan when I run with the fairing, I can make a couple of side mounted "tube tanks" like I had on my last bike. At least this one will stay out of the windstream when running unfaired. I made a tank that will hold about 2.3 gallons and I will put a couple of baffles in it before I weld the ends up.
Here's what it looks like now...

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp58.jpg

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp59.jpg

I have fabricated 2 baffle plates and attached them to the inside of the tank using a portable spot welder. Now I can close up the ends and install the petcock bung...

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp60.jpg

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp61.jpg

That looks really good Randy.

Looking at the tank I was thinking about how I might close the front end. So, after a lot of thought I decided round would be better...LOL I know it will be more work to weld up then a flat piece but I figure aero wise it might be better. It might deflect anything that could puncture the tank as well. Well, there it is, for what it's worth. The benefit of me having too much time on my hands... Unfortunately.

I have already closed it in with a flat piece of 10 ga metal Larry, but I have already thought of what you said also and there will be a curved shield covering the front part ot the tank to protect it. Kind of like a full skid plate. I just have to be careful not to make it look like a fairing.

The tank has been welded, leak checked and painted with some "bedliner" material. The mounting tabs will be drilled when the frame tabs are installed. I will make a protective plate to cover the bottom, like a skid plate, out of the .180 aluminum plate behind it...

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp65.jpg

I'm finally moving forward...almost.
I received the crankshaft and engine case back from the machinist. The pinion shaft bearing and races have been replaced and align bored. The crankshaft/flywheels have been balanced, trued and tig welded.
I had a set of high compression pistons made to run NA before the turbo goes on and I started to fit them to the rods only to find out they need more machining to fit the XB9 rods. So, back to the piston manufacturer they go. Thanks to Dan at NRHS, the piston manufacturer is taking care of the work and all the shipping.:cheers

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp66.jpg

I read thru all this and I have to say I wish I had the skills and the tools to build a bike like that. Thanks for sharing the build pics.

Thanks RR, I appreciate the comments.

I read thru all this and I have to say I wish I had the skills and the tools to build a bike like that. Thanks for sharing the build pics.

Gotta agree RR......makes a guy feel somewhat "basic" in their knowledge:doh

Very nice work Rchop....very nice:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap

Thanks for the comments guys.
Most of the spring planting is done, so I got to spend some time working on the bike today. This new fangled fuel injection stuff is new to me, so I'm learning as I go. I installed my fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator and found out I need to run a return line back to the fuel tank.
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp68.jpg

This means I have to weld another bung in the tank for the return line.
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp69.jpg

I also built the exhaust. The fuel line coming up the front of the bike with the little air filter is the tank vent with a tip-over valve.
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp70.jpg

Thanks for the comments guys.
Most of the spring planting is done,

HELLO..........If the rest of us can't eat................we can't cheer you on!:doh:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:cl ap:clap
We R there in spirit!:banadanc:banana:clap

I am using a dual flow petcock(Pingle guzzler) on my bike so I can use one side as a return line for my pressure regulator. The instructions for Aerocharger actually suggests the way I am doing it. You can weld so I think I would go with the weld in bung also. Your installation is really clean and it loks like you do not skimp on anything.

Where did the turbo go. Did I miss something?

Thanks guys. That's a great idea RR, I wish I would have thought of that when I bought my Pingle valve:doh. With the price of those valves, I will have to go for the weld in bung.

The high compression pistons are going in and it will be run NA until I get the EFI dialed in, then I will change the pistons and add the turbo. Hopefully I can best my own non-turbo records first.

This post was from April 30th...
Today I worked on the air intake box. I fabricated the 9 inch round backplate...for the third time, I cut the first two plates from some 18ga stainless steel I had and ended up with 2 oil can bottoms. You could pop them back and forth just like an old oil can. I got out a bucket of ice water and the torch and tried to shrink the metal, but no joy. I finally cut a new one out of some 16ga mild steel and it remained flat. Now I have to paint it...dang! The intake tubing is 2.5 inch aluminum tubing and I will have a bellmouth made for the front.
Now I just have to decide how deep I want the box and make a cover.

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp71.jpg

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp72.jpg

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp73.jpg

Things have finally gotten back to normal around here and it's been too hot to work outside, so I'm able to work on the bike again. The airbox shown on the previous pictures was too high. I had to put my arm around the outside of the box to reach the controls.
I decided to rotate the box down 180 degrees and run the intake in through the cover instead of the back. I will weld the opening in the back closed...

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp78.JPG

I installed the intake tube in the cover with the outlet pointed away from the TB intake...

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp79.JPG

This ended up being a much simpler installation than the previous one...

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp77.JPG

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp76.JPG

This setup will be used only while I get a feel for the adjustments needed on the fuel injection system. Once I get the hang of that, I will install some different pistons and fit the turbo to the bike.

Just like all your work....Beautiful:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap

I'd sure like to see some gussets welded in the neck area. I think the tubes to the neck are too close to each other to give you max strength. But then maybe on the flats where it's smooth, it's good enough. Hummm.

I'd sure like to see some gussets welded in the neck area. I think the tubes to the neck are too close to each other to give you max strength. But then maybe on the flats where it's smooth, it's good enough. Hummm.

If you look close, you will see alot of the tubing is just tacked in place. I will disassemble the entire bike and do all the finish welding (including gussetts) when all the brackets have been fabricated.

If you look at this video from speedweek last year, you will see that Bonneville isn't as smooth as you would think...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RBV_ITAlzQM

The concrete and asphalt at Maxton is even rougher.

If you look at this video from speedweek last year, you will see that Bonneville isn't as smooth as you would think...

The concrete and asphalt at Maxton is even rougher.

Yikes!:doh And those ruts......they must make it real interesting on a Bike:shhhh:shhhh

The camera was a little loose in it's holder, so the bumps were exagerated. The early morning sun angle does show the holes and ruts well.

Exhaust pipes have been final welded and finished. The air box base plate has been finished with the IAT sensor installed and a bung for the MAP sensor.

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp81.JPG

The top oxygen sensor in the back exhaust pipe is for engine fuel management and the bottom sensor is for my data logger

Top engine/coil mount has been fabricated

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp83.JPG

Instrument panel and data logger have been mounted

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp87.JPG

I didn't like the way the throttle cables ran in the above pic, so I re-indexed the throttle assy to find a better route

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp89.JPG

Very nice air cleaner and cover assembly.............

Thanks, I hope it works out ok, or else my wife's salad bowl gave it's all for nothing LOL

Wouldn't a wider mouth on the inlet create a greater ram air effect. I like the a/c, hope it works great and after you run you can use it for popping some corn.

You reach a point of diminishing return with the opening size. It's so much larger than the throttle body now, if it got any bigger, it would probably just create drag. I used a 2 inch inlet on my last 750 (BMW) and it worked fine, this one is now 2.5 inch.

I know inlet location is important because the aerocharger plenum was changed for the second gen turbo to the middle like your design. They claimed it needed 3 less psi of boost to make the same power just because of the center oriented inlet instead of along the top was that much better.

Just curious, do you know where Sam Dakin has his shop?

Sam Dakin lives in Kansas, close to Kansas City, MO I believe.

The first requirement for landspeed racing is to have a scoop that is sized to match the engines inlet requirements for the projected maximum speed of the car/motorcycle and be most efficient at that speed. If the scoop is too large then the excess air that is not taken into the engine is spilled around the inlet and generate large,high drag vortexes that take horse power to drag along with the vehicle. The second requirement is that a properly designed inlet needs to provide is expansion of the inlet tract volume to slow down the air velocity to regain pressure and it needs to guide the incoming air into the engine inlets without causing internal vortex generation.
A properly designed ram air system needs to have the smallest intake you can get away with while still meeting the first requirement and then expand in size to stop the air velocity thus meeting the second requirement (simplification).
I have tried to do this in the most simple terms by providing a large chamber (expansion of the tract) while directing the intake tube away fron the TB opening to reduce intake turbulence as shown here:
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp79.JPG

Hey Dan, how's it going, you going to BUB this year?

I am goint to Bubs. You?

I am trying to get a Blast ready that is fighting me to make power for my wife to ride!!

Unfortunately, I'm not going to get salty this year:frownone. Next year is definitely on the schedule though. A lot of things happened this year to slow me down and now I'm flogging it to be ready for Maxton in Sept. I have a couple of Maxton meets to work out the bugs, running NA and then I hope to be at Bonneville with the turbo on. Of course, that will mean a stop at your shop for a dyno run :). Thanks again for your help getting the pistons sorted out:clap

My comments about the plenum were asked because I know in the case of my turbo that a slight design change yielded a much smoother intake tract and ultimately higher performance with all other things being equal. I am curious whether the tube aimed at the bottom does not create the same kind of air flow problems inside the aircleaner as the air flow problem in the turbo plenum shown in the top pic. The center oriented plenum produces same h.p. with 3 to 4 less psi of boost. That is alot of h.p. for such a minor change. http://www.american-v.co.uk/technical/tuning/aerocharger/aero9p.jpg
http://xlforum.net/photopost/watermark.php?file=46519&size=1

That's a good question RR. I know that boosted airflow and NA airflow don't necessarily yield the same results. The only way to really test this NA application is actually running at the track. Myguess would be, after looking at your pics, is the top entry would set up a CCW swirl pattern with the air flow compared to the dead straight entry from the center. That's just a guess though, but I'm trying to accomplish the same thing with my direction of the NA ram airflow into the side of the cover rather than over the top of the TB. I'm hoping to slow the velocity of the airflow by directing it into the bottom of the chamber.

I finally healed up after my little shop accident and got back to work. I'm not going to make the September Maxton meet but October will be fine. The tail fairing and battery have been installed. The shifter has been fabricated and installed with the side stand. I have a couple more brackets and chain covers to make along with a small chin fairing to protect the front of the gas tank. Then, it will all come apart for final welding and gussets...

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp97.JPG

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp98.JPG

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp99.JPG

Looks good ... I had a ton of issues trying ram air on the red bike ... I gave up & just ran the S&S short stack ... I believe that a bigger plenum would have solved it in hindsight. Worth a try.

Joe

Looks good ... I had a ton of issues trying ram air on the red bike ... I gave up & just ran the S&S short stack ... I believe that a bigger plenum would have solved it in hindsight. Worth a try.

Joe

I hear ya Joe, it's easily removed if it doesn't work. I will be logging MAP to see if it does any good.

For those trying to run ram air with a carb ( yes I know RC has fuel injection but thought this is worth hearing), you will better results if you you run your carb vents into the air box so the float bowl is pressurized. Back many moons ago (Before oem ram air systems existed) Yoshimura offered a ram air kit with sealed airbox for the 600 katana. They were used in 600 Supersport, a class that limited internal engine modifications, but the exhaust and airboxes could be messed with. The Katana's were getting killed by the Honda's and this was an attempt to level the playing feild.

Most who tried the kits never could get them to work. You could get the main jet right at 9000rpm in first gear but it would be terrible in top gear or vice a versa. Those that built little mini ram air set ups for the carb vents and fitted them inside the airbox were able to get them to work.

Did you hurt yourself RC?

Randy,

I applaud you on your plans to use "549" in the number for your bike, to show respect to your grandfather and his crew in defending this country.

What I cannot figure out is where the 549 number comes from and why it was stenciled on the front of the aircraft.

On the B-52 bombers and other aircraft I worked on in the USAF, it was typical to use four numbers to quickly identify the aircraft.

The first number was used was typically the last number of the year the aircraft was built, and the remaining numbers were the last 3 (or maybe 4) numbers of the aircraft serial number.

In the case of your grandfather's plane, the tail would have the entire year and serial number (42-52096), but on the nose, they typically use the shorter version, which might have been 2096 or even 22096, since there were so many B-24's built.

I just can't figure out where the "549" comes from.

I had one thought and it's a distinct possibility - it has been known to happen that "tail numbers" and aircraft identification numbers have been changed on the sides of aircraft under cover of darkness on a regular basis, to fool those "spies" in foreign countries who were keeping track of the aircraft tail numbers coming & going...

Great job on your bike - Congrats and best of luck on your LSR record tries!

Did you hurt yourself RC?

Yeah, I decided to see how well the hand held angle grinder with a cut-off wheel works on my forearm...result: it works well!!

Dave, I don't know where the 549 came from either, but I decided not to use it. I found out my grandfather's crew wasn't even flying their own plane when they were shot down, so I decided to go another route. The number 4836 was available from the SCTA and that's the number of their Missing Air Crew Report. I reserved that number for this bike.

Thanks for the comments guys.

The fuel tank is mounted low and behind the front wheel. I am going to run unfaired first, so I have made a tank protector to mount in the front of the tank...

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp100.JPG


http://www.frsengineering.com/pp101.JPG

The front, top motor mount has been fabricated. The fuel tank vent and tip-over valve go through the middle of the motor mount. The vent filter will be surrounded by the neck gussetts. This should put the vent in a good dead-air space...

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp102.JPG

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp103.JPG

Maru - I believe is correct regarding the ram air ... RC, with FI you should be ok but with a carbureator in essence you are forcing supercharged air through the venturi and there is a potential to create unequal pressure in the float bowl. If you box the carb in the a plenum like the old Magnuson's the pressure is equal everywhere in the fuel system.

I finished my primary chain cover. This covers the short chain that runs from the transmission to the jackshaft...

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp104.JPG

The final mock-up is complete and now it's time to finish the build.

The wheels have been powdercoated with new bearings seals and tires installed...
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp108.JPG

I have a growing amount of fabricated, renewed, and repainted parts...
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp109.JPG

The frame is almost complete as final welding is done and gussets are added...
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp107.JPG

works of Art!!

Thanks Dan, Joe and I are going to speedweek together next year. The plan is to stop and see you on the way there.

Plan to come a few days early so we can get them on the dyno. Speedweek, really? Prepare yourself for some outrageous hotel proices!!

We will do that.
I have already reserved the basement bedroom from a local resident at a reasonable price. That is the only reason I'm going back to speed week, since the prices have gone up so much.

Wow. Just found this thread and read through all 20 pages! (downtime while running tests :geek)

Amazing build!

Thanks for all the effort, information, pictures, and pleasure in this thread!

Good luck!

Thanks for the comments Tyberius, they are appreciated.

Sometimes life and commitments outside the shop get in the way of a build. This has been the case since September and I have finally completed all the outside list. I finally got back to the build and finished off the frame construction. It has been primed and hung in the large shop for painting. We have been blessed with fantastic weather lately, so the painting should go quickly.

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp111.JPG

I also painted and baked the cylinders and heads with some high heat paint. I have been using Duplicolor high heat silver on my heads and cylinders for a long time now and it has proven itself when properly heat cured. Unfortunately, it looks so good, I'm going to have repaint the rest of the light colored parts of the engine...drat!

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp110.JPG

The first fit for all the new engine parts..

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp115.JPG

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp116.JPG

The new frame is ready for assembly...

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp112.JPG

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp113.JPG

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp114.JPG

ABSOLUTELY BEAUTIFUL!:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap

Geez Randy,
That just looks too pretty to take to the salt and get it all corroded!! :)

Geez Randy,
That just looks too pretty to take to the salt and get it all corroded!! :)

LOL, you have to remember Dan, I'm retired! I have plenty of time to take it apart and polish it again. Most of my runs will be at Maxton anyway.

The final assembly is the most fun part of the build...

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp117.JPG

Are you running a full fairing on this? I ask because if you are planning on running naked they have changed the rules for front fenders and yours would not be legal.

Are you running a full fairing on this? I ask because if you are planning on running naked they have changed the rules for front fenders and yours would not be legal.

I will be running a full fairing (APS) at Bonneville. I will start running in just the A class at Maxton, so I will have to cut a 5 inch wedge out of the front of the fender if they follow the SCTA rules in 2010. If I have to cut it for Maxton, I will have another full fender for Bonneville.

It looks really good Randy. Have you decided when you're going to Bville?

Thanks Larry, I'm going to Speed Week in 2010. I already have a place to stay reserved with a local resident. Joe Daly and I will going together and we will both be taking Buell powered bikes in 2010.

I hope you are planning on coming a few days early so we can get both bikes on our dyno before you get to B'ville!! No need to rent a hotel. I have 2 extra beds.

Joe and I are planning on it, Dan. Thanks

Some Assembly Required...

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp118.JPG

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp119.JPG

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp120.JPG

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp121.JPG

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp122.JPG

Mechanical construction is complete. Now it's time to install the EFI computer and wire all the sensors and controls.

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp127.JPG

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp128.JPG

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp129.JPG

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp130.JPG

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp131.JPG

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp132.JPG

Hey RChop,

Great thread and pics.

I live in Wendover so I'll have to check your bike out in the pits this summer.

If there's anything I can help you with here just let me know.

Just out of curiosity how did you find a town resident's basement to rent for the week?

You're welcome to stop in any time, we will be in the San Diego Roadster Club pits.
The home owner offered his spare room at Landracing.com. One racer has already stayed with them and spoke highly of them, so I contacted him last summer and was lucky to be the first.
Thanks for the offer of help, if we need anything, I'll send you a message.

awesome thread! You have some mad fab skills! what dates are the bonneville meet you are running at. I would like to show up and watch!

Thanks, we will be there Aug 14-20

It's ALIVE !!
I have become an instant fan of EFI. This thing started easier than any carbed bike I have ever built :wonderlan

WOW!! Truly amazing skills Rchop! An inspiration to us all, I'm sure. All I can think is wow! Read all 22 pages and can't wait to read more! Bravo!!!

WOW!! Truly amazing skills Rchop! An inspiration to us all, I'm sure. All I can think is wow! Read all 22 pages and can't wait to read more! Bravo!!!

Ditto. Love this thread!
Only thread I have subscribed to.

Thanks guy, I appreciate the comments. I will post a youtube video of it running in a couple of weeks.

Here's hoping for 75+ hp!!!

Here's hoping for 75+ hp!!!

We will find out when we get it to your dyno! Can you fit a 72" wheel base?

Pretty sure I can.

a true work of art,,,you build a breathtaking machine,,an inspiration to those who wish to participate....very humbling for my meager attempt to run on the salt,,,your vision and skills are astounding
thank you for the posts

Thanks for your kind words rascalion, I do appreciate them.

if you don't object i would like to ask for some advice a little farther along with my project

if you don't object i would like to ask for some advice a little farther along with my project

I'd be happy to help if I can. What are you building?

Great...this thread is just great!
I hope I get to catch some races/runs this year...I keep missing the bikes at speed week by like a week or two (I live in Nor Cal and visit family in Wisconsin each summer)
I love that 110 mile ride down the 80 from SLC to Wendover...just thinking of all the history thats been made on the salt there-
and that weird tree with giant tennis balls on it...I think its a cell tower?
Anyway-great job of showing detailed pics and tech info-

Great...this thread is just great!
I hope I get to catch some races/runs this year...I keep missing the bikes at speed week by like a week or two (I live in Nor Cal and visit family in Wisconsin each summer)
I love that 110 mile ride down the 80 from SLC to Wendover...just thinking of all the history thats been made on the salt there-
and that weird tree with giant tennis balls on it...I think its a cell tower?
Anyway-great job of showing detailed pics and tech info-

Not a cell tower, some crazy Swed's idea of art.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metaphor:_The_Tree_of_Utah

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c8/Saltph42.jpg/180px-Saltph42.jpg

I'd be happy to help if I can. What are you building?

My intent is to alter or modify an 883 sportster to run at bonniville….i have procured a gt 15 turbo, ordered the required pistons from dan at nrhs and intend to do my own headwork

did you put the video on youtube?

Do you have a Garrett turbo, or is your GT15 another brand? I haven't taken the video yet.

hate to have to confess, my gt 15 is a knock off they say can be rebuilt with garrett components,,,,it appears by the numbers that it's very similar to a garrett gt 1548...hope not to have poured limited funds down a rat hole trying to save money
specs:
Housing:
Turbine A/R - 0.47
Compressor A/R - 0.42
Turbine Wheel Trim: 72
Compressor Wheel:
Inducer - 36.3mm
Exducer - 50.9mm
Trim - 55

I have a Garrett 1548 and an aftermarket GT1544. I am going to try them both. My genuine 1548 has a smaller turbine A/R than yours and I was concerned about the size of mine. That's why I decided to also get the 1544 with even smaller trubine A/R to keep the exhaust gas velocity up. That's the problem with the HD v-twin; to keep the turbine spinning high enough for good boost. Unfortunately, there isn't a lot of info available for my 750cc motor, since most applications are much higher displacement. I don't know what your timeline is, but hopefully I'll be able to try them both and give you some input. I'll be running naturally aspirated until I get a good handle on the fuel injection mapping, then I'll change the pistons and install the turbo. If you can figure an accurate CFM on your motor, you should be able to plot a accurate line on the applicable compressor map and make sure you're staying to the right side of the surge line. This is all new to me, so you will have to bear with me as I learn more.

did the math and the map shows my machine should run right in the sweet spot,,,attempted to copy and post the map to show you but it didn't work...am hoping not to have to go to the expense and complication of fuel injection,,,trying to work up a functional blow thru set up,,,,don't have the capital for a store bought injection system nor the knowledge to assemble my own...my dream is to have her ready to run on the salt by sept.... if you or any one you know might have any suggestions they would be greatly appreciated

That's good to hear. Are you increasing displacement to 1000cc? Unfortunately my 750cc numbers ran close to the surge line on the 1548. That's why I'm also trying the 1544. One of them should work!
All of my stuff has come from ebay; motor, turbos, suspension, controls, wiring and wheels. Both turbos are brand new and bought for ridculously low prices. Dan at NRHS has done my head work, pistons, cylinders and performance parts and he has been a valuable resource for me. A couple of friends in SoCal have been doing this stuff forever and they have been very valuable also. One of the easiest places to get good info is landracing.com. If you post a question there about setting up your blow thru system, you will probably find more than one person who has done it before. They welcome new people, and are more than willing to help you get out on the salt.

yep, 1000cc it is,,,not had much luck on landracing with blow thru carb questions will try again,,,Sam Dakin is a friend and great help Dan has been very helpful also,,,next time you talk to the guys in socal, if you would could you ask them?

I will ask about it, next time I talk to them.

That's good to hear. Are you increasing displacement to 1000cc? Unfortunately my 750cc numbers ran close to the surge line on the 1548. That's why I'm also trying the 1544. One of them should work!
All of my stuff has come from ebay; motor, turbos, suspension, controls, wiring and wheels. Both turbos are brand new and bought for ridculously low prices. Dan at NRHS has done my head work, pistons, cylinders and performance parts and he has been a valuable resource for me. A couple of friends in SoCal have been doing this stuff forever and they have been very valuable also. One of the easiest places to get good info is landracing.com. If you post a question there about setting up your blow thru system, you will probably find more than one person who has done it before. They welcome new people, and are more than willing to help you get out on the salt.

you were quite right about the guy's at landracing.com...ask the right questions and get alot of good ideas,,,thanks very much
:clap

That's good, I was a little concerned if you would get any responses in the EFI section, but I see that the response has been good.

I was having problems with the temp sensor output into the ECM. I had to relocate the sensor when the second spark plug was installed in it's location. The stock Buell EFI system is known for running very rich until the rear head is up to operating temp. I had my XB12 in for service recently and the dealer told me not to ride the bike until it has reached operating temp, since this can cause the plugs to foul due to the rich condition. Sure enough, the A/F ratio was running low and my plugs were getting black. The sensor is a thermistor that changes resistance with temp rise. Rather than deal with the now inaccurate sensor output, I decided to overide it. An array of resistors was made to simulate operating temperature and the best one was picked and will be permanently installed in place of the sensor.

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp133.jpg



This pic shows the stock narrow band O2 sensor on the top and the wide band data logginng O2 sensor on the bottom. My next task is to add an LC-1 controller to the wide band sensor so I can have 2 analog outputs; one for the ECM and one for the data logger. After that is done, I can remove the top sensor and plug the exhaust pipe.

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp134.jpg

I'm just finishing up some things while I wait for it to get warm enough for a road test. One of the tough items was to protect the fuel pump at the bottom of the bike. I finally decided to put a brace bar alongside the pump and enclose the pump inside a stainless steel tube which is attached to the brace bar...

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp135.JPG

All the electronics are installed in an enclosed bay underneath the seat...

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp136.JPG

The tail section can now be installed...

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp138.JPG

A fine example of true craftsmanship. Very fine indeed.

Thanks for the positive comments.
I rolled the bike outside for a little test ride and immediately found an uncomfortale situation. I just put a rear, foot controlled brake on it. With the almost lay down position, having my right foot on the peg during low speed manuvering doesn't inspire a lot of confidence. After a morning of ebay shopping, all the front brake parts with the right hand actuated brake master cylinder or on their way here. The bike has been put back in the shop until the new front brakes are installed.

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp139.JPG

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp140.JPG

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp141.JPG

http://www.frsengineering.com/pp142.JPG

Thanks for posting this build, really enjoying it and nice work

Randy,
Why can't you just use a hand brake lever but still actuating the rear brake? Just get a long brake line. That's what we did on our 200+ mph bike.

thanks for the updates Rchop

Thanks for the comments guys.

I had that setup on my last bike Dan. It would be just fine for Bonneville, but the rear brake rotor would get hot spots in it under the heavier braking at Maxton. I had some of the parts already, and the rest were cheap on ebay. I will probably remove it for speed week, but at Maxton, you do a lot of low speed manuvering driving to and from the pits.

Yes at Maxton I definately understand the need for a front brake.

That bike just looks fast standing still!!

That bike just looks fast standing still!!

hmmmm, can I get a record for that:laugh

That bike just looks fast standing still!!

That Bike is Flat AZZ Gorgeous...and a 1st class piece of Machinery!:clap:clap:clap

You Sir are one Tremendous Craftsman!:clap:clap:banana:banana