View Full Version : Pipes and Jets
21st November 2004, 15:28
Hello...I am new to the forum and this is my 1st post.
I have just picked up an '05 Sportster Custom and am looking to install my pipes. I will be putting on BUB Jug Huggers this week. My questions are:
Will and damage occur to the pipes or the motor if I do not jet right away??
Also, do you have any recommendations as far as jetting the carb once I get the SE air cleaner??
Thanks a million...I will be sure to post some pics when it is complete
21st November 2004, 16:01
All bikes are different but the majority seem to use 45 slow and 180/185 main jets for a 1200 and 45-170/175 for 883. Also get yourself the 1988 needle for your carb. You may run too lean with the pipes and no jetting so try to do them both at the same time.
Welcome to the forum and enjoy it here. Lots of good people and info.
21st November 2004, 16:59
From the picture attached, I see you are getting an 883C. I'd suggest leaving the jets alone, and changing out the needle to the 1988 sportster needle. the 42 slow jet is plenty for a stage 1 883 and many have found that since the main is not controlled by the EPA, it is plenty large for stage 1 as well. It's the midrange (which is where most spend most of their time, so it's very important to get this correct), that is lean from the factory. The 883 needle is much richer. Either that or get a DynoJet kit and follow the instructions with it.
21st November 2004, 17:11
You won't damage anything but you will get some burps. :welcome
21st November 2004, 18:45
Welcome to the forum, and congrats on the new bike! I see you picked the right color, too.
21st November 2004, 20:30
Where do you get a 1988 needle.
21st November 2004, 20:37
A dealer will have one or can get it. It has a different taper than the newer ones and will give you a richer mix. Can't remeber the part number. Someone here will though.
22nd November 2004, 01:02
Thanks I'm still tring to figure out everything I need.
22nd November 2004, 01:20
Got the pipes on...about 3 hours worth of work. I still have not yet seated the exhaust flanges. They do not sit flush with the cylinder. Is this normal?
The pipes are deisgned for an '04 and was told they would work on an '05.
I have a call into BUB and will wait to see what they say. Any '05 sporty owners, do your flanges fit flush? It looks like the Bub pipes have a little more material than the stock HD which could explain the difference. I am just concerned about leaking. Here is a pick of the semi finished product.
22nd November 2004, 01:24
If I remember correctly, you should tighten the flanges first, then tighten the mounting brackets. I don't know if it will help but give it a try. Unsure about the bubs, but I read somewhere that the new style flanges may need to be replaced with the older style flanges on some exhausts. Hope this helps.
22nd November 2004, 01:46
Thanks. Everything else is till loose. There is is about 1/4 inch gap that remains. I will wait to hear from BUB
22nd November 2004, 01:50
1/4 inch :eek: That's quite a bit. Yeah wait to see what Bub says.
22nd November 2004, 02:06
The Part Number for the '88 needle is HD #29074-88.
23rd November 2004, 02:04
Pipes are on and sound great! It turns out, the flanges on the new sporties do NOT come in contact with the cylinder. I checked it out today at the HD dealer. So I tighted all the bolts and off I went. WOW...ITS A HARLEY!! :clap
Only one problem, I am having some vibration at idle and when shifting that was not there before. BUB said it may be the mounting bracket. Upon further inspection, I only have about 1/8 inch between my forward control and the front pipe. Could this be rubbing when the motor rocks when I shift. If that is the case, I need a cure. Either slightly bend the heat shield or try to move the forward control ever so slightly. :headbang
23rd November 2004, 02:08
The flanges are not supposed to touch the head. I'm guessing your 1/4 inch was normal then. ;) Glad to hear all is good.
5th December 2004, 03:05
I had the same problem with mine ('04), with the heat shield tapping the rear brake lever. I fixed it by taking the brake lever off and then grinding it down to give the proper clearance. I used a 4" angle grinder to start and then fine tuned it with a dremel tool. I then polished back to where it is just as shiny as new and now it doesn't tap at all, even on hard bumps or taking off in 1st while turning left. Take your time and you can maintain almost the exact shape of the original. Give it sufficient clearance though, I had to do it twice before I got enough. Don't be afraid to grind, then ride, and if it still taps, grind some more. good luck
5th December 2004, 03:34
I called Bub and they sent a new mounting bracket. I re-installed the pipes and adjusted a little and am home free. The clearance is still very limited by the rear brake. When I hit a real hard bump, it hits. I may do a little grinding over the winter. It is supposed to be around 55 tomorrow. I would like to ride it for a while to really give it a good test.
Thanks. I love the pipes. Very unique and good look for the bike!!
5th December 2004, 05:28
The 1988 needle is a waste of $$ on mid 90s I believe and later, the newer needles have a richer taper than even the 88 needle..let me find the source.
5th December 2004, 05:40
changing out the needle to the 1988 sportster needle.
Hey shu, does that apply to the '89 or is it a one year thing?
5th December 2004, 07:30
Man those pipes look sweet. Love your avatar also, one of my favorite SNL skits.
5th December 2004, 14:04
'88 needle is PN 27094-88.
6th December 2004, 11:49
'88 needle is PN 27094-88.
I had it written down from a previous poster as HD-29074-88
so which one is right?
8th December 2004, 00:35
I can only speak from personal experience relative to my own 1200R. I put the Cycle Shack baloney cut headers on mine because they produced more torque and more horsepower, in a stock configuration, than any other pipes on the market. Interestingly, the Screaming Eagle slip on was right behind the Cycle Shack header system. The results of the testing can be found on the site at Sportster.org. I have a California emissions model and have yet to remove anything. Some may say the engine runs lean but if so, the pipes and plugs would suggest the engine is running about as efficient as it can as there is very little residue and the platinum plugs look awesome at a light grey. I have seen so many Harley Sportsters that have pipes which would make a chiminey look clean. To me, this is not good as the engine is sending all that unburned fuel right out the back and the fuel efficiency in terms of mileage can't be good. I have found zero malfunctions from a stop to over 100 mph. I think I will leave this one alone........
8th December 2004, 01:27
Sleezy, I just checked it(I have one in the package here). It is the 27094-88.
16th December 2004, 02:36
After 1999 taper is the same, dont waste your money just change out the jets
31st December 2004, 05:34
What does the 27094-88 needle cost?
I hear you can just put a little washer under your stock needle and accomplish the same thing.
You probably don't need to change the main jet. The stock Harley jet is very rich. I hear the EPA does not care about the full throttle part.
So I would look at the needle and pilot jet only and leave the main jet alone.
I had to put a 52 pilot in mine before it would run right. Now I am thinking maybe I should have just changed to the 27094-88 needle. Maybe that was all I needed to do.
2nd January 2005, 03:12
Recently, I picked up a 27094-88 needle, a #45 Pilot and a Pair of SE II Pros for my 05 1200C. Out of curiosity, I measured the new needle in several locations and found it to be fatter than the 05 factory needle. That means it would be leaner throughout the range. I did not install it. Instead, I drilled the EPA plug, installed the SE IIs and replaced the factor #42 with the #45.
The factory-setting for the low speed mixture was 1 3/4 tuns. After warming the Sporty, I found that 2 turns was perfect. I ran the bike for 100 miles and the plugs are now a perfect tan instead of the original white. The Sporty now has a smooth transition from idle to WOT, no farts and a much better bottom end. The "experiment" worked so well, I repeated it on my Son's Sporty.
10th January 2005, 14:31
I did the Screaming Eagle pipes and got a Chrome Horse CV kit that includes all the stuff you need. A couple adj needles, springs, jets, and instructions. Installed a SE air cleaner, made a big difference. I have a friend that owns a stock 883 and when he rode it his jaw hit the ground. :yikes The last I saw of him was his butt heading down to the local stealer to get the parts.
11th January 2005, 02:47
New to forum, have a 2004 stock 883. Driving me nuts with answers I get. Doesn't sound like a Harley. So, want to go cheap as possible for now. Couple guys told me, bang the baffles out, won't hurt anything, without jetting?
I do have a jet kit I bought from JL which more or less stops the burps, and has extra sized jets. Slip on's/??? Do you have to cut the pipe off? at the weld ??? What I want to do is get a set of pipes, with a adjustable baffle. I still need to have inspected when I renew my license. Could fail the bike if to loud. Any advise appreciated.
11th January 2005, 03:26
spend the extra $$ and go with some pipes with baffles and heat shields. They sound, look, and perform better.
V&H, Bassani, D&D, and BUB all make nice pipes. Do some searching, there are many threads about this.
11th January 2005, 16:16
Best bang for the buck is a pair of slipons. CycleShack makes the less expensive altgernative to the HD ones. NO you do not cut your factory pipes, as the name implies the mufflers slip on and off although sometimes "slip" isn't the word I'd use.
After you put the muffler on, I'd first try to fine tune the idle mixture screw. If it idle best with it set between 1.5 and 3.5 turn out, then you may not need to rejet the slow jet. I think the main jet is a 170 and that should be fine as it isn't regulated by the EPA. Does the jet kit you bought have a needle? If so I'd recommend a slightly different way to tune it.
Drilling out the baffles on the stock pipes will help with tone, but I always tell everyone to keep the stocker in stock form just in case for some reason you would have to put them back on.....ticket for noise pollution, changes in EPA regs, etc. No sence in ruining a perfectly fine (but restrictive) set of Muffs. IMO.
12th January 2005, 00:01
I punched out the plugs on my mufflers when I first got it. Still sounded like a Honda, just a loud one. Get the slip on Screaming Eagle II's, they have a removeable baffle and they will make you very happy, and very loud !!!!!! dont forget the rejet
15th January 2005, 21:04
Any truth to just drilling some holes in baffles for extra noise? ie does this damage engine? or need jet adjustment???
16th January 2005, 03:29
I did it with my SEII's made it sound a bit better!!! Didn't hurt a thing!! Already had the Stage I done though!! :D
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