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Hillclimb68xlch
22nd August 2008, 01:46
Yes I feel ignorant to be asking but if any of you have an early 65-69 XLCH please look at the rear of your engine and see which fitting the oil tank IN/SUPPLY hose fits on. I can determine the breather because of the size but the other two have me wondering if I am correct. The fittings on the engine are kind of in line with each other and I have the front fitting going to my oil filter outer ring and returning from the center of the filter to the upper part of the oil tank.

superwarden
22nd August 2008, 01:49
Iron Mick has a good diagram for this, but I will try and explain it.

Top Small port on oil tank connects to the crankcase breather line that comes out behind the cover on top of the transmission.

Large port on the oil tank. The is the return line. The engine end of this is the other port near the transmission. The line goes from there to the external oil filter and back to the large port on the top of the tank.

The bottom port is the oil pump line. This connects directly to the oil pump.

I hope this helps and hopefully Mick will post his diagram.

Hillclimb68xlch
22nd August 2008, 02:02
On my 1968 XLCH both the feed and return oil line fittings are up on the engine case along with the breather fitting, about 3/4 of an inch apart. I understand the crank breather and ran it to the top of my tank.

IronMick
22nd August 2008, 02:10
... which fitting the oil tank IN/SUPPLY hose fits on ...

Maybe this schematic will help ...

Monte03
22nd August 2008, 02:14
Looking at the Motor from the right side (Left to Right)

first fitting in case is Supply IN

second fitting into case (closest to the rear lifter) is Return Out going back to the midway fitting on tank tank.

Lower case Deck 1/4 inch fitting is the Vent to the top of the oil bag.

Hillclimb68xlch
22nd August 2008, 02:19
IronMick - Great to meet you - this is a wonderful site.
I understand the oil line routing, just having trouble determining which is which at the engine.
Thanks for the diagram - but I still need some help.

Hillclimb68xlch
22nd August 2008, 02:25
Looking at the Motor from the right side (Left to Right)

first fitting in case is Supply IN

second fitting into case (closest to the rear lifter) is Return Out going back to the midway fitting on tank tank.

Lower case Deck 1/4 inch fitting is the Vent to the top of the oil bag.

GREAT INFO! Now I know the oil lines are installed correctly, must be having a rough time pushing 60W through the spin on filter - it ran about 45 seconds and just had a few drips coming back in the return line, must take more time to fill everything after a new rebuild.

IronMick
22nd August 2008, 03:34
... must be having a rough time pushing 60W through the spin on filter - it ran about 45 seconds and just had a few drips coming back in the return line, must take more time to fill everything after a new rebuild.

What brand filter are you using? If it is an automotive rather than a motorcycle filter it may be incorrect even if it fits.

superwarden
22nd August 2008, 03:38
Keep in mind ironheads are a low pressure beast as well.

Hillclimb68xlch
22nd August 2008, 11:21
What brand filter are you using? If it is an automotive rather than a motorcycle filter it may be incorrect even if it fits.

IronMick, It is the recommended filter from the V-Twin catalog.

Monte03
23rd August 2008, 22:19
GREAT INFO! Now I know the oil lines are installed correctly, must be having a rough time pushing 60W through the spin on filter - it ran about 45 seconds and just had a few drips coming back in the return line, must take more time to fill everything after a new rebuild.


A 3 dollar \ Trick from a refrigeration man (me) XLCH Nut.
from a supply house pick up a fitting ( 1/8 Male Pipe x 1/4 inch male flare brass fitting with the built in schrader bleed)
I added this to the front of the oil pump/ connect a refrig manifold flare hose with the schraeder piercing head and built in valve that I connect before starting , start the bike and PURGE some oil / air out of the pump...I leave this fitting on at all times..
shut the beast down, remove the hose and screw on flare cap.. all done.., now the oil will push pressure better rather than air casuing any issues..
Mick if you are listening add to your trick posts...

Hillclimb68xlch
23rd August 2008, 23:29
Had it out for a short slow jog about 1 mile up and back, added rocker box oil pressure gauge. Still not happy with the oil flow, I removed the oil filter, full of warm oil, pressure 10-20 PSI at beginning, but fell off to nothing later. On way back valve stem struck in exhaust guide, one cylinder died completely, had to remove and am replacing guide and valve.
Notice oil present inside engine and head but still not in massive amounts........Any ideas?

IronMick
24th August 2008, 01:57
With the rocker cover oil pressure gauge, it is very common for them to read zero once the engine is warmed up.

Hillclimb68xlch
24th August 2008, 02:29
Iron Mick, Thanks for reminding me.
My sporty sat under a blanket for 12 years and it's hard to recall everything I was taught about one - once upon a time - do you suggest moving the gauge to the pump checkball location?

IronMick
24th August 2008, 02:35
Yes. I ran one on the rocker cover for a while plus one at the oil pressure switch at the same time. I remember one or two days when they actually read the same! Mostly the rocker cover location was not reliable. I now run just one, off the o p switch location.

Hillclimb68xlch
24th August 2008, 02:51
Yes. I ran one on the rocker cover for a while plus one at the oil pressure switch at the same time. I remember one or two days when they actually read the same! Mostly the rocker cover location was not reliable. I now run just one, off the o p switch location.

Thanks for your input!

Monte03
24th August 2008, 12:59
I suggest removing the guage and riding the bike,
the K model came out in 1952-53, the Sportster has been in every type of race class there is, not everyone installs a gauge as it will throw you off as the oil gets hot and the pressure is down to nill on the top end..
Do Not Worry about it....
if you read my other reply hear you can add a gauge to the service hose I described as I did so that after bleeding you can see the pressue comming right off the pump, remove the hose and you are done, just change the oil frequently..

jcichacki84
9th September 2008, 00:52
will micks diagram work on a 73 ? im having problems with mine blowing oil out of the vent located under the generator is this due to me putting the oil lines in the wrong location ? or due to me possibly assembling the oil pump wrong ? someone please help me i know there supposed to leaks a little oil but this thing looks like old faithful any help would be appreciated

IronMick
9th September 2008, 01:23
Usually when oil pukes out the vent under the gen it is because oil has leaked past the check valve in the oil pump. This is common on HDs after they have sat unused for a time. If it happens more often than that then it may be a problem with the oil pump. Others will comment on that.

Hillclimb68xlch
9th September 2008, 01:46
I'll finish up my comments - I removed the rocker box OP gauge, and opened up the oil tank while running - the return flow was like water running from a garden hose - a full hose shot in diameter and shooting half way across the tank - no pulsing so now I am happy with the oil flow.

jcichacki84
10th September 2008, 23:33
well i just got done rebuilding the engine and installed new gaskets in the oil pump (is it possable that i assembled the oil pump wrong ? and i also have oil comming out of the primary breather could this be a sign as well ? i need help i want to ride before the season ends

jagdprcp
11th September 2008, 17:26
Does it blow oil constantly or does it stop once it has ran for a few seconds? If it stops after a few seconds, then the check ball in the feed line is letting oil flow past while the bike sits. In that case just top off the oil tank and ride on.

If it keeps pumping oil out, then you have either a blocked return line, sheared key in the pump or an incorrectly assembled pump.

jcichacki84
11th September 2008, 23:50
OK. it keeps pumping oil out now where exactly is the check ball ? and what is the correct line routing and oil pump assembly procedure i know the key in the oil pump is good but i don't know if i assembled the pump correctly because i cant seem to find a book for this year bike and if i do have to rebuild the oil pump is there an easier way of getting the pump out rather than having to pull the engine ?
thanks

Monte03
12th September 2008, 00:32
I'm Jumping in on this late, did you time the breather as per the Manual?
Unfortunately if pre 77, the motor must come out to drop the pump..
the ball check is behind the large fitting (hex), in the book called NIPPLE,pressure switch at the very front of the oil pump, with the proper size wrench you would remove the large hex NIPPLE, there will be a spring and a stainless Ball..
you do not have to remove the motor to remove the pressure nipple but may have to pull the front pipe to gain access.
the inner part of that nut has a 1/8 female pipe thread, some guys adapt a fitting and extend to an oil gauge or an oil sending unit off this port.
hope you are able to resolve this
I tell all to invest in a parts book for their year bike, very valuable to have as it shows parts placement and the changes thru the years

jcichacki84
12th September 2008, 23:46
OK i have a oil gauge coming off the front of the pump (really dumb location you cant see it worth crap) so when i take that apart am i going to replace the ball or the spring or is this a gasket issue ? or could it possibly be that the timing is off because i don't have a book i dint know that you had to time the breather. does anyone know how or have directions? also any suggestions on where to find manuals ebay inst so hot right now ? thanks thanks for your help Jason