Weird issue

[MusclePump]

I got on the bike to leave this evening, turned the key, switched on the Run, twisted the throttle once, pulled out the enrichener half way like always, and pushed Start. I got a quick sound and then EVERYTHING turned off. I had been holding in the start and it wasn't making any sound anymore, and all the lights went off. I said some sort of swear word, turned the key off, turned it back on, then pushed start, and it started up just fine. Made a stop for about an hour, came out, it worked fine again. Now it's parked in my garage. Very strange. Any ideas?

[toe]

Ignition switch flaking out

[chrishajer]

Sounds to me like the load from the starter snapped one of the connectors in the battery. A heavy load, like 100 or so initial amps from the starter motor, will cause something like that. The bus bar or whatever they call it that joins the cells together snaps and creates an open circuit, then it cools off and goes back together. Sometimes it will work again. Lights will typically work, but hitting the starter won't always work, and it kills all the electrical for a while. Did you hear a snap or pop or anything like that when you hit the starter button?

If that did happen (what type of battery and how old is it?) then a load test will tell you if the battery is junk.

Another possibility is any connection anywhere that has to carry a large load, like the starter motor initial draw (not lights or anything like that - those will usually still work until you hit the starter button). That is pretty much just the battery cable connections at the battery, and the positive battery cable where it attaches to the starter motor. Give the cables a good tug after disconnecting them at the battery to see if something is broken or loose. Then while the battery is out you can have it tested.

What year and what kind of bike? I could not tell from your profile.

--Chris

[MusclePump]

2005 883L, battery is only about two months old.

[MusclePump]

Didn't hear a pop or anything, just everything turning off. I don't think it ruined anything; it still all works?

[chrishajer]

Weird problem. The bus bar breaking would be more likely on much older bikes.

Problems don't fix themselves, so SOMETHING happened. I think I would still try the things listed in reply #3 (http://www.xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/showpost.php?p=396970&postcount=3) (it's worth getting a load test on the battery.)

--Chris

[DustyJacket]

Was the engine hot when you did it? (i.e. stopped it recently)

[Gunfighter]

Check your (-) Battery wire, both ends.

[MusclePump]

Was the engine hot when you did it? (i.e. stopped it recently)

Nope, it had been off and in the garage for a couple hours.

[whiffy]

Check the battery connector as it connects to the starter. My bike had the same problem, and it turned out that the starter end of the battery lead sheared off within the insulation. It's a common problem due I think to the battery being rubber mounted and the starter not. The copper lead just work hardens due to the constant small movements and just breaks off.

Whiffi

[gusotto]

All rubber-mount Harleys have a large braided ground strap from the frame to the transmission to ensure a solid ground in spite of the rubber mounts.

The bolt holding the strap to the transmission has been known to fall off, thereby giving intermittent electrical problems. Hard to see being down under. It would be a good and cheap place to check.

[MusclePump]

It's just really strange... it's been started and run three times since, and no problems. Nothing looks wrong, but then again, if it's a screw of something that fell out, I wouldn't know where to look?

[MusclePump]

Gave the bike a pretty full look-over, and nothing looks out of place. Haven't done a load test on the battery, but all else is well. I'm stumped.

[Takingabreak]

Hi.

Ok, It sounds like a loose or weak concetion on one of the battery cable ends.
Check and clean all four point.

[MusclePump]

Gah!!!! I had checked the battery and all looked well, and the bike has run a dozen times just fine. THEN, today when I was trying to leave the gun range, it wouldn't start! Turn the key, no lights, just a weird buzzing when I turned it back to the off position. I opened the side hatch and checked everything (didn't have a screwdriver so I was limited), wiggled everything. Tried again, nothing. A buddy who was shooting came up and I was showing him, and was flipping back and forth, and finally after the fourth time the lights just fired up. I got it home and tried it a bunch and it's fine again. WTF?! If it isn't the battery, what else could it be?

[a45junkie]

the ignition switch, and all the wires going to and from it most likely on the hot side

[Paulie420]

My bike was doing the same thing and tightening the positive AND negative battery terminals fixed it right up...

I think mine were a bit loose tho, but its an easy check... ya know...

[Matt]

Grounds are a possibility. With a voltmeter check from battery negative to crankcase. Key on engine off .030V max is good. Under cranking .5V max is good. If your numbers are higher address the problem (clean connections, add wires- remember Ohms Law.) Works the same way with positive. Many problems occur where the cable and the connector crimp together. Any voltage drop between these must be repaired. Matt

[MusclePump]

the ignition switch, and all the wires going to and from it most likely on the hot side

I don't think it's the switch. If the bike doesn't even light up when I turn the key, it doesn't have much to do with ignition.

I'll try to find the tool and check the power on the battery.

[Joseph]

New here, first time posted, but have been reading for over a year. My 2004 1200C did the same thing. Got on, went through the standard proceedures and snap, Dead as a door nail. Weird buzzing sound from all over the bike. Speedo needle dancing like crazy so I pulled the positive lead and hauled it to the dealer. Poor connection on the negitive terminal and ground. I was told that it happens quite a lot. No proplems since. I don't pull the battery anymore during the winter as you need a third arm and 6 fingers to get to the frame negative bolt and nut. Trying to push the negative cable up the down rod isn't easy either so now it's stored with the tender.

[a45junkie]

well ok but the only thing that the switch doesnt control is the starter and the regulator, but yeah it could be a ground somewhere being a bad connection

[MusclePump]

New here, first time posted, but have been reading for over a year. My 2004 1200C did the same thing. Got on, went through the standard proceedures and snap, Dead as a door nail. Weird buzzing sound from all over the bike. Speedo needle dancing like crazy so I pulled the positive lead and hauled it to the dealer. Poor connection on the negitive terminal and ground. I was told that it happens quite a lot. No proplems since. I don't pull the battery anymore during the winter as you need a third arm and 6 fingers to get to the frame negative bolt and nut. Trying to push the negative cable up the down rod isn't easy either so now it's stored with the tender.

So what was done to fix it? Just tightening things up?

[jamman]

yup answered your own question. start tightening