I posted this before, but some folks here may not have seen it:

04-06 Sportster XL1200 Cam Install

Read the Service Manual prior to performing any work!

Note: This installation was not done on an 883 engine, however, the procedures may be the same. Gasket part numbers may be different. Cam ID numbers are different as per the Service Manual.
______________________________________

Parts and Supplies List:

Cam Set

Gasket, Cam Gearcase Cover
P/N 25263-90D
1 ea

Gasket, Upper Rocker Cover
P/N 17353-89B
2 ea

Gasket, Lower Rocker Box (Metal)
P/N 16800-84
2 ea



Gasket, Center Rocker Box
P/N 17358-84A
2 ea

Anti-seize compound, blue Loctite, 3 cans of spray brake cleaner, paper towels and shop rags
______________________________________

Removing Seat, Fuel Tank, Air Cleaner, Spark Plugs and Coil:

Remove the single screw at the back of the seat. Push the seat forward and then up to detach it from the slots underneath the seat.

It would be wise to remove the fuel tank when it is almost empty of fuel. Turn the fuel petcock valve off. Remove the fuel line attaching to the petcock. Remove the small vacuum line that also attaches to the petcock. Remove the fuel vapor line that attaches under the tank on the right side. Remove the front and rear tank attachment bolts. The tank will then pull out from the top.

Remove the air cleaner, to include the air cleaner backing plate. This backing plate will be attached to both heads by a large bolts.

Remove the spark pugs. (You will later be rotating the engine)

Remove the coil. It is held in place by 2 hex head screws. This will make more room in order to remove the front upper rocker cover.
______________________________________

Removing Upper Rocker Cover, Lower Rocker Box and Pushrods:

Note: Mark all valve train components as they are removed so they will be re-installed in there original locations. We will be removing one rocker cover / box assembly at a time.

Remove the 4 small Allen head screws that attach the upper rocker cover.. Remove the upper rocker cover.

Remove all the small bolts except for the 4 larger black colored rocker arm bolts that attach the lower rocker box to the head. The smaller bolts will include 3 small standard type bolts and 2 small Allen head screws per cylinder. After these 3 bolts and 2 screws are removed, first loosen the 4 larger black colored rocker arm bolts by turning them all in 1/2 turn increments using a criss-cross pattern (this relieves the valve spring pressure evenly). Once loose, remove the rocker arm bolts.

Once these 4 black bolts are removed, the lower rocker cover can be removed. Remove and discard the small rectangle rocker box center gasket.

The rocker arms will not be removed from the lower rocker cover assembly.

Remove the metal lower rocker box gasket from the top of the head and discard it.

Remove the pushrods from the pushrod tubes. Mark these so they will be later replaced in the same location.


Note: The intake pushrods have an orange colored painted band. The exhaust pushrods have a purple band. They are of different length. If yours are not painted ... the intake rods are the shorter rods.

Remove the plastic crankcase breather from the already removed lower rocker cover. It’s attached with 1 torx head screw. Once the breather is removed, the rubber upper rocker cover gasket can be removed and discarded. Mark the breather, as it needs to be installed on it’s original rocker cover. (The breathers are not interchangable between lower rocker covers).

Repeat the previous steps for the other cylinder.

Clean all parts with brake cleaner.
______________________________________

Removing the Cam Gear Case Cover:

Note: The cam gear case has 11 Allen screws of various lengths. They will need to be replaced back in the same holes from which they were removed. So, there proper location will need to be marked upon removal. Suggest you make a drawing of the cam gear case on a piece of cardboard, and then stick them into the carboard in the proper orientation.

Place a flat drip pan under the cam gear case. It will leak oil when removed.

Remove the Allen screws holding the gear case on and place these Allen screws on your piece of cardboard.

Pull the case out slightly so that it unattaches itself from it’s gasket and the engine case. You will note that it will not come completely off because the foot peg / foot brake pedal attachment support (it’s painted black) will interfere with the case. Loosen the 2 large Allen head bolts that attach this support. You do not need to completely remove these bolts. Loosening will allow the support to move outward far enough so the cam gear case can then be removed.

Note: The case’s bushing alignment with the camshafts has a VERY close tolerance. That means that the case will need to come straight out. There will be no side-to-side or up-down play in the case. Once the case’s bushings are clear of the bushings on each cam, the case can be slightly rotated out of position.

You will need to remove a rubber oil vent line that attaches to the rear area of the case before the case can be completely removed (see picture below). Since the clamp holding this oil line cannot be reused, you will need to purchase a new hose clamp when the case is re-installed.

http://f5.putfile.com/6/16817270457.jpg

Remove and discard the gasket. Clean the case with brake cleaner.
______________________________________

Removing the Cams:

Place the transmission in 5th gear.

Rotate the engine by turning the rear wheel so that all cams are lined up exactly as shown in the diagram below.
This is done best if the bike is placed on a lift in order to get the back wheel off the ground so it can be rotated by hand.

http://x402.putfile.com/4/10520111672.jpg

Once all cams are perfectly lined up, remove all 4 cams by pulling them straight out. Do not remove the #5 pinion gear (This gear actually is held in place with a large nut)

Note: The hydraulic lifters do not need to be removed. They will remain in there bores once the cams are removed.

Once all cams are removed, DO NOT rotate the engine. This will make it much easier to install the new cams in there proper position.
______________________________________

Cam Identification:

Prior to replacing the cams, they should be cleaned with a spray of brake cleaner and then lubricated thoroughly with engine oil to include the cam lobe and drive gear.

#1 cam (Rear Exhaust Cam)
#2 cam (Rear Intake Cam) (cam with double gears)
#3 cam (Front Intake Cam)
#4 cam (Front Exhaust Cam)

Note: The “V” markings on the cams are not used for timing purposes. Disregard them.

Again, refer to the diagram above while installing the cams.
______________________________________

Installing the Cams:

Insure that the timing mark on the #5 gear (pinion gear) is still pointing directly at the center of the #2 cam’s bushing (see picture below). Again, the engine should not have been rotated since the cams were removed.

http://x402.putfile.com/4/10520102388.jpg

Note: The lifters can be moved slightly up into there bores with you fingers while you are installing the cams which will allow each cam to slide all the way into the bushing in the engine case.

Install the #1 cam. Insure that the slot marking is also pointing directly at the center of the #2 cam’s bushing.

Install the #3 cam. Insure that the slot marking is also pointing directly at the center of the #2 cam’s bushing.

Install the #2 cam. As you install this cam, insure that all 3 timing marks (dots) on this cam line up with the timing slot markings on the other 3 gears (#1 cam, #3 cam and the #5 pinion gear). Again, refer to the diagram below.

Now install the #4 cam. Insure that it’s timing mark (dot) line up with the dot on the #3 cam.

All timing marks should now be alligned exactly as in the photo below:

http://x402.putfile.com/4/10520133636.jpg
______________________________________

Re-Installing Cam Gear Case:

Clean all spilled oil with brake cleaner prior to re-assembly.

Clean the surface of the engine case that mates to the cam gear case with brake cleaner.

Prior to re-installing the cam gear case, attach the new gasket to the engine case with a little contact cement. That will keep the gasket in place while installing the cam gear case.
Re-attach the rubber oil vent line to the cam gear case with a new worm clamp prior to installing the case.

Apply some oil to the bushings in the gear case. Be careful not to scratch these bushings!

Gently install the cam gear case. Remember, it goes in straight. There is no side-to-side or up-down clearance.

Once the cam gear case is fully in position, tighten the Allen screws in a criss-cross pattern.

Note: Although the Service Manual does not specify to use anti-seize compound on these cam gear case mount bolts, I feel it is nessesary to prevent galling.
______________________________________

Re-Installing All Other Components:

Re-assemble all other parts in reverse order of disassembly.

Note: When installing the metal lower rocker box gasket, note that the raised bead of the gasket is facing up.

Note: Remember to install those 4 larger rocker arm bolts in the lower rocker box before installing the smaller bolts / screws. Tighten those rocker arm bolts in a sequence so they will tighten down evenly together. The lower rocker box will sit slightly off the head prior to tightening the bolts.

Note: When installing the lower rocker box, insure the pushrods are in a fully down prior to tightening the rocker arm bolts. This will cause the least amount of spring pressure on the rocker arms prior to tightening. (turning the rear wheel will verify this)

Note: Insure all bolts/screws are tightened to the proper torque spec.

Note: Blue Loctite was also used on the rocker arm bolts even though not specified in the Service Manual. Be sure they are free from any oil prior to applying Loctite.

When in doubt … Refer to the Service Manual

Thank you!

You're definately the most helpful person on this forum. Again, thanks. I'll do this myself next time. You 'da man.

I'm glad this is now a sticky.
This is one of the best written and illustrated how-to's I've ever seen.
My hat's off to you.

good job Turbota. you always have great info.

Will these direction be the same for an 2001?

I beleive they are the same for any Evo solid mount Sportster. I have not had a chance to crack open the gearcase on a rubbmount to see those.

I am in the process of putting my Sporty back together after installing SE Bolt-ins and I am having one hell of a time getting that rod back through one of the rocker arms. I turned the engine untill the pushrod was at it's lowest point and it is still not letting the rocker arm set low enough that the rod will go through. Any ideas (Please)?

thanks turbota I have the manual but your pics help alot hopefully I will be undertaking this task this winter

Pics and write up are awsome. Really helped out when I did mine last weekend!!! Thx

The andrews cams website talks about changing the #2 cam DRIVE GEAR on my 05 883, its pressed on, when it this necessary?

In 2000, HD changed the pitch of the pinion gear that drives the oil pump. Cams are the same, so if you buy used cams (or the wrong new ones) you'll have to have the pinion gear swapped out. That's what's pressed on. I think it's more trouble than it's worth so just get the right gcams to start with.

Great post Turbo. Did you put stockers back in or did you upgrade?

I removed the SE .551" cams and installed a set of Zippers Red Shift cams (see signature). They take your quiet stock cams, then grind off the lobes and then weld on new lobes .... Sounds kinda screwy, but if your stock cams were quiet, the new cams will be too.

Wow,
thing must run like a beast! I may have to contact you when I decide to start upgrading my motor for serious power.

I would Assume we are talkimg about the "Bolt in" Cams here, correct ??

Great info! Just would like to add a tip. I used a tool (looks a like a screw driver with a magnet on the end) to hold the lifters up while installing the new cams.

Hello all I'm about to install Andrews N3's into my '05 1200 custom and was wondering why you would put the bike into 5th gear only reason why I'm asking is i haven't read it in the manual or the instructions that came with the cams i know the manual is more about rebuilding the engine but i would think the instructions would say something about that any way if someone could let me know i would appreciate it thank you in advanced.

I posted to put it in 5th gear so it would be easy to rotate the engine by moving the bike back and forth ... remember, you want the lifters on the cylinder you are working on in there full down position when installing the rocker box on that cylinder.

Thank you i figured it had to do with that. Thanks for all the great info on this site I've learned alot and I know I will continue to do so.

Will N3 cams work with 883 heads, on a 2005

Will this work on a 2003 883C?

Turbota- Nice work. Having done cams on pre-rubber evo and ironhead, this procedure will work on pretty much evrything.

I just wanted to add something I read about and used during re-assembly.

Buy four long bolts four inches or so, same thread as cam cover fasteners &
cut off head/grind end on bench grinder to round them like a pushrod.

Thread them into holes of cover mating surface on engine, then hang gasket on them & slide cam cover over them. Bolts hold cover up & act as centering device too. Remove & replace with proper fastener when satisfied everything is ready to torque up.

An alternative to cementing gasket, re-usable.

Again, nice work.

Turbota- Nice work. Having done cams on pre-rubber evo and ironhead, this procedure will work on pretty much evrything.

I just wanted to add something I read about and used during re-assembly.

Buy four long bolts four inches or so, same thread as cam cover fasteners &
cut off head/grind end on bench grinder to round them like a pushrod.

Thread them into holes of cover mating surface on engine, then hang gasket on them & slide cam cover over them. Bolts hold cover up & act as centering device too. Remove & replace with proper fastener when satisfied everything is ready to torque up.

An alternative to cementing gasket, re-usable.

Again, nice work.

Great tip !

Good tip,
I used straws. kabob skewers work good too!:D

Here is another little tip if you want the cylinders to stay put after removing the heads ... (for whatever reason you would need to remove just the heads):

BTW ... those are the stock headbolts

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p158/Turbo6ta/DSCN0549.jpg

what happened to all the pics?

Repost with Photos:


04- Sportster XL1200 Cam Install

Read the Service Manual prior to performing any work!

Note: This installation was not done on an 883 engine, however, the procedures may be the same. Gasket part numbers may be different. Cam ID numbers are different as per the Service Manual.
______________________________________

Parts and Supplies List:

Cam Set

Gasket, Cam Gearcase Cover
P/N 25263-90D
1 ea

Gasket, Upper Rocker Cover
P/N 17353-89B
2 ea

Gasket, Lower Rocker Box (Metal)
P/N 16800-84
2 ea

Gasket, Center Rocker Box
P/N 17358-84A
2 ea

Anti-seize compound, blue Loctite, 3 cans of spray brake cleaner, paper towels and shop rags
______________________________________

Removing Seat, Fuel Tank, Air Cleaner, Spark Plugs and Coil:

Remove the single screw at the back of the seat. Push the seat forward and then up to detach it from the slots underneath the seat.

It would be wise to remove the fuel tank when it is almost empty of fuel. Turn the fuel petcock valve off. Remove the fuel line attaching to the petcock. Remove the small vacuum line that also attaches to the petcock. Remove the fuel vapor line that attaches under the tank on the right side. Remove the front and rear tank attachment bolts. The tank will then pull out from the top.

Remove the air cleaner, to include the air cleaner backing plate. This backing plate will be attached to both heads by a large bolts.

Remove the spark pugs. (You will later be rotating the engine)

Remove the coil. It is held in place by 2 hex head screws. This will make more room in order to remove the front upper rocker cover.
______________________________________

Removing Upper Rocker Cover, Lower Rocker Box and Pushrods:

Note: Mark all valve train components as they are removed so they will be re-installed in there original locations. We will be removing one rocker cover / box assembly at a time.

Remove the 4 small Allen head screws that attach the upper rocker cover.. Remove the upper rocker cover.

Remove all the small bolts except for the 4 larger black colored rocker arm bolts that attach the lower rocker box to the head. The smaller bolts will include 3 small standard type bolts and 2 small Allen head screws per cylinder. After these 3 bolts and 2 screws are removed, first loosen the 4 larger black colored rocker arm bolts by turning them all in 1/2 turn increments using a criss-cross pattern (this relieves the valve spring pressure evenly). Once loose, remove the rocker arm bolts.

Once these 4 black bolts are removed, the lower rocker cover can be removed. Remove and discard the small rectangle rocker box center gasket.

The rocker arms will not be removed from the lower rocker cover assembly.

Remove the metal lower rocker box gasket from the top of the head and discard it.

Remove the pushrods from the pushrod tubes. Mark these so they will be later replaced in the same location.


Note: The intake pushrods have an orange colored painted band. The exhaust pushrods have a purple band. They are of different length. If yours are not painted ... the intake rods are the shorter rods.

Remove the plastic crankcase breather from the already removed lower rocker cover. It’s attached with 1 torx head screw. Once the breather is removed, the rubber upper rocker cover gasket can be removed and discarded. Mark the breather, as it needs to be installed on it’s original rocker cover. (The breathers are not interchangable between lower rocker covers).

Repeat the previous steps for the other cylinder.

Clean all parts with brake cleaner.
______________________________________

Removing the Cam Gear Case Cover:

Note: The cam gear case has 11 Allen screws of various lengths. They will need to be replaced back in the same holes from which they were removed. So, there proper location will need to be marked upon removal. Suggest you make a drawing of the cam gear case on a piece of cardboard, and then stick them into the carboard in the proper orientation.

Place a flat drip pan under the cam gear case. It will leak oil when removed.

Remove the Allen screws holding the gear case on and place these Allen screws on your piece of cardboard.

Pull the case out slightly so that it unattaches itself from it’s gasket and the engine case. You will note that it will not come completely off because the foot peg / foot brake pedal attachment support (it’s painted black) will interfere with the case. Loosen the 2 large Allen head bolts that attach this support. You do not need to completely remove these bolts. Loosening will allow the support to move outward far enough so the cam gear case can then be removed.

Note: The case’s bushing alignment with the camshafts has a VERY close tolerance. That means that the case will need to come straight out. There will be no side-to-side or up-down play in the case. Once the case’s bushings are clear of the bushings on each cam, the case can be slightly rotated out of position.

You will need to remove a rubber oil vent line that attaches to the rear area of the case before the case can be completely removed (see picture below). Since the clamp holding this oil line cannot be reused, you will need to purchase a new hose clamp when the case is re-installed.

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p158/Turbo6ta/DSCN0475.jpg

Remove and discard the gasket. Clean the case with brake cleaner.
______________________________________

Removing the Cams:

Place the transmission in 5th gear.

Rotate the engine by turning the rear wheel so that all cams are lined up exactly as shown in the diagram below.
This is done best if the bike is placed on a lift in order to get the back wheel off the ground so it can be rotated by hand.

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p158/Turbo6ta/DSCN0473.jpg

Once all cams are perfectly lined up, remove all 4 cams by pulling them straight out. Do not remove the #5 pinion gear (This gear actually is held in place with a large nut)

Note: The hydraulic lifters do not need to be removed. They will remain in there bores once the cams are removed.

Once all cams are removed, DO NOT rotate the engine. This will make it much easier to install the new cams in there proper position.
______________________________________

Cam Identification:

Prior to replacing the cams, they should be cleaned with a spray of brake cleaner and then lubricated thoroughly with engine oil to include the cam lobe and drive gear.

#1 cam (Rear Exhaust Cam)
#2 cam (Rear Intake Cam) (cam with double gears)
#3 cam (Front Intake Cam)
#4 cam (Front Exhaust Cam)

Note: The “V” markings on the cams are not used for timing purposes. Disregard them.

Again, refer to the diagram above while installing the cams.
______________________________________

Installing the Cams:

Insure that the timing mark on the #5 gear (pinion gear) is still pointing directly at the center of the #2 cam’s bushing (see picture below). Again, the engine should not have been rotated since the cams were removed.

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p158/Turbo6ta/DSCN0474.jpg

Note: The lifters can be moved slightly up into there bores with you fingers while you are installing the cams which will allow each cam to slide all the way into the bushing in the engine case.

Install the #1 cam. Insure that the slot marking is also pointing directly at the center of the #2 cam’s bushing.

Install the #3 cam. Insure that the slot marking is also pointing directly at the center of the #2 cam’s bushing.

Install the #2 cam. As you install this cam, insure that all 3 timing marks (dots) on this cam line up with the timing slot markings on the other 3 gears (#1 cam, #3 cam and the #5 pinion gear). Again, refer to the diagram below.

Now install the #4 cam. Insure that it’s timing mark (dot) line up with the dot on the #3 cam.

All timing marks should now be alligned exactly as in the photo below:

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p158/Turbo6ta/DSCN0476-2.jpg
______________________________________

Re-Installing Cam Gear Case:

Clean all spilled oil with brake cleaner prior to re-assembly.

Clean the surface of the engine case that mates to the cam gear case with brake cleaner.

Prior to re-installing the cam gear case, attach the new gasket to the engine case with a little contact cement. That will keep the gasket in place while installing the cam gear case.
Re-attach the rubber oil vent line to the cam gear case with a new worm clamp prior to installing the case.

Apply some oil to the bushings in the gear case. Be careful not to scratch these bushings!

Gently install the cam gear case. Remember, it goes in straight. There is no side-to-side or up-down clearance.

Once the cam gear case is fully in position, tighten the Allen screws in a criss-cross pattern.

Note: Although the Service Manual does not specify to use anti-seize compound on these cam gear case mount bolts, I feel it is nessesary to prevent galling.
______________________________________

Re-Installing All Other Components:

Re-assemble all other parts in reverse order of disassembly.

Note: When installing the metal lower rocker box gasket, note that the raised bead of the gasket is facing up.

Note: Remember to install those 4 larger rocker arm bolts in the lower rocker box before installing the smaller bolts / screws. Tighten those rocker arm bolts in a sequence so they will tighten down evenly together. The lower rocker box will sit slightly off the head prior to tightening the bolts.

Note: When installing the lower rocker box, insure the pushrods are in a fully down prior to tightening the rocker arm bolts. This will cause the least amount of spring pressure on the rocker arms prior to tightening. (turning the rear wheel will verify this)

Note: Insure all bolts/screws are tightened to the proper torque spec.

Note: Blue Loctite was also used on the rocker arm bolts even though not specified in the Service Manual. Be sure they are free from any oil prior to applying Loctite.

When in doubt … Refer to the Service Manual

Thanks for posting this. Although I have a solid mount, I do appreciate the ability to see it in pictures.

sweet thanks man

Hi Turbota,

Is there an updated number for the rocker box gasket? Maybe a "C" suffix?

Thanks,

Matt

Will N3 cams work with 883 heads, on a 2005Yes, I've got them; they're great! http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/cigarman/cigarman.gif

Matt ...

As you may know, I have been in the Philippines without my bike now for more than a year ... Sorry, I can't answer your question.

Hi Turbota,

Is there an updated number for the rocker box gasket? Maybe a "C" suffix?

Thanks,

MattI believe the latest version is the 'c' suffix: 17353-89C.

What kind of performance improvement should I expect by fitting N3 Cams. I realize the available rpm's will increase. Does it affect low end torque? This would be my first engine upgrade, having changed out the pipes V&H longshots) and Stage 1 SE air.

What kind of performance improvement should I expect by fitting N3 Cams. I realize the available rpm's will increase. Does it affect low end torque? This would be my first engine upgrade, having changed out the pipes V&H longshots) and Stage 1 SE air.Available rpms? What do you mean? The improvement I noticed particularly was an increase in low to mid range torque.

Available rpms? What do you mean? The improvement I noticed particularly was an increase in low to mid range torque.

The splurge that I read on the Andrews N3 cams talked about an increase in rpm to 6500!:dunno Low to mid range torque is what interests me. Thanks:)

The splurge that I read on the Andrews N3 cams talked about an increase in rpm to 6500!:dunno Low to mid range torque is what interests me. Thanks:)Well, I must admit that with the N3s in its very easy to hit the rev limiter in first, if I don't change up into 2nd pretty smartish, but I think they're very much a low to mid range cam. Certainly compared to hotter cams that only come in at all at higher revs. If you really want to concentrate the improvement on the low end, you could look at the N2. Talk to Dan at NRHS, he'll be able to advise you.

Hello Turbota
Can you indicate what is the tightening torque forv the nut holding the crank pinion.
I removed it to replace the sheared key on 1200 sportster 91 and cannot finf this torque in my book.
mkg or Nm would be even better, but that may be too much to ask!
Thanks.

Is it absolutely necessary to remove the heads to do this job?

guillaume ... I never had to remove the pinion gear nut when installing new cams in my 04, so I don't have a clue as to the torque value ... maybe someone else can help you. Ask your question in a new separate thread in this "Bottom End" forum.

CosmicHD ... If you read the "How-To" here, you will see that there is no mention of the need to remove the heads to change cams, however, the rocker boxes need to be removed in order to relieve pressure on the cams placed on them by the lifters.

Is it absolutely necessary to remove the heads to do this job?No, it is most definitely not necessary to remove the heads. Whoever told you that? It is, however, recommended to remove the rocker covers (a different prospect altogether).

I am working on my 91 rubbermount, and am stuck at removal of the cam gears...all of the gears pulled out with the cover when i removed it, and then all but one of the gears came off of the cover....now im stuck w/ the #2 (Rear intake cam gear)...or I should say, it is stuck...it will not just slide out of the cover like the rest did. Do I need to drill out the rivets from the small cover (i dont know what its called, but its the part with the 5 speed symbol on it)?

First off...Brilliant guide! An absolute must for anyone swapping out cams. Made it much, much easier than following the manual.

A few bits of feedback and some comments...


I think you need to remove the front muffler and right side footpeg/brake pedal. Its worth the extra five minutes this takes for the ease of removing the cam cover.

Its also worth pulling forward and off its peg the plastic wiring connector cover under the tank. I couldn't get the rocker covers off until I did this.

If you have an A/C other than stock I think you can do this job without removing the A/C. Try it with it on and only remove it if you need to.

The cam cover can be a REAL pain to get off. I spent half an hour on this. It just wouldn't pull out. Its very tempting to jam a screwdriver in the gap once it moves a little - DONT do it, it will chew up the mating surfaces. I just got a grip at the top left and bottom right and pulled while wiggling it slightly; it took about half an hour but eventually it moved.

I don't really think you need to disconnect the oil vent line inside the cam cover. If you have removed the footpeg then you can swing the cover to the left and tie it up with some string to keep pressure off the pipe.

When fitting the gaskets use blobs of grease around the edges beneath the gaskets to hold them in place.

Some of the bolts are hard to get to with a fat torque wrench. Consider investing in a low profile one, otherwise you will end up guessing the torque for about 1/3 of the bolts.

Remember there are THREE pipes on the petrol tank. I forgot the vacuum pipe to the petcock; it ran for a minute then died and I thought something dreadful had happened until I remembered that darned little vacuum pipe.

REMEMBER THE BIKE IS IN 5th GEAR BEFORE TRYING TO START IT.


Hope some of these ideas are useful to anyone doing a cam swap.

Fox