View Full Version : First Dyno run on my '05 1200C


Rondall
21st February 2005, 19:05
http://xlforum.net/photopost/data/500/963DSC01083.JPG

Mods so far are the SE .551 cams, SE 7000 ignition module, #48 pilot, Dragtron II A/C w/K&N filter, and drilled baffles in the stock mufflers. Next up will be a thunderslide install. I'm pleased so far. Unfortunately was not able to do a baseline before the mods. Anyone know the stock RW #'s?

xl1200r
24th February 2005, 04:43
I don't know of the stock RW#'s (I used to), but you grpah looks to me like you need a serious exhaust to take advantage of those cams. You're on a roll!!!

Turbota
24th February 2005, 04:56
H-D states that a bone stock 04-05 1200 will dyno at approx 59 rwhp @ 5,600 / 68 ft. lb @ 3,600

Rondall
24th February 2005, 05:15
I don't know of the stock RW#'s (I used to), but you grpah looks to me like you need a serious exhaust to take advantage of those cams. You're on a roll!!!

I'm currently leaning towards the Cycle Shack slip-ons. Not really enough $ right now for a full system.

nsc
24th February 2005, 05:46
I bought some D&D slipons. You would be impressed. They sound great and you'll notice instantly that your bike feels like it can breath.

Mechano
24th February 2005, 09:53
http://xlforum.net/photopost/data/500/963DSC01083.JPG

Mods so far are the SE .551 cams, SE 7000 ignition module, #48 pilot, Dragtron II A/C w/K&N filter, and drilled baffles in the stock mufflers. Next up will be a thunderslide install. I'm pleased so far. Unfortunately was not able to do a baseline before the mods. Anyone know the stock RW #'s?

What a lean midrange! :yikes

Did you raise the needle?
Look at the air/fuel ratio in the midrange with it's lowest peak at 4000rpm.

And look how it conditions the power and torque curve between 2700 and 4500rpm.

You really need a good needle and raise it the right amount to obtain a constant near or slighty over 13:1 air/fuel ratio.

What main jet did you use?

sportymark
24th February 2005, 10:20
My 04 made: 71.6 Torque and 80.5 HP with basically the same mods (.551 cams SE ignition and SE air filter kit and SE exhausts) the only difference is that I have the Mikuni flat slide carb conversion. So with correct jetting (or a 44mm carb) you should beat this, because you have a freer breathing engine with you air cleaner and exhausts.

Mechano
24th February 2005, 10:50
H-D states that a bone stock 04-05 1200 will dyno at approx 59 rwhp @ 5,600 / 68 ft. lb @ 3,600

Turbota,

http://www.xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2616

looking at your dyno run, quite perfect for the use I like to do with my XL, I need some more infos about the carb mods...

What needle did you use, the Dynojet one?
What needle raising clip position?
Did you use stock slide spring?

I remember you have a Dynojet kit, did you use the Dynojet emulsion tube or the stock one?

Mechano
24th February 2005, 10:52
My 04 made: 71.6 Torque and 80.5 HP with basically the same mods (.551 cams SE ignition and SE air filter kit and SE exhausts) the only difference is that I have the Mikuni flat slide carb conversion. So with correct jetting (or a 44mm carb) you should beat this, because you have a freer breathing engine with you air cleaner and exhausts.

Stock heads?

Rondall
24th February 2005, 15:59
What a lean midrange! :yikes

Did you raise the needle?
Look at the air/fuel ratio in the midrange with it's lowest peak at 4000rpm.

And look how it conditions the power and torque curve between 2700 and 4500rpm.

You really need a good needle and raise it the right amount to obtain a constant near or slighty over 13:1 air/fuel ratio.

What main jet did you use?

I haven't changed the main yet. Dyno Mike at the dealer recommended I start with the 185 when I install the thunderslide. The air/fuel ratio actually says it's running a little rich at 4100 where it dips to 11.5 to 1.

Turbota
24th February 2005, 16:24
Turbota,

What needle did you use, the Dynojet one?
What needle raising clip position?
Did you use stock slide spring?

I remember you have a Dynojet kit, did you use the Dynojet emulsion tube or the stock one?

DynoJet kit
170 main (now changed to a 175 since I was too lean at WOT during that dyno run ... 13.8 to 1)
45 slow
DynoJet needle (C clip on the 4th groove)
DynoJet emulsion tube
Stock slide spring and slide (slide hole was drilled per the DynoJet instructions)
2 1/2 turns on the idle mixture screw

I believe my SE II mufflers are hurting my high rpm HP. Have a set of RB Racing 2-1 exhaust now on order.

I should be seeing 90rwhp (I am 6rwhp too low) ... My torque is ok

barry1967
24th February 2005, 16:29
I would personnaly not use the D&D exhaust. They have a straight through baffle and I lost a lot of low to midrange power with them. I then switched to the cycle shack slip-ons and it all came back.

My stage 1 mods gave me 74 HP and77ft lbs so you can see that your pipes are most surely holding you back.

Thunderslide is not really neccesary. Proper jetting is all you really need.

raysheen
24th February 2005, 17:29
What a lean midrange! :yikes

Did you raise the needle?
Look at the air/fuel ratio in the midrange with it's lowest peak at 4000rpm.

I'm sure that it was just a typo, but for the newbies here, I think that you mean to say rich midrange right? the ratio is air to fuel so the lower the number the richer you are running...just to clear that up for someone who is just learning, not trying to nitpick since most people knew what you were talking about.

Shamdog
4th March 2005, 17:11
What compression are you at on this run?

Confused89
4th March 2005, 17:29
Mechano, it is just like gear ratios, it wil get you everytime.

Shu
4th March 2005, 18:00
Rondall,

You're run looks perfectly typical for that set up. Your air fuel ratio is slightly on the rich side below your main jet. But not so much that it is hurting your power by any measurable amount. Your slow jet may be a little big, might try a 45 and re-adjust your idle mixture screw and not do the Thunderslide just yet. One thing to keep in mind, if you are going to replace your pipes anyway, then I wouldn't spend another dime tuning the carb right now...get the pipes and then final tune it and be done with it. I have an extra Thunderslide kit at home, I may be willing to let you try it before you buy it type thing if you honestly think it'll make a difference. But I doubt you will need it. I run a DynoJet kit and have mine dialed is so good that I would never even think about installing this Thunderslide in my bike.

One other thing you are going to want to do is use the edybrake on the dyno and hold steady loads/speeds and check your air fuel ratio in several rpm places, like 2100, 3200, 4000 rpms. This will let you know how the carb is tuned under normal riding conditions.

Shu
4th March 2005, 18:46
By the Way, I thought I would post an example of how much effect the exhaust system has on your air fuel ratio's. Obviously the red is before and the blue is after and notice no other major changes except the exhaust were made.

http://xlforum.net/photopost/data/500/212Mark_Dyno_Air_Fuel_Ratio.jpg

Rondall
5th March 2005, 05:48
What compression are you at on this run?

Stock, 9.7:1.

Shu, thanks for the offer, but I was able to piece a kit together from left over parts at work. Yes, I work for a H-D dealer. :shhhh Thanks also for the advice. Our service department installs 48's whenever they do a stage one on Sporty's and 50's on BT's. What specific benefits would there be in going to a smaller pilot?

Shu
8th March 2005, 18:08
Stock, 9.7:1.
Our service department installs 48's whenever they do a stage one on Sporty's and 50's on BT's. What specific benefits would there be in going to a smaller pilot?

You want to set your pilot jet right or you will most likely have a more difficult time in tuning your idle mixture and end up with carbon build up in your engine. I wouldn't just call it a smaller pilot jet, but rather the right pilot jet. A 48 slow jet on a new sportster may be correct, but on the pre '04 bikes, it would be too rich for most applications.

xl1200r
8th March 2005, 18:18
Am I the only one that reads that first graph as getting very rich in the midrange, not lean???

Confused89
8th March 2005, 18:56
No you are not the only one. Shu and myself noticed too. It was just a little misunderstanding, thats all.

Shu
8th March 2005, 19:32
And it really isn't that rich and doesn't appear to be costing too much power. My advise is still to get the pipes on that he wants, and then fine tune the carb on the dyno paying particular attention to the a/f ratio's at steady speed holds and then concentrate on how the carb transitions through a wide open throttle run.

pquirk
8th March 2005, 19:35
Am I the only one that reads that first graph as getting very rich in the midrange, not lean???
Well, if the ratio is A/F then a larger denominator (F) would cause a dip in the graph. Straight forward in my book. If it's F/A, then the opposite is true. I is a sixth grade graduite :smoke . But I don't know how the machine does the calculation, I'm not a dynotune graduite. :laugh

happyman
29th March 2005, 15:34
looks like too much fuel to me. not an expert but there is a lot left on the table by looking at that dyno run. its rich till maybe the last five hundred rpm.