Hi all,

I'm just disasembling my engine. Top part of the engine is already off.
But what is the best way to lock the engine to remove the final drive, primary drive and clutch nuts.

Everything I tried ended up in rotating the flywheel :frownthre

Thank a lot for your help

You need a bar to lock the sprockets together. Basically, a piece of steel cut to length so it jams against the clutch basket teeth and front sprocket teeth so that when you turn the sprocket nut CCW, it gets tighter and locks the primary.

HD also sells tools to do the same thing, but the steel bar works.

--Chris

Here is the tool. I made my own. Pretty simple.

This is a picture of the 2004+ primary, but the idea is the same. You need to make yourself #1 in this picture;

http://www.chrishajer.com/bike/XLF/lockingtool.jpg

When you rotate the nut clockwise on the crank to tighten it, the bar jams tighter between the front sprocket and the clutch basket, locking them together.

--Chris

I re-torqued mine last night.
Not sure what the torque was when I removed it, but I wanted to put the higher torque on it to be safe.
After reading some of the post I just needed to check it. I feel better knowing that I now have the updated torque on the nut.

If anybody needs the tool for locking the sprocket you can borrow mine. It's homemade, but it works.

Hi
Here is how I managed to remove mine...
Good luck

7470

Hi
Here is how I managed to remove mine...
Good luck

I would NOT recommend that method. See the contact between the chain and the top of the primary?

http://www.chrishajer.com/bike/XLF/prim.JPG

If that nut is really tight, you can crack the cases there: you're forcing the chain up into the primary (engine) case. I saw it happen on a 1989 where someone did something like that.

Whatever you use to lock the chain to the sprocket or the sprockets together needs to NOT cause contact between the chain and the cases.

BTW, sorry you have an '87. I just got a list of parts together to fix mine and it's over $1000 for repairing the loose magnets on the rotor.

--Chris

I would NOT recommend that method. See the contact between the chain and the top of the primary?

http://www.chrishajer.com/bike/XLF/prim.JPG

If that nut is really tight, you can crack the cases there: you're forcing the chain up into the primary (engine) case. I saw it happen on a 1989 where someone did something like that.

Whatever you use to lock the chain to the sprocket or the sprockets together needs to NOT cause contact between the chain and the cases.

BTW, sorry you have an '87. I just got a list of parts together to fix mine and it's over $1000 for repairing the loose magnets on the rotor.

--Chris

I did mine the same way, but I put the Nylon piece on the rear sprocket at the bottom. WOW Chris, a grand? I did mine last summer for around $250, I got a stator off of Ebay for around $50 new, and almost $200 for the rotor. Sorry to hear about your high costs, that sucks!!

Does anyone have the measurement for length for that bar?

WOW Chris, a grand? I did mine last summer for around $250, I got a stator off of Ebay for around $50 new, and almost $200 for the rotor. Sorry to hear about your high costs, that sucks!!
Stator, rotor, inner hub, transmission clutch gear, Zippers trap door and double-row bearings gets it up there pretty quick. I don't actually know the total yet. I just gave the list of parts and my CC number to the dealer and told them to order it up. Can't wait to see the total :frownthre

I want this to be the last time I have to fix it. Man those 86-90 clutch & charging setups suck...

--Chris

Does anyone have the measurement for length for that bar?

Yes I would also appreciate some specs on that device. :tour

Hi there,

just right now I prepared a piece like that. It worked very well for opening the nut on the sproket shaft.

Mine is from aluminium. Size: 105mm x 30 mm x 4 mm

Tomorrow I will figure out if it will work for the clutch and primary sproket.

Metric is better than 4.13"X1.18"X.157".

1985 XLCH???

Does anyone have a schematic of the primary? I put in a new stator this weekend and was almost all buttoned up when I found the dreaded extra washer! It's a 1-1 1/2 insh washer with the word "out" on it. For the life of me I can't recall where it goes.

BTW I just used a air gun to take my stater side nut off.

Brian

That is a belleville washer and goes under the clutch hub nut. It acts as a lockwasher. You need it in there.

Sorry so late on the reply :)

--Chris

I am in the process of doing this as well to my 79. Albeit over the time that I have which is not much. My clutch hub nut is loose and the hub still needs pulled. Before I pull the hub is it a good idea to bust the engine sprocket nut loose?
It has right hand threads and loosens to the left correct?

I have seen the factory pullers that look as though they fit into the grooves of the hub. Sounds like it's safe to use a homemade bar to pull it. No need to spend 40.00 or more if I can do it on my own. The plastic step tool runs that much at the dealership!!! Just made my own and are very carefull of the case when using it.
Waiting for warmer weather impaiently.

NBF

Native Broncofan...not too sure about 79 vintage, but a shop manual and a parts and assembly manual are usually good things to have. But, from what I know about 91-99, and 00-03 models one cannot get the clutch hub off without taking off the sprocket nut off...the primary chain cannot be removed without taking the engine sprocket and the clutch hub together.

Anybody out there with experience on '79 to help this guy out...his Broncos lost badly here in sunny so. cal. sunday!

"...even a blind hog finds an acorn now and then..."

Well I have also done this not long ago. In fact I´m still working on it. It is a 94 and here are some pictures of the work. http://www.drapela.ch/GETRIEBE

Well I have also done this not long ago. In fact I´m still working on it. It is a 94 and here are some pictures of the work. http://www.drapela.ch/GETRIEBE

Aldra what caused that trans damage so i won't end up with the same mess your in.

Aldra what caused that trans damage so i won't end up with the same mess your in.


Well, I don?t know excactly what the reason was, but I when I drove home one night from work, I switched to the 4th gear and suddenly it jumped out. I pushed it back and nothing happened. I mean I was in neutral. Tryed again to change to the 5th and it worked. After I stopped and tryed slowly 1st, 2nd, 3rd which worked proberly then 4th =neutral and 5th worked again. I tryed to listen carefully to any strange noise in the gearbox (which is quiet difficult with my Screamin Eagle Exhaust) but I heard nothing spezial. I went home slowly and carefully and began to work on the gearbox as you can see in the pictures. Now I'm still waitng for the spareparts. 1st gear om mainshaft and the 4th shifter fork. All th pieces I found in the case at the bottom.

Maybe it was already a little bit before the problems began. I had sometimes some troubles to come in the 4th. That is all what I can tell you.

Ciao ALex

I know this is late but....

Buy a 4" brass door hinge, it works great.

Although an air impact wrench is the best tool, if you have one.

Does anyone have the measurement for length for that bar?

Wow! That was some massive damage! Fabulous photos of the destruction. I wonder which failed first...the shift fork or the dog ring. Any thoughts?

Aldra, sorry to hear about the damaged tranny. Just wanted to say those are some great pics of the whole primary etc. I was trying to save them to help me in my 90" conversion when it comes time to re-assemble the primary, as I couldn't get pics of mine before I took it apart. Couldn't save the larger ones though when clicking on them.
Hope you keep them posted awhile. :)