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bassboy311
30th September 2008, 16:42
A while back I did the Brembo caliper upgrade on my bike at the suggestion of Whittlebeast. It is one of the best modifications I have done to my bike and highly recommend it to anyone who wants serious stopping power, especially if you have a single disc front brake. After doing the upgrade I was naturally curious just how much better the brakes were over the stock set up. So I created a course on a road near my house where I could measure stopping distances in a real world, controlled environment. A stock single disc XL will go from 60-0 in 134ft (per HD specs). After some practice I managed to do 60-0 in 108ft. 25 feet of extra stopping performance is a pretty big difference! Not to mention how much more responsive and resistant to fading the brakes are compared to stock. If you want more stopping power and can scratch together the funds, I highly recommend the Brembo upgrade.

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r132/bassboy311/IMGP0966.jpg
If you look closely you will see points of reference every 25ft
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r132/bassboy311/IMGP0963.jpg
This is my best attempt at 108ft (measured to the front tire)
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r132/bassboy311/IMGP0973.jpg

whittlebeast
30th September 2008, 17:03
Way Cool Glad you like the results. What pads and what MC did you end up using? Were you using the rear brakes in those tests? Were you pulling in the clutch durring the tests?

AW

bassboy311
30th September 2008, 17:38
Way Cool Glad you like the results. What pads and what MC did you end up using? Were you using the rear brakes in those tests? Were you pulling in the clutch durring the tests?

AW

Stock 1/2 MC (2005 XL) & Lyndall Gold Plus pads. At first I used the rear brake but, as I'm sure you already know, all the weight shifts to the front of the bike and the rear wheel just locks up. I found the best results came with using only front brake and leaving the clutch engaged. Engine compression seems to do a better job of slowing down the bike than the rear brake IME. Regardless, I really hope everyone on the forum practices braking like this from time to time. It is one of those things that you have to learn to do, as evidenced by the fact that my stopping distance got better the more I did it. And its kinda scary too, so the more you do it the more comfortable you become. Its one thing to do this on an open road, but when it really counts (i.e. when a car is stopped in front of you) the experience is priceless.

SCAGNETTI
30th September 2008, 18:07
Excellent write up! i was considering swapping to the new calipers this winter! i put a dual setup with 05 road king calipers on,which works well, but i am not fully happy with. i have been looking for a set of those calipers but can't seem to find a good price on them. yet. did they bolt right up or did you have to change the brake line?

ParrotHead
30th September 2008, 18:08
Great info. Mind sharing the cost and part numbers?

Bob F
30th September 2008, 18:23
Mind sharing the cost and part numbers?

More details and close up photos please.

bassboy311
30th September 2008, 18:34
Excellent write up! i was considering swapping to the new calipers this winter! i put a dual setup with 05 road king calipers on,which works well, but i am not fully happy with. i have been looking for a set of those calipers but can't seem to find a good price on them. yet. did they bolt right up or did you have to change the brake line?

The Brembo calipers are a straight bolt-on item. You will also have to purchase the floating rotor that goes with this setup. Honestly, if you already have a dual setup using the Road King calipers you should first try upgrading to the Lyndall brake pads. They make a WORLD of difference over stock pads and may just get you the performance you want without switching out calipers.

I didn't mention it before but all the parts I used are stock parts from the Vrod. Read the links posted below.



More details and close up photos please.

caliper 44732-06a $137.60
rotor 44405-07 $153.60
brake line roughly $30.00
banjo bolt 41752-06a $13.00

There are several threads concerning this upgrade. Assuming your master cylinder is at least the 1/2 version, you will only need to buy the caliper, floating rotor and perhaps a SS brake line, all of which will run you about $300.00 to $350.00 depending on where you buy the parts, I bought all of my stuff from Zanotti. The threads below are where I got all the information and ideas.


http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/showthread.php?t=51610&highlight=brembo
http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/showthread.php?t=274658

CBAS5
30th September 2008, 20:15
108 ft is a great stopping distance. That beats most sport bike numbers.

bassboy311
30th September 2008, 20:29
108 ft is a great stopping distance. That beats most sport bike numbers.

Really? I wouldn't have thought that. It is definately a good distance for our heavy XL's. Now if I can just do it when it really counts and keep myself from eating a bumper.

Takingabreak
30th September 2008, 20:30
So.....what part Broke?

It looks like you were BRAKING just fine, but you said BREAKING as in something broke.

So, what broke?

bassboy311
30th September 2008, 20:42
So, what broke?

Heh?!?!?!?! Nothing broke. I'm not following you sir.

Lenster
30th September 2008, 20:49
Heh?!?!?!?! Nothing broke. I'm not following you sir.

He's being a smart ass. Brake is to slow down and stop. Break as in broke something into two or more pieces.

KaotikEvo
30th September 2008, 20:53
tsk tsk jeffy, play nice and no moe sass fum dat mouf. :)

Erik
30th September 2008, 21:11
Good write up indeed.

as for an emergency stop situation, when you apply the front brake real hard :

Sit up straight, and try looking at the horizon, this way your bike will be more steady in the manouvre.

Just my 50 cents (inflation sucks).

Terp84Alum
30th September 2008, 21:14
Your bike is bad ass. I thought this setup wouldn't work with a laced wheel. Did you have any issues getting everything to fit?

bassboy311
30th September 2008, 21:37
He's being a smart ass. Brake is to slow down and stop. Break as in broke something into two or more pieces.

I figured as much, just that I couldn't find anywhere that I used the wrong spelling.

bassboy311
30th September 2008, 21:45
Your bike is bad ass. I thought this setup wouldn't work with a laced wheel. Did you have any issues getting everything to fit?

Why thank you! This setup works fine with a laced wheel. It's close though... you need to make sure the wheel is true. I would guess there is only a 1/4 inch of clearance between the laces and the caliper. Eventually I will get a cast wheel simply because I ride so damn hard and want the extra peace of mind, but for now the laced wheel is holding up.

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r132/bassboy311/DSC00273bucket.jpg

CBAS5
1st October 2008, 00:22
Really? I wouldn't have thought that. It is definately a good distance for our heavy XL's. Now if I can just do it when it really counts and keep myself from eating a bumper.

Yes, the best stopping 60-0 distances MCNews ever recorded was 104.8 for a 2006 triumph speed triple. Of the top ten stopping distances ever recorded #6-#10 are small variations from 108 to 109 ft. #10 is a 2002 v-rod with a stopping distance of 109.5 ft.

bassboy311
1st October 2008, 02:07
Yes, the best stopping 60-0 distances MCNews ever recorded was 104.8 for a 2006 triumph speed triple. Of the top ten stopping distances ever recorded #6-#10 are small variations from 108 to 109 ft. #10 is a 2002 v-rod with a stopping distance of 109.5 ft.

Wow. That is surprising. Makes me second guess my results, which to be honest are approximate anyway. I can't say for sure I applied the brakes at the starting point everytime since you have to take reaction time into account. Regardless my results are probably +/- 3 or 4 feet, which is still impressive I suppose.