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View Full Version : Stripped Exhaust Stud??? What Now


kilroykarr
5th October 2008, 04:57
Somehow i !!!!!!!!!:censor stripped the rear top stud on my bike. the first third of the bold is stripped and i cant get two nuts on it to try and back it out so i can put a new one in. what are my options to get this thing out, before i mess it up more. there isnt much room to work on it since it is the top one.:frownthre

milmat1
5th October 2008, 05:56
How much IS sticking out ?

Enough to get ahold of ? How about Tack wleding a nut onto the end of it ??

If not the only real option is to drill it. And it's hard to do on the bike. A Left Hand drill Bit will likely bring it out !

kilroykarr
5th October 2008, 06:06
the whole stud is still there. i would say the first 7 threds are messed up.

johneod75
5th October 2008, 06:23
Yeah you need to get with someone that can weld and have them weld a nut in place. My buddy and I have had to do it on numerous occasions at the aluminum fab shop I worked at.

Takingabreak
5th October 2008, 07:56
I think we are getting a bit confused here.

Are you saying that the stud is still in the head and the threads on the STUD have stripped.

OR

Are you saying the thread FOR the stud, the one in the head the stud threads into, are stripped?

Mattbastard
5th October 2008, 14:48
That happened to my bike after taking the exhaust off countless times. It started going south when I was taking the exhaust off, then just spun there not coming off at all. I needed to use an air hammer from the left side of the bike beating the hell out of the stud. Finally from reefing and using an impact gun on the nut it finally come off but the threads were shot. I wound up drilling out the stud, but broke the bit off in there. (wait, it gets worse) Then when trying to drill it out more the other bit broke. FFWD about 2 hours, I was tapping a 3/8" bolt tap into the aluminum about 1/2" into the head. This was as far as I could go with it cause the rest was full of broken drill bits and exhaust stud remains. I just wound up using a 3/8" bolt to hold that side of the exhaust header in place.

What I would do if I were you is take the head off so I had alot of room to work. Take ALL the exhaust studs out. Replace them with 1/4" X 20 thread bolts with the heads cut off (not the studs that change pitch to 1/4" X 28) and use regular 1/4" X 20 lock nuts. That fine thread is the reason the threads go to crap.

Lenster
5th October 2008, 15:55
Because the studs are an interference fit, I would definitely go with having an nut welded on to the stud to try and remove it. If it breaks off, you NEED to invest in the JIMS stud extractor guide. Here's a pic of it in use on my '06. You don't need to remove the heads if it is on the rear cylinder.

http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/2372/dsc0032ab1.jpg

Good luck! These things are a bitch!! Take your time.

Fe Head
5th October 2008, 16:06
Since the affected stud is still protruding AND the exhaust is off there are several approaches to back the stud out.

As you said you can get one nut on fully. I would do that and then clamp very tightly a small vise grips length-wise to the stripped part of the stud and after really heating up the area ouround the stud in the head with a Oxy/Acetylene torch if available or a propane one if not.

Then back the nut up against the vise grip's jaws and continue to turn the stud out.

The heat will expand the aluminium faster than the steel stud - hopefully.

Cheers;

gearhead1972
5th October 2008, 16:08
you could try a Stud remover (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00904458000P?mv=rr) first

Lenster
5th October 2008, 17:16
you could try a Stud remover (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00904458000P?mv=rr) first

http://s7.sears.com/is-viewers/dhtml/images/blankimg.gif

I've tried this style of stud remover. From my experience there is not enough clearance to the fins for them to be of any use on a sporty.

racerwill
5th October 2008, 17:19
I would have already welded nut on the stud and used a wrench to remove it....

a stud remover will also work if there's enough room....

Ww

kilroykarr
5th October 2008, 23:42
messed with it alittle today. bought some new nuts to see if i could get a nut started on, no luck. so i guess i will try to see if i can find someone with a welder. you think there is a mobile welder that can come to my house?
i bought a new stud so should be ready to go if i can get the thing out.

DogBunny
6th October 2008, 02:54
Take a look at this:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00990116000P
You hammer this thing on your stud, it cuts into the stud and has reverse threads, so when you back it out it grips even more. Will fit in a tight space. My local Sears also had a similar thing by a different company.
I have an exhaust stud that is stripping and is about to completely go, so I'd like to know what you end up doing.

seajay
6th October 2008, 15:51
you could try a Stud remover (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00904458000P?mv=rr) first

That stud remover worked for me,but,the head was off the bike.

GBag
6th October 2008, 16:06
messed with it alittle today. bought some new nuts to see if i could get a nut started on, no luck. so i guess i will try to see if i can find someone with a welder. you think there is a mobile welder that can come to my house?
i bought a new stud so should be ready to go if i can get the thing out.
You could call a mobile welder but expect to pay. The other option for welding would be to go to a rent all place & to get one & do it your self. Assuming you know how to weld.

hmiller
6th October 2008, 16:42
I've had luck at my local hardware store with some oddball hardware. They have a section of bolts that are about half as thick as normal bolts, I'm not sure what the technical name for them is though, if you can find them, you might be able to fit 2 on there to back it out.

My other thought is...can you fit a slightly smaller die on the stud to rethread it to a different size, then either back it out or use different size bolts? Not sure if a die will fit in the tight space though, and if it does watch the fillings.

steelworker
6th October 2008, 17:39
Take a look at this:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00990116000P
You hammer this thing on your stud, it cuts into the stud and has reverse threads, so when you back it out it grips even more. Will fit in a tight space. My local Sears also had a similar thing by a different company.
I have an exhaust stud that is stripping and is about to completely go, so I'd like to know what you end up doing.

That looks like the set I've got (http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchCmd?text=stud+extractor&action=search&storeId=10001&catalogId=10151&langId=-1#), Dogbunny. You don't need to hammer it onto the stud - you just put it over the stud, and it has three rollers inside that grip the stud as you turn it. The more force you use, the tighter they grip. They work well, and need less clearance around them than the old style stud extractors (they're the size of a normal socket).

I'm surprised to see that Sears have different part numbers for "fractional" and metric studs. Due to the design of the extractors, one set will work on either, i.e. 1/4" - 6mm, 5/16" - 8mm, 3/8" - 10mm and 7/16" - 12mm

thatbikerguy
6th October 2008, 18:56
Check out sears "Stud Removal" tool

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10153_12605?keyword=stud+removal&gobutton.x=15&gobutton.y=20&gobutton=find

Guess I'm late...

DogBunny
6th October 2008, 19:13
That looks like the set I've got (http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchCmd?text=stud+extractor&action=search&storeId=10001&catalogId=10151&langId=-1#), Dogbunny. You don't need to hammer it onto the stud
My bad, thanks for the clarification.
Here's the hammer-on one:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00946338000P
Thanks to ThatBikerGuy for helping to find it. Nice to know there are options, and these have got to be cheaper than hiring a mobile welder, plus you can keep on re-using them.

Lenster
6th October 2008, 19:52
After you break the stud off flush with the head using ANY stud remover, use the tool from post #7.


Hopefully this post will reverse-jinx you and your stud comes out fine. If not, see above. After many, many heat cycles, these studs are bonded to the heads, and as mentioned earlier, are also and interference fit (they don't like to come out). Use heat as recommended by FE Head when using your stud remover.

kilroykarr
7th October 2008, 04:49
Thanks for all the ideas guys. I was getting some work done on my car today when I saw the matco guy back by the service bays. I thought to myself, I bet this guy will know.:D 26 dollars later I have a socket stud extractor that he was 100% it would work. Said if it doesn’t work he will take it back.

So I run straight home put this thing on the end of my 3/8" socket and in seriously 10 secs the stud is out.:tour I couldn’t believe how easy it came out. Like butter. I bought a pack of six studs from a buddies shop the other day and put all new studs in I was so excited :banana. Has three little tumbler things in it and grips tight.

http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/toolcatalog.jsp?cattype=T&cat=2222&page=1ꂽ

Matco guy was soooo nice, gave me his card and said it i ever need anything to call and he could swing by my house. also if i have any questions about any things like this to call. what a guy.

DogBunny
7th October 2008, 06:03
You sold me. I like that you can just buy the one and not a whole set. Thanks.

Lenster
7th October 2008, 11:47
So I run straight home put this thing on the end of my 3/8" socket and in seriously 10 secs the stud is out.:tour I couldn’t believe how easy it came out. Like butter.

My reverse-jinx worked! Glad to hear they came out with no problems. Did you use heat?

steelworker
7th October 2008, 12:03
Thanks for all the ideas guys. I was getting some work done on my car today when I saw the matco guy back by the service bays. I thought to myself, I bet this guy will know.:D 26 dollars later I have a socket stud extractor that he was 100% it would work. Said if it doesn’t work he will take it back.

So I run straight home put this thing on the end of my 3/8" socket and in seriously 10 secs the stud is out.:tour I couldn’t believe how easy it came out. Like butter. I bought a pack of six studs from a buddies shop the other day and put all new studs in I was so excited :banana. Has three little tumbler things in it and grips tight.

http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/toolcatalog.jsp?cattype=T&cat=2222&page=1ꂽ

Matco guy was soooo nice, gave me his card and said it i ever need anything to call and he could swing by my house. also if i have any questions about any things like this to call. what a guy.

Glad you got it sorted. Those socket type extractors are the dog's bollocks - highly recommended. You (hopefully) don't need that kind of tool too often, but they make a difficult job simple if you have them when you do need them.

Mischief
26th October 2008, 17:07
What part # did you buy from the matco guy? Was it the one for the 5/16 bolt? Just want to make sure as I will be talking to the matco guy tomorrow.
Thanks in advance. This site is AWESOME!

Flamin883
26th October 2008, 17:34
Good job you dodged a major pain in the A$$

a coating of antisieze on the threads of the stud, any steel bolt going into aluminum will prevent the gauling effect. a corrosion like substance that virtually welds the steel hardware to the aluminum. just be sure to make sure it is a very light coating. I wipe clean the first couple of threads on the bolt especialy if it is 1 that will or is close to botteming out. ANTISIEZE is your friend especially if you use less than 1/2 the amnt of what you think you need. i usually use th brush to put a dab on the threads and spread it onto/around the threads with finger. using just the brush pute enough on to do around 5 bolts