Is there an option for gear driven cams on a Sporty?

What's the cost analysis? Is it worth it?

I may want to start bracket-racing with her next year....so consistency will be an important factor...

Presently, I have a Weisco 10:1 conversion kit, with no work done on the heads at all...

I plan on doing SOME headwork this winter, and I am considering cams.....

1200 valves?!?!?

Lap the ones I have?

I definately have to do lifter springs...valve guides...maybe more in the rocker area....

What do you think? What should I plan for??

They are already gear driven.

They are already gear driven.

Yup.....in fact untill the TC88 and V-Rod came along all Harley cams were geardrive.
I sh!t can'd the chaindrives in my Twinke for an S&S 570 gear drive set.
Don't need no stink'n chains and tennsioners to wear out.:smoke

Chuck, you have been here long enough to know that we will spend 3000 of your dollars faster than you can. Figure out how much you have first. After you know how much you have in h.p./tq then you can decide what next. After the dyno run we can start working on the plan.

I haven't spent much time in the bottom end of ANY Sporty...

Thanx for the enlightenment...

So, its already gear driven....which is good...

Now what's the best cam that will be street-smart, yet race-ready? I generally ride as a cruiser......but want the SPANK when I need it....

I know its a trade-off somewhere, but again, I want reliability (and a smoke off the line)

I haven't spent much time in the bottom end of ANY Sporty...

Thanx for the enlightenment...

So, its already gear driven....which is good...

Now what's the best cam that will be street-smart, yet race-ready? I generally ride as a cruiser......but want the SPANK when I need it....

I know its a trade-off somewhere, but again, I want reliability (and a smoke off the line)


since you only want to bracket race, your really only racing your dial in time.
really you to figure long run, cams work in very specific manner. torque, midrange, topend. and coices between but not one that can give you all

Like lager said you will be trying to equal your dial in time bracket racing, so you could just run your stock cams if you want. Once you become consistent with your times and get some runs under your belt then you can up the performance with some cams.

Remember though that when you upgrade your times will be quicker and you'll adjust your dial in accordingly. There are a lot of things to take into consideration when bracket racing and setting your dial in, atmospheric conditions, track conditions, elevation. It's a fun sport if you get into it.

"Is there an option for gear driven cams on a Sporty?"

Yes, cams or NO cams!:doh

Is there an option for gear driven cams on a Sporty?

What's the cost analysis? Is it worth it?

I may want to start bracket-racing with her next year....so consistency will be an important factor...

Presently, I have a Weisco 10:1 conversion kit, with no work done on the heads at all...

I plan on doing SOME headwork this winter, and I am considering cams.....

1200 valves?!?!?

Lap the ones I have?

I definately have to do lifter springs...valve guides...maybe more in the rocker area....

What do you think? What should I plan for??

I don't understand....
Weren't you a big advocate of leaving stock cams in an engine? You and I had a few discussions about headwork vs. cam swaps in the past. It's like you've woken up a totally different person. Next thing you know, you'll be doing burnouts!!!!!:dunno

but as far as cams for a "street" bike which you can spank occaisionally, I'd have to say no bigger than .536's. Right now, I am very happy with my .490" V4's. If I let out the clutch with a tiny bit too much throttle, the torque really surprises me. I have SE 1200 heads (which according to NRHS aren't any big deal anyway, and flow just about the same as a Stage 1 883 head) and the .490's fit them fine. I'd have to go Stage 1 or 2 to get any benefit out of .536's...and then I wouldn't feel it until 4000 rpms anyway.

Now what's the best cam that will be street-smart, yet race-ready?
[Flame suit]
Honda V-Tec....or maybe a Toyota VVT-i...of course Toyota doesn't make bikes so.... :roflblack :laugh
[/Flame suit]

[Flame suit]
Honda V-Tec....or maybe a Toyota VVT-i...of course Toyota doesn't make bikes so.... :roflblack :laugh
[/Flame suit]
:roflblack :roflblack

Chuck,

With the stock 883 heads, you will gain about 5 hp by installing the SE 497 cams. You need about 10:1 compression or greater to run those cams or larger. It is best to have the heads set up to flow with whatever cam you choose though so you get the best gains from the cams. The 497 cams is a good one for street strip application as is the 536. The 497 is a bolt n cam and the 536 would need better valve springs. If you are going to massage your 883 heads like Rottenralph, then I would recommend a set of valve springs from S&S because they are stock diameter and can handle up to 640 lift.

Did I read somewhere that this guy works at a HD shop?

I haven't spent much time in the bottom end of ANY Sporty...

Thanx for the enlightenment...

So, its already gear driven....which is good...

Now what's the best cam that will be street-smart, yet race-ready? I generally ride as a cruiser......but want the SPANK when I need it....

I know its a trade-off somewhere, but again, I want reliability (and a smoke off the line)


Take out the valves to 1200 size and add an Andrews N-4 cam.
Should give you 1 HP per Cube.
I cruise with this combo majority of the time and can still spank my
buds while giving them a 1 bike lead.

Did I read somewhere that this guy works at a HD shop?
Some kind of shop :wonderlan

Did I read somewhere that this guy works at a HD shop?



Yup .. this is the beauty of an open forum....

If ya stick around for a while ya get enough info to form your own opinions on people ...

and you can see how well they read the manual .... :shhhh

I'll betray my age when I say there is no substitute for cubic inches. Well, yeah, there is but it ain't cheap! Matt