http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PA260059.jpg

Fab'd some motor mounts off my son in law's iron head. Used .125 steel plate. Same frame spacing as the chrome moly frame. Corresponding engine holes appear to measure the same with a vernier caliper as well.

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PA260061.jpgb
Measured distance from lower front mount hole to rear evo mount 15-1/8.

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PA260060.jpg

Marked the frame. I can shorten the front mounts and relocate the engine forward as an option. Not sure yet.

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PA260063.jpg

Rear mount measures 9% incline from vertical. The diagonal brace tube that runs under the engine will interfere with the sump on the evo. I will have to cut it out and review other bracing options. Not sure if it is even needed as this is not a drag bike. Spoke with Dan Dunn (NRHS). Aaron Wilson runs a similar frame which didn't have the brace. I believe it was made for an evo motor. He went 169 at Bub's. I can cut the entire rear mount arrangement off and fab up a new one or chop this one and adapt to the evo. Not sure if I want to do that just yet. Always an option.

I started this thread on the Drag Racing portal as I was trying to ID the manufacturer of the frame to get some of the basic questions answered. What front end was it designed for, what rear tire/wheel combo. I was initially concerned about engine offset but it appears centered. I can always move mounts around if that is an issue.
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PA190029.jpg

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/1cd2_1.jpg

I got a note identifying the frame as made by Bonnie Truett in the late 70's. I sent Bonnie an e-mail and I am awaiting a reply.
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PA190032.jpg
It was made for an iron head sportster engine. I will have to modify it to fit an NRHS stage 3 1350cc engine that I am building. I am using an S1W Buell white lightning for a donor bike.

I lined the front mount hole on the engine with the hole in the mount plate. Transfered the dims to the frame. Leveled everything up and the measurements appear perfect. I will kick everything around before I make any cuts. There are a bunch of options but I am of a mind to keep it simple, get it together and then play later.
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PA260068.jpg

Looking good Joe. You gonna keep it rigid, or are you gonna put a swingarm on it?

Looks like a lot of room for a rear tire in the back...:geek:geek:geek

This was a single engine fueler frame. Used an 8"Firestone car slick on a 15" aluminum wheel. Riding one was an adventure. Aaron Wilson's frame is wide in the rear as well. I am going to leave it rigid for this year. Next year, who knows? There is a photo of his bike (381 APG)posted in "Bub's Meet 2008 Report" thread.

well it sounds like you know what yr doing, or at least fakin it real good :) i'm assuming yr makin this to race not to be street legal? looks like a cool frame i look forward to the progress

This is a Bonneville bike only ... maybe a pass or 2 at Maxton but on that pavement I am not sure that this frame will work ... When I rode a rigid panhead on the street (1970's) a bump would drive your rectum up to your should blades and Maxton has plenty of bumps. I have the motor in the frame and it is centered. The engine C/G is 5/8" off to the cam side of the case separation and that is dead center in the frame. Rear mount is fab'd and the diagonal tube is cut out and reversed to clear the crank sump. I will take some photos and include later.
JD

Joe, mine is a Truett-osborn frame and it's identified as such on the plate behind the motor.

I'll take some detailed pics of it and send them to you.

The seat pan and fuel tank, I suspect, are T&O supplied pieces. They fit the bike perfectly. They're made from aluminum.

Mine has lots of little brackets and tabs that yours is missing, to mount the seat, tank, and other things.

The bike was as stable as sitting on your sofa at 170mph. Very, very aerodynamic as well. I could really get down low and behind the tach. I found a little crevice through the fork tubes to look through.

The wide rear is really the only bad thing about the chassis, from an LSR point of view. You can, to some extent, pull your knees up and tuck them in, although it's hard on the right side because the only place to tuck them already has an exhaust pipe sitting there.

I just barely finished the bike before the Bub meet. The motor was disappointing, making only 129hp, but I had no time to figure it out, so I just went with it (a twin to this motor in the S1 made 136hp). I was astonished to finish my first pass and learn I had just run a little over 170. The bike is so stable and easy to ride that I really did not think I had gone that fast, I was expecting them to tell me 150 something.

So anyway, with a properly tuned motor, I expect it to run mid 170's.

Then it's on to nitro and see if I can't put it over 200.

Then maybe I'll think about a fairing. Oh, and my 1650 motor.

One big problem with an Evo motor in that chassis is the primary chain adjuster. It wants to run into the frame. I'll take some pics and show how the problem was solved. I don't like the solution but it seems to work.

Really, really, a well designed and well made chassis. It's just made for drag racing, hence the wide back end. But it's awfully damn slippery for a naked bike.

There are things you can do to it to make it more aerodynamic. I was out of time, and did only one of them, but there are others I could do. I'll tell you privately, maybe you can guess by looking at the photos.

http://users.wildblue.net/awwilson/bub2008/dscf1857.jpg

cool!...........

Aaron,
I got a note that this frame was made by Bonnie Truett in the late 1970's. Your frame must be a later model made for an evo motor. I would appreciate any help you could provide. I will post some photos later.
Joe

Joe,

No, mine was made for an ironhead as well. But modified for an Evo.

I just need some time to take some things off and snap a few pics. I'll try to get to it this weekend.

I didn't even notice the lack of rear suspension when I was riding it. I think the chassis is so long that it just kind of becomes a giant spring.

Like I said, though, the bike is really, really stable. I felt 100% confident, like I could've taken my hands off the bars if I wanted to. It was just zero drama at a buck seventy. I don't think 200 would be any issue at all for the chassis.

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PA280070.jpg

Rear mount photo.

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PA280072.jpg

Ready to be tacked.

Joe,
I didn't even notice the lack of rear suspension when I was riding it. I think the chassis is so long that it just kind of becomes a giant spring.



I'm sure it will be OK for the salt, but it's gonna be a wild ride at Maxton!!

Some of these patches are an inch or two higher than the surrounding concrete...
http://www.frsengineering.com/mx46.jpg

http://www.frsengineering.com/mx49.jpg

This patch is right at the timing traps when you're at top speed...

http://www.frsengineering.com/mx51.jpg

...and the concrete isn't smooth at all!!

I know Joe is aware of these conditions, but I just posted these pics for anyone that isn't familiar with Maxton.

Yeah, Scott, you may be right. I've never been to Maxton.

Joe, I think I see one big difference between our frames. Your frame backbone jogs a little where it connects to the rear hoop, that leads back to the axles. I believe mine is straight. So in other words, my last section of the frame backbone points straight at the rear axle.

Here's another pic of mine:

http://users.wildblue.net/awwilson/team08small.jpg

Yeah, Scott, you may be right. I've never been to Maxton.

Hmmm, I've been called names before, but.... LOL

Oops, sorry, wasn't paying attention :(

Aaron,
For the record, Scott and Randy are best friends. They worked together in California for years.

The surface at Bonneville in '07 was rougher then Maxton and it had ruts that pulled you sideways. Maxton is just bumps. I have the rear shock set really stiff and I dont notice the ride at all. I do stay as far left as I can and miss the long concrete seams that upset the bike sideways. That said the fastest I have been at Maxton is 150 and I expect to go 170 with this frame/motor. If it is really rough I will have some engineering to do. An interesting development. The S1 wheel bearings are not one inch like an XB. They are 25mm. I have to redo the axle to .984 and rethread to 24mm X 1.5. Oh, well.

Did they ever pave the gravel traps in the shutdown area at Maxton?
The timing trap looks much nicer than '02.

Sam

Did they ever pave the gravel traps in the shutdown area at Maxton?
The timing trap looks much nicer than '02.

Sam

Sam, they have done a lot of repaving on the whole track. This is the shutdown area now...

http://www.frsengineering.com/mx52.jpg
http://www.frsengineering.com/mx53.jpg
http://www.frsengineering.com/mx55.jpg

The return road still looks like the original surface...

http://www.frsengineering.com/mx57.jpg

Joe, I think the bumps get much worse with speed. This guy has told me that he has had all three wheels off the ground on his faster runs...

http://www.frsengineering.com/mx41.jpg

Randy,
Is that Tom Schaefer's side car rig?

Randy,
Is that Tom Schaefer's side car rig?

Yes it is Joe.

Joe, the rear axle on my T&O frame bike is 7/8" if I remember right, with a 3/4" thread, can't remember if it's NF or NC. But anyway, I made sleeves for the bearings on each side. The sleeves have a lip on the outside so they don't fall in. I made them out of aluminum, using my CNC and then the lathe to get a perfect fit.

I made the axle 1" out of chrome moly bar stock and gun drilled the 9/16. Threaded the ends 1/2 x 14. Came out perfect. Opened the frame holes to 1". The S1 axle adjusters fit the 1x2" rectangular tubing perfectly. The fun began when the axle wouldnt fit through the wheel bearings or the adjusters. Turns out tube frame Buells have a 25 mm (.484) axle not 1" which is what XB Buell have. I ASSUMED that the S1 did also. Not as bad as it could be. I can turn the axle down to match the S1 OD of .484. The threads on the S1 are 24 mm x 1.5. I cannot cut metric thread on my lathe so I may have to make a bastard size nut. 24 mm x 14 thread per inch.

It's another expence but why not just change the bearings to fit your axel. Then everything will be standard. I like that 1" axle better anyway.

Larry

Didn't check on interchange. But experience has taught me that it is tough to find inner race with standard dims and outer race with metric.
Joe

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PB020113.jpg

Intake S1W head

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PB020112.jpg

Exhaust S1W head

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PB020109.jpg

Chamber S1W head

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PB020114.jpg

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PB020117.jpg

I had to cut the diagonal frame brace shorter. It interferred with the crankcase sump on the evo motor. I put in a cross brace and doubled back the cut off tube. Allows me to maintain some diagonal bracing integrity. I may add a pan in the front under the crankcase. Not sure if it is overkill or not.


http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PB020122.jpg

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PB020107.jpg

Quick shop made engine stand

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PB020121.jpg

I opened the axle slots to 25mm.

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PB020116.jpg

As the S1 axle adjusters bottomed out before full travel. This is the same on the S1. I added 5/8" to the 1x2 box tubing. Now there about 2' of adjustment available.

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PB030118-1.jpg
I had machined swingarm caps. Look a lot better then the cast pieces.
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PB030119.jpg
Axle is turned down to 25mm (.982) matching the stock Buell S1 diameter.
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PB030117.jpg
Axle and spacers came out perfect. Wheel is dead center in the frame.

Nice work Joe, you building that at the airport or at home?:tour

Looking really good!

I am building it in my shop ... I originally built it as a 24 x 25 ft garage but it is now filled with 4 motorcycles, a 55 chevr, lathe, 3 welders and a pantograph. I guess it is no longer a garage but a shop. I might have to add on soon.
Joe

I have a lot of respect for you LSR guys....... I'd love to see more pics as you build and run this one.......

Ww

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PB060005.jpg
Cross brace mod all welded up.
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PB060007.jpg
Set up the engine in the frame. Leveled and plummed them to ensure good alignment. Drive sprocket is aligned with rear wheel sprocket. I should tack it all up but I will wait until I get the front end on and everything is even and on the same track. A good friend is making me a sleeve adapter to accept standard Buell bearings and races in the steering neck. Should have it early next week.
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PB060009.jpg
Not a lot of clearance on the top. Well, lower is better. Will punch a smaller hole through the air.
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PB060011.jpg
Hope I can get the heads off in the frame to certify record. I guess that is a problem I want to have.

as long as you can get the upper rocker box cover off then everything else will come off without issue. You've got more clearance than 07 Sportys do!!

Looking very good Joe. I especially like those axel end caps.

On a side note. Have you had those bearing plates off your PM wheels? I bought a used one a while back and had to take them off to change the bearings. It may just be a problem from the OP but, the bolts only had 3 threads at the most holding the bearing plate on. I changed them all to longer. When you tear it back down you may want to check yours.

As far as clearance, you'll have more then I do.

Larry

Engine is in the frame ... rear mount is tacked ... engine is parallel to the rails .
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PB090004.jpg
It looks like I will need a 1/2" spacer under the sprocket. Everything is lined up square and plumb.

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PB090005.jpg

I fab'd up a battery box out of steel. Fits stock Buell battery.

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PB090006.jpg

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PB090007.jpg

I was planning on putting the battery in front of the rear tire. Now I am sure. I may hang it off the front of the frame in front of the engine.

Make that read ."Now I am not sure".

Here's some pics of mine for reference ...

Keep in mind I didn't build this bike, I bought it mostly complete, finished it, and did a motor for it.

http://users.wildblue.net/awwilson/rightside.jpg

http://users.wildblue.net/awwilson/leftside.jpg

http://users.wildblue.net/awwilson/frameprofile.jpg

Here's what's different about our frames. See how mine is a straight shot from the frame backbone down to the seat? Yours has a bend there.

http://users.wildblue.net/awwilson/underneath.jpg

No bracing under my motor. Note the frame mods to make the chain adjuster clear. It's also an M6 adjuster to get the clearance. I hate those things, but the factory adjuster won't fit. I suspect my motor is sitting lower in the chassis than yours though.

http://users.wildblue.net/awwilson/tankmountsleft.jpg

http://users.wildblue.net/awwilson/tankmountsright.jpg

Here's how the tank mounts. The rubber mounts have 1/4" studs sticking out each end. One end screws into the tank, the other sticks through the aluminum bracket and is held on by nuts. The aluminum bracket bolts to tabs that are welded onto the frame and sticking out.

http://users.wildblue.net/awwilson/oiltank.jpg

The oil tank was originally mounted in front of the rear tire. I wanted that space for weight, and also, the tank was in harm's way. I got this tank from www.coyote-gear.com and added two fittings to the top. Left to right is the return, the vent, the front head drain, and the rear head drain. The feed of course comes from underneath. You can't see it, but I mounted the tank to the frame downtubes with 4 stainless steel U-bolts. Seems to work, it stayed on there.


http://users.wildblue.net/awwilson/seatpan.jpg

The seat pan is made from one piece of aluminum, carefully cut and bent and welded. It mounts to four little tabs coming off the frame (2 on each side) with 1/4" bolts.

The fuel tank is simlarily constructed, but made from 2 pieces of aluminum.

It was all painted in a black and orange paint scheme when I got it. I had to weld on the tank and it messed up the paint of course. I stripped it off and decided I liked the raw aluminum look. So I went ahead and stripped the seat pan too.

http://users.wildblue.net/awwilson/batterybox.jpg

As you can see, my battery box is behind the motor. It's attached to the motor mount bolts themselves. The ignition module mounts on the plate behind the battery. The coil mounts come off the frame backbone. Note how the front of the chainguard mounts to the little tab sticking out of the batter box. Works perfect.

http://users.wildblue.net/awwilson/chainguard.jpg

I made the chainguard out of 1/4" flat stock. The rear mounting tab was actually for the wheelie bar. It's all really strong, you could lift the bike by it.

http://users.wildblue.net/awwilson/rightsideaxle.jpg

As I mentioned, my axles are 7/8", with 3/4" NF threads on each side. I made spacers for the bearings. They already had spacers in them, but there was no lip on the spacers and as such they tried to push out when you pushed the axle through. We did about a 2 hour sprocket change at Bub's and I said this is BS and made some new ones when I got home.

http://users.wildblue.net/awwilson/leftsideaxle.jpg

I use a tiny little PM caliper on the rear, plumbed into what's traditionally the front brake master cylinder. It doesn't do much, but at Bonneville, we don't need much.

There some subtle differences between your frame and mine but they may be just a later / earlier version by the builder. I am interested in the front mounts that you used. Your engine is sitting a lot lower in the frame then mine is. Are you planning on attending the AMA awards ceremony in Alabama?
Joe

Here you go ...

http://users.wildblue.net/awwilson/frontmotormount.jpg

They're just machined out of aluminum, nothing fancy.

Now I see why the engine is lower in the frame ... Can you post a photo of the steering neck?
Joe

http://users.wildblue.net/awwilson/steeringheadright.jpg


http://users.wildblue.net/awwilson/steeringheadleft.jpg

I reviewed every option relating to an oil tank and the best design option seems to be inside the rear hoop in front of the tire. No one makes anything that looks like it will work so I will have to make it myself. I don't want use aluminum in the an area that I could run over something on the course and possibly hole the tank near the rear tire. I had some 10 gauge sheet steel that is a little heavy but the weight will go in the right area and it is tough. I fab'd up a cardboard template and filled it with styrofoam peanuts to determine volume. Approximately 4 quarts which is more then enough for an XL engine.
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PB110005.jpg
I allowed for an inch and a half of clearance from the tire in full forward position. There is an additional 2 inchs of chain adjustment available aft.
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PB110004.jpg

I tacked the tank together with the mig. I will get my son, who is a much better welder then I am, to tig it over the weekend.
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PB110007.jpg
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PB110008.jpg
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PB110011-1.jpg

I am considering using vibration mounts for the battery and oil tank ... I was thinking that the Harley sportster isolators from the older XLH's would work. I added them to a friends '69 XLCH to mount the oil tank/ battery box when he had everything shaking loose.

The neck insert is complete ... I had to draw it in using 3/4 all thread and a breaker bar ... It was made in 2 pieces. Top half and bottom half.
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PB150014.jpg

The bottom half was made flush and the top half is about an inch proud to get the front end as low as possible. The frame was made for a car tire and with a bike tire the rear is already low.

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PB150015.jpg

the rear of the frame is 3" off the deck ant the front of the frame is about 3/4" higher. Once the engine weight and rider weight are added it will come down some but I will have to add straps or cut the springs to level it out.

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PB280044.jpg
Fuel tank ... pretty easy to see why I waited for my son to do the welding instead of doing it myself.
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PB280046.jpghttp://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PB280037.jpg

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PB280039.jpg
Oil tank

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PB280043.jpg

Looking good Joe, I'm looking forward to seeing this one at Maxton in April :)

Nice welding! That reminds me, I need a new bottle of argon...

Sam

Frame Braces

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PB300063.jpg

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PB300066.jpg

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PB300055.jpg

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PB300067.jpg

I will start on the rear section tonight.

I was busy all week and didn't get a chance to work on the bike until today. Having a job really gets in the way of building a race bike. A good friend happens to be a machinist and he made me 5/16 blind bungs to use for vibration isolation mounts. I bought the tank mounts for the oil and fuel tank from the Bung King.

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PC200041.jpg

mounting tabs welded on frame

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PC200049.jpg

rubbers installed

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PC200048.jpg

tank bungs welded in

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PC200050.jpg

fuel tank installed in frame

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PC200055.jpg

blind bungs in the oil tank bottom

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PC200058.jpg

cross tube added to rest oil tank on

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PC200059.jpg

welding bungs in oil tank bottom

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PC200063.jpg

oil tank in place

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PC200065.jpg

viewed from the side

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/PC200067.jpg

front view

Aaron is correct ... the primary chain adjuster interferes with the frame ... I will need to do some modifications to clear the lower left tube.

Joe

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/P3140100.jpg

I decided to use a Morse cable to shift the bike ...

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/P3140099.jpg

Rear peg shifter side

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/P3140097.jpg

Stumbled upon this thread whil browsing through the "new posts".
Glad I did !!

I have huge respect for what you're doing and admire the inginuity and craftmanship needed to built such a great machine.

I wish you the very best of luck further on,and will follow your adventure.

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/P3150108.jpg

Fork stop set up ... tab is welded to frame ... stops welded to aluminum plate that I will drill and tap to bottom fork tree.

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/P3150107.jpg

Bolt on the stainless plate to the tab which limits travel to 15 degrees. I can adjust it with a different plate or remove it to manuever the bike around the shop and load it.

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/P9030052-1.jpg

This photo was taken at 0730 and it really shows what Bonneville looks like.