View Full Version : drive belt


dhall85
18th October 2006, 12:09
just wondering somebody cut the drive belt on my cyclone and the only way i can see to replace it is to disconnect the frame from the body to route it. i was wondering if anybody could tell me if there was an easier way to do this.

chrishajer
18th October 2006, 14:49
There is not. That's how you do it. You need to disconnect the drivetrain from the chassis. It's not an easy job unless you have a way to suspend the bike. If you don't have a way to suspend the bike, it might be worth having a shop do the belt change. They can check the rear isolators at the same time (there have been updates) and check for recalls too, while it's in the shop.

Good luck.

--Chris

Xldevil
29th July 2007, 07:23
After 42k kilometers the belt of my M2 Cyclone gave up.
I changed to the new 2006 XB belt.
Luckily I stored that belt a year ago.
Now I'm curious to see how long this one will last.

While there is no detachable frame part on a M2 or S1,you got to spread the frame to remove the isolator and to get the new belt in.You need a special tool like the belt wizard for it.
I used that mentioned belt wizard. Using the Lucky belt wizard the installation was no big thing.Around 2 hours.
An excellent tool!I can really recommend it.
http://www.luckyhands.de/tools.html
http://jeep.cfasp.de/upload/526449.jpg

I replaced the belt with that supposedly unbreakable new XB belt,
p/n G0500.1AAE
The G0500.1AAE is 128 teeth.The right number for tubers and Rigid Sportsters.
It's now the standard OEM drive belt on all 04-07 XB models (except 06 XB12X and 06XB12Ss).
I ordered mine at American Sport Bike.
http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-prodshow/17057.html

BUELListic
8th August 2007, 17:08
Gentlemen:

IMHO this is the way you'll should adjust the DRIVE BELT ...

First: Align the countershaft center, the ISOLATOR bolt center, and the rear axle center ...

Second: Find the DRIVE BELT tight spot(yes, drive belts have a tight spot just like chains) and on the tight spot adjust the belt to "ZERO"(not tight) movement ...

After you get the bike on the groung(rear wheel) you will proably say that this is too loose ...

This works out to about 2 inches of belt play ...

Well, concider the arc of the rear axle up/down ...

You will say the belt will jump over the rear sprocket teeth, "BUT" only if the rear sprocket is worn out and needs to be replaced ...

In BUELLing
LaFayette

Xldevil
9th August 2007, 18:49
My method of adjusting my Cyclone's belt is simple;referring to:

http://www.americanthunderbike.org/techtips/beltadjust.php

Citation:
"Some years ago, Jay Hawley(former DIRECTOR of AMERICAN THUNDERBIKE CLUB) at E. Troy riding with some BMC test riders. They were showing him some nice local roads. They were also testing the effects of too much slack in the rear dive belts. They had moved the rear wheel all the way forward for maximum slack. Then they rode the hell out of the bikes... wheelies, hard riding and riding double. No matter what they did, they couldn't make the belt jump. So belt skipping is not a problem."


I simply tighten the drive belt as loose as it is possible without scratching along the underside of the swingarm or the swingarm mounting block, or the rear wheel cover as well while driving.
I began very loose and then adjusted it by try and error,always staying on the loose side.After no more than 3 test rides I found the best adjustment for my belt
For me,this method works perfect.

Ralph

BUELListic
10th August 2007, 10:53
Xldevil:

Check the bottom of the Jay's article ...

Have up-dated the ARITCLE even more ...

In BUELLing
LaFayette
Ljenne73c@verizon.net

Xldevil
10th August 2007, 17:13
Xldevil:

Check the bottom of the Jay's article ...

Have up-dated the ARITCLE even more ...

In BUELLing
LaFayette
Ljenne73c@verizon.net


Sorry,I don't understand.
Of course I read the whole article......

Ralph