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xena
13th March 2005, 03:36
I'm putting things back together after installing the fork lowering kit. First, there's no way on this earth that Xena has enough strength to get those damn fork caps back on, but I'm hoping I can get one of my burly guy friends to help with that tomorrrow.
For now, I'm putting the front wheel back on but when I took it off, the spacers and washers just fell to the ground and I don't know how they all go. I do have a service manual, but it's not showing me an exploded view of how these washers and spacers go back on. Can someone help?

Darhawk
13th March 2005, 04:01
Hi Xena,


I'm looking at a 2005 parts manual, XL883, XL883C, XL883L, XL883R and it shows the following, working from the outside inward:

nut
lockwasher
thin washer
wide bearing spacer

it does not show the thicker spacer that you have at the edge of the table. The other items you have laid out on the table are in correct order. The thicker washer or spacer may go against the bearing, but neither the service manual nor the parts manual show it.

IronMick
13th March 2005, 04:10
To install the fork cap bolts the front wheel must be off the ground. It helps greatly to have a 1,3/8" socket on a 1/2" [or 3/4"] drive ratchet.

I start on one side of the bike slightly toward the back, and while pressing down hard, walk around the front of the bike to the other side toward the back. Usually one thread will catch and that is enough to get started. I wouldn't trust it tho until at least 2 or 3 threads are started.

You can do it Xena!

RedRider
13th March 2005, 04:22
Hang in there kiddo!

Take yer time threading the caps....an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure... :rolleyes:

I'm sure someone will have the correct order for the spacers & get it posted.

You efforts will be worth it in the end... Let us know how it works out.

cantolina
13th March 2005, 04:23
I probably should stop doing this, but.....

:)

My clymer goes to 2003...

Hope it helps...

I saw you had the cast wheel...

BTW, you may have to right-click it and save it...(if it won't open in your browser..)

xena
13th March 2005, 04:49
Thanks for that Cantolina. I still can't figure out which side the fatter spacer goes on. The exploded view shows #5 as spacers on either side, but I've got two, one fat one, and one thin one.
Far as the fork caps, I will need to get a guy to help. I can't even push the fork caps down enough to start the threads. Not enough muscle in this old girl.

Gyahmers
13th March 2005, 04:49
Xena, going from left to right you have the correct order for the spacers in your photo.

Axle, left fork, thin spacer, wheel, larger spacer, right fork, washer, lock washer, nut.

xena
13th March 2005, 04:57
Xena, going from left to right you have the correct order for the spacers in your photo.

Axle, left fork, thin spacer, wheel, larger spacer, right fork, washer, lock washer, nut.

Thanks very much Gyahmers..uh oh though. So, the fork marked L goes on the brake pedal side of the bike? Shittttt, for some stupid reason I thought left was as you were sitting on the bike.

edit: I put them on correct. lol. Actually can't put them back on wrong now that I look at it.

flathead45
13th March 2005, 05:02
the left side is the brake side , for a real sportster ;)

j/k xena , good luck

xena
13th March 2005, 06:10
Lol. All you guys disappeared on me. Well I've got it all back together except the fork caps so I wrapped plastic over the forks so no dirt would get in until I can find a way to get the caps on. Oh yeah, Mick, the wheel is off the ground. The bike is on a lift.

Gyahmers, that thinner wheel spacer is slightly concave on one side. The HD service manual doesn't mention this, but I assumed that the flatter side would go against the wheel so that's the way I put it on. I've got a little bit of swooshing sound when I spin the wheel, so I have to redo the wheel using the 7/16" drill bit method mentioned in my manual. I couldn't find that size drill bit last night. Also, that fatter spacer has some notched "v" markings on it. Manual didn't mention this either, so I guessed and positioned the spacer with the notches against the wheel.

Lastly, I don't have a 1 3/8 socket. All I've got is a 1 3/8 wrench. Gonna borrow a socket so I'll give it another go in a couple of days when my arms stop hurting. lol. I know this job is no big deal to you guys, but my arms are killing me from trying to wrestle down those caps....which incidentally, I think I found out why. I cut the pvc spacers too long because I measured from the top of the fork opening to the bottom of the fork cap when I should have measured from the top of the opening to the o'ring on the fork cap to allow the distance for the threads on the cap. I think if I cut them down accordingly then I should be able to get the caps on. We'll see. At least I didn't cut them too short.
Thanks again guys for the help and support. If it weren't for this forum I am positive that I would not have attempted this myself.

cantolina
13th March 2005, 15:24
Lol. All you guys disappeared on me. Well I've got it all back together except the fork caps so I wrapped plastic over the forks so no dirt would get in until I can find a way to get the caps on. Oh yeah, Mick, the wheel is off the ground. The bike is on a lift.

Gyahmers, that thinner wheel spacer is slightly concave on one side. The HD service manual doesn't mention this, but I assumed that the flatter side would go against the wheel so that's the way I put it on.

I don't know crap about this, but I would only assume this if it looks like the washer has been torqued hard to cause the concave thing....Your bike is pretty new...consider the possibility that it actually goes the other way??

xena
13th March 2005, 15:43
I don't know crap about this, but I would only assume this if it looks like the washer has been torqued hard to cause the concave thing....Your bike is pretty new...consider the possibility that it actually goes the other way??

Negative Chuck. I can't get zoom pic of it now because it's on the bike, but ya can definitely tell that washer was made that way, but the stupid HD manual doesn't say squat about which way it goes. Also the manual doesn't even specify anything about those stupid spacers at all...of all the manuals out there, one would assume that the HD manual would be the most detailed. Bastards. I guess I can flip it the other way and then proceed with the 7/16" drill bit test, but before I do that I'm hoping someone who knows can tell me if it's ok as I've done it.

Gyahmers
13th March 2005, 15:50
Xena,

I should clarify a point here for you and others. The order I was talking about is from your photo and the orientation I am talking about is from the photo looking straight on your bike. The fork order is opposite as I am talking about the spacer order from which you insert the axle, which is actually the right fork when seated on the bike.

xena
13th March 2005, 15:56
Yep. I gotcha Ray.

Like I said though, the thinner spacer is slightly concave on one side. It's very slight, and you really have to examine it up close to notice, but I believe it was made that way and didn't get squashed that way. Thing is, the manual doesn't specify which way to assemble it, so I guessed and put the flatter side of it against the wheel. Did I do it right?

cantolina
13th March 2005, 16:04
I hope you get a definitive answer soon...!

Speaking strictly from a logic standpoint, the concave design either helps to center (convex IN) or it spreads the torque (concave IN)...It seems as if the washer you refer to is next to the large spacer....if there is NO play on the inside of that spacer and thge outer diameters match, I would install concave IN......but, as I said, I have no experience here...

My Dad likes to say that if you have a cigarette and stare at it long enough, the right answer will come to you...

GOOD LUCK!!!

Gyahmers
13th March 2005, 16:18
The spacer shouldn't be concaved, but either way you put in on it shouldn't give you any trouble.

The important part of spacing the front wheel is the rotor alignment with the brake pads and clearance with the bolts that hold the rotor to the hub and the left fork and I'm talking about the brake side fork here. Make sure your rotor is aligned 90* with the pads and not cocked one way or the other. The other important issue with the spacing is centering the tire between the forks. I believe you have done both correctly. :)

Those spacers are cheap to buy and shouldn't cost more than a couple of bucks to replace. It's the chrome spacers they jack the price on. Heck, if I lived close by I'd just give you a new spacer, I've got a box of them, 1/8" up to 1-1/2".

Talk to your Harley mechanic and see if they have one lying around to give you. My local dealership is always giving me bolts, spacers, battery charges (when needed), and stuff like that without charge.

rottenralph
13th March 2005, 16:20
Now that you got the wheel on it is time for the cap. Buy the big socket that fits it and you will be able to put enough pressure on it to get it to thread. I used a giant crescent wrens that opens to 2.5 inches. It takes a good strong arm and some will power and you will get it on. Don't forget to refill them before the cap goes on. If you don't want to buy the socket just take a hand size chunk of wood and cut a square in it that will hold the cap head and then force it down. This tool only needs to be strong enough to start the threads after that the wrench will work. My guess is that you can't get the threads to start. I took the legs off once to do it because I could get a better angle on it and push hard straight on. Cheap solution to your problem.

Gyahmers
13th March 2005, 16:24
If you don't want to buy the socket just take a hand size chunk of wood and cut a square in it that will hold the cap head and then force it down. Cheap solution to your problem.

That's a cleaver idea Ralph. :clap

rottenralph
13th March 2005, 16:25
I would use the cleaver(clever) on the bike if you can't get it on. LOL Really. It is easier to get the caps on if the fork leg is off the bike. I used to work with aircraft and you sometimes have to improvise to get things started. Lots of special tools have been made after a day of bloody knuckles.

And by the way, I got my parts manual out and no such part exists. I think maybe it was added to align your brake. Make sure everything is centered when it comes to the brake.

Gyahmers
13th March 2005, 16:27
I would use the cleaver(clever) on the bike if you can't get it on. LOL Really. It is easier to get the caps on if the fork leg is off the bike.

LOL, I saw that too but didn't edit it... Good catch Ralph!

barry1967
13th March 2005, 16:46
Just looked at my wheel. The bigger spacer goes on the left side fork as you are sitting on the bike.

xena
13th March 2005, 21:10
OMG, my arms are about to fall off, but I got those bastard fork caps on by myself. Weight lifter dude neighbor offered to help but I was determined. :) So glad that's over. Ended up borrowing a 1 3/8" socket from a friend, attached it to a breaker bar and held it straight up while pushing down and twisting. No cross threading problems either. Now just have to get out the torque wrench and finish up.

The kit I put in is the white brothers fork lowering kit btw in case I neglected to mention that previously. You can go 2" with it, but I only went 1" for now because my rear shocks are only 1 1/2" lower than stock.

Oh and Ralph, I had to remove the forks completely from the bike anyway because I put in the lowering kit and not just a spring swap.

Again, I can't thank all of you enough. You're the best cheering squad ever!!! :D

Darhawk
13th March 2005, 21:14
Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrreeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaa aaaaaaaaaattttttttttttt

Glad it's coming together for ya!:urock

xena
15th March 2005, 00:54
Forgot one last thing I wanted to mention about this little project. The instructions for the lowering kit, the service manual, and a few members mentioned that I'd need to use an impact wrench to remove the nut at the bottom of the forks. I have air, but didn't even need to use it. What I did was, I left the spring in and applied a little pressure to it and by doing it this way, was able to easily break loose that nut with a breaker bar. Just wanted to mention that for those who may not have air tools.
Didn't mean to make such a big production about this job, but it was a big deal for me since I'm new to the bike mechanics stuff.
The scooter is all back together and ready to roll :clap .........just waiting patiently for the snow, sand, and salt to be a thing of the past.
Guess ya can't really tell by looking at it that it's lower than a stock xl standard, but it's now 1 1/2" lower in the rear, and 1" lower up front.

hillbilly
15th March 2005, 01:07
:clap Very nice thats just what i did with mine when i got it! looks more sleek now ! Great Job on the self install ... :chtwo

rbuier
15th March 2005, 02:05
Awesome, looks great. I've got the same bike as yours. Now I can visualize mine looking like that. Good Job!