I would love to get some of the parts on my bike powdercoated, but I alos have been debating jsut painting some of the parts. A guy I work with said I should think about using a paint called por 15 or something like that. I was thinking of just using rattle can engine paint or something similar. Any and all feedback, especially about paint, would be much appreciated. If you ahve had good expierience with a certain kind involving durability and resistant to heat that would be great. Thanks guys

POR 15 is good paint...I use their tank liner

What are you looking at painting????

when it is all said and done, I would like to have the cam cover, primary cover, sprocket cover, rocker boxes, triple trees, headlight visor, and fork legs coated black. It seems that everyone is going with powder caoting these days, but I am almost broke, and Want to do it myself.

Ive used the HD black wrinkle paint in a can, I looks good but it will not stay on for long, for the cam cover and primary cover you will have to get them pro powder coated or you will be resprayin within a year..
Same goes for the Rocker cover, I used engine paint on it and it lasted 2 years before it started flakin..
My suggestion is if ya hav the money get them pro done and you wont hav ta visit it again.

VHT case paint ... comes in a spray can and I've painted my covers with it, the girlfriends sporty is painted with it.....I also painted her fork legs with it.

The case paint is satin lack and the barrell paint is gloss..

They are good paints that don't wash off with degreaser

It will probably be cheaper in the long run to have the parts powder coated. I painted a few parts on my bike using paint but is chipping off fairly easy. I'm going to probably end up tearing the bike down again so that I can have all the painted parts powder coated.

That VHT stuff was on my covers for over 2 years without chipping off...

Ya gotta get the prep right tho

there is the key words , "you have to prep it first" any paint is good but if you have any dirt or grease (even fingerprints) the paint will not adhere properly

clean your parts with a good degreaser, then clean them again , after cleaning them , clean them again , then before painting them wipe them down with a lacquer thinner and a cheese cloth, let dry then use light coats of paint . several light coats will give you the best results . lightly wet sand with 1000 grit or more wet-dry sand paper between coats , use clean water and hold the sand paper in your hand not a sanding block (unless your using wrinkle coat then don't sand between coats)

prep is the key to a good , lasting paint job

I've used Hammerite paint for some cases, wheels and a swingarm. It has held up very well and it makes an unusual textured finish that is still smooth and easy to clean, unlike wrinkle paints. On the wheels, I did shoot urethane clear over them. That pretty much makes it as good as any paint job can look. But you'll need a compressor to spray the clear.

Here's a link to the stuff I used:Hammerite (http://www.hammerite.com/webapp/wcs/stores/HAMUK/ICIPaints/servlet/ProductDisplayCmd?catalogId=1&storeId=10102&productId=255006&langId=-1&siteName=HMUK&pn_categoryId=0)

Flathead is right about the prep. It's the most important part of a paint job. If what you are painting isn't perfect, the paint job will never look perfect.

I have used rattlecan clear on a few paint jobs and it does work allright , but a gun is the best way to aply paint (I also know a guy who used a pumpup bug sprayer to paint a car , but he did an awfull lot of sanding between coats)

I've only tried rattle can clear once and wasn't real impressed. The difference in the make up of the paint is pretty significant. That urethane clear is great shit. Makes me look like I know how to paint.