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rharrison356
28th December 2006, 00:43
I have experienced Stage 1 success with my EFI sporty using the Screamin’ Eagle Race Fueler (HD part 32173-07) or SERF. This post is to help first time users set up their SERF quickly.

First, why a SERF and not a remap? The cost is about the same, but the SERF allows you to “tune” the bike to your needs and modifications. You can lean out 10% or richen up to 40% for each rpm range. You can also change the crossover points and change the “accelerator pump” 0-100%. It is like having a parts-bin full of carb jets, but takes only seconds to change settings.

Downsides? The instructions for installation are OK, but my dealer was worthless when it came to setting this thing up. However, with the help of the Big Twin guys on another forum, I have dialed-in the SERF and am very pleased with the results. I hope my findings will encourage some additional tuning dialogue for those using a SERF or similar devices, such as the FuelPak.

Installation: The unit is plug into the existing wiring harness. Install the SERF (about the size of a lighter) on the battery bracket behind the battery cover using the enclosed Velcro. It fits perfect. Run a ground wire under the seat (the ground point to use is obvious). Run the wires in such a way as to ensure they do not touch the engine. The kit includes the ties to keep the installation neat and OEM appearing. The great thing about this kit is that it can be removed and no-one will know it was ever there!

Tuning: The dials (potentiometers or pots) on the SERF are oriented as follows.
| 1 |____| 2 |____| 3 |____
Red LED Yellow LED Green LED
| 4 |____| 5 |____| 6 |____

R = Red LED Low rpm range Y = Yellow LED Mid rpm range G = Green LED High rpm range

What each dial, or pot, does:
1 Low rpm range fuel adjuster ______ -10% to +40% fuel correction
2 Mid rpm range fuel adjuster ______ -10% to +40% fuel correction
3 High rpm range fuel adjuster _____ -10% to +40% fuel correction
4 Low to Mid rpm cutover range _____ 900 to 3500 rpm
5 Mid to High rpm cutover range ____ 4500 to 7100 rpm
6 Accelerator fuel enrichment _______ 0 to 100%

The dials are marked 0 to 10 0 = Fully Anti-Clockwise position on all dials 10 = Fully Clockwise position on all dials. For example Position 2 on Dials 1, 2 & 3 roughly equates to no fuel correction. My unit was factory set from 0 to 2, meaning the bike ran poorly before changing the settings. Do not worry about that, and once installed, go for a ride to warm the bike up to full operating temperature. Now, take off the battery cover, open the SERF using a very small Phillips screwdriver (the same one you will be using to adjust the pots) and let the fun begin.
Dial #____Position
Dial 1 ___ 3
Dial 2 ___ 3
Dial 3 ___ 4
Dial 4 ___ 3 - (Low to Mid rpm needs to be set at around 2000 rpm which is about setting 3) \
Dial 5 ___ 0 - (Mid to High rpm needs to be set to 4500 rpm which is 0 on the dial)
Dial 6 ___ 5

Now, Take it for a short ride. Better, eh? Actually, it should be much better.

Now, for the REAL fun. Fine Tuning.
Dial 1: Start the engine up and slowly increase the rpm until the red led goes out (about 2000rpm) and the yellow led comes on then bring it down a bit until the led's swap back over and we have the red one lit again. You need to hold this rpm really steady (now you can finally use that throttle lock on the handle bar). Now very slowly increase dial 1 (clockwise), the engine should start to speed up (if the yellow led comes on then set the throttle back a little so we are back on red). You will get to a point where the rpm no longer rises and then you can turn the dial back down to a point where the rpm just starts to reduce. On mine, this was about setting 4.5

Dial 2: Now we do the same again but at about 4500 rpm. So this time we raise the rpm until the green (third) led comes on and then throttle back very slowly until it goes out and the yellow led comes back on. Then we slowly increase dial 2 until the engine no longer increases in speed and then dial it back slightly. On mine, this was about 3. For both dials one and two you are looking for the point where the engine runs fastest and smoothest with the dials set as low as possible. Since I did this outside, on a cool night with a nice breeze, my oil temp was only 190 and did not rise. If it is a hot day, let the bike cool or use a large fan on the engine. It was noted on the other forum that when adjusting the SERF, if the engine gets too hot the EFI will run slightly richer to compensate and thus will mess with your results.

Dial 3: This is the hardest to set up manually (not on a dyno). However, unless you are taking the bike above 4500 rpm a lot you won't need to worry. The only way to set this is to get the bike pulling hard above 4500 and the increase the dial a bit at a time until it runs about right. I set dial 3 to position 5 and that gave me a flawless transition. Probably hard on fuel economy, but hey, I seldom run up here unless I need to pass a car or just want to have fun.

Dial 4 & 5: Need no further adjusting.

Dial 6: This is set by blipping the throttle open from idle. If the engine hesitates before picking up, you need to increase the setting on the dial. Eventually you find a point where the engine responds straight away and there is no stutter. When you find this point, stop, as you want to keep the setting as low as you can without the hesitation. I settled on 3, but will play with this a little more.

Finally, if you have popping exhaust on deceleration, add ½ turn to the rpm range (dial 1, 2 or 3) where the popping exists. I was able to eliminate the popping, and the stage 1 conversion has really livened up my Sporty.

Screw Loose Dan
28th December 2006, 04:11
Thanks! That's a lot of good information. I'm still riding around without an remapping/adjustment, but I know the time will come...

Maybe a moderator can make this a sticky?

cjburr
28th December 2006, 04:39
That's definitely sticky material, great info rharrison356. I'm sure the F/I guys will be in your debt for this one. Probably be just like Stevo's Jetting 101 for us carb guys and gals.

rharrison356
28th December 2006, 04:42
Thanks for the kind words.
I'm still riding around without an remapping/adjustment, but I know the time will come...I hope this information will be helpful. If you decide to be the first 883 owner on the forum to use the SERF, let me know if I can help. I would think the 883 would respond well to Stage 1 upgrades (or a 1200 kit w/upgrades). One nice thing about the SERF is that it can be adjusted as you do upgrades. Stage 1 (exhuast/intake), cam and ignition changes, 883-1200 conversion,etc...

As a note, the SERF costs $224 from the dealer, or $179 from the dealers who offer 20% off. This makes it comparable in cost to what many dealers charge for a remap.

sportin_2007
28th December 2006, 06:17
Great info and I agree it would make a great sticky. Now for my other question? What about your setting this up on the dyno? I thought you were going to run this to determine what your power and torque pick ups were and what gains were to be determined by the stage 1 with the remapping of the fuel vs stock fueling? Curious to know why you didn't run this and tune it on the dyno as you had planned?

rharrison356
28th December 2006, 15:46
Great info and I agree it would make a great sticky. Now for my other question? What about your setting this up on the dyno? I thought you were going to run this to determine what your power and torque pick ups were and what gains were to be determined by the stage 1 with the remapping of the fuel vs stock fueling? Curious to know why you didn't run this and tune it on the dyno as you had planned?
I am still planning to dyno the bike next week. However, most members of the forum will not be dyno testing each upgrade. Seeing that the SERF is a popular stage 1 option with the big-twin riders, my goal for this post was to help those who want a performance option that does not require going to the dealer for a remap or SERF/SERT tuning. With what I have learned, the SERF is a viable option for the DIY'er. In time, I believe I could dial it in even better, as even a 1/2 turn on a dial can make a significant a difference. Since it only takes about 3 minutes to take off the battery cover, open the SERF, change the dial, run the bike through the gears decide if the changes helped or hindered, the SERF is a fantastic tuning option. The hardest part was not having clear instructions on how to set the SERF up in the first place. My dealer said, and I quote, "It's set up close right out of the box." No way...it was not even close out of the box. Plus, the instructions do not tell you anywhere near enough to have confidence using the SERF for the first time.

After the bike is dyno tested, I will be able to compare the dyno specs to my seat-of-the-pants dyno. Be assured that I will post my results. I hope this answers your question. As noted, my goal is to encourage others who are exploring the HD Race Fueler EFI option make a good decision. For someone in the sticks (like where I used to live in Northern Minnesota) going to the dealer was not a viable option, whereas the SERF can be obtained by mail along with other stage 1 hardware. Thanks for the great question.

doxbike
10th January 2007, 04:53
Does having a dealer re-map affect the SERF settings ? Or do you have to go back to original before installing the Serf? I'd hate to have to pay them again. Wish I'd found your thread sooner. DAMN!
Also where in the battery box does the unit go? I tried to fit the V & H Fuelpak over the battery and couldn't get it to fit.

Finally I can't find the unit in the catalog or in HD's online catalog. Am I looking in the wrong area?

Thanks for your work.

Screw Loose Dan
11th January 2007, 01:13
Finally I can't find the unit in the catalog or in HD's online catalog. Am I looking in the wrong area?

I can't answer most of your questions, but it is in the 2007 SE catalog, download from here (http://www.harley-davidson.com/en_US/Media/downloads/Racing/US_SE_P.pdf). Listed on page 33 (Adobe lists it as pg 35), right under the Race Tuner.

rharrison356
13th January 2007, 21:11
Does having a dealer re-map affect the SERF settings ? Or do you have to go back to original before installing the Serf? I'd hate to have to pay them again. Wish I'd found your thread sooner. DAMN!
Also where in the battery box does the unit go? I tried to fit the V & H Fuelpak over the battery and couldn't get it to fit.

Finally I can't find the unit in the catalog or in HD's online catalog. Am I looking in the wrong area?

Thanks for your work.
It is HD part 32173-07. Do a google search and you will find them readily available from the dealers who offer a 20% discount as well. As for the remap, the SERF is an alternative to a remap, so it is not necessary.

doxbike
14th January 2007, 02:36
I guess I didn't pose my question correctly. I already have had the re-map done after my stage 1. Can I still use the race fueler? Will I see/feel a drastic improvement or just a minor one over the currently installed re-map?

Thanks

rharrison356
14th January 2007, 03:05
I guess I didn't pose my question correctly. I already have had the re-map done after my stage 1. Can I still use the race fueler? Will I see/feel a drastic improvement or just a minor one over the currently installed re-map?

ThanksFirst, I am basing my answer upon the experience of the Big Twin guys, as I don't know of anyone having done this with Sportster. Yes, you could potentially experience a performance gain using the SERF with the factory stage 1 remap depending upon your performance requirements, since the SERF allows changes (up to 50%) in the fuel delivery. However, the remap generally serves the same purpose and would likely provide better "all around" performance if using the SE a/c and slip-ons, for which the remap was designed. For mods falling outside of those parameters (such as V&H, Big Sucker and other non-HD stage 1 options) the SERF allows the owner to dial-in the ride.

The first question I would ask is, "Do you like the State 1 with HD remap?" Sporty_2007 has posted excellent results (subjectively and objectively) with his. I would be surprised if the SERF or SERT does much, if any, better. If the SERF/SERT is not dyno tuned, many of the BT quys were 5-10 HP down and 5-15% mpg off compared to bikes that had the HD remap. Speaking of dyno tuning, my XL50 is still at the dealer awaiting the new dyno going on-line (11 days and waiting...but at least it's snow and ice outside).

Drew1200c
3rd February 2007, 05:01
I just got a rev-tech DFO was $250 plug and play. Set up is very similar has the colored leds but only 4 pots, 1 for idle 2nd mid(main jet) 3rd full throttle (accelerator pump) 4th crossover rpm point for 3rd. The DFO can only add fuel, unlike the SERF. It works by changing the voltage pulse going to the fuel injectors. the more you turn the longer the FI's spray fuel,simple. Too bad I didnt see this post sooner or I might have considerd the SERF instead. So far the DFO works good and my cycle seems to run a lot smoother, I have not yet Dynod it. I found a local shop that said they will do a 3 run baseline for $40 ,while my local HD stealer wanted $70.

rharrison356
3rd February 2007, 18:12
I guess I didn't pose my question correctly. I already have had the re-map done after my stage 1. Can I still use the race fueler? Will I see/feel a drastic improvement or just a minor one over the currently installed re-map?

Thanks
Any changes will be minor. My original post was for Stage 1 (mufflers and A/C) without the remap. Seat of the pants was good. Then the dealer fiasco [lesson--ask and confirm] that resulted in the tuning before dynoing.

When returned for the retest, they could not get the SERF to work, so they [with my permission] did a remap and testing.

When I brought the bike home, I reconnected the SERF. I am still playing with my settings, and so far, the only improvement seems to be during the transition 3000-3500 rpm point, but I have lost the low end. I am going to wait until warmer weather (i.e., no snow on the ground) to really play with the SERF. The Big Twin guys regularly run the remap and SERF and speak of improvements. However, my dyno results show that the Air/Fuel with the remap (no SERF) are good.

Goshawk
23rd April 2007, 10:34
When you say run through the gears do you mean you are taking the bike out on the road for a test ride? Is all adjusting done in neutral with the bike on the sidestand?

rharrison356
5th May 2007, 17:33
The adjusting is done with the bike on the stand. Fine tuning is done "subjectively" by running the bike through the gears. I am finding that the hotter temps have caused some changes, so more playing will be required.

joshwaa
24th May 2007, 05:39
I guess I didn't pose my question correctly. I already have had the re-map done after my stage 1. Can I still use the race fueler? Will I see/feel a drastic improvement or just a minor one over the currently installed re-map?

Thanks

Well I suppose you can adjust A/F and smell it a little more at stop lights.:smoke

Laker
27th May 2007, 23:22
Knocked-Out City Mr. rharrison356.Was that a 356 coupe?

Goshawk
11th July 2007, 07:22
Installed H-D race fueler today. Seems to be working but my LED lights are backwards. Green for low, yellow for mid, and red for high rpms. Will fine tune tommorrow. Thank you rharrison356. This post explains what the instructions do not. :)

883
27th August 2007, 21:32
Hi,

My 883 now has 3000 miles. I new I was gonna mess with her so, I had her dyno'd at my HD dealer.
It was dyno'd at 2000 miles just when I had bolted on the Cycle Shack tapered slip-ons.
I just ordered my new SERF unit and stuffed a K&N a/c into her. I will dyno her then too.
When I can afford it, I'll be finishing her off with the Hurricane hi-flow.

How do I post my dyno sheets?? I scan them first then what???:doh

rharrison356
28th August 2007, 00:58
Hi,

My 883 now has 3000 miles. I new I was gonna mess with her so, I had her dyno'd at my HD dealer.
It was dyno'd at 2000 miles just when I had bolted on the Cycle Shack tapered slip-ons.
I just ordered my new SERF unit and stuffed a K&N a/c into her. I will dyno her then too.

I look forward to hearing the results. Go to the dyno section of the forum and full instructions on posting are available. Some dealers will provide you with a "jpeg" file with the results.

rharrison356
28th August 2007, 00:59
Knocked-Out City Mr. rharrison356.Was that a 356 coupe?356B Cabriolet

883
29th August 2007, 15:13
I look forward to hearing the results. Go to the dyno section of the forum and full instructions on posting are available. Some dealers will provide you with a "jpeg" file with the results.

That be a 10/4 :banadanc
My dealer did give me jpegs. I'll try to post 'em now.

langner91
29th August 2007, 15:44
Very informative post, thank you for the information.

Does anyone have any MPG data from before and after the SERF installation? Since it is a "fuel adder", I am wondering what happens to fuel mileage.

883
29th August 2007, 16:14
Done at 2000 miles.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d131/bluezguy/DynoScan883Sportster0001.jpg

Horsepower:

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d131/bluezguy/DynoScan10001.jpg

Torque:

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d131/bluezguy/DynoScan20001.jpg

I'm gonna do another dyno when I install my SERF (in a few weeks).

883
16th September 2007, 14:49
Thanks for the kind words.
I hope this information will be helpful. If you decide to be the first 883 owner on the forum to use the SERF, let me know if I can help. I would think the 883 would respond well to Stage 1 upgrades (or a 1200 kit w/upgrades). One nice thing about the SERF is that it can be adjusted as you do upgrades. Stage 1 (exhuast/intake), cam and ignition changes, 883-1200 conversion,etc...

As a note, the SERF costs $224 from the dealer, or $179 from the dealers who offer 20% off. This makes it comparable in cost to what many dealers charge for a remap.

I'd really like to take you up with the help offer :headb

I just did a thread/post explaining my problem.
Thanks.

883
26th September 2007, 02:56
????

My SERF is nothing like what you describe! Yellow light stays on all the time. Green light on at Idle. Red light only comes on when I wind her wide open.

According to HD instructions, #1 pot is #3 in HD instruction diagram. This pot is below the green light.
I therefore disagree with your pot orientation settings at the beginning of this thread.
If the unit is held in your hand properly, pot4 is above the green LED and pot1 is below the green. Pot 5 is above the yellow LED with pot2 below the yellow LED. Pot6 is above the red LED and pot3 is below red LED.
Looking at the direction sheet that comes with the unit, don't you agree???

Your info is backwards... or is the SERF unit's info backwards???
Respectfully,
883

2007 XL883
SE A/C
CS Tapereds
SE Race Fueler

day_dreamin_nines
6th February 2008, 00:03
this serf sounds intersting. i to was looking at a rev tech dfo. then i heard about the s&s ezfi. after talking to them and some other people i have found that with a closed loop system that your ecm will undo everything that has been done and revert back to 14.6 afr. i have installed d&d xhp power pipes and an arlen ness super sucker and the remap. it runs good but has a slight hesitation off the bottom. i was wondering if this serf would have the same problem or if someone could explain this better to me. thanks guys

nahtanoj69
15th February 2008, 04:17
Im new to this forum and still trying to get the pics working, got a 08 1200 custom and thanks for the info. i was getting tried of srcewing with that fueler but now i love it.

txmike
9th May 2008, 17:27
Your info is backwards... or is the SERF unit's info backwards???
Respectfully,
883

2007 XL883
SE A/C
CS Tapereds
SE Race Fueler

Did you get this resolved? I have a SERF that I just installed and am getting ready to tune this W/E. My HD documentation agreed with Mr. Harrison's description but HD's numbers all three fuel pots as #1 in their diagram. I will check against the information in your post tonight.

If you can provide your settings on all the pots and how you like it that would be helpful for me since I am tuning an 883 with the SE 50 state exhaust and Kuryakyn intake.

txmike
23rd May 2008, 16:14
The SERF installed very easily, there is plenty of room in the valley between the rocker boxes and the bottom of the tank on the 883L to connect the wiring harness to the injectors. Since there is much confusion on the pots, I will give my settings as % of over what the ECM deklivers and the RPM bands so follow the directions that come with your SERF. This is on an 883 with SE (50 state) slip ons and a Kuryakyn Corsair open element A/C.

Low range fuel: +2.5%
Mid range fuel: +7.5%
High range fuel +10.0 %
low-mid cutover 1960 RPM
mid-high cutover 4500 RPM
Accellerator enrichment +50%

Note: the bike ran well before stage 1, and in a quick ride after warming up I have found no reason to go back and change these initial settings. A long ride is being planned for the w/e so any 'learning' by the ECM should occur then. If I make any further adjustments I will post them, but I will try to find a dyno day nearby to get some data. I am not that interested in peak HP numbers, I just want to check the torque curve to see if there are any dips that could possibly be tuned out by playing with the SERF's RPM bands and fuel settings. Since the slip ons are in the 'mild' range, I am not expecting to find anything major on the dyno. However, the A/F ratio at various cruise settings would be interesting to see and correlate with mpg before and after stage 1 with SERF.

krono
28th May 2008, 04:08
Any idea how I can get a SERF in Argentina? I only have pipes, but no special A/C installed.
I don't like the idle speed (sounds like a honda), and when deaccelerating I hear poppin'/farting.
Also I have high temps.
The SERF can solve this?
Thanks!

krono
29th May 2008, 04:55
common, any idea how I can get a SERF in Argentina? I wrote to a couple dealers (zanotti and chicago) but they did not answered my emails :(

Torgunde
13th June 2008, 05:53
Hey, if you are still looking for a SERF in Argentina, PM me. I can take a telephone order at work and find out how much shipping would be and add that into the invoice.

RobS80
21st June 2008, 01:44
i ended up tossing mine, riding home one morning and the thing crapped out, left me on the side of the road...just ended up unplugging it and plugging back the stock stuff to get me back home, so i just ordered the sert instead and had no problems since.

txmike
7th July 2008, 18:14
After 4,000 miles, everything is still running fine. Mileage is down about 7 mpg on the highway with the SERF. As much mileage as this bike sees in a season (10,000+ miles), that is about $100 per year in added fuel costs at 4 bucks a gallon. Perhaps I need to trim down that mid-range pot some.

txmike
11th September 2008, 17:36
After 4,000 miles, everything is still running fine.

brianM883L
19th September 2008, 03:01
Hi, this is my first post, just bought an '08 883L a couple months ago. I just installed cycle shack slip ons and this race fueler, stock AC for now, bike runs good except i cannot get rid of an off idle stumble, I have messed around with the serf for 2 hours tonite and cant get rid of it, the bike seems to run ok without the serf but still has the slight hesitation off idle. Is there anything that can be done about this? Also my LED lights are backwards to, green light at idle, yellow above idle until it winds up a bit then red lights up, HD instructions say red should be lit on low, yellow mid and green high, what gives? have I installed it wrong? Im getting tired of messing with this thing, if anyone has any ideas, I would appreciate it, thanks

jescobedo61
20th September 2008, 01:53
Were you able to make the adjustment on the SERF using Mr Harrison's thread or by going with the HD instructions?

brianM883L
21st September 2008, 18:01
Well the HD instructions are virtually worthless for setting the serf up, tells you almost nothing so i tried harrisons method but cant seem to make it work real well either because my led's dont light up like his do, i finally played around with it enough that it runs ok everywhere except i still have a small stumble off idle that i cannot seem to get rid of, also when i ride the bike awhile with the serf it seems to mess with my idle when i slow down and come to a stop sign, idle will dip extremely low for a few seconds and almost die, in fact on one occasion the bike did die when i pulled into my driveway, I've about give up on this thing, i took the serf off when i went riding yesterday and the bike ran great all day. I dunno what to do.

txmike
2nd October 2008, 17:21
What settings were you using?

jescobedo61
2nd October 2008, 17:30
I was using the procedure that's in Harrison's thread, I have the same issues with the leds being backwards. The green led for low rpm, yellow for mid and red for high. I have been playing with the pots trying different settings but I'm still not satisfied with the power I'm getting out of my 1200 sportster.

Gunfighter13
2nd October 2008, 18:25
Heres where mine ended up being set.
http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh75/Gunfighter13/SERFnew%20album%20name/PICT0008-1.jpg
http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh75/Gunfighter13/SERFnew%20album%20name/PICT0008.jpg

The SERF adds to what the ECM says the engine needs for fuel. Remember the ECM thinks 14.7 is the best A/F ratio. It is marked -10 to +40 with each notch approx 5% (this is for #1-3). 4 and 5 adjust the RPM bands. #4= 900 RPM-3500 RPM. #5= 4500 RPM -7100 RPM. #6 is 0% - 100% For the Accelerator pump.

Here is my settings.

1= +10%
2= +8-9%
3= +11-12%
4= 2100 RPM
5= 4500 RPM
6= 50%

Hope that helps.

jescobedo61
3rd October 2008, 04:23
Thanks, for the reply gunfighter13, the way you have the pots set up are very close to what I have them at. The only one that might need some adjustment is #4, I think I have it too low.

Gunfighter13
3rd October 2008, 05:58
I set the #4 using a tach to get the RPM I wanted. I was getting a PO152 & PO132 code but have leaned out the #1 to 5%. Other than that everyting is a go. Has way more low and mid range power. I also noticed it runs cooler. No poping on decel and no black smoke under power.

jgz408
5th November 2008, 01:44
Very helpful... thanks for the help, the original instructions that came with SERF are a little shaky.... ummm... i couldn't find a good placement for the unit. If you have pic id would be very helpful..

Thanks again

cbrum2622
17th December 2008, 22:36
Well, I purchased the Race Fueler on ebay for very cheap, (obviously since it has been dicontinued). When I first installed the SERF, I could not get it tuned correctly and could not really understand it, and then removed it. Thanks to this post I got a better idea.

So, I decided to try it again, but this time I made my own stage 1 air cleaner "cut-up" first (also from this site). Then re-installed the SERF. This time the SERf responded alot better with the motorcycle. I used this post to pre-tune the SERF and then went from there with my own differences.

I just wanted to tell everyone how helpful the site is, and that my Sporty really scoots now. I might take a dyno run and see what the computer says about it, and make more changes from there.

Thanks

Gunfighter13
17th December 2008, 22:59
Well, I purchased the Race Fueler on ebay for very cheap, (obviously since it has been dicontinued). When I first installed the SERF, I could not get it tuned correctly and could not really understand it, and then removed it. Thanks to this post I got a better idea.

So, I decided to try it again, but this time I made my own stage 1 air cleaner "cut-up" first (also from this site). Then re-installed the SERF. This time the SERf responded alot better with the motorcycle. I used this post to pre-tune the SERF and then went from there with my own differences.

I just wanted to tell everyone how helpful the site is, and that my Sporty really scoots now. I might take a dyno run and see what the computer says about it, and make more changes from there.

Thanks

What did your settings end up being? Can you post them? They may help someone else tune thier SERF. :banana

AB,Frank
17th December 2008, 23:08
If you look up Pauldm post and thread he's got a good one on there..I think it was in March/08 I had a few on there myself.

Gunfighter13
18th December 2008, 01:28
If you look up Pauldm post and thread he's got a good one on there..I think it was in March/08 I had a few on there myself.

What are you talking about? What good one on there?

sirbOOm
11th January 2009, 02:58
Any idea how I can get a SERF in Argentina? I only have pipes, but no special A/C installed.
I don't like the idle speed (sounds like a honda), and when deaccelerating I hear poppin'/farting.
Also I have high temps.
The SERF can solve this?
Thanks!

Yeah. Order it from Chicago H-D and have it sent to me. Then I'll figure out how much it costs to send it to you down there. Email you what it costs plus, say $10 for my "labor", and on my way to work I'll mail it down there.

dan.adami
2nd February 2009, 21:45
Hi guys, I really need some help here.
I installed the EFI Race Fueler on my 883R 2008 HDI. When I start the engine up, all three LED flashes. Then a weird thing happens! The GREEN LED INDICATES the LOW RANGE RPM!

As I accell the BIKE the LED goes , GREEN (LOW RPM), YELLOW (MID) and RED (HIGH!)

Is something wrong? I tried to connect the wires some other way, but still I got a GREEN LED for LOW RPM RANGE?

I could use some help GUYS!
Thanks...

AB,Frank
6th February 2009, 19:00
Hi guys, I really need some help here.
I installed the EFI Race Fueler on my 883R 2008 HDI. When I start the engine up, all three LED flashes. Then a weird thing happens! The GREEN LED INDICATES the LOW RANGE RPM!

As I accell the BIKE the LED goes , GREEN (LOW RPM), YELLOW (MID) and RED (HIGH!)

Is something wrong? I tried to connect the wires some other way, but still I got a GREEN LED for LOW RPM RANGE?

I could use some help GUYS!
Thanks...


No ...nothing wrong,some are working on diff. color then described that's all. All 3 lights on when you start the engine is normal..it tells you the unit is cycling properly.

If the pots are working properly when adjusting...there's no problem.

dan.adami
14th February 2009, 11:11
Thanks for helping roadtrip.
I'm a little confused here, how do I know the pots aren't backwards? Checking the spark plug from time to time or as I go "clockwise" the engine will behave differently?

How do I make this statement?

Thanks for the help.
Cheers,
Dan.

Recon Dad
24th February 2009, 21:28
rharrison356

Did you have to lift the tank to install the connectors on the fuel injectors?

I plan on installing it tomorrow as the temp is going up to 46f.

cbrum2622
24th February 2009, 21:34
rharrison356

Did you have to lift the tank to install the connectors on the fuel injectors?

I plan on installing it tomorrow as the temp is going up to 46f.

Nope, it is a bit tight in between the heads, but you don't have to move the tank.

Recon Dad
24th February 2009, 21:38
Nope, it is a bit tight in between the heads, but you don't have to move the tank.

Thanks for the reply. I will let you know how the tuning goes.

ekream2
3rd March 2009, 16:01
which pipes and A/C are you running thanks eric

dan.adami
13th March 2009, 04:39
I'm running a K&N Hi-Flo and a Python 3 Slip-Ons.
The thing is that on '08+ XLs the Race Fueler doesn't work well I think!

I've been messing with the pots, besides the backwarded leds I think the pots are also backwards!

As I go turning my dial #1 clockwise the engine starts to reduce its RPM, almost like its going to shut down. I used:

Dial #1 - about 3-3,5 "clicks"
Dial #2 - 2
Dial #3 - 1

As dials #4,5 and 6 here's the deal:

If my #4 dial is fully counter-clockwise the yellow LED comes ON!
I have to put 3+ click then the yellow led comes off and the green led (low RPM) comes on.

As dial #6 I left on fully counterclockwise (click "0")

Are my pots backwards?

Thanks.
Dan!

1Madmachinist
14th March 2009, 02:36
As you turn the 1,2 and 3 pots clockwise you are adding more fuel to low, medium, and high rpm ranges respectively. So you may be getting to a point where you are flooding the engine, especially if you are adjusting it at idle or slightly above. This would explain your engine stumble. I am not sure what the settings would be for the 883 but I would suspect that they slightly lower than for the 1200 due to the slightly smaller amount of air that the 883 can suck in. Personally I added my SERF after I added only the mufflers, and the damn thing always ran rich. I recently added the SE air cleaner kit and adjusted it as per this thread and it has been running rather well. The power has picked up a bit and the fuel economy is close to what it was when it was stock (when I stay out of the throttle). I have yet to find the perfect settings for the accelerator pump or the cross-over ranges but really have yet to spend much time with it. I also noticed that no one has posted any dyno results yet. I recently met a HD tech at a party who told me that these things can be a bit of a bitch to tune on the dyno but for the price that they are going for they can't be beat. More thoughts and ideas would be appreciated.

dan.adami
14th March 2009, 23:18
Thanks for the reply my friend!
That's exactly whats going on my Race Fueler.
At a first glance I added my Python 3 Slip-Ons and the Race Fueler, even on fully anti-clock on all three upper pots, richs the engine up! over-rich sort of speak.

Then I added the K&N Hi-Flo A/F, everything is okay. I'm having a bit of a bad time setting the cut-overs and AE as well.

I'll try to keep up with the feedback!
Once again, thanks for helping me.

Dan.

1Madmachinist
15th March 2009, 01:06
No problem. I am not sure what to do about the AE setting yet. The bike still sometimes stumbles when I jerk the throttle open. Can't remember what it is set at right off the top of my head but as I said before I haven't had much time to mess with it. We had nice weather last week and I got to ride most of the week. It ran pretty good with the exception of the AE issue. The weather went to sh!t this weekend and its sat since about Wednesday. Anyway keep posting on your progress and I will do the same.

Recon Dad
15th March 2009, 20:58
Just installed the HD Race Fueler. All three lights pulsated rapidly when I start it.

The green is on at low range then yellow then red. The problem I have is it is not adjustable? It runs so rich raw fuel is pouring out the exhaust? Seems like the injectors are pulsing all the time?

Tried all the pots fully counterclock wise and fully clockwise. No difference.

Shut it down and removed it as the oil is probably contaminated with fuel.

The bike is a 2008 XL1200L with SE Exhaust. Will try it again with the Heavy Breather Intake?

dan.adami
16th March 2009, 00:15
Okay ReconDad, that whats happened to me when I went mufflers only!
I tricked the pots, all the way, backwards, forward and nothing seemed to work, except the over-riched engine.

I still think there's something wrong about Race Fueler 07+ and Sportsters '08 later EFI.

They didn't seem to work well together! Try to install a hi-flow air intake and reconfigurate the pots.
Please keep up the feedback to really help us out here!

I'll do the same.
Cheers,
Dan.

1Madmachinist
16th March 2009, 01:35
Also, and I hate to say it, but insure that the plugs going to the injectors are installed properly. Sometimes we miss the simple shit. The rapid pulsation is supposed to happen as per the instructions. The addition of fuel via turning the pots is sometimes only noticeable under load and with the addition of only mufflers (which don't tend to need as much fuel as an AC upgrade) may only be adding too much fuel causing an over rich condition. Have you tried running the bike with no fuel adder ie. uninstalling the SERF. You may not need the SERF with mufflers only.

Recon Dad
16th March 2009, 05:14
1Madmachinist 1Madmachinist

Thanks for the feedback. I bought the serf on ebay because they are not available from HD anymore. I plan on ending up with the HD Heavy Breather and Hooker TroubleMakers or Vance and Hines Side Shots.

The instructions said that with the pots set at 0 the fuel mixture was -10%. I thought I would be ok without modding with just the SE slip ons.

Will try it again with new exhaust and intake.

Thanks for the reply. I though I may of had a defective unit.

I disconnected it and took it for a ride and it runs fine.

Recon Dad
16th March 2009, 05:48
dan.adami

Thanks Dan for your reply. I will give feedback after I install more aggressive exhaust and intake.

Thought I would be ok when they said 0 on the pot was -10%.

I'm an old school carb tuner. We used to drill out the jets with machinist drill bits till the car ran good then started to decrease. We would then solder up the jets and drill out to the value before.

Started out with a Harley Hummer in the 50's and got a 1960 Sportster XLCH that was modified by an Unauthorized Harley Dealer in Beaufort SC.

The bike would lift the front wheel in all the gears.

Wish I could find somebody now that could tune like that.

cbrum2622
16th March 2009, 17:52
Just installed the HD Race Fueler. All three lights pulsated rapidly when I start it.

The green is on at low range then yellow then red. The problem I have is it is not adjustable? It runs so rich raw fuel is pouring out the exhaust? Seems like the injectors are pulsing all the time?

Tried all the pots fully counterclock wise and fully clockwise. No difference.

Shut it down and removed it as the oil is probably contaminated with fuel.

The bike is a 2008 XL1200L with SE Exhaust. Will try it again with the Heavy Breather Intake?

Maybe the injector connector's were hooked up backwards.

Recon Dad
16th March 2009, 19:31
Maybe the injector connector's were hooked up backwards.

The front fuel injector wires had a wire marker with "FF" on it. The SERF instructions gave the wire colors for the front and rear injectors. The bike ran fine after disconnecting it.

I tend to agree with Dan that they might not be compatible with thr 08 models.


Okay ReconDad, that whats happened to me when I went mufflers only!
I tricked the pots, all the way, backwards, forward and nothing seemed to work, except the over-riched engine.

I still think there's something wrong about Race Fueler 07+ and Sportsters '08 later EFI.

They didn't seem to work well together! Try to install a hi-flow air intake and reconfigurate the pots.
Please keep up the feedback to really help us out here!

I'll do the same.
Cheers,
Dan.

dan.adami
17th March 2009, 18:07
Hi guys, I checked and double checked the connections to my Race Fueler, everything is all right!

I'm still having some issues on it, so I decided to turn it off (hook off the wires).
Back on standard ECM I noticed that my bike is leaner, but not too lean. I rode about 80 miles then checked my spark plugs. (tan-browned on the center, very light brown on the outside ring).

Rode a few more miles (it's being a 40 Celsius Weather here, very hot). Checked my plugs again, everything seems normal. No backfire (just a few times on deccel, its normal on my Python 3) no over-heated engine.

I'm a little disapointed right now, I bought one '07+ later Race Fueler, imported to Brazil, paid 60% taxes, installed and doesn't seems to work right!

I still think that Race Fuelers (07 later) and '08 model don't FIT, and my ECM is compensating the changes on the A/C (Hi-Flow K&N) and the Slip-Ons (Python 3).

Just a reminder, my 08' bike is a 883R HDI model.

Any other feedback people?
Hope it helps.

Dan.

cbrum2622
17th March 2009, 19:19
Hi guys, I checked and double checked the connections to my Race Fueler, everything is all right!

I'm still having some issues on it, so I decided to turn it off (hook off the wires).
Back on standard ECM I noticed that my bike is leaner, but not too lean. I rode about 80 miles then checked my spark plugs. (tan-browned on the center, very light brown on the outside ring).

Rode a few more miles (it's being a 40 Celsius Weather here, very hot). Checked my plugs again, everything seems normal. No backfire (just a few times on deccel, its normal on my Python 3) no over-heated engine.

I'm a little disapointed right now, I bought one '07+ later Race Fueler, imported to Brazil, paid 60% taxes, installed and doesn't seems to work right!

I still think that Race Fuelers (07 later) and '08 model don't FIT, and my ECM is compensating the changes on the A/C (Hi-Flow K&N) and the Slip-Ons (Python 3).

Just a reminder, my 08' bike is a 883R HDI model.

Any other feedback people?
Hope it helps.

Dan.

Now, I am not positive about the assumption I am about to give here, but, I would like to chime in.

When I purchased my SERF (from eBay), I went to my local dealer to inquire about it, just to ask questions, tips, hints kind-of-a-thing, they told me that the SERF was "discontinued" because it had become obsolete. I do not know exactly what they meant by "obsolete", but, maybe that has something to do with it not working on 08+ models.

Hope that helps.:smoke

dan.adami
19th March 2009, 15:16
I just got my spark plugs checked, without the Race Fueler. I'm using a K&N Hi-Flow Air Filter and a Python 3 Slip-Ons.

Here's the condition of my spark plugs H-D OEM (gapped at 0.04" or 10.1 mm Metric).

http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/890/dsc01425q.jpg

The two sparks (front and rear cylinder looks the same, has the same condition above).

Yesterday, I updated my spark plugs with a new pair of Denso Iridium Power Spark Plugs, gapped at 0.04" also.

Let me say you! Damn... Makes a difference. Smoother acceleration, less vibration on high speeds (cruisin' at 90 mph).

I don't care if Stephen Hawking says "No, it doesn't makes a difference, they are all the same.." He's probably wrong! (well, its a little difficult Stephen Hawking been wrong LOL!)
That's how I did:

Installed the Iridium Plugs, went crusin' for about 50 miles. Went back home. Swaped the plugs (installed the OEM H-D plugs) and did the same thing. Went cruisin' for the same 50 miles, the same traject, the same road, the same speed, the same day and weather! Has a DIFFERENCE, the engine has NOTICEABLE less VIBRATION, starts easier and has a few more ACCELERATION.

Reminder:
I'm running stock EFI (w/o Race Fueler installed) with an K&N Hi-Flow Filter and Python 3 Slip-Ons. My 883R has 3500 miles on it.
It seems fine by now!

That's it my friends, hope it helps!
Dan.

Recon Dad
20th March 2009, 01:29
Dan,

How many miles on the plugs. They look good. I have 5,000 on mine and they are grey, running too lean.

What part of Brazil are you in? I spent some time in Volta Redonda, Usiminas, Timoteo, Sao Paulo and Pinta.

dan.adami
20th March 2009, 01:40
Hi Recon Dad.
I have 3200 miles on my old sparks (the ones in the photo), changed to Denso Iridium Power Plugs yesterday.

I live in Curitiba, near São Paulo (about 220 miles).
Great to have a friend that knows my country...:)

Cheers,
Dan.

cbrum2622
21st March 2009, 17:44
What did your settings end up being? Can you post them? They may help someone else tune thier SERF. :banana

Well, after my previous post, I again removed my SERF in frustration. Recently I purchased the SE intake, and installed that. In the mean time I am frequently following this thread.

Since I installed the new intake, I figured I would give the SERF another try, with a new approach. Try and follow me here:
-If dials 1-3 are -10% to +40%, I am starting with them at 0%
-As for dial 6, I will leave that at 0 adjustment as well.
-I am basically going to install the SERF with no changes. to the stock a/f (or so I think).
-As for dials 4-5, I still don't understand how to adjust these. I understand that they signify the crossover ranges in RPM, but what does the dial adjustments tell me? Is it scaled in RPM's, percentages, etc.

Any help on dials 4-5 would be cool.

So, at basically stock settings, I do notice there is still the off-idle delay that needs to be worked out. However, I figure start from stock and adjust from there. Dial everything up a little at a time, over a period of time.

Well, I'll keep things posted.
-Chris

jeffy
11th June 2009, 19:21
leave the case of it open and start to turn the throttle up. it will light up one of the leds that will be crossover point low-mid keep throttling up and the other led will light, thats the mid-high crossover. check back at post number 1 and follow from there. its not that bad just a little time consuming dont do the high right after finishing the low, the bikes not gonna like sitting still with the throttle locked at high rpm.

dan.adami
26th July 2009, 19:10
Just changed my K&N Element (Standard Air Filter) to the Harley Davidson Heavy Breather. Trying to set the Race Fueler up. My bike is to damn rich on low range RPM, sometimes it stumbles and shuts down, like it "drowns itself" in gasoline (I'm not familiar with the "drown in gasoline" sentence.Its just a rough approximation on my native language term, sorry). I'll keep up with the settings, and post it here.

'08 Sportster 883R, Heavy Breather Air Filter, Python 3 Slip-Ons and XL '07+ Race Fueler.

Cheers my friends.
Dan.

Gunfighter13
28th July 2009, 21:18
I still think that Race Fuelers (07 later) and '08 model don't FIT, and my ECM is compensating the changes on the A/C (Hi-Flow K&N) and the Slip-Ons (Python 3).

Just a reminder, my 08' bike is a 883R HDI model.

Any other feedback people?
Hope it helps.

Dan.

They work fine on the 08/09 bikes.

dan.adami
30th July 2009, 01:21
Hi Gunfighter13, I'm trying to set it up.
Could you please tell me what the lower right pot is for, Throttle Enhancer I think, but how it works?

If you set the RF up with a good and rich mixture thru all the three bands (low, mid and high) why bother with this TE pot?

Does it over-rich the mixture when you throttle all the way up?

Could you please send us your band settings?
Thanks mate!
Cheers.

Gunfighter13
30th July 2009, 02:01
Hi Gunfighter13, I'm trying to set it up.
Could you please tell me what the lower right pot is for, Throttle Enhancer I think, but how it works?

If you set the RF up with a good and rich mixture thru all the three bands (low, mid and high) why bother with this TE pot?

Does it over-rich the mixture when you throttle all the way up?

Could you please send us your band settings?
Thanks mate!
Cheers.

Look at posts #1, # 30 and mine #42.
The #6 pod acts like the Accelerator pump on a carb. Read the posts, it will help you alot.

smoked883
23rd August 2009, 08:48
Hello alll,
I have an 08 883 low. Just swapped to 1200 cylinders, 883/1200 piston kit, se cam(536), se big breather ac, w/ v&h shortshots, and 1200 stage1 download. I'm stationed in Guam for next 2 years with no dyno. will the sert work for me? If so, any link to fine tuning?

dan.adami
28th August 2009, 20:50
Well I think it'll work... Just give it a try, those RF are model based, not displacement based (anyone correct me if I'm wrong). The same XL model RF works on 883 and 1200cc.

Cheers,
Dan.

dan.adami
31st August 2009, 18:08
Hi guys, I have a question about RF.
My bike is runnin' okay with it, good in deed.

Why does the dial "5" (Mid-High cut over) needs to be set on "0" position!? 4500 rpm?

What happens when you turn it clockwise 4500 rpm and above?
(If you set the low-mid cut over dial number "4" on position "0" Fully-counterclockwise the yellow light comes up, mid-one indicating that something is wrong...)

Thanks,
Dan.

soyokaze
28th November 2009, 22:13
Hi Harrison!

This post is really awesome! :banana

So, I´d like to add some potentiometer diagrams that I did.
It really helped me a lot!

SERF_Diagram.pdf - 11.4 Kb (http://www.turboupload.com/stvwxyu25ty1/SERF_Diagram.pdf.html) :banadanc

Also, the correct position on Dial 4 is 4 (1940 rpm), the 3 is for 1680 rpm.

Anyway, many thanks! :clap

Regards,
Carlos.

flashedwards
29th November 2009, 01:01
I've been reading this thread with interest 'cuz I don't know diddley about FI. I've heard that the SERF (Race Fuelers) are obsolete and are no longer in production, but are still available through various sourses..ebay being one of them. I have an '09 1200N and I was wondering if a SERF #32173-07 would fit. The ad says for '07+ XL's, but I thought that I had better check with you guys before I bought it. How do the SERF's stack-up against the PC-lll's, PC-lV's and the other fuel management systems? As the bike sits now it has a SE Heavy Breather, modified SE Street Performance muffs and Nightrider AFXiED's (adjustable) set for approx. 13.8:1 AFR. This may be the dumb question of the day but I would assume that the AFXiED's would have to go if the SERF was installed.
Thanks in advance,
Flash Edwards

Krlyman
10th May 2010, 01:28
Is there a similar thread for making the SERT more understandable? It would be a reasonable stickie as well.

dlbailer
3rd December 2010, 17:20
Can I use this (HD Part # 32173-07) SERF on my 2009 1200 Custom even though it's for a 2007?

prceasar
2nd June 2011, 06:17
I have the '07 serf Installed on My 08 nightster and it works fine. (well, needs a little tweaking. Some stumbling on acceleration from idle). Seems like it should be fine for those 09 models.

Side note: not sure I get dial 6. Is this maybe the cause of the issue I'm seeing? Could someone explain what the effects would be of setting this dial too low or too high?

bobpilot
6th June 2011, 14:04
the # 6 dial works as an accelerator pump, squirting gas as you twist the throttle. if you're stumbling from idle, try setting that # 6 a little higher. that may do the trick. go lightly with it though, I killed my gas mileage by setting it too high! although it went like a beast.

prceasar
6th June 2011, 15:58
Tanks, bobpilot. I'll try that!

kblack1101
21st July 2011, 01:53
I am having some serious problems getting any positive results with this thing. I have followed this thread as well as the HD instructions to a T. Even when I think I have it set properly, as soon as I get it on the street it just stumbles.
I cant tell if its too rich or too lean because it is hesitating so much, but running hotter than blazes!
Is anyone out there that can help solidify some real data for these things?

dlbailer
22nd July 2011, 15:52
No experience with race fueler, I used (SEST) super tuner. I found that the manual was informative and I got some decent results but, as stated in the manual, to really fine tune it was recommended to use a dyno. After finally getting it tuned on a dyno , I pulled 90.88 HP / 77.18 Torque . Upgrades were N4 cams, D&D Bobcat header, SE A/C (now replaced w/ NRHS Hurricane A/C .

kblack1101
22nd July 2011, 16:01
No experience with race fueler, I used (SEST) super tuner.... End post.
The rest of your post hasn't helped anyone who is looking for race fueler help. If you want to brag about your bike and all its bits, there are other places to do that. Back them up with some screenshots of your Dyno runs.

dlbailer
22nd July 2011, 16:19
See attached

Krlyman
23rd July 2011, 13:21
No experience with race fueler, I used (SEST) super tuner. I found that the manual was informative and I got some decent results but, as stated in the manual, to really fine tune it was recommended to use a dyno. After finally getting it tuned on a dyno , I pulled 90.88 HP / 77.18 Torque . Upgrades were N4 cams, D&D Bobcat header, SE A/C (now replaced w/ NRHS Hurricane A/C .

dbailer,
Did you see any significant difference in the NRHS Hurricane over the SE air cleaner?

dlbailer
23rd July 2011, 13:53
Supposedly Hurricane is good for 2-3 HP over SE A/C. Seat of the pants can't tell any difference. Top shelf construction, has to breath better since more of air filter is exposed and I bought center mount 2" model. Very pleased with purchase.

bobpilot
23rd July 2011, 16:24
kblack1101, getting back to the SERF, I have had one on the '07 1200R since I installed an open AC and pipes on the bike. I had the bike flashed at the dealer immediately, but it still ran very lean and hot! I found a SERF on fleabay cheap, and installed it. I used the settings from others on this forum as a starting point, and then tuned it as best as I could by the seat of the pants and plug reads. Because I had a different starting point then others ( the re-flash ), my settings are a bit different. I find the SERF to be sensitive, but accurate in doing what it's supposed to do.
I know there are many other tuners out there now, but my SERF works for me, and I see no reason to change it. If you need to find a starting point for settings, the first
post in this thread, and some others, specifically the one with the pics of the unit, are very good. Hope you get yours running right. Bob
Ride safe and often!
PS: the post by Gunfighter13, I think #42, has very good info.

kblack1101
28th July 2011, 19:35
Bob, Thank you for the input. It is encouraging to hear someone with positive results on the fueler.
I am going to sit down with this thing once the weather is consistently below 90 degrees and really take my time with it.
Thanks again

Armedtrigger01
24th June 2012, 18:06
I got this thing put on this weekend got it off eBay for 80 bucks. I used Gunfighter13's setting post 42 as a starting point and noticed an immediate improvement. I am running a screaming eagle intake oval, demon cycles drag pipes, and a stage 1 download that I wish I had never done. The only thing I got out of it was the high rev limit the bike ran like crap and they told me when I asked about it that the stage 1 would not be enough with what I had on it but they took my money before they told me so they will only see warranty work from me now. It's a 2011 iron 883 I still need to tweak it a little as it's very hot here 100 degree weather I think I still have it a little rich but it no longer cuts out and acting like it's running out of gas a t cruise speed. On a side note where should I shoot the head with my IR thermometer to get a true temp read and what should it be? Over all good product and with all the info on this thread was able to get it as close as I can till it cools off bit love how the bike runs now feels like it wants to pull the front wheel of the ground when on it hard and shifting into second so I don't have to trade it for a yamaha now :-) thanks to all who have posted.

bobpilot
25th June 2012, 21:31
I haven't seen much on this subject till your post Armedtrigger01, but I'll say that I have had great luck with my fueler. I don't even think about it much anymore now, but I know I can adjust it if I need to. It's performed very well once I got it dialed in, and like you I got mine cheap on ebay, and used posts on the forum to get a starting point for tuning. I can't justify $500 or better to tune my bike, this was a excellent and cost effective way to get the bike running as it should. By the way, I also had the stage 1 download from my H-D dealer before I got the Race Fueler and it made it harder to dial in, but I got it to work with help from this site.

hairy
2nd November 2012, 04:07
Hey guys sorry I dig up an old thread but I have just bought one of these off eBay for just over $100 and thought if it doesn't work well for me no big loss.
So much cheaper than sert plus cables and software $700 in aus.
I'm just wondering how this will go after I do a 1250 kit.
Already have short shots and k&n filter on my 883 and am sticking with stock cams.
Will keep u guys updated when I install it

hairy
30th December 2012, 20:11
Well guys bike is now running with kieth black forged pistons 1200cc 9.2-1 comp self ported heads and outlaw air filter and she runs like a dream.
When I started it had a stumble off idle but I turned up the accelerator pump pot and she is now breaking in pulls really well now with a load more torque.
I had to turn my pots up to around 3/4 probly because of my 883 ECM but I'm happy with the results so far.
I think this is a great option for anyone doing the 1200 conversion on the cheap