View Full Version : S & S 91" Sportster Motor


Batpappy
3rd March 2007, 04:32
I saw they have these in the new '07 catalog, I am facing a complete rebuild on my 2000 1200s and was wondering if this was an option as fas as cost and value, versus a nrhs bid bore kits plus a new harley flywheel/crank assembly, the kit from nrhs is 750 and the flywheel assembly 1600 from harley. s&s did not list the price of the motor. any help is welcome.

DC in PHX
3rd March 2007, 04:37
I think that motor is 5K $ or more. nice powerplant though. You can't go wrong with NRHS
Welcome to the forum
DC

Stingray
3rd March 2007, 09:26
I have an off the wall question. If you do not mind, how come your are facing a rebuild on a 6-7 year old motor? Is there a design flaw or some thing wrong?

If this is too personal just ignore me and I will go away.

Does anyone know th cost of the S&S? I want to spart planning a custom build, just wondering which route to go. Rebuild or new.

Thanks,

Sportster1200
3rd March 2007, 09:52
S&S 91 inch goes for about 8K if I remember right. That is for a whole new motor.

A high end Zippers kit is about 5K based on your engine.

A lot of money. A nicely rebuilt 1200 with some head work etc. is starting to sound like a bargain...

Kong

Batpappy
3rd March 2007, 14:50
the question is a valid one nharp, and as a matter of fact i could use the help of the folks on here to figure out if this dealer is farming my bike for money, because i dont have it to spare. heres the deal, last summer when up in the mountains i had an exhaust valve stick a fry a niche in it, with no money and on the road i did a low/no budget valve job in a buddies garage, during reassembly a forest fire was bearing down(within 1 block) and i rushed through and the gaskets ended up leaking (but the valve job itself was solid).
so since i no longer have a garage i go to a dealer and ask him to fix the leaks, hone the cylinders(saw some scoring when it was apart) put in rings and check out an intermittent tapping sound (like a loose primary chain slapping the case). now no bones about it i ride the thing like a rented mule, and because of finances i neglected her a bit but the dealer says (after a few days)the jugs are all sealed up and tidy with my new ar pipes on , even invited me in to gaze at the beauty and sell me a tire, then he call a couple of days later, first he says the tech mis-diagnosed it and it wasnt the chain, i said" what kind of moron seals up the cylinders without checking a bottom noise first" he agrees and said the "master tech obviously did things in the wrong order and he would be doing free labor to tear it back apart, then says, oh the primary chain slap was just one noise and covered up the noise of a bigger problem, and THAT noise was the bearings (dont know the name) that connect the rods to the crank, he says it only comes in all one piece from harley so i have to replace flywheels and all. i asked to see them and they do seem a little rough (not totally smooth when you turn the crank) but he also claimed that the bits of metal from these intact but grindy bearings got between the pistons and cylinder walls and now the jugs and all need to be replaced, i saw the gouging but it looked real recent and dry, i also noticed they were still the old carbon covered pistons with shiney silver jagged gouge marks, my question is this, since i heard no other noise when i took it in, is it possible this idiot caused the failure (starting without oil or something stupid like that) and why wouldn't the shavings just sink in the oil and go to the magnetic plug instead of zooming to the cylinder wallss and squeezing in between piston and cylinder? could these cylinders not be bored? he seems to be making enough concessions (allowing aftermarket parts in a dealer shop is verboten) to make me think he is hiding something. please help

rottenralph
3rd March 2007, 15:18
First off, you can bore up to 40 over on the cylinders. I did a ten miler on no oil before I got to do the top end over. I had a cracked piston and some healthy scoring in the cylinders. I am no expert on bottom ends but I think I would pick up the phone and call nhrs and see if the bottom end can be rebuilt. There are engines on ebay that sell for less than you are going to get taken for when they charge you for the fly wheels and rods. Here is the number for nhrs 303-833-4500. Before I reuilt a stock engine, mine would become a 90 inch monster compliments of nhrs. I would buy a tent or rent a storage unit and get to work over there. If you have the skills you can pull the engine, ship it out to a competent shop and have it turned into a beast for the price you will pay to get back what you had. You are not that Far from the Denver area to make a weekend road trip and drop your bike off at their doorstep.

lagerdrinker
3rd March 2007, 15:30
ide go with an nrhs built motor before any assembly line engine for sure.
88"-or more. these guys have the fastest v-twin, cant go wrong.
i have their 1250 setup and couldnt be happier.