This is my first post for my first Sporty... so bear with me. I was looking at the new Kuryakyn catalog and on page 133 in the chrome section, under "Tech-Tips" is says "Always use Anti-Seize on the threads before assembling chrome, stainless steel or nylon inserted nuts or bolts. Otherwise a cold weld condition will occur." 1. What is a cold weld? 2. Is anti-seize different than LocTite? and 3. I was told that nylon inserted nuts don't need LocTite, is that correct? This is a GREAT forum. I've only had the ride for 3 weeks and already learned a lot from this place. Thanks

When you combine dis-similar metals you can get a corrosion. I think it may be caused by electrolysis and that's probably what they're referring to. If you put a steel bolt into aluminum some corrosion can form around the threads and when you take the bolt out it can take some threads with it. Anti-seize and thread lock are two different things. Things like spark plugs that go into aluminum and will be frequently removed should have anti-seize on the threads. Bolts that can rattle loose and aren't frequently removed often have a drop of blue loctite on them. Nylock nuts have nylon on them that keeps them from coming loose. You don't need loctite on them.

The technical term is "seize" and it happens most often when similar metals are assembled dry, but I have seen cadmium plated fasteners seize in cast aluminum and rip the threads out upon removal. Stainless steel (and "most" other) fasteners should always be lubricated before being installed either with a quality EP grease, anti-seize, or loctite.

Here is a good "fastener" reference.
http://gltrs.grc.nasa.gov/reports/1990/RP-1228.pdf

: Mike:tour

I see it's your first post. Hello from Pittsburgh and welcome to the XLForum.

You're right, nylon insert nuts (Nyloc) don't need threadlocker. However they're not a great solution (they can't be reused); you're better off with regular nuts and threadlocker. They say Nyloc nuts need anti seize, because although part of the nut has a nylon insert, it's still possible for galvanic corrosion to occur on the metal part.

Anti seize is not the same as threadlocker. Loctite (the company) make anti seize products, but that's not the same thing. However, threadlocker (if you use enough of it) will prevent galling and galvanic corrosion.

Thanks everyone for the replies. All of you were a big help!
Thanks

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cold_welding

Fox

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cold_welding

Fox

Foxster, I think you'll find that the link you have given is an explanation of something totally different. Here is a link that explains in detail what they are actually referring to:

http://www.engineersedge.com/galvanic_capatability.htm

On motorcycles they usually try to prevent this by using finishes and plating. The problem comes in when rusting occurs causing the original finish a plating to degrade. This same effect often occurs on household hot water heaters depending on the ground and type of water in the area.

Foxster, I think you'll find that the link you have given is an explanation of something totally different. Here is a link that explains in detail what they are actually referring to:

http://www.engineersedge.com/galvanic_capatability.htm

On motorcycles they usually try to prevent this by using finishes and plating. The problem comes in when rusting occurs causing the original finish a plating to degrade. This same effect often occurs on household hot water heaters depending on the ground and type of water in the area.Maybe, but electolytic/galvanic/cathodic reaction between dissimilar metals usually causes corrosion and loose joints rather than welding. A common Sporty example is the steel bolts in the lead battery connections.

Cold welding occurs when two smooth metals surfaces are forced together under pressure, just like you get when tightening a bolt or fastening two flat surfaces together with nuts and bolts. Atoms from the joined surfaces migrate between the parts where they touch creating a single joined surface. Additionally, over time, the contact surface increases as the material's peaks and troughs are reduced due to the pressure and migration, so the cold welding increases over time.

Fox

When you combine dis-similar metals you can get a corrosion. I think it may be caused by electrolysis and that's probably what they're referring to. If you put a steel bolt into aluminum some corrosion can form around the threads and when you take the bolt out it can take some threads with it. Anti-seize and thread lock are two different things. Things like spark plugs that go into aluminum and will be frequently removed should have anti-seize on the threads. Bolts that can rattle loose and aren't frequently removed often have a drop of blue loctite on them. Nylock nuts have nylon on them that keeps them from coming loose. You don't need loctite on them.

MadMax25:
Exhaust minifold nuts seem to require both.
Antiseize - cause they get extremely hot
Loctite - cause they are subjuct to heating and cooling
cycles which tend to loosen them.
My guess would be antiseize cause it's way too hot for
Loctite to function properly.
But, if I play the other side of the fence,
why put an antiseize lubricant on parts that tend to go thru
loosening heating and cooling cycles?
What is the best stuff for exhaust nuts and why?

Exhaust minifold nuts seem to require both.
Antiseize - cause they get extremely hot
Loctite - cause they are subjuct to heating and cooling
cycles which tend to loosen them.
My guess would be antiseize cause it's way too hot for
Loctite to function properly.
But, if I play the other side of the fence,
why put an antiseize lubricant on parts that tend to go thru
loosening heating and cooling cycles?
What is the best stuff for exhaust nuts and why?

Look closely at the exhaust nuts. They are designed to compress and stay tight against the flange. The fastener is designed so that Loctite shouldn't be necessary if they are tightened to spec. The nuts really shouldn't be re-used.
Loctite Silver anti-seize is good to 1,600 deg f. Copper anti-seize is 1,800 deg f.
I use graphite on the Ironhead exhaust clamps. Don't use graphite with aluminum.

Look closely at the exhaust nuts. They are designed to compress and stay tight against the flange. The fastener is designed so that Loctite shouldn't be necessary if they are tightened to spec. The nuts really shouldn't be re-used.
Loctite Silver anti-seize is good to 1,600 deg f. Copper anti-seize is 1,800 deg f.
I use graphite on the Ironhead exhaust clamps. Don't use graphite with aluminum.

MadMax25:
I've heard about missing exhaust flange fasteners in several posts.
As you wrote, anti-seize, new nuts and proper torquing
is what is required here. One could also drill the nuts
and wire them as done in aviation.

FWIW
I use Copper anti sneeze on the exhaust nuts and torque to 120 In Lbs

What is the anti seize called that is made by Loctite? I went to the Loctite web page but there was no product in the search of "anti seize". Could it be called another name? I'm still confused as to when to use Loctite vs. anti seize.

What is the anti seize called that is made by Loctite? I went to the Loctite web page but there was no product in the search of "anti seize". Could it be called another name?

Loctite C5-A is the copper.
Permatex makes it too >click< (http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/lubricants/specialty_lubricants/Permatex_Copper_Anti-Seize_Lubricant_b.htm)

More fun anti-seize info, follow the link:

http://www.sacskyranch.com/antiseize.htm

: Mike:tour

Loctite C5-A is available as 8065 (stick), 8007 (aerorsol), or 8008 (brush top can), among others. Perhaps the stick (8065):

http://www.tools-supplies.co.uk/ekmps/shops/sjhowardwork/images/vc977.jpg

is the most useful for us.

They make many other more specialized anti seizes, check out the Adhesives Source Book (http://www.loctite.com/com/content_data/70661_2008_LT3355_ASB_v8.pdf) (11.32 MB), page 64 - 69.