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View Full Version : 2008 Trask intercooled Turbo sportster QUESTIONS answered!!!!


gmc1952
21st September 2009, 00:16
Here is the private message i have gotten to start me on this topic,One of many actually.

I've been doing some research on the Trask turbo system. As far as I can tell, you are the only one on the forum with one installed. So, I'm doing my investigation/research now.

I noted you said in this thread (http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/showthread.php?t=538047):

its a trask turbo system that i am making better as i go, to be honest i am glad i got it used second hand because they really do some shotty work and if i paid full price like they ask for in the kit i would be pissed off with what i would have gotten. But thats an entirely different story...


I was just wondering if you wouldn't mind explaining that a little? What kind of shotty work? Nasty welds? Poor design? Poor hardware? Crappy chrome?

From reading your various posts, it also sounds like you know a thing or two about turbos. I understand that intercoolers make a HUGE difference in most applications (cars/trucks). And I have no doubt there is an improvement on a bike, but I'm wondering how much it would hurt to not run one. I'm not big into chrome and skulls or anything, but I'm really not a fan of the look of an intercooler on a naked air cooled bike.

Any other insights you care to share would be appreciated. Thanks!

jeffy
21st September 2009, 00:28
no intercooler on an air cooled motor is gonna make a disaster. the motor gets hot enough as it is and turbo motors run really hot especially without an intercooler.

gmc1952
21st September 2009, 00:40
well about the chrome thing i dont like it either i posted a newer pic of my bike with the trask system black and my newer nightster tank,since my original large tank dident fit with my intercooler.

The kit i got was made for the smaller peanut tank,so thats what i bought,so i can finally use my entire tank of fuel.(had to put a 3" tank lift on the old tank to make it work and clear my intercooler).

Anyways about the intercooler you dont have to run one and to be honest i am going to make a intercooler delete pipe for my system as well,just so i can swap back and forth with it.

The intercooler does two things besides looking alittle odd on the bike:o First it cools the air going into the intake dropping the temp in the intake air means more air being shoved inside the cylinders since its more dense which in turn means more power,ruffly 5-10hp at least on my trask system it is.
It also does cool down the intake and motor even though it might be small,meaning a longer living system.

Now the question you asked about if i would buy a trask system new for the price.NO WAY!!!! Not for the 5 grand price tag it has,way over priced.

To make my system work the way it should have worked when i got it or at least how it should have worked if i bought it new from them.

I have had to redo ALL WELDS ,HEAD WELDS,EXHAUST WELDS,AS WELL AS THE INTERCOOLER WELDS. The only thing that saved me a ton in $$ redoing these things is i work in a VW/Sandcar shop where we work on turbo systems all day long and i have access to the tig welder i need and wire to do this with all for free...Thank god!!!

Secondly when i first bolted on the system even though it was used with in the first week i blew off the Blow of valve LITTERLY!!! crusing down the highway at 60mph throttled it got to 70 and then it lost boost rapidly and i was like what the F..... drove the bike home only to look down and there sitting between the motor and exhaust was their shitty china made BOV which again blew off because of someones shitty welds.

So what did i do i took off the intake hat and got myself a Greddy Type R adjustable BOV from work($300BOV) alittle over kill maybe, then drilled and threaded their intake hat to except the FLANGED BOV with a gasket and two bolts instead of their shitty welded on one which is not adjustable at all.So if you ever want more boost forget it, unless you switch it like i did to an adjustable one.

Also their turbo oil drain line is shotty a piece of rubber hose with two clamps on two push on brass fittings.Again changed it to Earl AN -8 fittings and earls new Kevlar woven hose with a teflon inside.No leaks and the hose can withstand extreme temps and should last a very long time. The hose was originally made for the fire departments.

Now for the good news the Best pieces out of this kit it the turbo a GT2252 Garret turbo very efficent and well working hasent given me troubles at all.I probably should rebuild it since everything else at this point has been done.

Secondly their intake hat is much bulkier then i would have liked and i could have made my own much smaller but it does work and seal very well.Just dont brake their intake hat to cover gasket its $50 and you can only get it from them..dont ask how i know this....

Also the handle bar boost gauge is of good quality its an autometer unit and their handle bar clamp for it is very well made.Best part of the entire kit and it only costs $200 from them new,if i was going to build my own system i would get this piece from them for sure.But it does comes in there kit for the 5g's.

Other then that the program they give you for it is very accurate as well or at least pretty close to what it will run with.Loaded after i installed the kit and i drove it with their system maps for 3,000 miles no problems or backfires or anything.Great Tuning maps, i dont think i could have done any better myself with them.But the maps to get me started that Nick gave me was great as well as being the best free thing i got:D

As of currently i am still runnning this system with the intercooler as well as i have had to redo the maps for my new mods i have made to the bike.

I am currently running the trask intercooled system as well as SE.551 cams and Beehive springs(7000rpm) as well as my ported and polished heads and back cut valves to improve my flow and air into the motor as well as letting me get a bit more power out of it.

At this point i am currently running maps similar to a vrod destroyer. ( i know since i compared my maps with the destroyer maps that come with the SERT CD,just got curious one day) And the bike is still very manageable on the street but when you jump on it you better hold on.

I do still however need to get the bike currently dynoed and taken to the 1/4 mile track to see what i can pull with it,not even trying my hardest but just pull up to the line and drive it like if i was on the street. I know the stock bike pulls about mid 13 quarters i cant imagine what mine does.

So for everyone wanting to know what i have done exactly to the bike or motor i should say.

-Trask system with intercooler
-Re-welded all welds (header,exhaust,intercooler)
-Changed out their shitty Napa clamps for some good Band Clamps with nuts and bolts
-Greddy Type R BOV Adjustable and flanged(something they should have done!)
- VRSC injectors 4.81(come with the kit)
-NGR Plugs (colder plugs then stock)
- Earl fittings and kevlar woven hose for turbo drain
-Ported and polished Stock heads with beehive springs 7000rpm limit
-SE551 cams Bolt in was perfect for the turbo and stock pistons
-Reworked Trask maps and SE551 maps from the cams
-stock fuel pump boosted pressure regulator airline

I believe thats it for the motor..

Any more questions or comments just message me..


Other mods to the bike..

-Mustang seat with backrest
-Passenger seat and sissy bar
-Deuce rear rim with 180 Screamin eagle GT502 tire
(stock belt drive as well,besides a small shim behind the stock pully)
-custom drilled belt guard
Had a fishboy gauge delete clamp with i removed in favor of my speedo
-Chopped rear fender ruffly 6" as much as i could and still have passengers
-rear signal mod Turn/stop/brake
-Front Brembo caliper
-shaved under tank wire carrier
-moved ignition key
-stickers
currently-shaved front signals

Screw Loose Dan
21st September 2009, 00:54
GMC - Thanks so much for this post! I'm sure I'll have plenty of questions once I've digested all this.

no intercooler on an air cooled motor is gonna make a disaster. the motor gets hot enough as it is and turbo motors run really hot especially without an intercooler.

Jeffy - Have you run a air cooled motor without an intercooler? I'm sure they make a significant difference. Just wondering how many guys have toasted motors because they aren't intercooled? Trask sells a kit without the intercooler...really the only reason I had thought about it.

Charles:
21st September 2009, 17:21
Any time you run exhaust gases (hot), through a compression system similar to a turbo (in that the compressor wheel is directly linked to the exhaust wheel), you're going to heat up your air intake temps. Coupled to that, you're forcing more air into the cylinder, which also will heat temps up. So, you have 2 additional factors contributing to higher intake temps. As for how that's going to affect an aircooled engine, I wouldn't think it would be productive. As a side note, perhaps meth injection might be a more appealing alternative to a bulky intercooler??

A few questions. What PSI is the turbo pushing? Also, what are the flow limits of the stock injectors? How many CFM does that turbo max out?

I would think someone could put together a kit for pretty cheap. There are a few turbos that run 500 bucks. Make sure your fueling is right (I guess new injectors are needed, but those can be had for cheap), and air temps and flow are correct (via a SERT or some other aftermarket ECM management), and you should be good. Parts alone shouldn't run more than 1500. Granted, you'd need to fabricate somethings (manifold and exhaust)

gmc1952
22nd September 2009, 03:39
Thats my next thing on my list how did you guess. METHANOL injection as well,very easy system to make just need some more time to get what i need to do it. Cooler temps even more which in turn = more power:)

gmc1952
22nd September 2009, 03:45
my turbo is pushing 8lbs which is what they set it for, the turbos limit is 30lbs however which i possibly with adjusting the wastegate on it.
The BOV is also able to hold 30lbs as well which is why i got it how ever i must tell you. You will probably blow the case apart with that much boost and melt the pistons. Plus 8lbs is alot for a daily trust me,even before i switched the cams on my 1200 i could hit 70 fairly fast in 4th gear,for passing if i wanted to.
However my current setup i can get to 70 in third under boost and lift the front end off the ground if i wanted to.

The injectors i am using are 4.81 VRSC injectors stock is 3.89, The limit from what i have heard on the 1130forum.com is they say 180hp for those injectors. So i would say for stock injectors probably about 120hp is maxed out,but i never tryed them with my setup so i dont know for sure maybe someone on here can chime in for this one.

gmc1952
22nd September 2009, 03:53
Plus i run the SERT Pro software if you wanted to know, i had to run a boost line to my fuel pump regulator to boost the pressure when under boost. However if you run a thundermax unit instead and spend the 800 for one the fuel pump mod is not needed according to trask since it lets you play with fuel flow supposedly as well when under boost,which sert does not since it was never ment to be used the way i am using it. I am basically Boosting the fuel pump as well as the motor when i go into Boost.

So in turn 8lbs of boost goes to my boost gauge,8lbs to my motor and 8lbs to my fuel pump regulator.

gmc1952
22nd September 2009, 03:56
Oh and i have seen the Gt2252 turbo sold rebuild for about $200-300.New its like a $800 turbo. And its much more efficent then the Gt17 model which i see alot of buell guys use.

Charles:
22nd September 2009, 05:24
If you run some meth, I don't see why you can't get into 12-13 psi range. Just keep a tight eye on the EGT's.

rabidchimp
10th October 2009, 21:09
Pics or ban!
-Aaron

24inchapes
11th October 2009, 02:16
Ive been contimplating a turbo, but now not really sure...

rottenralph
11th October 2009, 02:58
I have an Aeocharger in the box that I could not get to work with my hsr45 so I get another chance this winter. I think the FI bikes are much easier to make this work.

Charles:
11th October 2009, 03:48
The deal with EFI bikes, you need to get a very tunable ECM reprogrammer. There needs to be almost complete control over the fuel, timing etc to get a turbo to work efficiently on an EFI bike. At least with a carbed bike, you can have more control for a lower pricepoint.

Whats an Aerocharger?

rottenralph
11th October 2009, 04:18
It is a variable vane turbo that builds boost from the ground up. As the throttle opens it closes vanes on the turbo and the boost climbs. The boost is controlles by manifold vacuum or pressure. Everythng works right on my setup accept the carb.. I will try the turbo again in the spring. I would love the 110 hp that comes with the spin of the throttle.

gmc1952
12th October 2009, 05:46
what was the carb doing to not make it work for yea.
We do turbos on carb sandrails all the time, should be the same principal on a bike.
And yes i do believe the EFI bikes are easier to boost since its all computer controlled,not like a carb where if you need more fuel or a higher idle i have to change jets and what not.
More time consuming,when i need more fuel i just up the numbers in the program the bikes running.
Hope you get the system to work this time.

rottenralph
13th October 2009, 00:56
I was having trouble just getting it to run with the Mikuni. I changed the needle to hold the additional bowl pressure and jetted the way I thought it needed to be. Since I never used a mikuni I think it was so far out that it was never going to work. I had my bike dyno tuned and the carb was way out for my application. I suspect I will be able to plug and play this time.

gmc1952
15th November 2009, 08:50
meth system being added in the works!

rabidchimp
15th November 2009, 18:29
Again, pics or ban!
-Aaron

24inchapes
15th November 2009, 21:45
Yeah, this thread is useless without pics. :(

gmc1952
16th November 2009, 03:20
what pics do u want me to add, u tell me and i will post them..

rottenralph
16th November 2009, 03:38
Just curious, why are you using cams with as much overlap as a 551. Everyone I talked to told me to put back in my stockers or get a custom grind from zippers with as little overlap as possible so I don't push the charge out of the exhaust? I would love to get mine running in the spring. I like the turbo I hate the frustration of trying to figure out how to make it work.

gmc1952
16th November 2009, 05:09
"The math and the simulation programs all say to expect more bottom end and mid range with a little less on top."
Taken from NRHS website,which is true it gave me more bottom end and mid range power.

"Running flat out on the slabs then you want the .551's and a great traffic court lawyer"
from jimbos883

Also it was the best over all "BOLT IN CAMS" i had a choice of i did do head work but i wasent going to change the pistons and bottom end just for a better set of cams thats would provide me with a hp or two. Keep in mind this is a street bike not a all the time drag bike.
Are there better cams out there YES do i want to spend the money for them No, i am actually very happy with my .551 cams over the stock. Also my bike is an '08.
All i can say is do your research and choose one thats good for you and what you want out of the bike.

rabidchimp
16th November 2009, 06:14
We want pics of everything you can show us, related to the turbo setup.
-Aaron

rottenralph
16th November 2009, 13:40
I understand the cam choice for a non turbo motor but I was curious what the good folks at trask suggested? Our resident turbo man Sam Dakin of Dakinengineering suggested I get a cam with the least possible overlap and that is a stock set. I don't know the first thing about turbos so I just installed my stock cams and removed my 536's. 0 degrees of overlap for the stock and 53 for the 536 cam. Your turbo setup works and mine does not so maybe I need some 551 cams. I wish I had kept the fuel injection setup I had and mne would probably work.

whittlebeast
16th November 2009, 16:56
There will be no way to get the stock ECU to control a turbo motor. Megasquirt may be the only realistic option.

AW

07xl1200r
16th November 2009, 21:57
ralph thanks for the link, GMC i'm right in the middle of trying to do a turbo on my bike and have a few questions
1. how are your oil lines routed and what sizes(i saw you said the drain was a -8)
2. can you tell me more about the mod you did to the fuel pressure regulator
3. what do you think abotu using an old t25 turbo, and if it wont work do you know if the flange is the same as the GT22
4. do you have a part number for the injectors your using
i'm sure there are a ton more questions i'm missing but i'd really appreciate the help

gmc1952
17th November 2009, 03:23
I understand the cam choice for a non turbo motor but I was curious what the good folks at trask suggested? Our resident turbo man Sam Dakin of Dakinengineering suggested I get a cam with the least possible overlap and that is a stock set. I don't know the first thing about turbos so I just installed my stock cams and removed my 536's. 0 degrees of overlap for the stock and 53 for the 536 cam. Your turbo setup works and mine does not so maybe I need some 551 cams. I wish I had kept the fuel injection setup I had and mne would probably work.

mine worked great with stock cams i ran them for about 2-3,000 miles before i switched i really wanted more bottom end since thats where i use it on the street. So i would use the stock cams and make it work with them, if you like it dont change them if not then change away.Its a waste to change cams now since you dont have a working turbo system to start with to base anything off of,if you know what i mean.

Keep in mind the bike still acts like a normal bike until i hit the boost range.Some days i dont even go into boost if i am just going slow in traffic and what not others i am in the boost all day. I use it mainly to go to and from work which is about a 20 mile trip each way,occasionally on the weekends as well but not so much.

gmc1952
17th November 2009, 03:27
There will be no way to get the stock ECU to control a turbo motor. Megasquirt may be the only realistic option.

AW

I use my stock ecm i was going to use a thundermax unit, which i might go to eventually but i am useing my stock ecu with a Screamin eagle tuner on it,just had to modify the maps i got with the system to work with what i have done to it.

gmc1952
17th November 2009, 04:12
ralph thanks for the link, GMC i'm right in the middle of trying to do a turbo on my bike and have a few questions
1. how are your oil lines routed and what sizes(i saw you said the drain was a -8)
2. can you tell me more about the mod you did to the fuel pressure regulator
3. what do you think abotu using an old t25 turbo, and if it wont work do you know if the flange is the same as the GT22
4. do you have a part number for the injectors your using
i'm sure there are a ton more questions i'm missing but i'd really appreciate the help

OK, here goes nothing,

1) oil lines are very simple just like a big motor: oil line into turbo is "t"ed off the motors stock pressure switch at the bottom front of the motor-one side has the pressure switch on it the other the oil line into the turbo.If you want a pic of this email me and i will get it to you. the drain line is just below the turbo itself i drilled a hole into the cam cover and drained it into it. The kit came with a parker hose with a flammable cover over it since its literally resting on the exhaust. However that did not feel safe to me so i changed it to -8 An fittings and the Parker teflon hose with kevlar exterior, the one that firefighters use.You can literally take the hose and up a torch on it for 5-10mins and it wont get hot or melt it,its that strong besides the fact its a teflon hose which wont go away ever like normal hoses do over time.Its probably about 7" long if that and has swedged fittings on it, so no leaks here,unlike the other hose i had. Also that hose alone cost me like $75 to have made plus the fittings i had to add to the turbo and the cam cover to install it. However no oil leaks or nothing since i have installed it,best $$ i have spent on it..at the time however i was like your shitting me how much did you say my 7" length of hose was :)

2) fuel pressure mod: i pulled the pump assembly out of the tank and drilled the base plate to install push-loc fittings for a very very small hose i believe it was like 1/8" i had to have it specially ordered through my local parker store since they don't carry any in-stock since it was so small.Tapped my fuel pump plate and installed the fittings, hose from under the pump runs into my intake hat on the backside and the one inside the tank runs from the pump plate into the stock fuel pump regulator.Which i had to tap and install another fitting there as well. So Basically what i am doing here with this is when boost comes on and the intake hat is pressurized it also pressurizes my fuel pump to push more fuel when in boost. Now the other way to do this without basically boosting the fuel pump regulator is to install the thundermax unit, which trask says has settings on it to regulate the stock pump into putting out more fuel at boost.

3) The GT25 is the next size up from the one i am using the flanges if i am not mistaken are the same on the exhaust side,however i don't think i would use that big of a turbo unless you had a bigger then stock 1200 motor. Keep in mind the bigger the turbo does not mean more boost it just means more exhaust pressure is needed to get you into the boost,since your motor has to jump start the turbo to begin with. I know the buell guys i have talked to use the Gt17 which is smaller then mine and a bit cheaper and they have had great luck with it, the only difference between the Gt17 and the Gt22 besides the slightly bigger compressor wheel is that mines a little more efficent then the Gt17. Also the exhaust flange on the GT17 is different then the GT25 so if you ever wanted to go bigger you would have to modify the Gt17 or redo your exhaust system to accept the other flange.

4) injectors are stock V-rod injectors:This should be them,the Vrod guys say they are good up until about 150hp or so anymore and you need destoryer injectors for more fuel.

VRSC Stock injectors (27665-01A): 4.81 g/s @ 60 psi (400 kPa) and 5.62 g/s @ 82 psi (565 kPa)(8 degree injector)

by the way here are the destoryer injectors,for those who are interested:

VRSC Destroyer injectors (27791-05): 6.37 g/s @ 60 psi (400 kPa) and 7.45 g/s @ 82 psi (565 kPa) (25 degree injector)

any more info just post it and i will try to respond to it as best i can with what i have done so far.

Oh and dont forget to change the plugs as well to NGK DCPR9E gapped to .034,stock plugs wont cut it anymore with a turbo.

As well as an upgraded clutch is needed, i actually have the stock clutch with just a heavier spring on it instead of the stock one,basically its the one everyone sells with there 9 disk clutch kits,but mines just got the stock 8 with their heavy spring on it and it works great.

gmc1952
17th November 2009, 04:15
Also dont forget the boost gauge.Trask makes a great handle bar unit that is universal for any turbo.,and uses an autometer pressure gauge.

gmc1952
17th November 2009, 04:41
http://rides.webshots.com/album/573433136njZVeV?vhost=rides

here are all the pic of the bike you need any more ask and i will post them..

rabidchimp
17th November 2009, 18:24
Thanks for sharing the pics!
-Aaron

whittlebeast
17th November 2009, 19:27
I would love to see the SERT tune that you are running. Could you email it to me?

07xl1200r
18th November 2009, 00:08
gmc thanks for the reply, i'm going to try the T25 since i already have it, and if it won't work i'll pick up a GT2252 since the flange is the same.
i shoul have to oil lines done tommorrow i hope, that is where i was going to route the drain but i wanted to make sure someone else had done it and didn't have any problems. how are you tuning your bike without putting it on a dyno? just using a wide band AFR gauge? also at what RPM does your boost come on at.

gmc1952
18th November 2009, 02:43
gmc thanks for the reply, i'm going to try the T25 since i already have it, and if it won't work i'll pick up a GT2252 since the flange is the same.
i shoul have to oil lines done tommorrow i hope, that is where i was going to route the drain but i wanted to make sure someone else had done it and didn't have any problems. how are you tuning your bike without putting it on a dyno? just using a wide band AFR gauge? also at what RPM does your boost come on at.

First off make sure the Gt25 is the same flange as the gt22 i believe it is but call a Garrett dealer or turbo rebuilder and make sure.

I have stock O2 sensors and actually i have not dynoed the bike yet to see the true power reading or anything since i made my modifications to it.I do know its alot faster then when i first got the system and boost does come on alot sooner as well.
This is the actual bike that i got the turbo from so before my mods this was the turbos stats on a 1200 stock bike (this bike was dyno tuned,to make the original maps that i use on my current setup)
However i have added a better/adjustable bov valve,fixed the leaky intercooler,added better clamps and hoses for no leaks (oil/air) as well as my cams and head work and fixing the cracked exhaust he had. All this added another pound of pressure to my system. i was originally running it at 8lbs like the article states however now with my mods and fixing the leaks and making it seal better i have gained an extra pound from the system so i run 9lbs all the time. Its a very reliable 9lbs of boost when i want it.
Here is the article:
http://motorcycletestdrive.com/turbosportster122hp.html

Also i have not yet added a Tach so i have no idea what rpm it does come on at, thats actually my next purchase to make from speedway instruments.
All i can tell you about that is i know from a dead stop i can get from 0-70 in 2 gears,without braking a sweat in no time at all. When i get a tach i will post what rpm exactly boost takes over,until then someone tell me :)

07xl1200r
18th November 2009, 17:02
gmc, i looked up the get2252 on garrets website and the flange is the same:smoke
so why did the original guy take the turbo off, he wrote about it like he loved it in the article.

07xl1200r
18th November 2009, 20:06
gmc you would happen to have the part numbers for the fittings you used on the FPR would you? i don't have any parker stores around here and that looks like a much better way to do it instead of 1/8 rubber hose with a clamp

gmc1952
19th November 2009, 02:30
gmc you would happen to have the part numbers for the fittings you used on the FPR would you? i don't have any parker stores around here and that looks like a much better way to do it instead of 1/8 rubber hose with a clamp

the fittings i used was a -8 bulkhead fitting for the cam cover (-8AN on on side and NPT on the other with a nut and two teflon washers) on the turbo it came with a NPT fitting on it so i removed it and used a -8AN 90 degree with NPT on the other end.
Look up Earls fittings online everyone sells them, Jegs ,summit etc.
Every fitting i used as well as the drain hose was Earls
Same for the oil feed line its a stainless braided earls hose with swedged fittings on either end.
Expensive but it lasts!!

07xl1200r
19th November 2009, 02:43
i meant on the Fuel pressure regulator, i can't find any 1/8 inch stuff, only bulkhead fittings i could find local were -4 an stuff. also what thread did you tap the FPR with 1/8th NPT?

gmc1952
19th November 2009, 05:55
yea its a push loc 1/8 fitting,made by parker. You should be able to find them online as well as the hose.
I work near a parker hose store and they dident even carry them i had to special order them.

I looked online for you to help you out some,and so you know what you are looking for.

Here is a link to someone who sells the 1/8"NPT x 1/8" tube push loc fittings you need for the fuel pump,i believe they also sell the airline as well..a little pricey but now you know they exists as well as the airline.

You will need 3 fittings for the fuel pump mod (2 on the plate and 1 on the regulator) and 1 more on the turbo hat , ok thats 4. plus my boost gauge uses another 2, so i got 6 total of those fittings, and probably about 6' or so of airline,ruffly.

http://www.kplinks.com/product.php?productid=117&cat=58&page=1

gmc1952
19th November 2009, 05:56
Post pics of your progress i want to see what you got going on over there....

gmc1952
19th November 2009, 06:02
http://www.holley.com/650008ERL.asp

this is a link to my drain hose i used as well, pricey but well worth it!!

07xl1200r
19th November 2009, 22:39
alright i found a parker store about 30 miles up the road from me so my next day off i'll take a trip up there to order the line and fittings, the problem i have with an AN return line is that i can't find the correct adapter to use AN line on my turbo(it's 14mm inverted flare) i'm going to try 5/8 rubber fuel line and if that melts i'll see what else i can do. My setup is, to say the least, ugly it's the first time i've ever tried to put a turbo on anything so it'll be a lot of learning(even little stuff like the push-lok fittings) the next manifold i make i think i'll buy some mandrel bent pipes and section them together to make a better flowing manifold, but here is a picture of the manifold mocked up in place and a short vid.
edit: i found a site called ANplumbing.com and they have a 14mm to -8 fitting and the ultra-lite 650 hose and so on, thinking about going that route now.

http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu137/justin7803/th_MVI_0849.jpg (http://s641.photobucket.com/albums/uu137/justin7803/?action=view&current=MVI_0849.flv)
http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu137/justin7803/IMG_0844.jpg

gmc1952
20th November 2009, 03:52
http://www.atpturbo.com
has bunches of fittings for turbos i am sure if it existed they would have it

http://cgi.ebay.com/Turbo-Oil-Drain-Flange-8AN-Garrett-GT15-GT17-GT20-GT22_W0QQitemZ280413788718QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Ca r_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4149f6da2e
this is what my turbo drain fitting looks like, i know yours is different,so see what you can come up with, thats the fun part about it especailly when it all works out and it runs like a bat out of hell.

The original setup i had used the 5/8 fuel line and it felt unsafe to me to i changed it since mine rests against the exhaust. However if you do go this route even at first to make it run,use the heat shielding tube material over it. This stuff,to make the hose last and not melt instantly.Just a site i found with a good picture of it.
http://www.mpsracing.com/products/Earls/Flame_Guard.asp

The exhaust looks like a good start,what are your plans for the turbo hat??
Before i bought my system i was also planning on building my own and throwing around the idea of using a VW aircooled turbo hat from CB performance and modifing it to work with my throttle body and turbo piping. Check it out you will see what i mean..
We use them at work all the time and they will hold 15lbs easy and are well build,but you will have to modify them to work.Just figured i would throw the idea out there to get you started...

skillet
20th November 2009, 21:25
I've really been wanting to turbo my 07 xl1200n for awhile now. i have the cash together and was nearly ready to order a Trask.
Well, after reading the folks at RB racing I've put it on hold till I get some good advice. Have any of you read these guys? They seem to know what they're talking about and raise some interesting points. Some brutal, but funny commentary. I spent the better part of an evening researching their site.
In any case, I'm interested to hear what you people have to say regarding RB's views.

07xl1200r
21st November 2009, 00:08
gmc, are you talking about something like part# 7618 on this page?
http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=310

i think that look pretty nice really, i was planing on making a spacer on my HD heavy breather intake(like a 1 inch thick spacer inbetween the base plate and the outside assembly, that i could trill and tap for the boost gauge and Fuel pump mod) what did you do about the breather holes in the heads? i assume it needs some kind of check valve or else you'd end up with boost in the crank case
the spacer i'm talking about would go inbetween the 2 parts in the picture
http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu137/justin7803/IMG_0001_1.jpg

gmc1952
21st November 2009, 03:39
yup those are the hats i was talking about from cb i was originally going to use for my setup ,until like i said i got the one i have now.

The breather bolts area in the heads you have to use "BREATHER BOLTS" like JP cycles sells, if you look through my pics i am sure they are in there someplace with a rubber hose attached so when the engine does breath it breaths out the rubber line to the back area behind the starter. The intake hat i have actually has cutout in it for the bolts to sit in. The bolts are like the ones in your heavy breather kit in the picture except it has a rubber hose attached,and run behind the exhaust system.

The spacer idea could work if done right and would give you an intake gasket mounting surface as well as providing a sturdy intake hat mounting surface with the breather bolts.

if you want i can take a downward picture of it so u can see what i mean about the bolts in my hat.

gmc1952
21st November 2009, 03:43
I've really been wanting to turbo my 07 xl1200n for awhile now. i have the cash together and was nearly ready to order a Trask.
Well, after reading the folks at RB racing I've put it on hold till I get some good advice. Have any of you read these guys? They seem to know what they're talking about and raise some interesting points. Some brutal, but funny commentary. I spent the better part of an evening researching their site.
In any case, I'm interested to hear what you people have to say regarding RB's views.

RB"s site is great info and they are good people who know their stuff for sure i have used their oil sump pumps and rsr pro-440 pump system as well as their exhaust and they make good parts that work and seem to be reliable.
never seen one of their turbo setups in person though, i would like to though, and i would love to see the orca in action.I bet when that thing takes off at salt flats its a site to be seen and heard.

07xl1200r
21st November 2009, 21:59
are the breathers you have the "banjo" style? thats what i'm looking at, but after looking closer it'd prob be just as easy to fab. up something rather than modify the heavy breather.

Al_
3rd April 2010, 23:41
GMC1952,
Thanks for this thread. It has answered many of my questions about turbocharging my Sportster.

Questions:

Is the oil pump capable of handling the additional oil supply to the turbo?

You mentioned that the GT22 was more efficient than the GT17. Due to the displacement and volumetric efficiencies of the engine, will you be able to take full advantage of the incresed flow potential of the GT22?

sonomaaz
13th April 2010, 05:47
well since i have come back to the forums once again i figured i would start with my old post about trask,

I have currently seen the NEW trask turbo setup and have to say they look great, they have fixed the cracking header pipe issue and have shrunk the intercooler(i would say bad but i rather have a cooler motor then looks,maybe its just me).
The rest of the setup is exactly the same and should be upgraded for more reliability and better performance. But i just figured i would add that they are fixing problems with their setups its just very slow.
And like stated before they make a product that works great, and is way overpriced!!!

Screw Loose Dan
13th April 2010, 06:39
Sonomazz - Great to see you back. Why the name change? Thanks for the update.

Turbo Sporty 48
10th January 2012, 03:00
Good turbo info bump