PDA

View Full Version : Ironhead AHHHHHH...not this... (rust in tank)


IronHed
14th October 2009, 16:43
pulled my tins the other day and started stripping them... started on the tank last night and.....yep, you guessed it, rust in the tank! :headbang

appears minimal and I didn't see any rust in the petcock last week when I took it off, but looking inside, I can definitely see it now...this blows...have read a few posts on here for the proper procedure and none of them sound like any fun! weighing my options @ this point...would all the trouble to repair be worth it or should I just buy a new tank?..not made of money, but somethings it pays in the long run to just spend the money...how many of you guys have done the repairs yourselves? I've read that coating them can also lead to flaking and other issues....just looking for some opinions from some of those better versed in the process...

keithb
14th October 2009, 17:23
I've heard good things about the POR-15 coating kit.

sddowdy
14th October 2009, 17:59
Even if you buy a new tank most companys recomend coating the tank anyways. There has been alot of discusions on here about tank coating. Everything I have read says the 3 part Por 15 works well on rusty tanks and Kreem seems to flake off. Here is a link to a HOW TO, for Kreem, I'm assuming the process will be the same for the Por 15 kit.
http://reviews.ebay.com/How-to-use-the-KREEM-Gas-Tank-Sealer-Kit_W0QQugidZ10000000001059206

Ivan RoachCoach
14th October 2009, 18:20
...spring for a new tank.
Not everybody's into the bullshit involved with lining/creaming a gas tank.
That's one of the reasons you see so many Sportster tanks up for sale EVERYWHERE.

When I switched from my stock 2.2 gallon peanut, I picked up a brand-new King Sportster (3.1 gallons) with recessed pop-up cap for under $100 on eGay.

I've NEVER coated a gas tank in my life, for the simple reason that gasoline doesn't stay in the tank for long because I don't let my bike sit around.



__________________
- SPORTSTER -
Kicking Big Twins in the motherf******g NUTS since 1957

CTFS/QCB
Viva Los Bastardos!!!

Robotech
14th October 2009, 18:21
IronHed...look into a product called Evaporust (www.evaporust.com).

It will take that rust out with minimal work. I used it on parts and believe me, it works wonders. I found it at my local Autozone so you may find a retailer that stocks it on their shelves already. The stuff is fantastic! No smell, no fumes, no real mess, it's bio-degradable and non-toxic. They have instructions specifically on how to de-rust a motorcycle tank. I think you plug your holes except the fill hole of course, pour in the product, then sit it down for like an hour. Then you rotate it every hour so that every area inside the tank gets treated.

You can then either recoat the tank (or have a radiator shop do it for you...don't know what they'd charge) or just fill it back up with gas. Like Ivan I don't plan on my bike sitting for long enough for rust to form. :) Then you can use that money you'd have spent on a new tank on something else! :)

(Note, I do not work for this company nor am associated with it in any way. It's just when I find a product that promises the moon then actually delivers I like to spread the news...)

Ivan RoachCoach
14th October 2009, 18:32
...I read some of the text and I'd give it a shot.
The real beauty of it seems to be that it's idiot-proof and uncomplicated, the way everything should be.



__________________
- SPORTSTER -
Kicking Big Twins in the motherf******g NUTS since 1957

CTFS/QCB
Viva Los Bastardos!!!

Gone
14th October 2009, 23:44
this does sound like good stuff, gonna give it a try. and as cool as it sounds to be able to ride enough to not let your bike sit around, alot of us here dont have that luxury. come on up here and try riding in jan, feb, or march. i think u will find that your bike DOES indeed get the chance to sit around for at least a few months. that being said, i too have never used a tank sealer, i found that during the winter hibernation i would fill the tank right to the top. i was married then, now i just park the bike in the house.

bigjnsa
14th October 2009, 23:47
When I did the tank in my Goldwing I used the RedKote stuff after hearing Kreem starts chipping. So far so good!

bustert
15th October 2009, 00:05
tried a tank liner and can say its not all they say. the tank i tried it on can not be found so it was a necessary evil. one of these days, i will have to break out my metal brake and dimension out the old tank and try to duplicate it. this time with heavier metal. in the mean time, its either the mig or brass. the brass is easier to apply with less chance of burn through. got the machine to run it but one day, i have to break down for a tig.
by the way, i have seen fiber glass replica tanks but only in a very limited design like the old peanut style. hmmmmmm!
just got an idea. use the old tank top as a mold and roll my own coffin. then do the botton and glass the two together. is it worth the trouble?????

Robotech
15th October 2009, 00:59
I look forward to seeing what you guys think of it. I used it on my shift linkage and forward control clevites (I think that's what they are called...where the pegs attach). Both were very rusty and I didn't want to take a wire brush to them for fear of tearing up the chrome. I dumped the parts in a bucked of this stuff and an hour later almost all the rust was gone. By two hours they looked almost brand new with just some scratches! I think I gently brushed them with an old toothbrush for about 2 minutes at the hour mark and that wasn't even really necessary.

So let me know if you try it and what you think.

As for riding in the winter up in Detroit...no thanks. I like my 60 degree winters here in So Cal. :)

IronMick
15th October 2009, 04:22
I have had several old rusty tanks fixed up with RedKote. I have always had it done at a local auto radiator shop.

Shadowdog500
15th October 2009, 05:01
I used POR15 and it works great. Evaporust also works great but it leaves a black sludge where the rust was that needs to be washed off. Evaporust is sold pretty cheap at Harbor Freight.

Chris

dave76
15th October 2009, 05:09
I used POR15, it's easy as hell to use. I would coat the inside of any tank today because of the 10% Ethanol added to gasoline. Ethanol absorbs moisture easily, but Ethanol evaporates easily , and it leaves water behind that falls to the bottom of your tank. If you ride your bike I'd say once a week and gas up I'd say your OK, but in the colder areas if you let it sit your gonna have trouble. Thank the government for that one requiring Ethanol, lower fuel milage, evaporates easily, and absorbs moisture. Check out the boating industry and see the load of troubles there having with their fiberglass tanks. haha

southtexas
15th October 2009, 05:15
What causes a tank to rust? Leaving it partially filled for too long? Ths.

Shadowdog500
15th October 2009, 05:59
One time I had a tank rust out on my daily driver Honda CB550 that was garage kept. So I suppose it could happen to any of us.

Hopper
15th October 2009, 06:28
Depends how bad the rust is. If it is nearly through the tin, then recoat or get a new tank.

If it is just a bit of surface rust, put a bung in the petcock hole, put some kerosene in there with a handfull of nuts and bolts and rattle it around for half an hour to break any loose flakes free.
Flush it all out, wash with garden hose and detergent etc or a jetwash, carwash etc and then slosh kerosene around again to stop further rust.

And run a good quality inline fuel filter so you can see if any rust is coming down the line.

That is all I have ever done with old tanks.

IronHed
15th October 2009, 18:18
well, it may not be so bad after all...spoke w/ a couple fellows I know and they recommended a shop in OKC that cleans/lines tanks and apparently that is one of their specialties...and only $80 for the whole process...a lot better than the $150 to $400 a new one is going for...and would have to have a new one coated just the same which is $42.50 from the same guy...feeling a lil better about it now...WHEW!:banana

1976 XL
16th October 2009, 00:48
well, it may not be so bad after all...spoke w/ a couple fellows I know and they recommended a shop in OKC that cleans/lines tanks and apparently that is one of their specialties...and only $80 for the whole process...a lot better than the $150 to $400 a new one is going for...and would have to have a new one coated just the same which is $42.50 from the same guy...feeling a lil better about it now...WHEW!:banana

What's the name of the shop?:shhhh When I'm up there, I try to stop and get parts and pretty's at some of the shops. I go to Freedom Cycles on S.Robinson, and Fort Thunder H-D on I-35 a lot. It don't hurt to know about some new ones though.:smoke

IronHed
16th October 2009, 01:35
What's the name of the shop?:shhhh When I'm up there, I try to stop and get parts and pretty's at some of the shops. I go to Freedom Cycles on S.Robinson, and Fort Thunder H-D on I-35 a lot. It don't hurt to know about some new ones though.:smoke

ACME radiator is the name of the place...ask for lil Tommy...it's actually on S Robinson too...2216 S Robinson...haven't been there yet, but can't be to far away...maybe some affiliation to Freedom?...been to Ft Thunder though, WHEW! they are HELLA expensive...they wanted $385 dollars for Barnett clutch,throttle and idle cables and some 2" risers...bought them online w/shipping for about $165..too rich for my blood...

went and bought some shop goodies today myself...new lift (manual..not a good hydraulic one:( ), another dual halogen light stand and lots of sanding/finishing supplies...thinking about a powdercoat gun now, anyone tried the harbor freight one? I know some of their stuff is crap but wondering how I might fare w/ one and trying to do some powdercoating myself, at least some of the small brackets and such...figure it would be a cheap way to learn about the process and such...been reading up on it quite a bit lately...can't be too hard, I can paint pretty good (@ least by my standards):cheers

bout like painting from what I've read, all in the prep work...

Tin Man 2
16th October 2009, 03:37
A little rust is no big deal ! Look at your petcock, It is designed to always leave a bit of gas in the tank, about 1/2 inch. The fuel is pulled in through a fine mesh screen about 1 and 1/2 Inch above the bottom of the Tank, Rust does not float,it sinks. Even on reserve you are still safe, by design sediment settles at the bottom of the tank. Every spring you might want to clean out your tank on an old bike to remove moisture and dirt that build up on the bottom. This is a good practice in cold climates, rust or not.

1976 XL
16th October 2009, 03:43
ACME radiator is the name of the place...ask for lil Tommy...it's actually on S Robinson too...2216 S Robinson...haven't been there yet, but can't be to far away...maybe some affiliation to Freedom?...been to Ft Thunder though, WHEW! they are HELLA expensive...they wanted $385 dollars for Barnett clutch,throttle and idle cables and some 2" risers...bought them online w/shipping for about $165..too rich for my blood...

went and bought some shop goodies today myself...new lift (manual..not a good hydraulic one:( ), another dual halogen light stand and lots of sanding/finishing supplies...thinking about a powdercoat gun now, anyone tried the harbor freight one? I know some of their stuff is crap but wondering how I might fare w/ one and trying to do some powdercoating myself, at least some of the small brackets and such...figure it would be a cheap way to learn about the process and such...been reading up on it quite a bit lately...can't be too hard, I can paint pretty good (@ least by my standards):cheers
bout like painting from what I've read, all in the prep work...
Yeah, Fort Thunder can get pricey, but if you spend $500 they will give you $100 in store credit. Hell last month me and the wife went up there and got her a new riding jacket. We had saved our change for a while(we had $225). We had $100 in store credit. I had $100 in cash. We bought a $425 jacket. So I was out of pocket $100, and Harley jackets are some of the best, I felt as if I'd made out like a bandit. She wears it or the liner(hoodie) every day. So... do you have an oven for powdercoating? I think it has to be fairly high temps (400 degrees??) for hours. Your not using momma's oven are you?:laugh

IronHed
17th October 2009, 22:25
Yeah, Fort Thunder can get pricey, but if you spend $500 they will give you $100 in store credit. Hell last month me and the wife went up there and got her a new riding jacket. We had saved our change for a while(we had $225). We had $100 in store credit. I had $100 in cash. We bought a $425 jacket. So I was out of pocket $100, and Harley jackets are some of the best, I felt as if I'd made out like a bandit. She wears it or the liner(hoodie) every day. So... do you have an oven for powdercoating? I think it has to be fairly high temps (400 degrees??) for hours. Your not using momma's oven are you?:laugh


certainly don't need any trouble there :wifemad

there is an old electric oven in my dads garage that would be perfect...after reading up, I think I'm gonna get that basic powdercoaters kit...if at least for all the small parts such as trim, screws, bolts, brackets, etc...the kit only costs about $70 and flat black powder is like $5...would spend that alone of a couple of brackets if I farm it out...I'm gonna want to coat quite a bit of stuff too since I my build is a sort of blacked out/flat orange...

definitely open to hints/pointers from those experienced in the process...

1976 XL
18th October 2009, 23:23
certainly don't need any trouble there :wifemad

there is an old electric oven in my dads garage that would be perfect...after reading up, I think I'm gonna get that basic powdercoaters kit...if at least for all the small parts such as trim, screws, bolts, brackets, etc...the kit only costs about $70 and flat black powder is like $5...would spend that alone of a couple of brackets if I farm it out...I'm gonna want to coat quite a bit of stuff too since I my build is a sort of blacked out/flat orange...

definitely open to hints/pointers from those experienced in the process...

Sounds like a good plan. Maybe you could do some small stuff for others and earn enough to pay for itself, or buy a bigger oven, for frames perhaps. Then you'd be set.:clap Good luck with that.

ParrotHead
18th October 2009, 23:51
What causes a tank to rust? Leaving it partially filled for too long? Ths.

Leaving a tank partially filled allows condensation to form inside the tank. Once the water is there and there is oxygen, rust can form.

Filling the tank to the top prevents condensation and eaves little air (oxygen) so rust is less likely to form.

GA_Ironhead
19th October 2009, 00:15
I see ethanol commonly pointed to as the cause of rusty tanks. Ethanol doesn't help matters, due to the solubility of water in it, but I'd like to point out that tanks were rusting long before ethanol was introduced to gasoline.

From the just when you thought it couldn't get worse department: http://www.nytimes.com/2009/03/07/business/energy-environment/07ethanol.html

ParrotHead
19th October 2009, 03:00
Just remnembered they did a write up on cleaning rust from fuel tanks in a magazine I get from the Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club.

The writer of the article used a product called Rusteco. Simply poured the stuff in the tank, filled with water, and let sit for a few days. Here's a link to their site: www.rusteco.com