View Full Version : Ironhead rear hub/wheel binds-common or not?
22nd October 2009, 20:55
I am redoing that 75 rigid and have a couple rear wheels/hubs to try out. The set up on the bike was from JP and the brake does not work because the shoes are too far from the drum so the length of pull is ridiculous.
That's problem one that I would like to figure out.
Problem two is my hub from my 73 basket seems to bind when I tighten it into the rigid axle mounts. Is this a spacing issue within the hub? It does not bind on the brake shoes. I must assume that this is a common problem with hubs as parts wear. Anybody had experience with hubs that bind when you tighten the axle nut?
22nd October 2009, 21:02
If the hub has been put back together with no/ or incorrect bearing spacer it will bind and eventually destroy the wheel bearings, there are shims available to adjust for wear, Cheers, also there should be an adjuster for the shoes to shorten up on the pull as they wear as well
22nd October 2009, 22:17
I'll try to localize the binding my tightening down the hub without the brake cover using a spacer. At least I can determine if it is binding within the hub-bearings and not a brake cover issue. I got the wheel in a basket case 73 I bought
22nd October 2009, 22:40
if it is going to bind on the backing plate, it will show up on the hole where the axle goes through on the inner side. also, when this happens, sometimes the plate will ride on the drum area where the rivets are. you can add a washer to shim the plate out. there is a adjustment on the other side for the hub bearings.
if the drum is stock for the year as well as the actuators, and the throw is too far, check the drum id as it maybe worn out, the max dimension is marked on the drum. also, make sure you are using the correct shoe.
if you get in a bind and can not get the right parts, you can shim out the shoe ends. attach the needed thickness and use counter-sunk tapered screws (lock-tite) to attach them to the shoe (counter-sunk so the actuator can does not ride on screw heads. on the pivot stud, you will have to add a bushing to match the shim size on the actuator end so the arch of the shoe will be maintained (will require opening up the pivot hole on the shoe).
of course, it is better to get the right parts and i highly recommend it but sometimes things just do not happen.
23rd October 2009, 00:26
Yes You had Better space that Hub to the Backing Plate properly or the Backing Plate will rub and grind the spocket rivets!!! Harley sells a very slim spacer to cure this.
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