So I had to return a seat bracket that I bought cause the seat already had one included. Only cost $10 bucks so instead of cash, I just grabbed a Green Light Trigger that was hanging on a display on the parts counter. Cost like $11.

I mounted it to the cross member where the kickstand bolts on. For that type of placement, the unit has heavy double sided tape. It also has a zip tie for mounting to the downtubes. If you mount it underneath, like I did, the zip tie will be facing thw wrong way. However, it is long enough to wrap around and still catch. So I used the tape and the tie. When you go to mount it, you'll get what I am saying.

Anyway, it has been on my bike for a good month now and I am very happy with it. Obviously it only works on induction loop (magnetic) sensors so it is of no help for motion sensors, etc. but it does do what it says it will do. That is, increase your ability to trip magnetic sensor stop lights.

It is not an end all cure all and it does not work all the time. But, if you mount it correctly and follow the instructions on approaching intersections, it will increase your odds of getting a green. I would guesstimate my success rate has increased by a good 50%. I have more success at some lights than others and that is likely attributable to the sensitivity of the sensor.

There is a newer version out now that is supposed to be even better and I'll be watching for it to hit the counters.

All in all, it was a great $11 and I am very happy I bought it. The XL Magazine did a review of the Trigger that is much more detailed than this.

Here's a link to their write up: XL Magazine (http://www.xlsportster.com/aprilmay05/april05cover.htm)

And to the Green Light Trigger site: Green Light Trigger (http://www.greenlightstuff.com/)

You know, for the ones that don't trip for you on the motorcycle, you can call your highways department and tell them the intersection and they will fix the problem. It usually is like you said, the setting for the sensitivity and is adjustable by them :)

Thanks for posting. Allways wondered if those things worked.Now does anyone know if the thighmaster works? ;)

You know, for the ones that don't trip for you on the motorcycle, you can call your highways department and tell them the intersection and they will fix the problem. It usually is like you said, the setting for the sensitivity and is adjustable by them :)

In this town they would just laugh at ya'. Besides, our mayor is too busy running from a homosexual side life scandal to care about such trivial things as citizen concerns. :frownthre

Is that the guy who thought he was chatting up a 17 y.o. boy on a forum but it was a reporter instead?

My neighborhood has a gated entrance and exit. Would this work to open the gate on my way out? I've been stuck there many times and it sucks ass. I'm not sure if the gate is magnetic or weight sensitive.

Is that the guy who thought he was chatting up a 17 y.o. boy on a forum but it was a reporter instead?

Yep, that's our mayor. Of course there's a lot more to the story, like how the owners of said newspaper are embroiled in a city rip off scandal and the mayor was after their backsides. So, voila, sex scandal with the mayor, money scandal dissapears from the news. It's a dog eat dog world man.

JRM, it only works on magnetic sensors. Pressure switches would not be affected.

You know, for the ones that don't trip for you on the motorcycle, you can call your highways department and tell them the intersection and they will fix the problem. It usually is like you said, the setting for the sensitivity and is adjustable by them :)
I was gonna call once, but then I said :censor it. they will give me the ole brush off. :(

A very sage individual taught me a great way to trigger the lights and it works just fine here in Washington State.

When you pull up to the light..put the engine OVER the round or square sensor in the pavement (usually indicated by a cut line filled in by tar or rubber sealant)...hit the starter a couple of blips. Does not ruin the starter as it doesn't engage like on an automobile. The electric "flash" is just enough to trigger the sensor and change the light. Been using it for a couple of years.
NEVER had to wait more than 1.5 minutes for the lights to change.

Mike

It depends on the city as to IF they'll do anything anout it.
In my area, there are more responcive, and will test and fix if you ask(Nicely).

Wile I have not gotten one yet, there is one tip that the street signal guy gave me.
As you come-up on a sensor, pick a side, and place your bike over 1/3rd of one side or the other, The sensor is a round loop type, and the more of the bike you have over the coil, the better it can see it. The center is a dead zone, so if your in the middle of the sensor, it will most likely miss you.
Since I have used this method, I have had far fewer missed signals.
Try it, it's free.

A very sage individual taught me a great way to trigger the lights and it works just fine here in Washington State.

When you pull up to the light..put the engine OVER the round or square sensor in the pavement (usually indicated by a cut line filled in by tar or rubber sealant)...hit the starter a couple of blips. Does not ruin the starter as it doesn't engage like on an automobile. The electric "flash" is just enough to trigger the sensor and change the light. Been using it for a couple of years.
NEVER had to wait more than 1.5 minutes for the lights to change.

I'm not sure I want to hit the start button while idling at a stop light.

What I do is put my front tire over the crack in the pavement and hold the front brake; thereby transfering the vibration of the bike to the pavement. Whether this works is subjective. I feel like it helps. If I get stuck at a red light for too long, I'll run it.

JB

Thanks for posting. Allways wondered if those things worked.Now does anyone know if the thighmaster works? ;)

no that's total bs, the ab cruncher however gave me ab's of STEEL

Gotwa's thread has good info, as well as the link he has in it to the XL Magazine with a very detailed report on it. Course, I'm kinda late in posting this so you may have already looked it up. If not, give it a look. :)

I posted this in another thread also since we seem to have 2 of the same topics going right now so i will paste it here also.

I have 2 on my bike. They seemed to help at certain lights. And now when i go over the bridges and through the ezpass only lane the sensors will pick up my bike and it will work. I used to get stuck in the ezpass only lanes and had to wait for one of the traffic cops to take my ezpass and scan it manually and when i asked 2 different cops at 2 different bridges they told me because the ezpass lane was not sensing my bike. Since i put the two green light triggers on my bike I have not had that problem.

I have this one in the HP model on my bike.

http://www.greenlightstuff.com/trigger.html

My neighborhood has a gated entrance and exit. Would this work to open the gate on my way out? I've been stuck there many times and it sucks ass. I'm not sure if the gate is magnetic or weight sensitive.

They are all magnetic (actual inductive). I use to install these things in parking lot entrances. At any rate. The metal passing through the field created by the loop, causes a change in inductance in the loop which is sensed by the electronics. The sensitivity can be changed so that less metal is sensed. The Green Light Trigger is nothing more than a BAR Magnet that will induce a bigger change in the loops field. It sometimes works, sometimes not. I put one on my 50CC scooter that is much lighter than my motorcycle, and it helps, but only if I ride and stop on top of the wire loop.

On my Sportster, I haven't added this magnet. If I ride and stop my Sportster on top of the wire, it senses me. Usually these loops are easy to see, as they almost always put them in after the fact and the pavement has saw cuts in it. Usually in a box like shape in the lane. Try setting your bike right on top of one of the length wise saw cuts. It should trip the sensor.