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drhach
13th March 2010, 01:07
I am trying to remove and replace the front disk on my bike. I assume the allen heads are loctited in. I can't get those mothers loose to save my soul. I just keep bending allen wrenches. Externally, everything looks pretty clean, so I don't think it's corrosion. All I can figure is that someone loctited them in using the red stuff. They are all stuck big time. I tried a heat gun but maybe I didn'y let it get hot enough. Any thoughts?

malingerer
13th March 2010, 01:14
Loose the allen wrenches.Use hex head sockets with a breaker bar that should work

floorit
13th March 2010, 01:14
There are two cures for loctite, heat, and torque. Use GOOD quality allen wrenches. Try an impact driver.

ocezam
13th March 2010, 01:28
Heat. They'll come right off.

72Iron
13th March 2010, 01:32
Lots of heat, and get some allen sockets as mention before.

Folkie
13th March 2010, 01:57
Did anyone mention heat?

72 Ironhead XLH
13th March 2010, 01:57
Ox/Acy if red was used

LOOSEE THE 79 AMF
13th March 2010, 03:57
my indy tryed to get mine off a year ago, he said thats normal. soak the crap out of it with pb blaster for a day or 2, then use a breaker driver

LuxBlue
13th March 2010, 04:15
Might need to get over 400 degrees F. Here's a link:

http://www.ehow.com/how_5201363_remove-loctite-bolts.html

IronMick
13th March 2010, 04:40
Use an Allen socket with an impact driver, the kind you hit with a hammar [which every shop should have]; or use an air or electric impact.

old guy with kmodel
13th March 2010, 04:55
From my days as a millwright, heat+ touch a bar of beeswax to it. Beeswax kills red or green locktite.

jharback
13th March 2010, 07:25
IronMick has the answer. A good impact driver is a must have.

Hopper
13th March 2010, 09:06
Propane torch.
I would not put an oxy near aluminum unless you got a good experienced hand with that torch. Soooo easy to melt aluminum with oxy.

IronHead78
13th March 2010, 10:07
From my days as a millwright, heat+ touch a bar of beeswax to it. Beeswax kills red or green locktite.

Interesting, I'll have remember that one.

fdny37
13th March 2010, 15:46
I have an original front wheel off of a '79 with dual rotors and when I tried to remove them they were as tight as you describe. What I'm saying is that those discs were put on tight from the factory and Mick is right you're going to need an impact driver just to get them to move a little.

ocezam
13th March 2010, 15:51
From my days as a millwright, heat+ touch a bar of beeswax to it. Beeswax kills red or green locktite.

Interesting, I'll have remember that one.

That is interesting. Never heard of that.

HAVE SOME REP!

Murdog1968
13th March 2010, 17:27
It is a combo of corrosion and the fit of the taper on the bolts...use heat.

Loner
13th March 2010, 17:54
this is a trick I picked up from an old wrench I know
use a torch but not on the bike, find a fireproof spot away from the bike, lay your allen wrecnh on it or the ground and heat the tool wear heatproof gloves once you got the wrench hot use a pair of vice grips and stick the wrench in the head of the bolt the heat will transfer to the bolt and take care of the loctite don't heat too much or the wrench will expand
He also use to stick the allen wrench into the bolt and then heat the wrench it would transfer the heat to the bolt and the wrench would have a snug fit, once he got it out you have to let it cool to get the old bolt off new bolts might be a good idea.

merc
13th March 2010, 18:25
why go thru all that heating the allen wrench and using gloves and vise grips....etc?
a propane torch directly to the bolt head provides far more heat than all that crap.
The only way to get out a bolt that is stuck is wjat was already suggested.
Heat it. then use an impact wrench. Eventually it will come out.


if that don't work get a BFH...then an air chisel hack saw ..and new calibers. just kiddin'

Loner
13th March 2010, 18:36
It was a suggestion,
It is a technique that I know that works for melting loctite.
It is hard to apply heat to a small specific bolt without the chance of damaging forks or other parts. and heat is the one thing required for red loctite.
I only use brute force as a last resort then that is what my electric impact gun is for.
I guess he could always grind the heads off.
And I have dealt with my share of red loctite.

darett
13th March 2010, 18:38
I use a heat gun, cuz I get nervous with an open flame around the brake lines.

drhach
13th March 2010, 22:40
So, then, heat? Considering that it was 20 degrees out last I tried this, It may have dissipatred too fast. Also, I'll invest in a better allen socket. The angled wrenches just twist in to a mangled mess. I wish I had an impact gun. Actually I dod, just don't have an air compressor to plug it in to. I'll heat the hell out of it and see what that gets me.

Folkie
13th March 2010, 23:09
I'vr got the sort of impact wrench that you hit with a hammer. Seems to work pretty well.

GA_Ironhead
13th March 2010, 23:46
A hand impact wrench is a wonderful thing. Corollary: "At some point, you will need a bigger hammer."

Folkie
14th March 2010, 00:01
Thus that well know proverb: "if at first you don't suceed, hit it with a bigger hammer!"

SpartanDen
14th March 2010, 00:31
When I raced dirt bikes, we always had an impact driver to remove the case bolts. Those damn phillips head screws they used to use. At least the Husky's had allens!!
My point is that old impact driver is still a tool you should have in your tool box. They will come in handy. And get some extra bits for the driver.... you will break them from time to time.
And a bit of patience!

drhach
16th March 2010, 22:52
Well, I applied way more heat than I thought was necessary, then I applied a little more. Tha damned things came off easy peasy. I got the new rotor on and I just need to go for a test ride. I hope this fixes it. It's coming along. I rode it twice last weekend and no parts fell off. A new record.

Loner
16th March 2010, 23:02
Good for you.
BTW I forgot to mention I too have an impact driver I have used one for years.
But your problem was dealing with a stuck fastner and red loctite or supposedly that is why most of said to use heat.
I'm not comfortable using open flame on my bikr unless necessary I have a small butanre torch if need be, like you said it don't take much,
I still use the "heat the wrench method" it seems to work for me, no matter what these others that bash me for it say it is not thier bike I'm working on.

Anaxios
16th March 2010, 23:17
So when you removed finally removed the bolts, could you tell what the problem was? Why were they so tight? Was it due to red loctite, blue loctite, corrosion, maybe just overtorked, or unknown? Just nice to know the source of any problem, so it doesn't get repeated. Thanks.

drhach
17th March 2010, 05:14
It was some sort of thread locking compound. I'm not sure what brand or type exactly. Definitely not red/green/blue loctite. It was actually white. Factory blend? I don't know. They came loose with only a little effort after getting them good and hot with a heat gun.

Folkie
17th March 2010, 10:30
It was some sort of thread locking compound. I'm not sure what brand or type exactly. Definitely not red/green/blue loctite. It was actually white.
Red and blue Loctitie turn white when they 'go off'. Probably green too, don't know about that one.

rivethog
17th March 2010, 15:38
It is hard to apply heat to a small specific bolt without the chance of damaging forks or other parts.
I use a heat gun, cuz I get nervous with an open flame around the brake lines.

If you're removing/replacing a rotor or sprocket, WHY are you trying to loosen the bolts/screws with the wheel still on the bike? It's gotta come off anyways.

drhach
17th March 2010, 23:25
Red and blue Loctitie turn white when they 'go off'. Probably green too, don't know about that one.

I did not know that. Well, there's my "something new" for the day. Do you mean "go off" by age or by application of heat?

Folkie
18th March 2010, 00:34
I mean 'go off' as in 'set' or 'dry'.

fatty883
18th March 2010, 00:57
Crazy glue??? Make it work real good...