Greetings!
Back on a bike after 30 years. Safety course all booked up and just started venturing on the road cautiously.
My question is: What is the safe position for right hand? I noticed during my first ride I grip throttle full hand and seem to be clunky to then transition to get in braking position.
Is there a preferred safe form for this hand position? Different positions for varying riding circumstances? Personal preferances?
Want to take Safety course ASAP but need this info in the interim.
Thanks in advance for any input!
S/F
T.G.

Keep your wrist at LEAST level with the throttle grip....no higher....wrist "low on the throttle" is what is taught...

If you hit a bump, lose your balance, etc, you don't want a fistful of HP getting away from you...you can always reach up and get more...I had this shown to me in MSF, and I hit a bump yesterday that could have been disasterous had I not had my wrist so low.....I did goose the gas accidentally with the bump, but it was minor.....

Let me know if any of this doesn't make sense to you....

Ride safe, and GET THAT COURSE!!! :)

I know MSF course stresses holding throttle grip with a downward bend in the wrist. Problem for some folks seems to be position of brake lever. They actually gas the throttle when reaching for the brake lever.

T.G.

When I took the MSF course last year, they said that your wrist should be slightly down. To find this position, take a small straight edge (such as a CD case, book, etc.) and lay it across your forearm and the back of your hand. You should be able to see light between the edge and your wrist.

The thinking is that when you reach for the brake, you will automatically roll off the throttle with the forward motion of your hand. This works very well, at least for me. Hope this helps.

I am so green it all helps!
As I have been riding the past three days I seem to be getting a little less clunky with the reaching for the brake. Initially I was trying to keep a few fingers on the brake being nervous, now it's easier to transition from hand wrapped on throttle to reaching for the brake.
Don't wanna get locked into bad habits right off the bat! :tour Unsure of best practices.

Now same thing with rear footbrake, was riding with toes positioned for quick stop and ankle was very uncomfortable. Now riding with foot on the peg and kinda left tap that foot to the pedal. seems to be working fine and much more comfortable. Hoping this is correct form?
S/F
T.G.

It's great having an opportunity to bounce these issues off Y'all! :D

I am so green it all helps!
As I have been riding the past three days I seem to be getting a little less clunky with the reaching for the brake. Initially I was trying to keep a few fingers on the brake being nervous, now it's easier to transition from hand wrapped on throttle to reaching for the brake.
Don't wanna get locked into bad habits right off the bat! :tour Unsure of best practices.

Now same thing with rear footbrake, was riding with toes positioned for quick stop and ankle was very uncomfortable. Now riding with foot on the peg and kinda left tap that foot to the pedal. seems to be working fine and much more comfortable. Hoping this is correct form?
S/F
T.G.

It's great having an opportunity to bounce these issues off Y'all! :D

Be very careful with the use of your rear brake.....

Locking your rear wheel, and then letting go will result in a high-side (you, getting thrown off, face first, with the bike closely behind)

Remember that 70% of your braking power is in the front....30% in the back....the inertia involved throws the weight to the front tire....( that's why) Use your front brake as much as possible, and leave the back brake to "extra" braking, and slow speed control...

Get signed up for an MSF course ASAP....you'll be SO GLAD you did...I can't express it enough....

Not only hand position but lever position is important. Alot of bikes I've ridden have had the levers too high for my taste. I almost always adjust the levers down a little so when they are pulled in, your wrists are straight. On a dirt bike, they would be lower still, allowing for the fact that you are standing alot of the time. Shift and brake levers aren't excluded from my adjustment either. I usually adjust my shifter so it's just at my toe in the relaxed riding position, and the brake is at the sole of my boot. It makes riding a very relaxed affair for me and emergency activation of the controls are never fumbled. What worked for the last owner of the bike, or the dealer's assembler is rarely ever right for you. Take the time to experiment with the control positions and just RIDE as much as you can. Listen to fellow EXPERIENCED riders. When you can ride smoothly, and without it wearing you out, you've got the adjustments and technique nailed.

You're doing better by taking your hands off the levers. DO NOT keep your fingers on the brake or clutch like you would on a dirt bike. Don't cover the rear brake either.

The best way to give yourself some extra time in case of an emergency, is to keep 2-3 seconds between you and the car in front of you. That will give you enough time to move your fingers or toes three inches.

Like Chuck said stay away from that rear brake until you get used to stopping with just the front brake. Your front brake will always be your primary brake.


One thing that no ones mentioned yet that the course teaches you is to steer with your nose. Always use your nose for steering. Okay I really am being serious... just don't use your nose like you're imagining right now, keep it off the grips.

Your bike will almost always go where you are pointing your nose. If you are doing a U turn and point your nose at the pavement, you will probably fall over; if you point toward the shoulder, you will probably turn wide; if you are pointing your nose were you want to go after the U turn you will probably make the turn.

At higher speeds your nose will help you also. If you are going toward a ditch and you stare at the ditch you are going to go into the ditch. If instead you turn your nose and look at where you'd like to be, chances are much better you will stay on the road.... This last one I can vouche for from practical experience. I went into a ditch broke my bike and my wrist last week, because I was daydreaming and forgot to stop staring at the ditch :cry1

Gazza

Did not realize the components could be adjusted for my particulars. The rear brake pedal, in particular would be a much better setup if adjustable to simply toe foward on to it from the peg. At the moment it is a little high and causes me to angle that foot outward riding and have to do a high left semi circle to activate. It would be alot easier if it were lined up to simply press down foward from a relaxed position on the peg! The levers could also be lined up a little better too...

Is this something simple I can do? I have a general mechanical background as maintenance mechanic, refrigeration mechanic, Brakes, starters etc. on cars.

I do not yet have the service manual, will see if the dealer has it this week. Is this type info in the service manual? Or is this something I should address during the 1000 mile checkup?

This makes perfect sense! Being informed of this now makes me wonder why the dealer would not have fitted the bike to me upon delivery. :rolleyes:

Using the front brake alone most of the time, sofar. Downshifting generally while easing on the lever for brakelights to activate.


After reading some other posts I am thinking maybe I should forego the dealer checkup, get the manual and Amsoil everything myself as well.

Gary, hope you heal up fast buddy!
Thanks everyone for your most valuable input!

S/F
T.G. ;)

On most of my bikes I've been able to simply index the pedal on the splines. I realize some are keyed and won't go on in another position. In that case, you can sometimes adjust the up-stop to a lower pedal height, then re-adjust the linkage, and the light switch. All my bikes have had cable or rod actuated drum rear brakes, so I don't know if you can acheive the same end result with rear disc brakes without looking at your setup. These adjustments I'm mentioning are what I'VE done to my bikes in the past to make them more comfortable to ME. Because that's the setup I learned on thirty five years ago and anything else seems awkward. I don't usually need to mess with the shifter or rear brake, but I will move the levers to suit me almost immediately upon getting a new bike. I want to be able to grab that front brake and NOT open the throttle at the same time, (unless I want to), and be able to comfortably hold that clutch over and over in traffic without fatigue, so I'm not tempted to get lazy and take it out of gear at a stoplight only to get a chrysler enema!

.... This last one I can vouche for from practical experience. I went into a ditch broke my bike and my wrist last week, because I was daydreaming and forgot to stop staring at the ditch :cry1

Gazza

Sorry man --- hope you're up at it again soon (and your bike too)...

You're doing better by taking your hands off the levers. DO NOT keep your fingers on the brake or clutch like you would on a dirt bike. Don't cover the rear brake either.

The best way to give yourself some extra time in case of an emergency, is to keep 2-3 seconds between you and the car in front of you. That will give you enough time to move your fingers or toes three inches.

Like Chuck said stay away from that rear brake until you get used to stopping with just the front brake. Your front brake will always be your primary brake.


One thing that no ones mentioned yet that the course teaches you is to steer with your nose. Always use your nose for steering. Okay I really am being serious... just don't use your nose like you're imagining right now, keep it off the grips.

Your bike will almost always go where you are pointing your nose. If you are doing a U turn and point your nose at the pavement, you will probably fall over; if you point toward the shoulder, you will probably turn wide; if you are pointing your nose were you want to go after the U turn you will probably make the turn.

At higher speeds your nose will help you also. If you are going toward a ditch and you stare at the ditch you are going to go into the ditch. If instead you turn your nose and look at where you'd like to be, chances are much better you will stay on the road.... This last one I can vouche for from practical experience. I went into a ditch broke my bike and my wrist last week, because I was daydreaming and forgot to stop staring at the ditch :cry1

Gazza


Gazza,
Your point of view is correct, but let me just add that where
you turn your head and look, whether it be up and looking
foward your bike will go in that direction. If you are pointing
your head down and looking at the ditch your bike will most likley
end up there. If you are looking 2-3 seconds up the road your bike will
head in that direction.
Point your head and the bike will follow. If you are looking down
you will go down, if looking foward you will keep going foward.

Uh oh... Kayh's dancing girl has some competition... I like that one Xllent01!

Thanks for stressing the look to go theory, I think that is one of the best things I learned at MSF. It has never failed me, except when I forget to do it ;) To bad MSF can't give us all a fool proof memory.

Gazza

I keep looking at the Babe next door, hoping to go there..........How long does this take?

I almost always "cover" the brake and clutch when in traffic. Like Gary said, it is from years of dirt bike riding. But, I actually don't cover them as I do not place my fingers around the levers. I simply leave them resting atop them. This position also allows for excellent counter-steering.

When I'm out on the road or away from downtown stuff, then I generally use a full grip.

I almost always "cover" the brake and clutch when in traffic. Like Gary said, it is from years of dirt bike riding. But, I actually don't cover them as I do not place my fingers around the levers. I simply leave them resting atop them. This position also allows for excellent counter-steering.

When I'm out on the road or away from downtown stuff, then I generally use a full grip.

Generally a good idea too bad not everyone does the same practice.

That split second you are daydreaming about the girl next door and
someone pulls out in front of you. Bam!!!!! covering the brakes could
of saved you from eating the side of someone's car.

Ride cautious like people are out to get you and you ride forever!!!!!!!

How didja know I daydream about the girl next door? :p
Am I that obvious???? Must be, 'cus the wife also knows when I'm even starting to turn my head! :clap :laugh :smoke :yikes
HAHAHAHA!
S/F
T.G.

the book from the MSF course says to apply the front and rear brakes fully without locking either wheel. It says to apply both brakes at the same time. and to keep your body centered and heads up looking well ahead.

the book from the MSF course says to apply the front and rear brakes fully without locking either wheel. It says to apply both brakes at the same time. and to keep your body centered and heads up looking well ahead.

Dichotomous, at best...

While you are correct, technically, most folks are inclined to go for the rear brake first, just as a matter of physiological habit...

To defeat that, I've taught myself to use the rear as a "secondary" brake of sorts.....by this, I mean that I NEVER use the rear brake FIRST, except in low speed manuevers...

YMMV

i guess it's because i took the class i have the tendency to hit both at the same time but i always use the front more than the back. while using the front i push down on the back until i feel resistance and if i need more braking than what the front is giving me i will brake with the rear a little more.

i almost high sided once when i had my fowards on the bike because my seat is kinda slippery and i have a tendency to slide a little bit foward when i brake so with the fowards, from putting pressure on the brake peddle then from sliding foward on the seat i ended up locking up the rear and it went out about 45 degrees and i let it go and the bike straightened itself out really fast but i was able to hold on to it. didn't do that every time just on the hard stops like that one when someone slammed on the brakes infront of me and i had to stop shortly. but i have mids on my bike (thanks again to willprevale for the mids) now and to me i get a much better feel of the rear brake and also better handling on the bike.

I knew there was a reason I liked mids!