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way fast whitey
2nd June 2010, 04:40
so i just finished up my engine build, everything went fine during the heat break ins. now it was time to take it for a test ride! well so i thought. im having major issues with the twin tec 1005s ex nosecone ignition. the timing is dead on perfect and the bike starts right up but after about 5 minuets of riding the bike will backfire and die!!! at first i thought it was a fuel problem but its getting plenty of fuel. my bike doesnt have the VOES module and the instructions that came with the new ignition said if the VOES wasnt present to just ground the VOES wire... my question is what would cause the bike to run just fine for five minuets or so and just suddenly die? i was told to change the coil for a new one but i always thought coils were the kind of thing that they work or the dont work. anyone else had this problem? any insight will help. thanks , whitey

Rico 05R
2nd June 2010, 05:05
Coils on their last legs have been known to quit after getting warmed up. Not saying that's the issue you're having but it is a possibility.

way fast whitey
2nd June 2010, 05:08
the coil thats on it now is a dual fire screaming eagle coil with about 1500 miles on it.

way fast whitey
2nd June 2010, 05:11
and it worked just fine before the build up... what else could cause these symptoms?

rocketmangb
2nd June 2010, 05:52
u have a crank sensor ?

94Sporty
2nd June 2010, 06:34
Having had a coil go bad on me, I know they can quit working when they get hot. That is actually when they generally fail. When they cool down they will work again until they get hot and again quit. When it happened to me, the bike just quit running, no backfiring. The ignition module also can fail when hot causing your symptoms, although with only 5 minutes of riding and as stout as the twin tech is, I find that unusual. If somebody has the download cable that you can borrow, you can see how hot the module is getting. I would probably start with the coil since it is a common problem and cheaper then a new ignition module. Something else to consider is the Bank Angle sensor if you have one. I don't know much about them, someone with more experience will have to chime in on those. As far as the VOES causing the problem, I have run mine disconnected without any problems. However, the instructions for my twin tech said to tape up the VOES if you are not using it, not ground it. If you ground it, you are running in the more advance curve all the time and may have problems with detonation when you get on it.

rwise
2nd June 2010, 12:10
NEW does not mean good, just saying,,

way fast whitey
2nd June 2010, 12:20
Having had a coil go bad on me, I know they can quit working when they get hot. That is actually when they generally fail. When they cool down they will work again until they get hot and again quit. When it happened to me, the bike just quit running, no backfiring. The ignition module also can fail when hot causing your symptoms, although with only 5 minutes of riding and as stout as the twin tech is, I find that unusual. If somebody has the download cable that you can borrow, you can see how hot the module is getting. I would probably start with the coil since it is a common problem and cheaper then a new ignition module. Something else to consider is the Bank Angle sensor if you have one. I don't know much about them, someone with more experience will have to chime in on those. As far as the VOES causing the problem, I have run mine disconnected without any problems. However, the instructions for my twin tech said to tape up the VOES if you are not using it, not ground it. If you ground it, you are running in the more advance curve all the time and may have problems with detonation when you get on it.

the directions with my twin tec said to ground the voes wire if no voes is present! the only wires it said to tape up were the tach and the single fire wire if not in use. as far as the bank angle sensor goes, if the bank angle sensor was bad the bike wouldnt start at all.

way fast whitey
2nd June 2010, 13:41
i just spoke with daytona twin tec and they said to only ground the voes wire when timing the ignition. then afterwords disconect the wire if the bike doesnt have a voes... needless to say the tec support guy is a prick and didnt seem to be to helpful.

Spadesluck
3rd June 2010, 05:18
i just spoke with daytona twin tec and they said to only ground the voes wire when timing the ignition. then afterwords disconect the wire if the bike doesnt have a voes... needless to say the tec support guy is a prick and didnt seem to be to helpful.

Try asking Dan at NRHS, he has some experiance with the TwinTec. I had some questions for them as well and did not get the greatest help either. I have a nosecone on mine as well, but I am running a voes.

WI_duker
13th October 2015, 21:01
Daytona Twin Tec is garbage.
I had a new one last year that died in 8 miles
The replacement lasted a year, and died due to heat related issues.
They are only rated to 220 degrees. Whats the operating temperature of a sportster?

IXL2Relax
14th October 2015, 02:05
If the problem is heat related - a hair dryer is your tool ---- let the bike fully cool down - start it up - blow the hair dryer onto the coil - if it fails with heat, you'll see it very quickly...

Same deal with the ignition module... cool the bike down, start it up, hit it with the hair dryer...

Does the bike restart after dying?

Are you certain the fuel is not the issue? - Did you try spraying a little starting fluid in the carb when it died?

....~\
__o~~o__
IXL2Relax
>>>> Build & Ride Reports Are Here <<<< (http://thecyberzoo.com/kt-ridereports.html)

WI_duker
14th October 2015, 02:20
If the problem is heat related - a hair dryer is your tool ---- let the bike fully cool down - start it up - blow the hair dryer onto the coil - if it fails with heat, you'll see it very quickly...

Same deal with the ignition module... cool the bike down, start it up, hit it with the hair dryer...

Does the bike restart after dying?

Are you certain the fuel is not the issue? - Did you try spraying a little starting fluid in the carb when it died?

....~\
__o~~o__
IXL2Relax
>>>> Build & Ride Reports Are Here <<<< (http://thecyberzoo.com/kt-ridereports.html)
I did it the opposite way. I ran the bike with the nosecone cover off.
When it started to die I turned a high velocity fan on the nosecone and it kept running.
There is also a raised spot about a dime in diameter between the dials Twin Tec confirmed this means it died from overheating.

Twin Tec sells their nose cone ignitions for sportsters. They also state (you have to look for it) their units are rated to 220 degrees. What is the normal operating range of a sportster?

They informed me my best option was to get an external ignition. Which to me would be get another wiring harness and mechanical nose cone pick up.

Screw Twin Tec.

WI_duker
18th October 2015, 02:35
iczYI24P-oQ

WI_duker
24th October 2015, 23:32
i just spoke with daytona twin tec and they said to only ground the voes wire when timing the ignition. then afterwords disconect the wire if the bike doesnt have a voes... needless to say the tec support guy is a prick and didnt seem to be to helpful.

In 5 years nothing has changed

rejeanprimeau
25th October 2015, 00:37
In 5 years nothing has changed

Actualy Chris Shroeder was killed by his son. The kid might have got tired to be ignore by his dad.

WI_duker
25th October 2015, 01:11
Actualy Chris Shroeder was killed by his son. The kid might have got tired to be ignore by his dad.

That's terrible. Really.
I just read it.

WI_duker
1st November 2015, 12:06
http://s7.postimg.org/6m5c037az/twincrap.jpg

Twin Crap
Made of plastic in Mexico

scooby
1st November 2015, 12:20
Purple/white to vows or taped off, is what I see in the wiring diagram?
http://www.daytona-twintec.com/download/Model_1005_EX_Instructions.pdf