prplhays
4th July 2005, 00:55
Got a base line Dyno done on Saturday and here are the results. Everything at this point is still stock on the motor.
My understanding is this Eddy Current Steady State Dyno gives true rear wheel HP and it will usually be a slightly lower number than a Sweep Style Inertia Dyno.
Looks like I'm running around 42RWHP and a little over 46ft/lbs at 5000 RPM.
Hope to improve on those numbers after putting on Cycle Shack slip-ons and Ness Big Sucker that I recieved last week.
This Dyno had a four gas analyzer as opposed to the traditional O2 AF ratio sensor. With this type set up the magic number is ~5.0 as opposed to 13-13.4.
I'm running lean on the rear cylinder all the way up to ~4700rpm and the front cylinder is running rich down low and the too lean from 3400-4700rpm.
I had previously disassembled my carb and so I know I currently have a stock 42 idle jet and a stock 175 high speed jet.
When I bought my new intake and exhaust I also bought an assortment of jets (44, 45, 170, 180, 185 and 190), but no new needle. Looks like I'm going to need a needle, but I'm not crazy about spending $90 for a DynoJet kit just to get a needle. Anyone have any suggestions on that? Can a stock needle be shimmed?
The guys at the AF1, where I got the Dyno done, suggested that after I put on the new intake and exhaust, that I leave the original idle jet in and put in the biggest high speed jet I bought, before I bring it back in for another Dyno run. They are also saying I'll probably need a different needle. I however, after reading everything on this site, am tempted to put in the 45 and the 185 before I take it back in. Even if this works out, as I've discussed, I may also need a new needle.
I would greatly appreciate any suggestions.
Thanks,
My understanding is this Eddy Current Steady State Dyno gives true rear wheel HP and it will usually be a slightly lower number than a Sweep Style Inertia Dyno.
Looks like I'm running around 42RWHP and a little over 46ft/lbs at 5000 RPM.
Hope to improve on those numbers after putting on Cycle Shack slip-ons and Ness Big Sucker that I recieved last week.
This Dyno had a four gas analyzer as opposed to the traditional O2 AF ratio sensor. With this type set up the magic number is ~5.0 as opposed to 13-13.4.
I'm running lean on the rear cylinder all the way up to ~4700rpm and the front cylinder is running rich down low and the too lean from 3400-4700rpm.
I had previously disassembled my carb and so I know I currently have a stock 42 idle jet and a stock 175 high speed jet.
When I bought my new intake and exhaust I also bought an assortment of jets (44, 45, 170, 180, 185 and 190), but no new needle. Looks like I'm going to need a needle, but I'm not crazy about spending $90 for a DynoJet kit just to get a needle. Anyone have any suggestions on that? Can a stock needle be shimmed?
The guys at the AF1, where I got the Dyno done, suggested that after I put on the new intake and exhaust, that I leave the original idle jet in and put in the biggest high speed jet I bought, before I bring it back in for another Dyno run. They are also saying I'll probably need a different needle. I however, after reading everything on this site, am tempted to put in the 45 and the 185 before I take it back in. Even if this works out, as I've discussed, I may also need a new needle.
I would greatly appreciate any suggestions.
Thanks,