New engine oil change? When?

[JDHpiano]

I've totally rebuilt the engine,,, TOTALLY rebuilt.
For the proper brake-in period when should I change the oil out to fresh?
The first 3-4 mile on it I've been getting the bugs out like idle, jetting, and everything seems to be going very good. So I changed the oil early with 20-50. Now the engine/bike has 62 miles on it. I've been through all gears,,, up and down for good splash to the cylinders. I've kept the RPMs down and not over done it.
The question is when is a good time to consider it ready or broke in enough to change the oil to ensure proper break-in?

[cowboy770]

I would do 500miles. Change the oil and crank it up!!

[IronMick]

I change mine at 100 miles, 500 miles, 1000 miles. Then revert to my regular routine.

There is a good thread on engine break-in in the Stickys, accessed thru the last of the red posts neat the top.

break in period
http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/showthread.php?t=302136

[RGT]

what oil did you use for the initial start up?

[cowboy770]

HD oil for the break in, then back to Amsoil

[Hopper]

I like 20/50 for the first few hundred miles. Gets into those tight clearances until things loosen up. Then straight 50 HD mineral oil when things loosen up to normal.

[ezmerf]

If you don't have magnetic drain plug I think I'd invest in one of those.

[JDHpiano]

what oil did you use for the initial start up?

20/50 I hope to get to a straight weight finally. It used to run 70W

[JDHpiano]

If you don't have magnetic drain plug I think I'd invest in one of those.

No I do not have a magnetic plug. I had to re-tap the engine housing and went to a larger hole/thread. I'm thinking of putting one on the bottom of the lunch box oil tank. I don't know what the thread size is there.

[ironhead red]

Do not go back to 70w...EVER!!! Or you will be prematurely rebuilding the entire engine again.

Ironhead Red

[Pigthang]

Do not go back to 70w...EVER!!! Or you will be prematurely rebuilding the entire engine again.

Ironhead Red

What about in hot areas like south florida? On a normal basis when i check my engine oil while its hot it looks almost like water and its 60w

[ezmerf]

I ran 70w GTX for 17 yrs in Tx.

[ironhead red]

When a 70w oil gets up to proper operating temp, it acts like it's suppose to...a 70w oil. I know when you pour any room temperature oil from a container it looks like molasses, but thats not what you should go by, you should go by the weight at proper operating temp, reguardless of how it "looks" when hot. A straight 50w or a multi viscosity oil like 20w-60 is all any of us will need. Any more viscosity than that will not want to flow freely throughout all of the oil passages, especially if you ride somewhere for 10 min. and shut off the bike. The oil will never get up to proper operating temp & this will cause even more premature wear. I ride in 100 degree+ temps regularly, like most people do. If you use a QUALITY motorcycle oil like Redline or Lucas, you will have all the protection you need, as long as you change your oil according to your riding style. Both Redline & Lucas offer oil analysis, so you can get facts on your oil & the amount of protection from thermal breakdown. 70w is too thick to flow freely, even when it's 100+ degrees. If you want to stay in the good ol' days & rebuild your engine every 20-30 thousand miles, go ahead & run 70w. Hasn't it ever occured to you that companies like Redline & Lucas don't even offer 70w motorcycle oil? There is a reason for that.;)

Ironhead Red

[ezmerf]

If your bike isn't up to operating temp in 10 minutes something is wrong with it.

[ironhead red]

If your bike isn't up to operating temp in 10 minutes something is wrong with it.

Coming from a guy who ran CAR oil for 17 years. :laugh:laugh:laugh:laugh
How long do you think it takes for an Ironhead to get up to proper operating temp when it's, let's say 50 degrees outside?

Ironhead Red

[ezmerf]

I still run car oil VR1 50w.Do you know how long 10 minutes is?

[ironhead red]

How long do you suppose it will take after the engine gets up to proper operating temp, for the moisture to "boil" out of the engine & the oil?

Ironhead Red

[ezmerf]

Hey don't want to get in a pissig contest with you so this is something for the guy that started this thread.
Campsurf
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Having to break mine in real soon this is what I will do... first 100 miles is the most critical.. 80% of the process happens.. the next 20%, up to 500 miles or so, maybe a bit longer.. everything starts to settle in for good at about 1000 miles... ironheads break in differently than evo motors.

I have been flying model airplanes since 1969 and the engines are no different than any other engine.. one thing I have learned is about putting a "load" on the engine.. an engine needs to be run up and down the spectrum of rpms.. it is recommended that 3-3500 rmps should be the max in short bursts for Old Sporty's. Temperature is important.. hot days aren't that good for sustained running... a cool morning or evening is ideal. One of the reasons for not going over say, 50 mph is that max rpms are reached .. on the highway... it's hard to "surge" the engine. A long break in with adequate cooling and oil changes should get you up to 30,000 miles before a new top end is needed.

I see compression at about 140-50 right now on my bike. I still need to check it a little more thoroughly. It was still running great at 95 lbs with very little difference between cylinders.

Model engines that are iron need lots of oil and to be run rich with a load.. during this process as the engine starts to run steady, I lean the engine for short bursts of a minute and then return it to a rich run.. the more modern engines using todays close tolerance technology need to be run at higher rpms for them to break in properly, a rich run can ruin the engine. Most are shorter in stroke. Typically an iron engine takes an hour or longer to break in and a modern engine is can break in and be run after about 10 minutes... I still have one engine that I used in 1970 made in Japan with an iron piston. The break in was long and slow, it took forever.. but the engine has lasted longer then any engine I have ever owned..

The FM is pretty good with it's advice.. the other thing is if your bike was put back together right there should be no problems .. the only time I have ever had problems was when I tried to cut corners and save a buck..

Here is from Dragon’s Tech Tips.... except for the oil he mentions, I think this is pretty straight forward advice. The pushrods on an ironhead are adjusted cold.. I use straight GTX 20w/50 or Valvoline 50w... change the filter too when you do your first oil change at 100 miles.

Proper Break-in and Assembly

When you receive your parts back, make sure you properly clean everything and know how to assemble it. If not, give us a call and we’ll help you out. Make sure all your parts to be assembled are lubricated with oil. Before starting your motor, take an oil gun and shoot oil into the inlet spigot of your oil pump; while a friend of yours is turning it over. When oil flows through the outlet spigot, the motor is primed and ready to start. After running your motor from 5 to 8 minutes, shut it off and tighten all the bolts; especially head and barrel bolts, because all the gaskets compress when heated up. Always use straight weight air cooled motor oil. I recommend Penzoil air-craft oil wintertime = 50 weight. Spring and fall = 60 weight. Summer 70 weight (for shovel, pan & early shovel) EVO highest oil weight is 60 - summer straight weight only.

When breaking in a new motor, make sure your ignition timing is right on factory specs, not advanced or retarded. It is always better to have your carburetor a little richer than normal because that keeps the motor cooler. The first 100 miles is critical!! After 100 miles, change the oil, tighten all the bolts and readjust your pushrods.
Always adjust your pushrods when the motor is warm. Adjust them with n~ up and down play - only a slight drag when you turn them. This will eliminate all ticking sounds.

Do not let your motor idle for a long time, it will overheat and score the pistons. Ride no faster than 55 mph or 3500 rpm’s for the first 500 miles.

Improper Break-In
Scored up pistons, can be caused from:
1. An overheated motor due to running it hard
2. The timing of the motor was off
3. The fuel mixture was too lean
4. An air leak coming through the manifold 0-rings
5. No oil or oil lines hooked up wrong
6. Intake pushrods were too tight, keeping the intake valve slightly open

If you follow Dragon’s Tech Tips on proper break-in and assembly, you’ll have a great long lasting running motor.

Thanks,
Mel

And from S&S;

On initial engine startup, don't just sit and idle the motor while you admire your work or tinker with minor adjustments. Heat buildup at this point can be excessive.
The first 50 miles are the most critical for new rings and piston break-in. Most engine damage will initially occur during this period. Remember that if proper ring seating does not take place, the resultant blow-by will set the stage for possible future damage because there won't be sufficient oil on the cylinder walls for proper lubrication. So keep the heat down by not exceeding 2500 rpm. And vary the speed.
The next 500 miles should be spent running the engine no faster than 3500 rpm or about 50-55 mph. Do not lug the engine and continue to vary the speed.
Up to 1000 miles, the speed can be run up to 60 to 70. Continue to run the engine at different speeds including the lower 4~5 mph ranges. When the 1000 mile mark is reached, most Evolution engines should be broken in. Evolution engines tend to run slightly cooler; and therefore do not require as long a break-in period as earlier engines using iron cylinders.
From 1000 to 2000 miles basically use the same procedures as before, but you can be a little more liberal with the rpm range. Avoid overheating the engine and putting any hard strain on it (drag racing, trailer towing, sidecar operation).
2000 miles and up, have fun! Just remember, while our recommendations sound good and normally work, there is no cook book formula for proper engine break-in. Common sense and knowing what is really happening inside those cylinders are the best tools for break-in. We at S&S realize that after riding a stocker, a Sidewinder or Stroker feels very strong and the temptation to "turn it on" is overwhelming, even hard to resist. If this urge to run the engine hard overcomes you before engine break-in is completed, extensive engine damage can result. The obvious way to help prevent sticking the pistons is to give them a loose fit which naturally will detract somewhat from piston life and quiet running. This may be the best route to follow for those riders who want to go fast immediately. Keep in mind though, even loosely fit pistons should be allowed at least 50 to 100 miles of break-in for ring seating purposes. And, pistons and rings fit in this manner will have to be changed more frequently.



and I like some of this guys ideas too, though I found them to be more about modern engines and not old iron, still very interesting.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm


Jim