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Sleevedfreak
13th July 2005, 18:45
Ok..Here goes... I have a 73 Xlch..that i added the electric start to.. I am sure some of you have read my past post about the problems I am haveing with it..Well They wont go away..

Heres what I am getting... CLICK CLICK when I press the start button
So I checked all the wires and voltage..The relay is good and the selenoid is working properly.

When I attach the cable to the starter I only get about .08 volts at the starter..disconnect the cable and have the 11 to 12.6 volts that are suposed to be there.. Checked all the grounds and they are good...

Tore apart the starter had a ground on the field coil rubbing the armature, fixed that and still the same problem...

Any Ideas..???? Field coil bad because of the short???

I am hopeing to borrow a starter from my buddy and try his...he has the same bike..but man am I going crazy........... :yikes

AOW
19th July 2005, 17:58
:wonderlan :banana :tour :doh :roflblack :smoke :clap

AZbiker
19th July 2005, 18:05
12.6 is the bare minimum that should be there. Make sure that your battery has a fresh charge, or replace with a known good battery. If it was me, I would hook up my car battery either in parallel, or in place of, the bike battery. A bigass car battery will turn over a bike no problem. IMHO, a battery with a good fresh charge should be around 13.2 volts.

Good luck!

Sleevedfreak
19th July 2005, 18:42
Hey AZ,

Thanks for the reply...The battery is fresh and turns over my buddys 73 sporty...so it should work on my 73...He gave me his starter today so I can eliminate that piece of the puzzle... When I get back on my feet I will give it a shot. I dont want to mess with that kind of suff right now,,,, being on the drugs the doc put me on for my back.

Fisherman
19th July 2005, 22:43
What I would do is pull my starter out & hook it up to a car battery on the bench & 'hot wire' it to test it's operation. How freely does it turn by hand? It sounds like it's bound up. If it is, your voltage will show a major drop when trying to energize it. On the bench, you can see how freely it spins. Don't hot wire the sonenoid, just the starter first. If it spins freely, then hot wire the solenoid next.

Sleevedfreak
20th July 2005, 01:22
Had the starter apart,,,it spins great not bound up...one of the leads to the field coils is hard like a rock...the rest of the leads are nice and soft..I am starting to think I fried on of the field coils....

I am going to try, if my back feels ok, to use the starter my friend let me use.. 2 morrow....I will have a better Idea of Isolateing the problem from there

Fisherman
20th July 2005, 03:16
sounds like one of the field's is shorted. It looks like you have it figured out, alright...

Sleevedfreak
20th July 2005, 05:22
I am hopeing so...this has been a pain in my backside....I will try the other starter 2morrow....

Sleevedfreak
20th July 2005, 18:32
:censor Tried the borrowed starter...no luck...same results..This is all pointing at a bad ground...in my mind any suggestions???

Fisherman
20th July 2005, 20:22
Did you bench test the starter to verify solenoid operation? Then you could run a seperate ground wire to the starter itself. However, Are you sure that the battery doesn't have a bad cell? It would read 12 volts, no load but would lose all voltage when loaded up. Most auto parts stores will load test for free. Sorry, I missed that you had verified the battery. The next thing would be to jump out the starter relay. What happens when you jump straight from the battery + to the starter? If it spins the starter then it's in the solenoid or solenoid to starter connection.

Fisherman
20th July 2005, 20:37
I might also suggest you loosen the connection from the solenoid to the starter & then hit the starter button & see if the solenoid throws the starter bendix out to the clutch basket. You'll know if it does by the thunk.

79iron
20th July 2005, 23:10
hey, try running a ground to the mounts on your relay. when i put my 79 together i had the same problem. the relay was mounted on the bottom of the oil tank, and it's rubber mounted. try it out, hopefully this is your problem.

Sleevedfreak
21st July 2005, 02:05
Ya, I am leaning to the connection from the starter to seleniond..or a bad ground for these facts...

New tested starter button.
New Tested, charged battery
Relay is new and checked out fine.
Starter bench tested good.
Starter selenoid checked out fine.

So there is nothing else in the system..but that...

If not I will be going :banana :banarock

Fisherman
24th July 2005, 00:24
I just thought of something. You say it just clicks. The way these work is that when the solenoid is energized it pulls the forks that throw the bendix into the clutch ring gear. When the sleeve that moves in the solenoid moves far enough to engage the bendix & the ring gear it also closes the contacts that energize the starter motor. IF the bendix doesn't move far enough then the starter won't be energized. Could the click you're hearing be the bendix hitting the clutch rather than moving to engage the ring gear? Try loosening the starter enough so you can slide it back about an inch then hit the starter button for just a second. You don't want to put any strain on it as the bendix might spin on the teeth. You jusy want to 'bump' the starter.

Sleevedfreak
24th July 2005, 04:12
I just thought of something. You say it just clicks. The way these work is that when the solenoid is energized it pulls the forks that throw the bendix into the clutch ring gear. When the sleeve that moves in the solenoid moves far enough to engage the bendix & the ring gear it also closes the contacts that energize the starter motor. IF the bendix doesn't move far enough then the starter won't be energized. Could the click you're hearing be the bendix hitting the clutch rather than moving to engage the ring gear? Try loosening the starter enough so you can slide it back about an inch then hit the starter button for just a second. You don't want to put any strain on it as the bendix might spin on the teeth. You jusy want to 'bump' the starter.

I think you might be on the right track. I was reading that I will still get voltage thru the solenoid, but the contacts might not be closed fully. I pulled apart an old Selenoid just to see how that happens, and the way it is wired I see it is possible. Under your advice, to check the fork...I pulled the selenoid out and tried to engage the gear by hand..it was tight the first time and didnt seem to want to go..now it moves pretty freely. I am not sure what it could have been binding on. I have the starter out now too so I checked the other side of the gears and they spun easy by hand.

I ran out of time so It is there untill next time... I will try to do the starter trick when I get everything back together.. Thanks again...

All the advice is great and I hope it helps me get this gremlin

Sleevedfreak
24th July 2005, 04:15
hey, try running a ground to the mounts on your relay. when i put my 79 together i had the same problem. the relay was mounted on the bottom of the oil tank, and it's rubber mounted. try it out, hopefully this is your problem.

I did just that not to long ago...I ran grounds from the starter, from the battery tray(becase that is where the relay is mounted) to the frame...It didnt work..... but thanks for the tip..and at least I know I have good ground.

Sleevedfreak
25th July 2005, 03:43
looks like it is time to dissasemble the assy to see what is binding on the inside...DAMN I want to ride

74chopster
12th October 2005, 09:23
i had that problem with mine and found it to be the solenoid i put a new one on but it was the same as before so i remembered i put a new starter engagement arm on it to and found that the arm needed to be tweeked down torward the the soleneoid boot more so it could contact the washer in the solenoid to the terminals to engage the starter and it worked like a charm so allways expect the unexpected