Replacing Fork Springs and Fork Oil 'How-To'
Here is the "How-To" I wrote for changing the fork springs and fork oil:
Be advised, if you are changing to the Progressive 'Lowering' fork springs, the procedure is different.
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REPLACING FORK SPRINGS & FORK OIL
Read the instructions included with your Progressive front fork spring kit !
To empty the forks: Remove the small drain screws near the bottom of each fork. When you remove these, a small amount of fork oil will squirt out. Have rags on the ground to catch all the oil.
Pump the front end of the bike up and down many times (full stroke) to remove the remaining oil. The majority of the oil will be removed when pumping the forks. When all oil is removed, re-install the drain screws. Clean all oil from the front brake disks, calipers, wheels and the floor.
Jack the bike up so there's no weight on the front wheel and forks.
Put a large thick towel over the fuel tank and remove the handlebars (with everything still attached) and set them carefully on the tank. This gets them out of the way for removing the fork caps.
Using a 1 3/8" socket, remove the fork caps … Be careful, as these caps are under slight pressure from the fork springs. A piece of electrical tape can be placed around the end caps to prevent scratching during removal and installation.
Once the fork caps are removed, remove the springs and pour in approx. 9oz of new fork oil per fork. Recommend Bel-Ray 15wt.
The correct oil level can be insured by now fully lowering the bike so the forks completely collapse (no wieght on the bike lift). With the springs still removed, measure the distance from the top of the fork tube down to the top of the oil level in the fork. This distance should be no less than 5 1/2". I set mine down to the 6" level. (I had to add another 1oz of oil to get the oil level to 6")
Raise the bike again so the front wheel is off the ground. Slide the new fork springs back in. The end of the springs will need to extend approx. 3/4" out of the fork tubes for preload. If the springs do not extend out of the fork tubes the required 3/4", a piece of PVC plastic tubing (spacer) will need to be cut and placed above the springs so as the spacer sticks out of the folk tube the required 3/4" distance. This PVC tubing should be included in the Progressive spring kit. If any PVC tubing is used as a spacer, then a large washer will be need to be placed on top of the spring (between the spring and the PCV tubing) on each fork. These washers should also be included in the kit.
Note: Be advised that since the fork cap will screw 3/4" into the fork, this will actually give a total of 1 1/2" spring preload with the spacer sticking out of the fork 3/4" prior to fork cap install.
Note: Since my bike is an 04 1200R, it required a 3" PVC spacer. Different year bikes may require a different length spacer.
Note: PCV pipe can be purchased from Lowes, Home Depot, etc. The correct width PCV pipe you will use is 3/4".
Re-install the fork caps and handlebars.
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Note: The required 1 3/8" socket is not available for your 1/2" drive ratchet ... it's only avail for a 3/4" drive ratchet, so use these parts shown below in order to use your 1/2" drive ratchet or breaker bar:
1 3/8" socket - 3/4" drive
3/4" drive to 1/2" drive adapter
Note: By Gazza
Huggers and possibly Lows require more fork oil, check with your service manual.
Last edited by Moved On; 19th November 2006 at 19:47..
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