Everyone Should Read This ... (correct assembly and break-in)

[bitpusher]

Originally Posted by Toadz

I also believe that this is something everyone should read: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

It's how I break in my engines and I can honestly say I notice a huge difference in performance and reliability.

I noticed first hand and with my own 4 eyes the difference.


This guy seems like he might be on to something

Originally Posted by bitpusher

+1 to the builders disagreeing with toadz with eloquence and data.

sorry toadz, you are just wrong.

hammering (your own) metal that just met with heat and pressure is just foolish.

to advise others to do so is mean and foolish.

That guy got to second guessing himself and fell for that mototune bullshit.

the autopsy following a mototune fast&hard street breakin is here

[DonWoh]

404 Not Found, on OP Link, bummer and I wanted to see it.

[Krmilo]

How about here:

http://www.axtellsales.com/files/PDF.../Ring-Seal.pdf

[DonChicago48]

Way back in 1970, I worked at a racing engine builder called Motor Sport Research. We developed a cylinder honing technique for small-block Chevies that involoved using a deck-plate with torqued head bolts and maintaining block at elevated temperatures. It helped reduce taper and out of round conditions that affected ring seal at high RPM. The Sunnen Honing machine was excellent at controlling cylinder dimensions within specs. It was also very accurate at producing fine micro-inch finishes.
We experimented with a variety of piston rings, including Dykes style rings and head-land rings. Some had moly-filled sealing faces. We did a lot of work on break-in techniques because race engines didn't spend much time being babied. I even recall one tech who tried using Bon Ami, a form of fine scouring powder, to help seat rings (unsuccessfully).
I bet temperature control during break-in is even more important on air-cooled V-twin engines than on liquid-colled engines.

[John Harper]

Bon Ami was used on the early short block/OHV V8's, poured down the carb to rough up the cylinder walls and reduce oil consumption. That's what I have always heard.

John

[bitpusher]

wow. did i really say that? (see above)....

i am not going to throw any more punches in this holy war because i have already proven how little i knew (know) but my top ends are now broken in within an hour (not counting time in front of the fan between flights around the block) using quikseat by totalseal and the one thing i don't have problems with is ring seal or ring/piston/cylinderwall damage. last 4 builds have come apart looking almost as good as they did going together (top end, anyway).

that's just me. i am lucky to have a bunch of parts and i ain't afraid to break em trying things so make sure you take anything i say with a grain of salt.

i am absolutely not saying that there is anything wrong with the more common lughtly lubed, slow and easy break in, especially when the vendor you just paid big bucks to suggests it. they are who you should listen to if you want warrantee and support, but it's not the only way to skin that cat. if i knew then what i think i know now i would have just kept my mouth shut. wait, we all know that's not true, right?