The Sportster and Buell Motorcycle Forum Motor Stage  

Go Back   The Sportster and Buell Motorcycle Forum > SPORTSTER MOTORCYCLE ZONE > Sportster Motorcycle Motor / Engine > Sportster Motorcycle Motor - Top End
XLF Gallery XLF Classifieds XLF Blogs XLF Shout XLF Arcade XLF Disclaimer/Privacy Statement/Terms Of Use

Sportster Motorcycle Motor - Top End Discuss Sportster Motorcycle Top End issues. Rockerboxes, Valves, Cylinders, Pistons, Rings, Lift Rods, etc...

Members Birthdays
Lowbrow Customs
Motor Stage
Get Lowered
Bison Motorsports

Biltwell
Reply
 
Share Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 25th June 2006
Turbota's Avatar
Turbota Turbota is offline
Senior Master Custom Bike Builder
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Philippines
Posts: 5,259
Reputation: 5312
Turbota is just really niceTurbota is just really niceTurbota is just really niceTurbota is just really niceTurbota is just really niceTurbota is just really niceTurbota is just really niceTurbota is just really niceTurbota is just really niceTurbota is just really niceTurbota is just really nice
Default Setting Adjustable Pushrods "How-To"

Setting Adjustable Pushrods on 04-06 Engines:

You may never need adjustable pushrods with something as simple as a .020” head milling or a cam change …. Be aware that the [total] internal plunger travel in the H-D hydraulic lifters is .200” (two hundred thousands) of an inch. That’s a lot!

Idealy, the correct lifter preload should center the lifter's internal plunger half-way in the lifter's internal bore. In this case, that would be .100” (one hundred thousands) of an inch lifter preload. So, you can see that the variations that result from mild head milling or installing a cam with a slight difference in base circle really won’t normally cause problems with the lifter preload since the available variation is so great.

However …. If you are still needing to install adjustable pushrods, here are the steps you will need to follow in order to set the correct length of your aftermarket adjustable pushrods without removing your pushrod tubes (they don’t make collapsable tubes for the 04-06 anyway). Getting these rods the correct length will insure you have the correct hydraulic lifter preload in your valvetrain:

Note: To adjust the adjustable pushrods the easy way, you will need to purchase a 12” capiler to properly adjust your pushrod length using this procedure. Harbor Frieght, etc sells a 12” digital caliper for $40. Non-digital (vernier) 12” calipers can be purchased for less than $30 from Enco and other internet companies.

Note: You will need to set the [exhaust] pushrods a different length than the [intake] pushrods since they need to be of different lenghts due to the geometry of these V-Twin engines. In fact, the stock H-D [exhaust] pushrods are exactly .054” longer than the stock [intake] pushrods.

1. The rocker boxes will need to be removed first in order to access the pushrods.

2. Remove both spark plugs and pull all the the stock pushrods out of the pushrod tubes.

3. Shorten one of your adjustable pushrods to it's shortest length and install it in the [exhaust] pushrod tube of the front cylinder.

4. Place tranny in 5th gear. Rotate the motor by pushing the bike forward and back so the pushrod is fully down. That will put the [exhaust] lifter of this front cylinder on the heal (base circle) of it's cam.

5. Install the lower rocker box and metal gasket on the front cylinder with just the 4 rocker arm bolts (just snug the bolts down so as the rocker box is in full contact with the head).

6. Check to see how much free play there is on the pushrod by wiggling the rocker arm up and down.

7. Remove this lower rocker box and pushrod again.

8. Lengthen the pushrod a little and install it again … Then re-install the lower rocker box with the 4 bolts.

9. Continue to do this until the pushrod is the correct length to achieve “zero lash”. There will be no up and down play in the pushrod, but the valve spring will not be compressing at all by this pushrod. The pushrod will be still able to be turned with your fingers …. It is now at “zero lash”.

Now all the hard work is done!

10. Remove this [exhaust] pushrod again and lengthen it the correct amount with the adjuster nut.

Note: There are 2 methods to lengthen the pushrod the correct amount that will give the correct lifter preload.

Method 1: Follow the instructions supplied with your adjustable pushrods. The instructions will usually tell you to lengthen the pushrod between 3 to 4 turns from it's zero lash length. This will give the lifter it's proper .100” (one hundred thousands) preload when this pushrod and is finally installed.

Method 2: Measure the pushrod that has been now set to achieve zero lash with your calipers. Now lengthen the rod exactly .100” (remember we said this is the desirable preload).

11. Make sure that the pushrods adjuster nuts on this pushrod are now tight per spec.

We now have a baseline to set the other 3 pushrods.

12. Now measure this front cylinder’s [exhaust] pushrod's actual length with a caliper and set the length of the rear cylinder’s [exhaust] pushrod exactly the same. Tighten it’s adjuster nuts.

Now we have the correct length on both the front and rear cylinder’s [exhaust] pushrods.

Note: Make sure you mark these 2 pushrods so they do not get mixed up.

13. Refer to the measurements you made on the exhaust pushrods. Using a caliper again, set the length the the 2 [intake] pushrods exactly .054” shorter than the [exhaust] pushrods. Tighten there adjuster nuts to spec.

14. Now install all pushrods, gaskets and rocker boxes per the Service manual … Job Done!
__________________
[COLOR="PaleTurquoise"].[/COLOR]
[B][COLOR=DarkRed]04 XL 1222R:[/COLOR][/B] [url]http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p158/Turbo6ta/SideView-Large.jpg[/url]

NRHS Stage 2 Heads / NRHS 10.5-1 Thunderstorm Pistons / Zipper's 567 Cams / Mikuni HSR42 Carb
RevTech Roller Rockers / Andrews Adj. Pushrods / RB Racing 2-1 Exhaust / Twin Tec TC88A Ignition

Last edited by Turbota; 25th June 2006 at 14:27..
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 6th July 2006
hdtech237's Avatar
hdtech237 hdtech237 is offline
Greasemonkey
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: woods
Posts: 113
Sportster/Buell Model: 883r
Sportster/Buell Year: 06'
Other Motorcycle Model: Triumph Daytona
Other Motorcycle Year: 1969
hdtech237 has disabled reputation
Default

Just wanted to mention that Zippers makes a collapsible pushrod tube set. Just like the big twins. THis would make it a little easier probably.
__________________
06' 883r, 88 inch, NRHS Stg. 3 heads, SE .575 cams, SE tappets, SE roller rockers, Zipper's Adj. pushrods, SE clutch, Race Tech Gold Valve Emulators& springs, Progressive 418's, Powdercoated Black stuff(wheels,tripletrees,headlamp ring,pulley,fork dust cap)
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 5th October 2006
lonerider1985's Avatar
lonerider1985 lonerider1985 is offline
Flat Track Racer
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 235
Sportster/Buell Model: sportster xlx61
Sportster/Buell Year: 1985
lonerider1985 has disabled reputation
Smile push rod adjustment for the iron head 1985

I Ve Use The Clymers Manual Is Thier Any Other Tips For Setting The Tapets On The Pushrods
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 27th October 2010
Ironwriter Ironwriter is offline
Biker
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 2
Sportster/Buell Model: sportster
Sportster/Buell Year: 1974
Reputation: 10
Ironwriter is an unknown quantity at this point
Default

After reading all the info on how to adjust ironhead pushrods, I figure there has to be an easier way. Basically all I did was center the timing mark for the front pushrods (since the piston is TDC ready to fire, both front valve springs are relaxed, both front valves closed) adjust both. Do the same for the rear two push rods, lineup the two circles in the timing hole, I have a 1974 XLCH, both rear valve springs in the relaxed mode and adjust them. Pretty easy ha? Works for me!
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 30th December 2011
robychopper's Avatar
robychopper robychopper is offline
Greasemonkey
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: SPAIN (costa del sol)
Posts: 114
Sportster/Buell Model: sportster
Sportster/Buell Year: 1991
Other Motorcycle Model: simson awo 250cc chopper
Other Motorcycle Year: 1956
Reputation: 2548
robychopper is a jewel in the roughrobychopper is a jewel in the roughrobychopper is a jewel in the roughrobychopper is a jewel in the roughrobychopper is a jewel in the roughrobychopper is a jewel in the roughrobychopper is a jewel in the roughrobychopper is a jewel in the roughrobychopper is a jewel in the roughrobychopper is a jewel in the roughrobychopper is a jewel in the rough
Default

I belive there is an easy way and werry cheap way to make this desirable preload of .100".
If we take apart the hidraulic pushrods and we put a small washer under the spring i belive we can achive the same thing like with the adjustble pushrods?????
Some one can tell me if they do this???
I belive this can worck and its realy easy to do, the 4 washers for the 4 lifters can be made on a lathe at the desirable preload of .100"
__________________
You can contact me here http://www.facebook.com/robychop
Reply With Quote
Know Thy Hog

  #6  
Old 30th December 2011
aswracing's Avatar
aswracing aswracing is offline
A Million Facts & Figures
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: The Center of the Sportster Performance Universe
Posts: 7,619
Sportster/Buell Model: XL883
Sportster/Buell Year: 2007
Sportster/Buell Model #2: Buell Cyclone
Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1999
Reputation: 243172
aswracing has a brilliant futureaswracing has a brilliant futureaswracing has a brilliant futureaswracing has a brilliant futureaswracing has a brilliant futureaswracing has a brilliant futureaswracing has a brilliant futureaswracing has a brilliant futureaswracing has a brilliant futureaswracing has a brilliant futureaswracing has a brilliant future
Default

The "preload" is how far down the plunger is pushed in the lifter body by the pushrod. So putting a washer under the plunger does not change the preload.

People sometimes put washers under the plunger, though, as a travel limiting measure. S&S sells the washers.

More info here.
__________________
Click Here to Contact Me

Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 30th December 2011
robychopper's Avatar
robychopper robychopper is offline
Greasemonkey
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: SPAIN (costa del sol)
Posts: 114
Sportster/Buell Model: sportster
Sportster/Buell Year: 1991
Other Motorcycle Model: simson awo 250cc chopper
Other Motorcycle Year: 1956
Reputation: 2548
robychopper is a jewel in the roughrobychopper is a jewel in the roughrobychopper is a jewel in the roughrobychopper is a jewel in the roughrobychopper is a jewel in the roughrobychopper is a jewel in the roughrobychopper is a jewel in the roughrobychopper is a jewel in the roughrobychopper is a jewel in the roughrobychopper is a jewel in the roughrobychopper is a jewel in the rough
Default

ok thanks.

then its not soo big diferends to have the adjusteble pushrods with hidraulic lifters...better u change to rigid lifters?????
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 30th December 2011
aswracing's Avatar
aswracing aswracing is offline
A Million Facts & Figures
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: The Center of the Sportster Performance Universe
Posts: 7,619
Sportster/Buell Model: XL883
Sportster/Buell Year: 2007
Sportster/Buell Model #2: Buell Cyclone
Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1999
Reputation: 243172
aswracing has a brilliant futureaswracing has a brilliant futureaswracing has a brilliant futureaswracing has a brilliant futureaswracing has a brilliant futureaswracing has a brilliant futureaswracing has a brilliant futureaswracing has a brilliant futureaswracing has a brilliant futureaswracing has a brilliant futureaswracing has a brilliant future
Default

I'm not a fan of adjustable pushrods with hydraulic lifters. I don't see the point. To me, it's a solution looking for a problem. Plus, adjustable pushrods are a PITA. And they're heavier at a given strength level. And not as reliable.

The only good reason for them, IMO, is when using a solid lifter, or a travel limited lifter like what you're talking about, with a washer under the plunger. Those types of lifters require a very precise setting of pushrod length to get the running clearance right.

But the whole idea of a hydraulic lifter is to self-adjust. Why in the world do you need an adjustable pushrod when your lifter is designed to self-adjust? It's never made any sense to me.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 30th December 2011
robychopper's Avatar
robychopper robychopper is offline
Greasemonkey
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: SPAIN (costa del sol)
Posts: 114
Sportster/Buell Model: sportster
Sportster/Buell Year: 1991
Other Motorcycle Model: simson awo 250cc chopper
Other Motorcycle Year: 1956
Reputation: 2548
robychopper is a jewel in the roughrobychopper is a jewel in the roughrobychopper is a jewel in the roughrobychopper is a jewel in the roughrobychopper is a jewel in the roughrobychopper is a jewel in the roughrobychopper is a jewel in the roughrobychopper is a jewel in the roughrobychopper is a jewel in the roughrobychopper is a jewel in the roughrobychopper is a jewel in the rough
Default

i have the same opinion like yours, now in this moment i have my sporster engine 91-883 all apart, and how the buget i have now is verry low, i was thinking to do something to get a bit more power, i have a dynojet kit istall on the carb thats perfect, posible i go fo skim the head a little polish the head of the pistons end combustion chamber....

this is the bike i build now.
here in this link more pictures
http://www.clubchopper.com/forums/al...p?albumid=1239
.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


Custom Search

All times are GMT +1. The time now is 18:03.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
XL Forum - Linson Media LLC