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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #11  
Old 11th June 2012
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randy3934 randy3934 is offline
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a frayed cable inside the sheath could cause this, normally some slipping would be noticed long before it does what yours is doing.
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  #12  
Old 11th June 2012
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Hdcrasher- why did you rule out the actuator? seems to me like it has to be there, or in the cable itself-

what happens when you overadjust the cable? still nothing?

but again- clutches are one of the easiest "big" projects one can do- its all mechanical, and its either broke or worn, or its not.

menaing- clutches have for me, so far LOL, always been obvious once primary is off and clutches pulled.
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  #13  
Old 11th June 2012
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Vermonter stated that the clutch feels like it has the same resistance. I have to assume the clutch was working when the bike was put in first gear, but failed when engaged for second gear.
The big question of course is the cause of failure. My foolish bet on a race I can't see and am making a very subjective diagnosis on, is junk obstructing the outer drive plate or the release plate.

This is half the fun on a forum,Trappnman. You have to mix experience, logic, insight and the ability to picture the bike and it's sub-sectoins running AND broken. Throw in missing information, customizations and failing ancillary parts. Top all of that with nebulous descriptions due to the owners lack of knowing the nomenclature or how a motorcycle functions. That's the fun part.

The easiest problems are the electrical. Those are cut and dried . It either"Works/Doesn't Work.
Next in line are "My bike won't start". In theory these should be easiest but the owner fiddles with settings, installs new parts wrong or looks at A when B is the real problem.
The hardest are rideability issues, You have to be there riding the bike to diagnose these. That's why the answers are a shotgun approach. Try this, or this or this. It's the best we can do under less than perfect circumstances.

Where we talking about an actuator or something?
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  #14  
Old 11th June 2012
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ah- I missed that -

I have to assume the clutch was working when the bike was put in first gear, but failed when engaged for second gear.

I wasn't disputing your thought, just wondering what led you to eliminate the actuator

We'd make a good team- I HATE electrical, would far prefer to fix mechanical
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  #15  
Old 11th June 2012
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No big deal, you asked a reasonable question.

I'd love to be there when Vermonter pulls the primary cover. Little bit curious about this one.

Yea, We can team up. As long as you do the "Bike doesn't feel "right" at 60 mph, what's wrong", questions.
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  #16  
Old 12th June 2012
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I got mybike home tonight, I'll be opening the primary tomorrow, I'll take plenty of pictures, I myself am very curious as to what went wrong.

To give everyone the full information, my clutch lever and cable are two weeks old, the day before this happened I changed the primary oil to Valvoline 20/50 motorcycle oil (with superior wet clutch protection). And adjusted my primary chain tension. I put it all together and adjusted the clutch as per the manuals suggestion. I rode the seven miles to work without a problem. As I was leaving work I pulled out of my parking space no problem, I shifted into second and the clutch was slipping so bad it was like i didn't let the lever out. I did a road side clutch adjustment, started it, put it in first and had the same result, slipping so bad i may as well have Neenah in neutral.

Like I said, I'm going to be getting into it tomorrow, and will be taking pictures.
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  #17  
Old 12th June 2012
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Ah that helps, slipping rather than no clutch engagement. let us know more info tomorrow.
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  #18  
Old 12th June 2012
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Opened my clutch today and found two issues. My ball and ramp assembly was hanging up on my clutch cover so I wasn't getting a straight in and out push. I also found that my clutch springs where 3/8" too short. So I think a little cover grinding is in order and new springs as well.

I'll post pictures when I get to work.
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  #19  
Old 12th June 2012
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ok, here are some pictures
Inside of my clutch cover

My primary

These next two show where the actuator was rubbing just on the right of where it sits.
Am I right in thinking I can just file it down a bit until the rap clears it?


my home made clutch compression tool

My springs that were 3/8" too short.

my clutch pack. a little toasty from the slipage it was having

a fiber plate, doesn't look bad, but I went ahead and upgraded to kevlar fiber plates. I was thinking it couldn't hurt, and might deal with my 1200cc stroker and R5 cams better.



Im thinking the main problem I was having was the springs just where not putting enough pressure on my clutch to get it to grip, and I am sure that the ramp not going straight in and out wasn't helping.

While I was looking at the parts book I noticed that there is company making a single high tension spring that is supposed to replace the two springs my clutch has. Does anyone have any experience with that? is it better then two OEM springs or is it just the same, only in one spring?

I also had someone say that I should rough up my steel plates a little with steel wool, or fine grit sand paper so they put more friction on the fiber plates. Is that a good or bad idea? Thanks in advance.
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  #20  
Old 13th June 2012
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the barnett clutches I put in came with a single spring, and it is a steady dependable clutch.
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