Rubbermount_EVO Planning a rebuild this winter

[morvenhouse]

I have a few issues with my 2004 XL1200R and plan to iron them all out with a comprehensive rebuild in the coming winter. Frame needs powder coating, jiffy stand bushes are worn and mounting corroded, starter clutch needs replacing, tyres need replacing, I want to polish the fork stanchions and the triple tree, fork seals could do with changing, will need new rear pads by then, front brake lines got a caution at the annual test so need replacing etc. etc.

As I spent most of last years summer running season sorting out various problems one by one, had the exhaust off three times, spending a small fortune on gaskets in the process it seems sensible to do it all in one hit, particularly as I have decided I want to keep it. Yes I know as soon as it is back together I will buy a new one, but that is my problem.

So I have read the rebuild stories, seen pictures of many owners garages that would put my Indy to shame, but do not really have much idea of the true magnitude of the task. I am an experienced wrencher but not on Sportsters. How long does it take (hours) to get to a bare frame and would you suggest I remove the obvious major sub-assemblies (triple tree and forks, engine, etc.) so I have reference points on which to focus my work or go for a total tear down? I plan to replace all wear parts during the rebuild (rubber mounts, head bearings, swinging arm bearings, rebuild callipers any corroded/worn bolts etc.) is there anything else which should get my attention whilst it is disassembled? I do not plan to touch the engine, except for a new starter motor or clutch. Whilst on that subject any opinion on either replacing the starter clutch with a HD replacement part, an All Balls clutch, or All Balls or Twin Power replacement starter motor?

Any advice greatly appreciated.

[lynched1]

I would suggest some tackle boxes to store nuts and bolts. Use some tape or drop in pieces of paper to label the bins / compartments.
I'm in the middle of restoring my 72 Torino and I found that piece of advice to be priceless.

[xlron]

If your'e powder coating the frame? You must tear down "all the way". about 4 hours, and lots of blue painters tape & a sharpie to i>d everything thats comes off. no biggie. Then tape off the bearing houseings everywhere before taking to the powdercoater. And if you don't have the manual, get it, cause you will forget something along the way. Have fun bo.

[Collinspc]

Originally Posted by xlron

If your'e powder coating the frame? You must tear down "all the way". about 4 hours, and lots of blue painters tape & a sharpie to i>d everything thats comes off. no biggie. Then tape off the bearing houseings everywhere before taking to the powdercoater. And if you don't have the manual, get it, cause you will forget something along the way. Have fun bo.

Let the coater tape or plug everything. Mark what needs to be covered or protected and the coater will use heat resistant tape, plugs or covers. Cost of masking is usually included unless it is a big masking job.

[Bob F]

I would suggest some tackle boxes to store nuts and bolts.

I put all the fasteners back in the parts where they belong.

I tape my parts with masking tape, take photos and give my power coater detailed written instructions and he does a perfect job not coating what I don't want coated.

[morvenhouse]

Thanks Guys, really useful info. When powder coating the frame do I mask off the VIN number plate and other HD markings which identify the bike? The areas around the various markings are in A1 condition so it would not impact on the overall appearance of the finished job.