Ironhead 71 xlch. Adjusted clutch ... need some reassurance

[antsap]

Ok,

So I think I've had my clutch mis-adjusted pretty much for the last 8 years .

She's a 71 xlch.

I was convinced you should be able to push the bike around (off), in any gear with the clutch pulled in. I've been riding the snot out of it this season, and think its slipping a bit in 4th, and less noticeably in the other gears (though enough that its sapping some power).

I went ahead and followed piniongears sticky to the T tonight, and am looking really forward to taking her to work tomorrow morning and trying it out.

Just looking for a little reassurance I guess ... clutch pulled in, bike off, its hard to push around. I can hear the pistons moving at first, then it sort of gives way though still a bit hard in 1st.

This is normal right? And I should expect a little creeping in 1st with the clutch in and bike running unless I'm on the brakes? And the easy as snot shifting its been doing will probably bit a bit trickier now too (and that's ok/expected).


thanks for the help guys. I'll definitely let you know how the ride goes tomorrow.

[carbineken]

I can only speak of my own experience. I followed piniongears procedure and have no complaints. I feel a tiny bit of creep with bike running, in gear, clutch in,but its not so much that I need the brakes to hold it still. It is harder to push in gear, bike off, clutch in, but not impossible. And it shifts through all gears smoothly. I'd say you've got the adjustment pretty close. Good enough to run with anyway.

[antsap]

Thanks carbineken.

The ride to work was mixed ... it definitely feels more solid in gear, and shifting was not much a problem (though finding neutral from 1st while stopped was tricky sometimes).

There's definitely a little drag felt when shifting from 1st up to second as well ... you can feel the bike sort of thunk out of 1st and free up.

The creep is pretty bad in 1st in gear and stopped, I definitely didn't like that part. The idle drops down, and it has an slooow impact wrench feeling as the bike burps forward very slightly. I'm thinking of turning the adjuster screw in a 1/4 turn and seeing if that gets things a litter better.

Guys, let me know if I'm over analyzing this and should just get used to the new feeling.

thanks!

[piniongear]

Originally Posted by antsap

Thanks carbineken.

The ride to work was mixed ... it definitely feels more solid in gear, and shifting was not much a problem (though finding neutral from 1st while stopped was tricky sometimes).

There's definitely a little drag felt when shifting from 1st up to second as well ... you can feel the bike sort of thunk out of 1st and free up.

The creep is pretty bad in 1st in gear and stopped, I definitely didn't like that part. The idle drops down, and it has an slooow impact wrench feeling as the bike burps forward very slightly. I'm thinking of turning the adjuster screw in a 1/4 turn and seeing if that gets things a litter better.

Guys, let me know if I'm over analyzing this and should just get used to the new feeling.

thanks!

I would urge you to use caution regarding 'turning the screw in another quarter turn'.
This is what a lot of people do and then they have a mis-adjusted clutch.

An even more common mistake is some turn the adjuster sleeve on the primary cover out to reduce slack at the lever.
Hey, that is how you do it on a Honda so why won't it work the same on a Sportster?
This is a huge NO-NO.

If you adjusted your clutch following the procedure then that is as good as you are going to get it adjusted.

The 1971 and newer machine uses a wet clutch.
The oil coating the steel and fiber clutch plates is what makes the clutch drag. This is also the reason the Sportster goes CLUNK! when you put it in first gear compared to a Honda that goes click when you drop it into gear.

As for the clutch dragging at a red light.....yes, that is the way a Sportster is.
What you can do is learn to anticipate a long red light coming up as you ride and teach yourself to put the bike in neutral while the machine is still rolling.
This is easy to do and the bike with shift into neutral easily as long as it is rolling.

When the red light changes, you push down into first with the loud clunk and off you go.
I always put any bike I ride into neutral while I am still rolling when I have to stop for longer than a stop sign.
It is easier on the clutch as well.
pg

[antsap]

Thanks pg, your response is very much appreciated.

I almost always shift to neutral rolling up to a stop as well. I guess I need to just get used to the new feel and get over thinking something is "wrong".

The plus side is, she definitely rode much better in gear, and I may be fabricating this ... but it started easier as well (maybe my previous not fully engaged adjustment was taking some of the engine spin out of my kicks ...).

thanks for the great sticky!

[trappnman]

I can see new clutches haivng a bit of a drag when disengaged, and old clutches slipping in gear-

but a properly adjusted clutch shouldn't do either.

and once the clutches are warmed up a bit, you should be able to push it rather easily in any gear with the clutch pulled in.

its a fine line indeed between good enough and spot on, and when putting in new clutches, it can be impossible to eliminate that little drag, but as the clutches wear in a bit, re-adjustment should eliminate the drag.

An even more common mistake is some turn the adjuster sleeve on the primary cover out to reduce slack at the lever.
Hey, that is how you do it on a Honda so why won't it work the same on a Sportster?
This is a huge NO-NO.


I must be misunderstanding this, because based on your posts I read, you know sportys.

Isn't the above the way to remove slack at the lever, and is the way the manual instructs one to correctly set free play at the lever?

I don't know how you would adjust the clutches w/o also adjusting the hand lever tension by using the cable adjuster at the primary.

its not the way to set the clutches, but it is the only way to set the cable tension.

[piniongear]

Originally Posted by trappnman

An even more common mistake is some turn the adjuster sleeve on the primary cover out to reduce slack at the lever.
Hey, that is how you do it on a Honda so why won't it work the same on a Sportster?
This is a huge NO-NO.
I must be misunderstanding this, because based on your posts I read, you know sportys.
Isn't the above the way to remove slack at the lever, and is the way the manual instructs one to correctly set free play at the lever?

I don't know how you would adjust the clutches w/o also adjusting the hand lever tension by using the cable adjuster at the primary.

its not the way to set the clutches, but it is the only way to set the cable tension.

What you just stated is exactly what I was talking about. People mis-understand how a Sportster clutch is adjusted.

If you look at the write up I did on this you will see that in steps 3 and 4 you do adjust the cable adjuster.

In step 5 you tighten down the adjuster lock nut. I then say (in bold red print) that after this you do not touch the adjuster again. Not ever.....no way.

The final adjustment is done in steps 6 and 7.
This adjustment is what gives you the proper slack at the cable.

So your question I believe is this:
What do I do when the clutch has worn in slightly, and I now have excess slack in the cable?
The answer is DO NOT touch the cable adjuster.
The excess slack is removed by repeating steps #6 and 7.

I do not know how to make it any clearer than that.
Some people want to use the cable adjuster and you do not do that.
The result will be a clutch that is no longer in proper adjustment.
As far as your statement that the manual tells you to use the adjuster to remove slack I can only say you may be reading a Clymers Manual or one for an EVO Sportster.
In either case it is the wrong thing to do on an ironhead.
pg

[antsap]

I will probably pull the clutch in the near future and check out my steel plates. If I end up having to replace the plates and/or friction discs, do you guys have any suggestions?

thanks

[piniongear]

If/when you decide to replace the clutch plates I would get Barnett fiber plates myself.
The steel plates you get from a dealer.
As long as your steel plates are not blue and are flat (check by laying on a piece of glass) you will not need to replace the steels.
pg

[trappnman]

I didn't read your write up, but agree with what you stated in your post #7

the post I made, does not disagree with this overall, but the final lever adjustment, is made at the primary adjuster-

page 4-6 of my FSM states: (after clutch adjustment) "check cable play at clutch hand lever. Hand lever should have 1/8" free play. if incorrect, adjust sleve and locknut"

which is what I stated, and how I do it AFTER clutch is adjust correctly.

So your question I believe is this:
What do I do when the clutch has worn in slightly, and I now have excess slack in the cable?
The answer is DO NOT touch the cable adjuster.
The excess slack is removed by repeating steps #6 and 7.


no, did not mean that. Thats the trouble with the internet and having to write this stuff- hard to explain at times what you mean. I meant that after the clutch is adjusted, that the final adjustment is with the external adjustter.

I'm thinking of turning the adjuster screw in a 1/4 turn and seeing if that gets things a litter better.

ah, I missed that, so see how you thought I was responding to that, as correct procedure. No, am not doing that and agree with you that you MUSt readjust the clutch release point itself, not the cable. but then when done doing that, the cable tension might need to be re-adjusteed, and that needs to be done at the adjuster