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15th July 2012
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Biker
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 50 Sportster/Buell Model: XLH Sportster/Buell Year: 1977
Reputation: 10
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cam thrust washers
Took the cam cover off of my 77 xlh 1000 today and noticed as i did that only one of the cams had a thrust washer on it. i looked at my clymer manual and it showed all of them having this washer. someone was in the motor before ( has s&s flywheels and connecting rods) and i was wondering if anyone would know why they wouldnt be there or if anyone has seen something like this before.
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15th July 2012
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Master Custom Bike Builder
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Athens, GA
Posts: 3,171 Sportster/Buell Model: XLCH Sportster/Buell Year: 1962
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Shims or no shims is a contentious issue. The best advice I can offer is to educate yourself and then decide if you think you need/want them.
http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/s....php?t=1003853 |
15th July 2012
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Rider Of The Iron Steed
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: London, ON Canada
Posts: 23,750 Sportster/Buell Model: XLH Sportster/Buell Year: 1978
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No thrust washers, but there are cam gear plates [AKA dog bones, figure 8s] and cam shims. Presumably you mean the shims?
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15th July 2012
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Senior Bike Builder
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,996 Sportster/Buell Model: Custom Sputhe XR Sportster/Buell Year: 19** Sportster/Buell Model #2: XLCH Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1965
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Was it only the #2 cam w/ the points that was shimmed?
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15th July 2012
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Biker
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 50 Sportster/Buell Model: XLH Sportster/Buell Year: 1977
Reputation: 10
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yeah iron mick it was the cam shims between the bushings and the actual cam. i dont know if its aftermarket camed or not, but i cant find any marking on the cams. and yeahchevelle its the rear cylinder intake cam, the one that drives the points
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16th July 2012
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Rider Of The Iron Steed
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: London, ON Canada
Posts: 23,750 Sportster/Buell Model: XLH Sportster/Buell Year: 1978
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It could be that only the one cam needed to be shimmed. You can either toss all the shims or go thru the process and set them all up to between .015 and .020 [i think that is what we agreed on]. Most agree that the spec in the FSM should not be used.
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16th July 2012
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Chief Know It All
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: way up north
Posts: 449 Sportster/Buell Model: xlch Sportster/Buell Year: 1977 Sportster/Buell Model #2: xlch Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1973 Other Motorcycle Model: 2002 sporty heavy modded
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I set mine up right around .015 mark never herd an iron so quite,if you go tighter as the manual says it means check this every season...
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16th July 2012
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Senior Bike Builder
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,996 Sportster/Buell Model: Custom Sputhe XR Sportster/Buell Year: 19** Sportster/Buell Model #2: XLCH Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1965
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The #2 cam gets a seal, so it would be the most important to keep from walking I would assume.
Same goes for the ign rotor/advance unit bolted to that cam.
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16th July 2012
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Biker
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 50 Sportster/Buell Model: XLH Sportster/Buell Year: 1977
Reputation: 10
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Probably gonna toss them mick the noise doesn't bother me but I wanted to make sure it wasn't overly critical. Thanks for the continued help!
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17th July 2012
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Senior Master Custom Bike Builder
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Pottstown PA.
Posts: 5,142 Sportster/Buell Model: xlch Sportster/Buell Year: 1960
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i'm,kind of surprised you went back with them at .015,timberjack.didn't you find alot of them in your oil pump,after disassembly?
__________________
72 1000cc barrels and heads, s&s 41/2'' flywheels, sifton cams, s&s super B w/ zippers thunderjet w/yost powertube, andrews gears,and shafts, competition engineering kevlar wet or dry clutch, 72 oil pump, morris magneto w/auto advance and single fire module, cycle electric generator w/electronic regulator,73 cu.in.
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