Ironhead looky what I got today. hint: trans reinforcement related

[DR DICK]

Originally Posted by chevelle

he probably did not work on the case in the photo?

ha.
thats the 84"teardown pic.
that work is over 25yrs old.
my welding skills have improved much since then.

[sevenyears of famine]

I ended up starting the notch with a cut off wheel, then flattening out with a file.




snapped in place



a 'lil boring action from last night

boring reinforcement ring - YouTube

boring reinforcement ring - YouTube

It feels pretty good snapping in place, it has to go on perfectly straight or it won't go. Here's a quick vid to show the fitment. Usually takes a bit to get off but I musta pulled just right here:

reinforcement ring fitment 1960 sportster transmission - YouTube

reinforcement ring fitment 1960 sportster transmission - YouTube

So, Dr. Dick. My first question, does it need to be tighter? Seems pretty snug. Or are you recommending tight "press fit" and no welding?

[DirtyCory]

nice job man!!

[JBGoode]

Cool thread! One day I'll get to machining my own parts!

[brucstoudt]

look's good,7yrsof. are you going to weld,or screw in place?

[ezmerf]

With some the lotetite stuff out there today you may could do that.

[iNSaNeSHaNe]

LOOKS GOOD MAN if they fit real tight no prob. if very snug I'd clean both parts and then wipe the two mating surfaces with green permanent LocTite on another note when I did the blower cases I machined the inner and outer to an interference of .002 then put the case in my freezer for an hour when I took it out I heated the ring with my heat gun and dropped it right on and let it contract to the other case. good to see so many ppl involved in a great thread. let us know how it all works out I'm sure its better than before.

[barefoot]

Originally Posted by DR DICK

if its tite back in the lathe, using some sand paper(120 grit) 'polish' the id bigger intill it does just slip on.

This is absolutely right, I do it all the time, not a chance in heck that a beginner could take out two tenths so it's the only practical way BUT be aware that you can lose a finger doing this. Regular sandpaper is probably safe but if you use emery cloth with the reinforced backing, it's stronger than your finger and can catch in the part.

Just be aware that when you stick your finger into something turning 800 rpm, be careful !

[Hopper]

Great work!
Not being critical but you said you were figuring out lathes as you went along so I will offer you a tip for what it's worth.
Always keep overhang to a minimum, in order to reduce tool chatter and get a better finish.

This includes the way you set up your boring bar and the parting tool so the tool sticks out just far enough to do the job and that's all. IE pull the parting blade and boring bar back into their holders as far as you can. And pull the holder back as far into the toolpost clamp as you can. You get less flex and vibration that way.

Also, keep overhang of the job out of the chuck to a minimum too. Cut your stock down to size first, then start drilling, boring turning etc, up as close to the chuck as you can. Surprising amount of flex in a long thin cylinder when machining the far end without a tailstock centre holding it in place.

And kerosene or WD40 can make a good lube when boring or parting aluminum.

Have fun with your lathe! I have been playing with them for years and am still learning.

(And PS, +1 on be cautious about sticking a finger into a rotating hole. Ok on a shallow large diameter hole if carefull, but for deeper, smaller holes, use a piece of wooden dowel with emery paper wrapped around it. A slot cut in the end holds the paper firmer.)

[sevenyears of famine]

Thanks for the feedback guys. Bruce, I'm not sure yet but I'm leaning towards welding. Once it's done and closed up, I won't have to think about it or see it.

Thanks for the tips too Barefoot & Hopper. All good info. The only reason I've learned anything is because I have things that gotta be made -mostly aluminum spacers. It's forced me to dig up info and give it a shot. I really need to learn how to grind/sharpen my tools. I think I have a pdf of that southbend book, but I remember it being really long.

working with aluminum is forgiving, if it were steel I'd be burning up bits left and right

I'm thinking I could save a bundle if I whipped up my own loonynum trans gears