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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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drag pipes, ironhead, lollipops, magneto, xlch

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  #21  
Old 17th October 2012
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I think you need 2" pipes for the torque cones, do the XLR pipes come in 2"?
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  #22  
Old 17th October 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fdny37 View Post
I think you need 2" pipes for the torque cones, do the XLR pipes come in 2"?
Based on NRHS Tech Tips, maybe so
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  #23  
Old 17th October 2012
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Yes, J&P, dennis kirk, etc.
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  #24  
Old 17th October 2012
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hell yes i,have them in my,1-3/4''drag pipe's. because they were made for evo,exhaust.i,had to turn .040 off the o.d.,in a,lathe,to make them a,tight fit in the pipe's. i,have mine located,right below the exhaust spigot.
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  #25  
Old 18th October 2012
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Check this video out....
S&S drag pipe tuning
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  #26  
Old 18th October 2012
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Cut each end off a cheap 1 3/4" drag pipe baffle (if you are using 1.75" pipes) and spot weld or tack them into the mouth of the pipe. They will look pretty close to the shape of the "torque cones/ar cones" that you usually see advertised.............Davi
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  #27  
Old 18th October 2012
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Check out the middle baffle.........Davi.
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  #28  
Old 18th October 2012
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Chevelle,

I have a problem with the test done by S&S in the video on the baffles, I have run drages with baffles many times and have never had the problem that they showed here. The baffles they used they may as well have shoved a potato up the exhaust pipe as to have put those baffles in. I have run several different lengths of baffles and the best performance I have gotten was with the 8 inch in the style shown on the bottom of Daves pic.

There was a slight drop in power at around 24 to 2600 RPM but overall not much different than the same motor with stock mufflers or stock mufflers with a 1" hole drilled through them, certainly not the drop or just flat out choked out RPM that S&S shows.
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  #29  
Old 13th December 2012
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Default You can't have it both ways

Straights are designed to operate at from 4K to 6K and beyond depending on the cams. When ridden on the street, the bike falls flat on its face until you hit 4 grand and then it goes like hell. A stock sized bike at the drags is normally revved up to about 6K and when the last light comes on, you feed in the clutch. The engine never gets below 4 so it performs well. On the street you will enjoy the ride a lot better when you are having real decent power from 2K on through the power band. You will win more street races with a set of stock 65 baloney cuts than with straights and you'll spend a lot less time watching for cops. I don't know if anyone makes a real baloney cut clone and the real ones were hard to find 30 years ago, but looking through a real one has a concaved cup shape with generous holes in it, that's all. The 66 torpedo ones were much more restrictive. The best part is the cops will more than likely pay no attention to a set of baloney cuts but will write the straights up every time.
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  #30  
Old 13th December 2012
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drag pipe's.anti-reversion cone's at the head,lollipop's.no muffler's required. modified 8'' baffle's,optional.
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